Crossing the Rio-Antirio Bridge: From Mainland Greece to the Peloponese

The Rio – Antirio Bridge connects mainland Greece to the northwestern tip of the Peloponese. It is 2,380 meters long, and in addition to the benefits it offers to the users of Greece’s transportation network, it is beautiful to look at.

In my crossing I went from right to left (Antirio – Rio).

This post is a reproduction of a bridge crossing using phorographs I have taken from the inside of the vehicle while driving through.

Toll station. Price for a car is 13.50 Euros. View of the bridge is restricted.
Can see the bridge, but it is tiny from here.
Let the crossing begin!
Approaching the Peoponese coastline. The end.

Other bridge related posts:

  1. Do not jump off from the bridge
  2. Painting London’s Waterloo Bridge

Michalitsi, Tzoumerka, Greece – Μιχαλίτσι, Τζουμέρκα

Βολτάροντας στα Τζουμέρκα, πέρασα από ένα χωριό που το λένε Μιχαλίτσι.

Ήτανε πρωί, ο ήλιος έλαμπε, κι ο οργανισμός μου ζητούσε ένα ωραίο καφέ.

Μόλις φτάνω στην μικρή πλατεία παρκάρω, και βγαίνω.

Μιχαλίτσι, Κεντρική Πλατεία – Η εκκλησία του Αγίου Νικολάου. Φωτο: Νίκος Μορόπουλος

Το πρώτο που με εντυπωσίασε είναι ότι το καμπαναριό της εκκλησίας είναι στο κέντρο της πλατείας, και όχι δίπλα στην εκκλησία. Η εκκλησία του Αγίου Νικολάου χτίστηκε το 1870 από τους ντόπιους μάστορες. Το χωριό ήτανε ένα από τα μαστοροχώρια της Ηπείρου.

Μιχαλίτσι, Κεντρική Πλατεία -Το καμπαναριό. Φωτο: Νίκος Μορόπουλος

Το καμπαναριό στέκει μοναχό στη μέση της πλατείας, και είναι εντυπωσιακό.

Μιχαλίτσι, Κεντρική Πλατεία -Το Κρυφό Σχολείο. Φωτο: Νίκος Μορόπουλος

Δίπλα το καφενείο, ταβέρνα, ξενώνας “Το Κρυφό Σχολείο”. Πέτρινο, πεντακάθαρο, με μαυροπίνακα ενημερωμένο και με όλα τα καλά. Εκεί θα πιώ και τον καφέ μου. Παραγγέλνω τον καφέ και  ακολουθεί η στοχομυθία.

ΕΓΩ: “Έχετε ωραία εκκλησία εδώ.”

“Εκκλησία έχουμε, κόσμο δεν έχουμε.”

Μιχαλίτσι, Κεντρική Πλατεία -Καφεπαντοπωλείον Μιχαλιτσίου. Φωτο: Νίκος Μορόπουλος

Η λιτή απάντηση με χτύπησε κατακούτελα. Κοίταξα απέναντι, σε ένα ισκερό μέρος κάτω από τα δέντρα, καθόντουσαν μια παρέα από ηλικιωμένους άντρες και παίζανε χαρτιά. Όλοι ντυμένοι καλοκαιρινά αλλά με επιμέλεια, σιδερωμένο παντελόνι, πουκάμισο, παπούτσι και κάλτσα.

Το καφεπαντοπωλείον Μιχαλιτσίου παραδίπλα ενοικιάζεται. Απόλυτη ησυχία.

Μιχαλίτσι, Κεντρική Πλατεία -Ηρώον Μιχαλιτσίου. Φωτο: Νίκος Μορόπουλος

Δίπλα στους χαρτοπαίκτες το Ηρώο του χωριού, αφιερωμένο στους νεκρούς των πολέμων 1912 – 1922.

Μιχαλίτσι, Κεντρική Πλατεία -Προτομή Δημητρίου Γ. Κοσμά. Φωτο: Νίκος Μορόπουλος

Κοντά στο ηρώο βρίσκεται η προτομή του Δημητρίου Γ. Κοσμά, Δασκάλου, Ακροναυπλιώτη που εκτελέστηκε από τους Γερμανούς το Μάιο του 1944 στην Καισαριανή. Με αυτή την αφορμή διάβασα για τους Ακροναυπλιώτες. Ήτανε κομμουνιστές που φυλακίστηκαν από τον Μεταξά. Με την έναρξη του πολέμου το 1940 δεν αφέθηκαν ελεύθεροι, παρόλο που ζήτησαν να πάνε να πολεμήσουν.  Παραδόθηκαν στους Γερμανούς από την κατοχική Κυβέρνηση και το 1943 μεταφέρθηκαν στο Στρατόπεδο του Χαϊδαρίου,από όπου έκαναν το τελευταίο τους ταξίδι για την Καισαριανή.

Αργότερα έμαθα ότι το Μιχαλίτσι είναι δύο κοινότητες, μία βόρεια και μια νότια. Εγώ επισκέφθηκα τη νότια. Η απόσταση ανάμεσα στις δύο πλατείες είναι περίπου 3 χιλιόμετρα.

Τέλειωσα τον καφέ μου κι αποχώρησα.

Στο δρόμο σκεφτόμουνα πόσο διαφορετικό είναι το Μιχαλίτσι από τη Ροδαυγή.

Στη Ροδαυγή είχε κόσμο, είχα ανοιχτά μαγαζιά, είχε ζωή. Το Μιχαλίτσι ήτανε ήσυχο, μα πολύ ήσυχο. Ακόμη και οι χαρτοπαίζοντες δεν κάνανε θόρυβο.

Δείτε επίσης τα ακόλουθα άρθρα σχετικά με τα Τζουμέρκα:

Ροδαυγή

Μονή Χρυσοσπηλιώτισσας, Κάτω Γραικικό

 

 

 

 

 

 

The real agenda of co-operation between Qatar and Greece – Η αληθινη ατζεντα συνεργασιας μεταξυ Καταρ και Ελλαδος

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Σημερα ευρισκομαι εις την εθνικα υπερηφανη θεση να αποκαλυψω την πραγματικην ατζεντα συνεργασιας Καταρ – Ελλαδος, οπως αυτη συμφωνηθηκε στην προσφατη επισκεψη του Ελληνος Πρωθυπουργου εις το Καταρ. Παρευθυς αποκαλυπτω τους βασικους αξονες:

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1. Οικονομικες φυλακες, καταπολεμηση της φοροδιαφυγης, και περιστολη των δαπανων δια της καταργησεως ολων των ΔΟΥ. 

Σε καθε νομο της Ελλαδος θα κτισθουν (προκατασκευασμενες) οικονομικες φυλακες.

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Το Καταρ θα επενδυσει στα κτισματα αυτα και θα προσλαβει ολους τους απαιτουμενους υπαλληλους με μικτα 400 ΕΥΡΩ το μηνα, και πολλα τους ειναι.

Σε καθε νομο θα προσληφθουν τουλαχιστον 100 ατομα.

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Για την απλοποιηση των διαδικασιων, καθε μηνα θα γινεται κληρωση σε Πανελληνιο επιπεδο και θα αναδεικνυονται 100,000 “τυχεροι”, εκ των οποιων: 99,990 θα φυλακιζονται αυτοματως, ενω 10 θα ταξιδευουν στο Καταρ για τουρισμο. Εκαστος φυλακιζομενος θα πληρωνει 30 ΕΥΡΩ καθε μερα για την φιλοξενια του εις το συγκροτημα, το οποιο θα διαθετει παρεκκλησιο, ψησταρια και πισινα. Η φυλακιση ενος εκαστου θα διαρκει ενα μηνα ακριβως.  Οι φυλακισθεις θα εξαιρειται της κληρωσεως του επομενου μηνα, και για τους επομενους 11. Αρα αν ειναι τυχερος, θα μπει στην φυλάκα και παλι καποια στιγμη τον επομενο χρονο.

Jail

Καταργουνται οι φορολογικες δηλωσεις, οι εφοριες, και ολες οι σχετικες υπηρεσιες του Υπουργειου Οικονομικων.

Πας φυλακιζομενος ειναι εν δυναμει φοροφυγας, οποτε θα δημευεται τουλαχιστον το ημισυ της περιουσιας του. Αν θελει να προσφυγει στην Δικαιοσυνη, τον κακον του τον καιρον, καθοσον η Δικαιοσυνη δεν θα σχολειται με αυτες τις υποθεσεις. Κι ας παει στην Χαγη να βρει το δικηο του μετα απο 20 χρονια!!!!!

Al Capone

Εναλλακτικα, ο κατεχων φυλακιζομενος θα δυναται να καταβαλει 1 εκατομμυριο ΕΥΡΩ την ημερα και να μειωνει ή και να αποφευγει ολοκληρωτικα την εκτιση της ποινης. Στην περιπτωση αυτη, το Καταρ θα κατακρατει για λογους αποτελεσματικης διαχειρισης το 80% των εσοδων.

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Το μηνιαιο εσοδο για το Ελληνικο Δημοσιο απο την φυλακιση των εν δυναμει φοροφυγαδων θα ειναι 90,000 επι 30, ηγουν οτι 2,700,000 ΕΥΡΩ ανα νομο, οποτε κατα μεσο ορο πολλαπλασιαζοντες επι 50 θα εχομεν 135,000,000 ΕΥΡΩ μηνιαια εσοδα. Το ετησιον εσοδον του Κρατους θα ανερχεται εις 12 επι 13,500,000 ΕΥΡΩ, ηγουν οτι 1,620,000,000 ΕΥΡΩ.

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Το Καταρ θα λαμβανει ως κοστος και δικαιωματα  τα 1,000,000,000 ΕΥΡΩ, ενω θα εχει και δικαιωμα 50% επι καθε κατασχεσεως πραγματοποιειται επι της περιουσιας των φυλακιζομενων.

Κατα μεσον ορο εκτιμαται οτι τα ετησια εσοδα απο κατασχεσεις θα ειναι 100,000 εξοχικες και κυριες κατοικιες, εκ των οποιων οι 50,000 θα περιερχονται εις την δικαιοδοσιαν του Καταρ. Τα κατασχεζομενα μετρητα προς το παρον δεν εχουν εκτιμηθει. Και ουτε και χρειαζεται. Εξαλλου δεν υπαρχει ρευστοτης, οποτε γιατι να χανομε το χρονο μας;

Greece's PM George Papandreou welcomes Qatar's Emir Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al-Thani in Athens

2. Αξιοποιηση της γης

Ολα τα κατασχεθεντα εκ του Καταρ ακινητα θα ανταλλασοονται κατα την προτιμηση του Καταρ με οικοπεδα και ακινητα υπο τον ελεγχον του Ελληνικου Δημοσιου. Ηγουν οτι, ενα δυαρι στον Κορυδαλλο θα ανταλλασσεται με ενα δυαρι που εχει στην ιδιοκτησια του το Ελληνικο Δημοσιο στην Πλατεια Μαβιλη, ή ενα οικοπεδο, ή μια δασικη εκταση στην Χαλκιδικη. Με την ανταλλαγην, το Ελληνικον Δημοσιον θα γινεται ιδιοκτητης του δυαριου στον Κορυδαλλο, και το Καταρ θα εχει την ιδιοκτησια και δικαιωμα οιασδηποτε χρησης του οικοπεδου στην Χαλκιδικη. Δασικες εκτασεις περιλαμβανονται στο σχημα ανταλλαγων. Για καθε τετραγωνικο μετρο κατοικιας το Καταρ θα δικαιουται 10 στρεμματα δασικης εκτασεως οπου γουσταρει.

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Συμφωνα με το διεθνες Δικαιο, αν οι Ελληνες ειχαν το δικαιωμα να ξεσκισουν τις δασικες εκτασεις και να τις καταπατησουν δια μαιζονετας την παρελθουσαν δεκαετιαν, δια ποιον λογον δεν θα δυνανται να πραξουν το ιδιον και οι Καταριανοι;

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Και προειδοποιω τους εχοντες αντιρρηση: ειναι  καλυτερα δηλαδη να τα καιμε καθε καλοκαιρι; Με τον δικαιο αυτο τροπο τα παιρνουνε αυτα που θελουνε χωρις αποκαϊδια και καταστροφες. Και εχουνε και καποιοι ανθρωποι δουλεια.

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3. Αεροδρομια και μαρινες

Ολα τα περιφερειακα και επαρχιακα αεροδρομια και μαρινες της Ελαδος περιερχονται αυτοματως εις την ιδιοκτησιαν του Καταρ, το οποιον θα πρεπει εις ανταλλαγμα να προσλαβει 100 εντοπιους κατοικους εις συναφεις επιχειρησεις.

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Το Καταρ θα κανει ο,τι θελει στις εγκαταστασεις που θα αποκτησει, και θα αποζημιωνει το Ελληνικο Δημοσιο πληρωνοντας τους μισθους των απασχολουμενων εις αυτες. Ο βασικος μισθος (και μονος ως εκ τουτου) θα ανερχεται σε 300 ΕΥΡΩ μικτα, καθοσον ολο και κατι τις θα εχουσιν οι εργαζομενοι απο φιλοδωρηματα, κι αν δεν εχουν, κακο δικο τους. “Αντι να μας ευχαριστουν που τους δινομε εργασια, γινονται και αδηφαγοι;”, ελεγαν χαρακτηριστικα οι ανθρωποι του Σεϊχη.

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Αυτοματως ολα τα ξενοδοχειακα συγκροτηματα εις ακτινα 150 χιλιομετρων απο οιανδηποτε μαρινα και οιονδηποτε αεροδρομιο καθιστανται ιδιοκτησια του Καταρ, που δεν χρειαζετια να καταβαλει επιπροσθετο τιμημα στο Ελληνικο Δημοσιο, ή αποζημιωση στον ιδιοκτητη.

Ως μπονους, ο ιδιοκτητης απαλλασσεται της κληρωσεως δια φυλακισιν (βλεπε 1) δια περιοδον 2 μηνων.

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Το Καταρ μπορει να αποφασισει να κρατησει ενα ξενοδοχειο για εκμεταλλευση, ή να το πουλησει. Με τον τροπο αυτο θα κυκλοφορησει και χρημα, λογω των πολλαπλων συμβολαιογραφικων πραξεων, οπως επισης και των φορων μεταβιβασεως.

ΚΑΤΑΡ

3. Ποδοσφαιρικο πρωταθλημα

Ολα τα επαγγελματικα πρωταθληματα περιερχονται εις το Καταρ, οπως επισης και ολες οι ποδοσφαιρικες ομαδες.

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Οποιος διαφωνει να παει να ζησει αλλου.

Η Εθνικη Ελλαδος καθισταται Εθνικη Καταρ. Ηλθε επιτελους η ωρα να αποκτησει αξιολογο εθνικο συγκροτημα αυτη η συμπαθης χωρα.

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Για λογους συναισθηματικους, το εθνικο συμβολο, ηγουν οτι η σημαια της Ελλαδος θα ειναι ραμμενη στο εσωτερικο του σλιπ  των ποδοσφαιριστων του Εθνικου Συγκροτηματος.

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Αισθανομαι εξαντλημενος μετα απο το εξονυχιστικο και κατατοπιστικο αποκλειστικο ρεπορταζ, και κλεινω με μια προειδοποιηση προς ολους οσοι πιθανα εκφρασουν αντιρρησεις στο μεγαλοπνοο προγραμμα που μολις περιεγραψα: Οσοι διαφωνειτε στα τσακιδια και γρηγορα πριν….

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Και (για να μην ξεχνιομαστε) ολοι οι τεμπεληδες που ηρθανε στην ομορφη χωρα μας για να τη μολυνουνε, στα τσακιδια κι εσεις ολοι! Βιτ!!!!! Α λα Μαιζον!!!!!

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Δεν χρειαζεται να πω κατι αλλο. Χρειαζεται;

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Και δια να δωσω την πληρη εικονα του φρονηματος του ελληνικου λαου, επιτρεψατε μου να μοιραστω μαζι σας μια επικαιρη φωτογραφια, οπου νεες ελληνιδες ατενιζουν την νεα ελλαδα με αισιοδοξια.

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Chesme or Chesma, Turkey

View of the Castle, Chesme, Turkey

Chesme is a small town at the edge of the Erythrean peninsula, some 85 kilometers west of Izmir. I visited it during my recent trip in the area. As you enter the old town area, you cannot help but feel overwhelmed by the presence of the castle.

The Chesme castle which was built in a rectangular shape in 1508 during the era of Beyazıt II presents wonderful scenery with 6 towers and ditches on 3 sides. İt was first built at sea level, but it was left inside as the sea was filled within the course of time.

Cezayirli Gazi Hasan Pasha, Chesme, Turkey

The impressive bronze statues of Cezayirli Gazi Hasan Pasha and his lion pet figure prominently in the old town. He was a fleet commander in the Battle of Chesme (1770), during the Russo-Turkish war of 1768-1774, where the Turkish fleet was almost destryed by the Russians. Cezayirli Gazi Hasan Pasha managed to rescue his ship and crew and sailed back to Istanbul, where he gave the Sultan the bad news. There is some interesting twist in the story. I quote from wikipedia:

“Anecdotal evidence indicates that, immediately after the defeat at Chesma, he and his men were lodged by a local priest in Ayvalık who did not know who they were. Hasan Pasha did not forget the kindness shown at that hour of crisis and later accorded virtual autonomy to the Greek-dominated town of Ayvalık, paving the way for its becoming an important cultural center for that community in the Ottoman Empire in the 19th century.”

Hagios Haralambos Church at Cesme, Turkey (on the right) is today a cultural center

The Church of Hagios Haralambos was the biggest on the Erythrean peninsula when the Greeks were living in the area. It was built in 1832 by a rich Greek merchant from the island of Chios, 8 nautical miles west of Chesme, who was a friend of the Sultan, and asked for his permission to build a church in Chesme. The Sultan gave the merchant a piece of rope, sealed on both sides with the Sultan’s seal of wax, and told him that he could build a church that would not in any side exceed the length of the rope.

Buildings in Chesme, Turkey

Today the Church has been converted to a cultural center. I did not go in, as it was locked. Other people who got in later, said that the interior was covered by carpets and other handicrafted materials.

Restored house in Chesme, Turkey

The name of the town means “fountain” in Turkish. Until 1922 the majority of the inhabitants were Greeks and Orthodox Christians.

Ruin in Chesme, Turkey

After 1922, all the Christians were expelled and most of their homes either given to Turks who came to Chesme from Greece, or abandoned alltogether.

A lot of the Turks who settled in Cesme from Greece have come from the island of Crete.

Abandoned hotel in Chesme, Turkey

Today Chesme is a thriving town of 10,000 inhabitants, who multiply during the summer months. The area is the desired destination of high level domestic tourism, as well as international.

The bay in Chesme, Turkey

In one of the coffee shops of the area I met “Ali”, a Turk who is married to a Greek woman and used to live in Athens. They have moved to Cesme recently. While Greece is in the midst of the worst financial crisis after the collapse of 1932, the western shores of Turkey, and especially the Cesme peninsula is booming.

In Izmir I met a Greek woman who told me that she and her husband moved to Izmir a year ago. She has a job in Izmir and her husband – a builder – is most of the time working in construction sites in the Cesme peninsula.

Yacht and sailing boat marina in Chesme, Turkey

The town of Cesme features a wonderful marina. It was full of shiny boats. Unfortunately I cannot say the same for the island of Chios, a few miles to the west.

Kofteci Ramiz: Kayseri Kofte, Chesme, Turkey

Last but not least, a quick lunch in the chain of “Kofteci Ramiz” proved that even fast food can be good. Grilled beef patties, mixed with Kaşar chese, on sliced pita bread, garnished with tomatoes, fresh pepper and parsley. Special chilli sauce is on request.

Wind turbines near Chesme, Turkey

Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province, Turkey – Σκαλα (Κάτω Βουρλά)

Road Sign to Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province

I recently visited Izmir and toured parts of the Izmir province.

Today I publish some of the photos I took in the small seaside town of Iskele (Skala in Greek).

The Swan is the symbol of the ancient Ionian city of Klazomenai

Iskele is located a short distance away from the city of Urla (Vourla in Greek), built near the site of the ancient Ionian city of Klazomenai (Clazomenae), the birthplace of philosopher Anaxagoras.

Goalpost in Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province, Turkey

The city of Urla is located 40km west of Izmir, on the Rythrean peninsula.

Fishing boats in Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province, Turkey

The small port of Iskele in the 19th century and early 20th century was very busy when the famous raisin of the area was shipped abroad. According to some sources, in 1910 more than 1,600 tonnes were exported to Austria alone.

The summer house of the Seferis family in Iskerle, Urla, Izmir Province

Many wealthy families from Izmir and Urla had their summer residence in Iskele. One of the them, was the family of Stelios Seferiadis, a lawyer, and father of the Greek Nobel Laureate Giorgos Seferis, who was born in Izmir and raised in Urla. The residence is a complex of buildings that has been turned into a hotel and restaurant.

Renovated house in Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province

According to the census of 1920, the city of Urla had 50,000 inhabitants; 35,000 Greeks, 5,000 Turks and 10,000 Armenians and Jews. Only 500 of them were living in Iskele.

Public Park in Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province

As I was walking in the small town, a local resident asked me in Greek “where are you from?” And he knew the answer before I gave it to him.

Houses in Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province

… because incoherence is preferable to a distorting order …

“In certain places, at certain hours, gazing at the sea is dangerous.

It is what looking at a woman sometimes is.”

Victor Hugo

“I looked at Pauline and asked her if she felt she had the courage to bear the pounding brilliance of the sun and the strength to walk on the sand”

Honore de Balzac

“I was nearly sixteen when I met Simone, a girl my own age, at the beach in X. Our families being distantly related, we quickly grew intimate.”

Georges Batailles

“I am most useful when I am not needed”

My personal self

“what is in life that is not an enigma riddle?

isn’t life itself a riddle enigma”

Nikos Eggonopoulos

“Like all texts, the beach has an author – not, admittedly, a named individual, but a historically determined set of community practices that have produced material objects or signs.”

John Fiske

“The sea washes away and cleanses every human stain”

Euripides, Iphigenia in Tauris

Notes: 1.The phrase in the title is quoted by Roland Barthes as being “Gidean”, ie belonging to Andre Gide.

2. I took the photographs in Marathon Beach, Attica, Greece, in mid September 2012.

By the (breaking) sea wave: A “Fluxus Eleatis” Discourse

Mr. FFF: Παρα θιν αλος. By the breaking sea wave.

MM: I see Priest Chryses praying. For his daughter Chryseis has been kidnapped by Agamemnon who does not want to release her.

βή δ’ ακέων παρά θίνα πολυφλοίσβοιο θαλάσσης…

πήρε βουβός του πολυτάραχου γιαλού τον άμμον

Ομηρου Ιλιας, Ραψωδια Α34

Without a word, he went by the shore of the noisy sea (or ‘sounding sea’)

Homer, Iliad, A34

Mr. FFF: The priest Chryses prayed to Apollo to punish the Greek army, so that Agamemnon is forced to return to him his daughter, Chryseis.

Mrs. T: The deep sound of the sea is in stark contrast with the priest’s silent suffering.

Είπε, και την ευκή του επάκουσεν ο Απόλλωνας ο Φοίβος,
κι απ᾿ την κορφή του Ολύμπου εχύθηκε θυμό γεμάτος

Ομηρου Ιλιας, Ραψωδια Α43-44

He spoke, and Apollo Phoebus listened to his wish

and from the top pf Olympus he rushed away full of wrath

Homer, Iliad, A43-44

MM: Apollo shot the plague to the Greek Army, and Agamemnon had to return Chryseis to her father.

Mrs. T: As a compensation for his loss, Agamemnon took Bryseis from Achilles.

Mr. FFF: Achilles is furious at the loss of Briseis.

Briseis returns, sculpture by Michael Talbot

Δακρυσμένος τότε ο Αχιλλέας απ᾿ τους συντρόφους του μακραίνει και καθίζει

μπρος στον ψαρή γιαλό, το απέραντο το πέλαγο θωρώντας,

κι απλώνοντας τα χέρια ευκήθηκε στην ακριβή του μάνα

Ομηρου Ιλιας, Ραψωδια Α348-352

Achilles in tears strays away from his comrades and seats

on the beach, and looking at the vast sea,

unfolded his arms and prayed to his mother

Homer, Iliad, AHomer, Iliad, A348-352

Mr. FFF: Greeks of any age, starting with Homer, have a special relationship with the sea.

Mrs. T: The sea was considered to be the home of many deities.

MM: The sea was also a place of catharsis, a cleansing place for mortals.

Wie Meerekuesten, wenn zu baun

Anfangen die Himmliwschen und herein

Schifft unaufhaltsam, eine Pracht, das Werk

Der Woogen, eins uns andere, und die Erde

Sich ruester aus, darauf vom Freudigsten eines…

Wie Merekuesten…

Friedrich Hoelderlin

As upon seacoasts, when the gods
Begin to build and the work of the waves
Ships in unstoppably wave
After wave, in splendour, and the earth
Attires itself and then comes joy
A supreme, tuneful joy, setting …

(translation by David Constantine)

Wie Merekuesten…

Friedrich Hoelderlin

MM: I see the beach walking and…

Stephen Daedalus: Am I walking into eternity along Sandymount strand? Crush, crack, crick, crick.

MM: Stephen closed his eyes to hear his boots crush crackling wrack and shells.

Leopold Bloom: I am wandering around, avoiding to go home. I am on Sandymount strand. Following Stephen’s steps.

(young) Gerty: It is almost dusk. Roman candles are fizzing through the air.

Leopold Bloom: I cannot get my eyes off her!

(young) Gerty: I pulled my skirt up and revealed my garters.

Leopold Bloom: I surrender, I am too weak to resist.

(young) Gerty: I behaved as an exhibitionist. Will I ever be as important as Molly is?

Leopold Bloom:  I behaved as a true voyeur. I am aging.

Mr. FFF: I like garters.

Mrs. T: The description of the episode with Bloom and (young) Gerty made the US Courts to ban the book as indecent.

 

The beach shines like a mirror, swallowing the confusion of forms, creating whatever it likes.

Here by the beach, I will be covered, in whole, by a layer of sugar, like snow.

It is a sin to be absent from the present.

Nikos Gabriel Pentzikis, Mrs. Ersis’ Novel

Ο γιαλος στιλβει σαν καθρεφτης, καταπινοντας τη συγχυση των μορφων, σχηματιζοντας ο,τι θελει αυτος.

Εδω στην ακρογιαλια, ολοκληρον, θα με καλυψει σαν χιονι ενα στρωμα απο ζαχαρη.

Αμαρτια η απουσια απο το παρον.

Νικος Γαβριηλ Πεντζικης, Το Μυθιστορημα της κυριας Ερσης

Πῶς δύναται τὶς νὰ γίνει ἀνὴρ χωρὶς ν᾿ ἀγαπήσει δεκάκις τουλάχιστον, καὶ δεκάκις ν᾿ ἀπατηθεῖ ;

How could anyone become a man without falling in love at least ten times, and betrayed ten times?

Alexandros Papadiamantis

MM: I see the kissing-on-the-beach sequence where Lancaster and Kerr roll around in the Pacific Ocean’s frothy waves, lips locked as the surf washes over them.

Mrs. T: Lancaster’s sergeant (Milton Warden) with Deborah Kerr playing Karen Holms, another officer’s wife

Mr. FFF: The American censors deleted four seconds from that provocative love-making scene.

Mrs. T: From Here to Eternity was nominated for 13 Oscars and won eight, including best film and best director. It won rave reviews and became one of the highest-grossing films of the Fifties.

Du musst das Leben nicht verstehen,

dann wird es werden wie ein Fest.

You should not understand Life,

then it will be like a celebration.

Rainer Maria Rilke

MM: I see the beach swimming after sunset

Mrs. T: I have never done this.

Mr. FFF: I had a friend who rejoiced every time she had a chance to swim during the night. She could stay up all night swimming.

Τα πρωτα μου χρονια τ’ αξεχαστα τα’ ζησα κοντα στ’ ακρογιαλι,

Στη θαλασσα εκει τη ρηχη και την ημερη,

στη θαλασσα εκει την πλατιεα, τη μεγαλη…

Στη θαλασσα εκει…

Κωστης Παλαμας

I have lived my first unforgetable years by the beach,

There by the shallow and quite sea,

the wide, the great sea, there…

There by the sea

Kostis Palamas

MM: I see the Hotel des Roses in Rhodes.

Mrs. T: I like roses.

Mr. FFF: This is where I was going to swim when I was a kid. For hours on and on. 10am to 7pm. Full time job.

MM: I see the bay of Ladiko, near Kolymbia in Rhodes.

Mrs. T: Looks great!

Mr. FFF: It was even better when there was nobody there! Years ago, access to the bay was blocked and the man who had the keys was a good family friend.

MM: I see food and drinks by the beach.

Mrs. T: Allow me. First stop is Damianos Fishtavern, Ambelas, Paros island, Greece.

Mr. FFF: Wonderful setting, and dedication to serving good seafood all year round.

Mrs. T: It is amazing how different food tastes when you smell the sea breeze!

MM: I see food and drinks on the cliff.

Mrs. T: Second stop. Akelare Restaurante, San Sebastian, Basque Country.

Mr. FFF: Up on a cliff, overlooking the Atlantic, stands one of the shrines of gastronomy in the wonderful land of the Basque people.

Mrs. T: The place is full of the joy of life.

Η θέα

MM: I see seafood by the beach at night.

Mrs. T: Third stop. Ristorante Uliassi, Senigallia, Marche, Italia.

Mr. FFF: Now we are in the Riviera Romagnola, where the ITalians have invented the “beach without the sea”. Nevertheless, in this riviera, where everything happens, where the high and the low co-exist peacefully, Uliassi does his magic. It is worth the trip. Even if you do not make it to the sea.

MM: I see seafood on a balcony overlooking the beach.

Mrs. T: Aristodimos Fishtavern, Pachi, Megara, Greece.

Mr. FFF: Back to the homeland. An unassuming small seaside town 40 km from Athens presents the goods of the sea in a way that honors centuries of eating seafood.

Κουκλι σκετο, με το κλωναρι συκιας να βγαινει μεσα απο την προβλητα!

MM: I see Death encounters by the beach.

Mrs. T: Disillusioned knight Antonius Block and his squire Jöns return after fighting in the Crusades and find Sweden being ravaged by the plague. On the beach immediately after their arrival, Block encounters Death.

Mr. FFF: Black and White. The agony of Man in front of the inevitable. But the sea makes everything look natural. This is why the sea gives another meaning to life.

Mrs. T: (reading from a book): “The whole beach, once so full of colour and life, looked now autumnal, out of season; it was nearly deserted and not even very clean. A camera on a tripod stood at the edge of the water, apparently abandoned; its black cloth snapped in the freshening wind.”

Mr. FFF: (reading from the same book): “Some minutes passed before anyone hastened to the aid of the elderly man sitting there collapsed in his chair. They bore him to his room. And before nightfall a shocked and respectful world received the news of his decease.”

“Prayer does not change God, but it does change the one who prays.”
Soren Kirkegaard

“The essence of truth is freedom”

Martin Heidegger

Participants

Achilles

Ingmar Bergman, Swedish Film Director

Leopold Bloom

Briseis

Priest Chryses

Chryseis

Stephen Daedalus

Mr. FFF, wanderer

Caspar David Friedrich, German Painter

Martin Heidegger, German Philosopher

Friedrich Hoeldrlin, German Poet

(young) Gerty

Homer, Greek Poet

Soren Kirkegaard, Dane Philosopher

MM, partner

Kostis Palamas, Greek Poet

Alexandros Papadiamantis, Greek Writer

Nikos Gabriel Pentzikis, Greek Writer and Painter,

Otto Preminger, American Film Director

Rainer Maria Rilke, Bohemian-Austrian Poet

Mrs. T, gourmant

References

Akelare Restaurant, San Sebastian, Basque Country

Aristodimos Fishtavern, Pachi, Megara, Greece

Damianos Fishtavern, Ambelas, Paros Island, Greece

From Here to Eternity, A Film by: Otto Preminger

A Hole in the Head. A Film by: Frank Capra

Edge of Heaven (Auf der anderen Seite), A Film by Fatih Akin

Restaurante Uliassi, Senigallia, Marche, Italia

The Sea: A “Fluxus Eleatis” discourse

Archilochus: Look Glaucus! Already waves are disturbing the deep sea and a cloud stands straight round about the heights of Gyrae, a sign of storm; from the unexpected comes fear.

Julia Kristeva: We are no doubt permanent subjects of a language that holds us in its power. But we are subjects in process, ceaselessly losing our identity, destabilized by fluctuations in our relations to the other, to whom we nevertheless remain bound by a kind of homeostasis.

W.B. Yeats: What can be explained is not poetry. 

First Steward: Good evening Mrs. T, Mr. FFF, welcome on board! Your cabin is ready. Is there something we can do for you before we show you to your cabin?

Mrs. T:  Good evening Mr. Gerassimidis! It is always nice to see you!

Mr. FFF: Good evening to you too! It is good to see you again! Are we on time?

First Steward: We are on time, and we are going to have calm seas.

Mr. FFF: What time is dinner served?

First Steward: We start at 8pm sharp. Shall I book a table for you?

Mr. FFF: Yes, please. Now you can show us to our cabin.

Mrs. T: How long is the journey?

Mr. FFF: Approximately 18 hours. Assuming the sea is calm. It could be 14 hours, but with all the interim ports of call the time increases significantly.

Mrs. T: Are we going to see the dolphins?

Mr. FFF: Only if we are lucky. But if we do, it is a spectacular ballet show. And the music of the sea with the humming of the ship’s engines in the background brings the experience to supernatural levels.

Ανωνυμος Ναυτης: Θυμαμαι την πρωτη μου αναχωρηση μ’ ενα μεγαλο ποσταλε. Τη στιγμη εκεινη που πραγματοποιουσα το λαμπροτερον ονειρο μου, ημουν γιοματος αμφιβολια και φοβο.

(Unnamed Mariner: I remember my first sailing on a big postale. The moment I was realizing my brightest dream, I was full of doudt and fear.)

Alvaro Mutis: This is how we forget: our affairs, no matter how close to us, are made strange through the mimetic, deceptive, constant working of a precarious present. When one of these images returns with all its voracious determination to survive intact, then what learned men call epiphany occurs: an experience that can be either devastating or a simple confirmation of certain truths that allow us to go on living.

Maqroll “el Gaviero”: I think I’ve exaggerated the true significance of the death of the Duc of Orléans. . . . There’s a monotony in crime, and it’s not advisable to have too much to do with it in books or in life.

Jon Iturri: For three consecutive days we stayed in Hotel Lisboa without exiting the room, which we had transformed into a kind of our own universe, where incidents of eroticism were coming one after another, with the only words given to describing our childhood years and how we discovered the world.

Alvaro Mutis: Because, of course, in a place like that, one experiences situations which are extreme and absolute. In there the density of human  relations is absolute. And there is one thing you learn in prison, and I passed it on to Maqroll, and that is that you don’t judge, you don’t say, that guy committed a terrible crime against his family, so I can’t be his friend. No, in a place like that one coexists. The judging is done by the judges on the outside.

Ανωνυμος Ναυτης: Δεν μπορω να καταλαβω κι εγω ο ιδιος τον εαυτο μου. Ειναι ωρες που νομιζω πως δεν ειμαι τιποτα περισσοτερο απο το μαυρο θερμαστη Τζοννυ, που ζει μοναχα για να τρωει. Ειναι ωρες που νομιζω πως ολα μεσα μου εχουν πεθανει και λεω πως η καρδια μου εχει σκληρυνει, καθως οι παλαμες μου. .. Εχω δει τοσα και τοσα… Κι αλλες ωρες παλι, νομιζω πως μεσα μου εχω ολη την καλοσυνη και την αγνοτητα, που λειπει του κοσμου…

(Unnamed Mariner: I cannot understand my own self. There are moments I think I am nothing more than the black fireman Johnny, who lives only to eat. There are moments I think that everything inside me is dead and I say that my heart is as tough as my palm… I have seen a lot… And then, I think that I have in me all the goodness and purity that the world is longing for…)

Mr. FFF: I have often pictured myself in Tangier, restless and subdued, loving it and hating it, looking from a hill all the way to the north, to Gibraltar, to the escape. Crossing the Pillars of Hercules, entering another life, another planet, another universe, getting away from all the mess. In this sense a sea journey always has this cleansing aspect. The sea takes away all the mess you carry with you.

Mrs T: Why in Tangier?

Mr. FFF: Because I still have this dream that I am in Tangier and I meet W S Burrows in one of the tea shops up on the hill. And then I get on a boat and leave him behind. We do not exchange a single word. We just look at each other and drink tea. As a matter of fact, nobody in the tea shop talks. They drink tea and smoke shisha. I wanted to ask Burrows why he killed Joan Vollmer.

W S Burrows: (we hear his voice through a cloud, but cannot see him) I am forced to the appalling conclusion that I would never have become a writer but for Joan’s death, and to a realization of the extent to which this event has motivated and formulated my writing. I live with the constant threat of possession, and a constant need to escape from possession, from control. So the death of Joan brought me in contact with the invader, the Ugly Spirit, and maneuvered me into a life long struggle, in which I have had no choice except to write my way out.

Mrs. T: The sea cleanses, the sea kills, the sea destroys all evidence of a committed crime. The sea gives you refuge, the sea hides you away from the prying eyes of society, it is the protector of the all the runaways. Hide away, hide away sinful souls! But even worse is the running away of those who have not committed any crime, but run away from themselves. Even the sea cannot save them.

Headwaiter: Would you like to have a drink before your meal?

Mrs. T: I would like a bitter Campari with soda water, a slice of lemon and ice.

Mr. FFF: A double scotch on the rocks for me please.

Headwaiter: Certainly. Here is our menu for tonight. I recommend the grilled shark steak. It is as fresh as it gets.

Mrs. T: Did you catch the shark while sailing? I would loooove to have the juicy grilled shark steak with sea weed rolls stuffed with angulas. 

Headwaiter: I had these rolls in Bilbao, and I loved them,. Unfortunately I cannot offer them to you tonight. Could I possibly offer you instead boiled vegetables with mustard sauce?

Mrs. T: Of course, it was a long shot anyway! Boiled vegetables will be fine. But please hold the mustard sauce.

Mr. FFF: Shall we have a robust white wine with the shark? Like assyrtico from Santorini.

Headwaiter: Splendid choice, I can serve you “Santorini” by Sigalas, 2008.

Ανδρέας Σπερχής: Βεατρίκη!…Βεατρίκη!…Συγχώρησέ με.

(Andreas Sperchis: Beatrice!.. Beatrice!… Forgive me!)

W.B. Yeats

Cast a cold Eye
On Life, on Death.
Horseman, pass by!

Υβοννη: Τι συμβαίνει και δεν ημπορεί κανείς να απολαμβάνη πάντοτε τον έρωτα σαν μίαν ωραίαν οπώραν {…}, σαν ένα ωραίο τοπείον, σαν ένα ωραίο ξένοιστο πρωί, πασίχαρο, αυροφίλητο, γιομάτο ευφροσύνη, σαν ένα μυροβόλο περιβόλι, ή σαν μια καθαρή αμμουδιά, λουσμένη από γαλάζιο πέλαγος ευδαιμονίας; Μήπως δεν φταίει καθόλου, μα καθόλου ο έρως  (εξηκολούθησε να σκέπτεται μα αιμάσσουσαν καρδίαν η Υβόννη). Μήπως φταίει ο τρόπος με τον οποίον αντιμετωπίζουν οι άνθρωποι τον έρωτα, τόσον εις το ατομικόν, όσον και εις το κοινωνικόν επίπεδον; Μήπως, αν δεν έμπαινε στη μέση το λεγόμενον «αίσθημα» και η λεγομένη «ηθική», θα ημπορούσε τότε μόνον να είναι ο έρως τέλειος και απλός και εύκολος, επ’ άπειρον πανήδονος και απολύτως παντοδύναμος – όλο χαρά (μόνο χαρά), όλο γλύκα (μόνο γλύκα), χωρίς απαγορεύσεις, στερήσεις, πικρίες, διάφορα «μούπες-σούπα» και άλλα αηδή και ακατανόητα, όπως η αποκλειστικότης, η εντός του γάμου αγνότης και όλη η σχετική με αυτόν απέραντη όσον και μάταια ηθικολογία και φιλολογία;

(Yvonne: Why is it that one cannot enjoy sex as a tasty fruit… as a beautiful landscape, as a wonderful morning, without worries, full of joy, fresh air, as a garden full of perfumes, or a shiny sandy beach, caressed by the blue sea? Could it be that this has nothing to do with eros? < continued to wonder with her heart bleeding >. Could it be the way that people handle eros both on a personal and on a social level? Could it be that if there were no “emotional” component and the so called “ethical” dimension, that eros could be perfect and simple and easy, endlessly hedonistic and absolutely omnipotent – full of joy – only joy – without prohibitions, bitter moments, all the incomprehensible  nonsense like fidelity, exclusivity, purity within the wedding and other similar stuff?)

Mr. FFF: (reading from the voluminous novel “Great Anatolikos”, of Andreas Empeirikos) Yvonne all of a sudden stopped crying. It was as if she saw a light, a bright light coming from a lighthouse off the southeastern tip of the coast of Ireland.

Υβοννη: Μήπως, μα τον Θεόν, ο μόνος Θεός ήτο ένας τεράστιος και παντοδύναμος Ψώλων και, ουσιαστικώς, υπήρχαν μόνον ηδοναί, διά του πανισχύρου Πέους του και του υπερπλουσίου Σπέρματός του χορηγούμεναι; Και μήπως αι ηδοναί αύται, τουτέστιν αι ερωτικαί, ήσαν αι πράξεις εκείναι, που επλησίαζαν ασυγκρίτως περισσότερον απ’ οτιδήποτε άλλο τους ανθρώπους προς τον Μεγαλοψώλονα Θεόν, τον απόλυτον Πλάστην και Κτήτορα του Κόσμου, τον απόλυτον Κύριον των Δυνάμεων, τον απόλυτο Άρχοντα των Ουρανών και της μικράς μας Γης;

(Yvonne: Could it be, that the only God were a huge omnipotent Phallus, and, essentially, there were only pleasures on earth, disseminated eternally by its powerful flesh and abundant semen? And it could it also be, that these erotic pleasures, were the actions that were bringing humans close to the Omnipotent Phallus, the Absolute Creator and Owner of the World, the absolute Keeper of the Forces, the absolute Master of the Skies and our little Earth? )

Stendhal: J’entreprends d’écrire l’histoire de ma vie jour par jour

Γιωργος Σεφερης: Μερα με τη μερα ζουμε τη ζωη μας – δεν τη γραφουμε.

(George Seferis: Day by day we live our life – we do not write it.)


Dimitri Mitropoulos: There is a plan for April 1052, a grand tour; travelling on a ship we will call on all Mediterranean ports, where the Philharmonic (New York) under my humble direction, will play, not on board the ship, but in the concert halls of the cities. The route is roughly this: Liboa, Barcelona, Palermo, Athens, Tel-Aviv, Napoli, Roma, Firenze, Milano, Genoa. Later we added Paris to the tour, which means that the whole Orchestra will get off the ship in Marseille and return to the States from Cherbourg on another vessel.

Mr. FFF: The ashes of Maria Callas have been scaterred over these blue waters.

Mrs. T: Why did she die?

Mr. FFF: Because she could no longer love. And life without the ability to love had no meaning for her.

Mrs. T: If you have the ability to love, other people love you?

Mr. FFF: Not necessarily. But you have piece with yourself.

Mrs. T: So you are saying that Callas died because she could not find piece with herself.

Mr. FFF: Yes, you could put it this way.

Mrs. T: Why is it so hard. if not impossible, to find inner piece if you have lost the ability to love?

Mr. FFF: When you lose the ability to love, you begin to view life as an end, the end. Death takes over the mystery of life and it no longer is a mystery, but a horrid affair.

Ανωνυμος Ναυτης: Δεν εχω ερωτευτει ποτε στη ζωη μου… Εγνωρισα χιλιαδες γυναικες. Ειναι ολες τους παντοτε ιδιες… Εχω καιρο να κοιμηθω με γυναικες. Γι’ αυτο το πραμα οι ναυτες με κοροιδευουν. Εγω δεν φταιω… Ειναι μια ιστορια που η αρχη της ειχε γραφτει στο επιβατικο, που ταξιδευα αλλοτε… Ειναι μια θλιβερη ιστορια…Δεν θυμαμαι πια τ’ ονομα της. Αυτο δεν εχει καμια σημασια. Οι γυναικες δεν θα’ πρεπε να’ χουν ονοματα, αφου ολες τους ειναι ιδιες… Ταξιδευε απο την Αλεξανδρεια για τη Μασσαλια με τη μητερα της. Ητανε κορη ενος βαμβακεμπορου, που ειχε ξεπεσει κι αυτοκτονησε…. Μου χαρησε ενα πορτοφολι απο ψαροδερμα και της χαρισα το Σταυρο μου… Υστερα απο τρια χρονια στο Μπουενος Αιρες κοιμηθηκα μια νυχτια με καποια γυναικα. Το πρωι οταν εβγαλα το πορτοφολι μου να πληρωσω, δεν ξερω πως, εβγαλε μια φωνη καθως το ειδε κι εγω αλλη μια, οταν ειδα ενα μικρο σταυρο καρφωμενο στη ρομπα της… Μπορει και να το’ δα στον υπνο μου. Μου φαινεται ομως πως ολες οι γυναικες ειναι το ιδιο.

(Unnamed Mariner: I have never fallen in love in my life…. I have met thousands of women. They are always all the same… I haven’ t slept with a woman for a long time now. One of the reasons the sailors make fun of me. It is not my fault… It is a story whose beginning has been written on a passenger ship, where I used to work… It is a sad story… I no longer remember her name. It does not matter. Women should not have names, as they are all the same… She was travelling from Alexandria to Marseille with her mother. She was the daughter of a cotton merchant who went bancrupt and committed suicide. .. She gave me a wallet made of fishskin and I gave her my cross… Three years later, in Buenos Aires, I slept one night with a woman. In the morning, when I took out my wallet to pay her, I do not know, she screamed as she saw it and I screamed back when I saw a small cross pinned on her dress… I could be dreaming. Nevertheless, it appears to e that all women are the same.))

Frederico Fellini:  I love shipwrecks. Decadence is indispensable to rebirth

Mr. FFF: A dear friend years ago was bragging about specializing in the hauling of shipwrecks. In his own sarcastic way he was referring to his need – of the time – to relate to women in the middle of a huge personal crisis.

Alberto Moravia: (on Frederico Fellini’s film “E la Nave va”) What is brilliant,” is the intuition that European society of the Belle Epoque had emptied itself of all humanism leaving only an artificial and exhaustive formalism. The result was a society founded on a continuous yet contemptible melodrama. The other genial intuition is that of the fundamental unity of the world back then which was completely bourgeois or utterly obsessed with the bourgeoisie. This idea comes through magnificently in the scene where immaculate opera singers perform leaning over the iron balcony of the engine room as sweat-grimed workers cease stoking the furnace with coal to listen to the splendid voices.

Frederico Fellini: Opera has an insane aspect that is truly fascinating. Opera is a ritual, a Mass, a shepherd’s song…

Dimitri Mitropoulos: Here I am, on solid earth again, after an unforgettable sea trip! If you could only see me from a distance, how I survived these 19 horrible days on the lousy ship. But as you can see, I did not die; I made music and played bridge, trying to fight against the complete lack of comfort, the detestable food and the continuous rocking of the boat… I have thought of you more than one thousand times, I was sad, sad in the thought that it will be a long time before I see again the people I love. I wonder if my musical gifts and talent deserve this sacrifice.

Frederico Fellini:  It (filming) makes us regard people and things as if the whole world was a set at our disposal, an immense prop de­partment on which we lay our hands without asking permission. It is somewhat like a painter for whom objects, faces, houses, the sky are merely forms at his disposal. For the cinema everything becomes a still life without limits; even the feelings of others are something placed at out disposal.

Ανδρεας Εμπειρικος: Χτες ακουσα τον μεγαλυτερο μπασο του κοσμου τον Chaliapin. Τραγουδησε την περιφημη αρια απο την οπερα του  Mussorgsky Boris Godunov οπου ειναι θειος. Τραγουδησε και πολλα ρωσικα τραγουδια δραματικα, λυρικα, και λαικα. Και παντου θριαμβεψε. Τι φωνη, τι μεταλλο, τι χρωμα τι δυναμη! Σε κεραβνοβολει και σε χαϊδεβει συναμα. Μεγαλος αρτιστας ο Chaliapin.

(Andreas Empeirikos: Yesterday I heard the greatest bass of the world, Chaliapin. He sung the famous aria of Mussorgsky’s Boris Godunov. He was divine. He also sung many other songs. He triumphed in each one of them. What a voice, what metal, what colour, what intensity! It hits you like a thunder and at the same time it caresses you. Chaliapin is a great artist.)

Mr. FFF: My grandfather was very fond of Chaliapin. He had loads of his records. But he had to exchange them for olive oil during the second world war. Primum vivere, deinte philosophare.


Ανδρεας Εμπειρικος: Πατερα… Δεν μου φαινεται δυνατον να συνεργασθω με εναν ανθρωπο σαν και σενα παρα την μεγαλη αξια που σου αναγνωριζω σε πολλα επιπεδα. Δεν ειναι αρκετα ανθρωπος για μενα. ..Λοιπον αντι να ξαναμπω στις δουλειες σου παραιτουμαι απ’ ολες περα για περα και σου αφηνω γεια.

(Andreas Empeirikos: Father… It does not appear possible to work with a person like you, in spite of how valuable I consider you in many areas. You are not human enough for me… So instead of joining you again in your business I resign from everything and bid you farewell.)



Ανωνυμος Ναυτης: Ζαλιστηκα. Ετσι οπως τοτε παιδι, που μ’ επιανε η θαλασσα. Τι ατιμο πραμα η ναυτια… Ξερατο, χολες. Γινεσαι μπαιγνιο, κουρελι. Τιποτ’ αλλο δε σκεφτεσαι, παρα πως θα ξεμπαρκαρεις, μολις φτασεις στο πρωτο λιμανι. Εφτασες; Τα ξεχνας ολα και ξαναφευγεις. Αρχιζεις να συνηθας. Νομιζεις. Δε σε ζαλιζει πια το ποτζι, μα σε χαλαει το σκαμπανεβασμα. Παει κι αυτο. Σου μενει να συνηθισεις τωρα οταν σκαμπανεβαρει και ποτζαρει μαζι. Εισαι νετα. Κανεις αχταρμα. Αλλαζεις καραβι. Πρεπει να μαθεις τα κουνηματα του καινουργιου. Καθε καραβι εχει τα δικα του. Ενας φορτηγισος ζαλιζεται σ’ ενα ποσταλι. Παραξενη αρρωστια. Φαρμακο… η στερια. Οι κουφοι, εκεινοι που εχουνε χασει την οσφρηση, δεν ζαλιζονται. Μητε οι τρελοι.

(Unnamed Mariner: I am sea sick. As when I was a kid, and the sea was making me sick. What a terrible thing … sea sickness. You become a wreck. You cannot think of anything else, but how to get off, as soon as you arrive at the first port of call. Have you arrived? You forget everything and sail off again. You begin to get used to it. You think you are. You change ship. You have to get used to the movements of the new ship. Every ship moves in its own way. A cargo ship sailor gets sick on a passenger ship. Strange sickness. The only medicine is the ground. The deaf, the ones who cannot smell anything, they do not get sea sickness. Neither do the mad.)

Ιωαννης ο Θεολογος (Αποκαλυψη): Και εδωκεν η θαλασσα τους νεκρους τους εν αυτη, και ο θανατος και ο Αιδης εδωκαν τους νεκρους τους εν αυτοις, και εκριθησαν εκαστος κατα τα εργα αυτων.

(St John the Divine: The sea gave up the dead that were in it, and death and Hades gave up the dead that were in them, and each person was judged according to what he had done.)

Participants

Archilochus, 7th century BC Greek poet, from the island of Paros

Andreas Empeirikos: Greek born and raised in Vraila, Romania, writer and psychoanalyst

Mr. FFF, Greek, wanderer

First Steward, Greek, passenger ship

Frederico Fellini, Italian film maker

Headwaiter, passenger ship

Jon Iturri, Basque sea captain

Saint John the Divine, author of the Revelation

Maqroll “el Gaviero”, unknown ethnicity, hero in many Alvaro Mutis novels

Unnamed Mariner, in the journals of Nikos Kavvadias

Unnamed Millitary Officer, South American

Dimitri Mitropoulos, Greek conductor and composer

Alberto Moravia, Italian novelist

Alvaro Mutis, Colombian writer

Captain Nick, Greek, captain of motor ship “Gloria”

George Seferis, Greek poet and Nobel Laureate in Literature

Andreas Sperchis, Greek of Wallachian origin

Stendhal, French writer

Mrs. T, unknown ethnicity, gourmant

Voltaire: French writer and philosopher

W.B. Yeats, Irish poet and playwright

Yvonne, a passenger of “Megas Anatolikos”

In my beginning is my end (T.S. Eliot, Four Quartets, East Coker, I)

5th century BC

Acropolis, Athens, Greece

6th century AD

Basilica di San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy

16th century

Matthias Gruenewald, Die Stuppacher Mdonna

Tiziano: Salome con la testa di S. Giovanni Battista

16th – 17th century

Caravaggio, San Giovanni Battista

18th century

San Francisco Church, Salvador, Bahia, Brasil

Inside the Church of San Francisco in Salvador

19th century

Cezanne, Large Pine and Red Earth

Degas, The Millinery Shop

20th century and beyond

Nolde, Hermit on Tree

Freud's Couch, The Freud Museum, London, England

Helmut Newton

Maria Adair, Instalacao Ambiental

Elaine Roberts, Lotus Flower

Venice - my photo

Anselm Kiefer, Salt of the Earth

Boy - my photo

Thomas Schutte, Efficiency Men

Naoussa, Paros, Greece - my photo

Lefkes, Paros, Greece - my photo

Marpissa, Paros, Greece - my photo

The Earth of Marathon, Attica, Greece - my photo

T.S. Eliot - Four Quartets, East Coker, III

 

Happy New Year!!!

P.S. This came as a result of rediscovering X’s letter with the extensive quotation from Eliot’s poem “Four Quartets”. The hand written page is hers.

Seafood!!! Images for the body and the soul (from Venice's Rialto fishmarket)

Today’s post is food for the body and soul, images from Venice’s seafood market in Rialto.

Rialto Fishmarket in Venice

I love fishmarkets!!! As you can tell from a sequence of posts already dedicated to them!!!!

No words or explanations or arguments are necessary.

Red Mullets - Barboni - Μπαρμπουνια

Alici - Γαυρος

Sardines - Sarde - Σαρδελλες

Sardines - Sarde - Σαρδελλα φιλετο

Molli

Orate

Papaline

Monkfish - Rana peskantrice - Πεσκανδριτσα

Palombo

Eel - Anguila

Swordfish - Pesce Spada - Ξιφιας

Skate - Razza - Σαλαχι

Skate - Razza - Σαλαχι

Sole - Sogliola - Γλωσσα

San Pietro

Scorpion Fish - Scorfano - Σκορπινα

Tuna

Scallops - Canestrelli - Χτενια

Scallops - Capesante - Κοχυλια του Αγιου Ιακωβου

Cuttlefish eggs - Latti di seppia - Αυγα σουπιας

Small cuttlefish - Seppioline - Σουπιτσες

Cuttlefish - Seppie Grosse - Σουπιες

Small Octopi - Folpi - Χταποδακια

Octopi - Piovra - Οκταποδες

Calamaretti

Calamari

Mazzancolle

Scampi

Soft Venetian Crab

Canocce

Squilla - Canocce