Restaurante El Serbal, Santander, Cantabria, Spain

santander

Early in January I visited Cantabria, Spain and I was lucky to have lunch at El Serbal, a restaurant in the city of Santander. The restaurant is on the ground floor of an nondescript appartment complex in the center of the city.

I opted for the tasting menu paired with wines.

Amuse bouche
Amuse bouche

The amuse bouche was a fishball. I could taste the sea, but I would have liked a bit of acidity to break the saltiness and sweetness of the ball.

Fish suquet over prawns and seaweeds
Fish suquet over prawns and seaweeds

The first dish on the menu was a fish stew called “suquet”. As I read in “Spanish Recipes”:

Suquet is the diminutive form of suc, or ‘juice’, in Catalan, which meansthat this wonderfully flavored dish is more correctly called juicy fish stew. The fish and shellfish used vary from cook to cook, and so does the amount of liquid – in fact, some people call this a stew, while others call it a soup – but saffron and almonds are typically part of the mix. – See more at: http://www.spain-recipes.com/suquet.html#sthash.WIbIv7o1.dpuf

It was very light, tasty, and I particularly enjoyed the prawn’s head, the best proof of the freshness of the ingredient. The seaweed was not prominent, and I confess I would have liked its presence to be more emphatic.

Cocido montañés
Cocido montañés: black pudding fritter, chorizo “churro”

The second dish was a deconstructed local stew of the mountains.

Cocido montañés is a delicious combination of beans, greens and compango, a mix of pork fat, chorizo, ribs and black pudding from the matacíu del chon (pig butchering), accompanied by breadcrumbs, egg and other meats.

As you can see there were in the middle one piece of black pudding, one piece of pork fat, and pork belly. On the left you can see the chorizo churro, a piece of deep fried chorizo sausage. On the right is a rather awkwardly placed green bean tempura.

I have never tasted the proper stew, so I cannot relate it to the deconstructed. All the pieces were tasty, the supreme being the chorizo and the fat. The black pudding was too small apiece, and rather dry, whereas the pork belly was rather bland.

Sauteed mushrooms
Sauteed mushrooms

Sauteed mushrooms picked in the forests of the nearby mountains. Absolutely delicious! Superb ingredient, cooked with respect and care so that the natural flavors are not overpowered by the seasoning and dressing of the dish.

Catch of the day
Catch of the day

The catch of the day was merluza. Perfectly cooked, accompanied by some tasty bits and pieces which I now forget.

Shoulder of Iberian pork
Shoulder of Iberian pork

The Iberian pork shoulder was melting in the mouth. It was served on a bed of cous cous dressed in teriyaki sauce. Japan rules! Splendid simplicity, and taste to the full!

Torrija
Caramelized Torrija de Brioche

The first desert was caramelized torrija made from brioche. Torrija is a traditional “sweet” in Spain, made form stale white bread. The up market dish that I tasted was made with brioche, not exactly stale white bread, and it was absolutely delicious! I could taste the butter, I could see the caramelized sugar, I could smell the eggs of the brioche.

Nougat pie
Nougat pie

The nougat pie with ice cream that followed was nice, but I found the pastry a bit tough. It lacked the flaky delicate texture that I would have preferred. The ice cream though was faultless.

For the love of chocolate
For the love of chocolate

The coffee was served accompanied by a chocolate tray. The concoction in the small container was delicious! The trufflw did not drive me crazy, but one cannot have it all!

I went away around 5 o’clock in the afternoon, and realized that although I had been in Santander for three hours only, I already liked the place. Thank you El Serbal! Thank you Rafael!

 

Festive Lunch – 1st January 2015 – Marathon, Attica, Greece

Today I rejoice the passage of time, culminating in the coming of the new year.

tree
It was a chilly day with wet snow, but it felt nice

 

There is no better way to do that but a festive lunch, where food and drinks will have almost equal weight and pleasure potential.

menu 1 January 2015

Festive Lunch Table
Festive Lunch Table

The menu draws from Germany, Georgia, Italy and France. Greece adds the traditional cake to finish the meal, and the salad.

Bruns Raucheraal - Smoked Eel
Bruns Raucheraal – Smoked Eel

Smoked eel is one of the delicacies I will never stop craving for.

My best man, Manolis, brought me a sealed package of two smoked eels produced by Aal-Bruns, a German specialist producer.

As if I knew, I cut the eel in small pieces.

Pairing the smoked eel with a wine was a challenge.

But not for very long.

Smoked Eel
Smoked Eel

The gentle knight from Alsace came through the door and brought the solution with him. Two bottles of wine I had purchased in the Metzger winery at the beginning of the 21st century.

Metzger, Gewurztraminer Pflinz 1997
Metzger, Gewurztraminer Pflinz 1997

A late vintage of Gewurztraminer Pflinz from Alsace, produced in 1997!

I opened the first bottle, full of curiosity: Could a white wine have lasted for almost 18 years?

As you can see in the photo, the golden color of the wine gave the first answer. But this is nothing compared to the taste. Heaven on Earth!

The almost oily wine with its sublime sweetness coats the mouth and prepares it for the infusion with the smoky taste of the eel that literally melts in it. A marriage made in heaven.

Smoked Eel
Smoked Eel

I offered to my guests two options for tasting the eel. Both had as support a rectangle of whole grain bread, the first with a touch of butter on it, and the second with a spoonful of mashed pickled cabbage, beetroot, chilli pepper, celery and garlic. I personally enjoyed both, starting with the butter and then going to the pickled mix.

Needless to say, some pieces were enjoyed on their own. In the absolute magnificence of their existence. The taste is so powerful that only a small piece can be truly appreciated and enjoyed without the human being overwhelmed.

Georgian piroshki with minced beef
Georgian piroshki with minced beef

The second appetizer was a small piroshki with minced beef, a variation of a Georgian recipe.

It is smooth and spicy and tasty, while the wrapping is an ultra light and thin crepe.

The piroshki were prepared by a good friend.

Osso Bucco
Osso Bucco

The terrain is now open for the arrival of the main course, which is veal osso bucco with risotto.

I cooked the veal in a mix of carrots, celery, onions, garlic and tomatoes.

Risotto di Ossi
Risotto di Ossi

The abundant liquid of the mix I used in the risotto, which I prepared with Arborio rice from Ca Rossa.

The wine to accompany the main dish came from Toscana.

Ciacci Piccolomini di Aragona, Brunello di Montalcino, 1998
Ciacci Piccolomini di Aragona, Brunello di Montalcino, 1998

Brunello di Montalcino, 1998, produced by Ciacci Piccolomini d’ Aragona.

I had purchased both bottles in the winery’s shop near Montalcino, in Tuscany back in 2003.

The first bottle of the 16 year old wine was moderately ok, most likely due to cork problems. Drinkable, but not as rich and full as the second bottle, which gave to all great pleasure.

The risotto was the king of the main dish. It had rich flavor with considerable depth, without any of the elements overpowering the others.

The veal was tender, tasty and the rich sauce accompanied it in the best possible way.

At the end of the meal we shared the traditional “Vassilopitta”, a light cake made with mahlepi (mahlab) spice. Absolutely divine in its simplicity.

sea

Happy New Year!

 

 

Vive le terroir! Family reunion dinner in Marathon, Greece

Terroir is a concept almost untranslatable, combining soil, weather, region and notions of authenticity, of genuineness and particularity — of roots, and home — in contrast to globalized products designed to taste the same everywhere. (1)

Terroir was the theme of the family reunion dinner I hosted in Marathon, Greece.

Chicago, Illinois, USA
Chicago, Illinois, USA

It is a long way from Chicago, Illinois to Marathon!

Marathon Beach, Attica, Greece
Marathon Beach, Attica, Greece

But my cousin and his family made it, and here we were, having dinner in the piazzetta of my hunting lodge.

I had some ideas about the menu, but my inner voice was telling me to take it easy and not rush to the market with a shopping list. Instead, I was going to get the best produce and ingredient I would find on the day.

What follows is the result of this process that never fails me.

Inevitably, the menu was based on the ingredients and produce of the terroir, comprising air, soil and sea.

Beetroot from Marathon, Greece
Beetroot from Marathon, Greece

To start with the vegetables, Peter likes beetroot. So I got the best from Vassilis in Marathon.

Boiled beetroot
Boiled beetroot

In addition to the bulb, which I boiled and peeled the skin off, I boiled the leaves. Both were served au naturel, with olive oil, salt, chopped garlic and lemon juice as optional dressing on the side. I particularly enjoy the beetroot with the chopped garlic, much more than with garlic dip (skordalia in Greek). It has a powerful taste, and I particularly like the contrast of the sweetness of the beetroot with the uncompromising sting of the garlic.

Boiled beetroot leaves
Boiled beetroot leaves

Vassilis is also producing zucchini, which are unbelievably tasty.

Zucchini from Marathon, Greece
Zucchini from Marathon, Greece

So, zucchini were my second choice for a summer vegetable to enjoy on the table.

I boiled the zucchini and served them au naturel, with the dressing on the side. The taste of the zucchini without anything is so delicious, that sometimes I eat a couple without dressing, and only after I Add some olive oil, salt and lemon juice.

Green peas from Livanates, Greece
Green peas from Livanates, Greece

Moving on, I got some green peas from Livanates, a small town near Thebes.

Green peas with pomodori, onions, chilli pepper, and parseley
Green peas with pomodori, onions, chilli pepper, and parseley

I cooked them with pomodori, onion, chilli pepper, and parsley.

Another one in the bag.

The next round of dishes comes from the sea.

Skate from Euboia, Greece.
Skate from Euboia, Greece.

My fishmonger is just fantastic, and one more he proved himself to be one.

Skate from Euboia, Greece
Skate from Euboia, Greece

When he saw me he pointed at a skate on the icebed and said. “This is for you”.

I do not argue with statements like this.

Boiled skate with garlic, parseley, chilli pepper, olive oil, salt and lemon juice
Boiled skate with garlic, parseley, chilli pepper, olive oil, salt and lemon juice

I just obey. For my own good.

I boiled the fish, took the flesh off the bones and mixed it in a big bowl with chopped garlic, olive oil, a touch of salt, lemon juice and a little chilli pepper.

Shrimp from Kranidi, Greece
Shrimp from Kranidi, Greece

Then came the shrimp.

Fished from a bay east of Nafplion, they looked fantastic.

Grilled shrimp
Grilled shrimp

I grilled them as they came off the sea. I add a few bay leaves on the side of the grill, for extra flavor.

Grilled shrimp
Grilled shrimp

Last but not least, I got some super fresh sardines, because I love sardines, and Mary likes them too.

My fish monger gutted them and chopped their heads off. I sprinkled coarse salt over them and grilled them.

Grilled sardines
Grilled sardines

 

I always take them off while they are juicy and soft. My new touch was that I added some mint leaves on the side, to enhance the flavor. It worked.

The sardines were sweet, juicy and delicious.

And as Ferran Adria once said “fresh sardine is better than stale lobster”.

We had a great time, the only problem as Peter said was that there was not enough food.

Next time I will get more.

It was nice to see you guys, come again!

Kaletzi, near Marathon, view south
Kaletzi, near Marathon, view south

Sources

1. Vive le Terroir By STEVEN ERLANGER Published: August 31, 2013. The New York Times.

Varoulko Restaurant, Athens, Greece

I visited the restaurant recently, on the occasion of the visit to Athens of dear family members.

As it happens, within days the restaurant will be relocated to Piraeus, so the visit was also a farewell to the nice terrace with view of the Athenian Acropolis.

Sea bream with smoky eggplant
Sea bream with smoky eggplant

The Chef of Varoulko is Lefteris Lazarou, one of the best chefs in Greece. The restaurant specializes in seafood, and this is what we had in the menu they offered to us.

The first dish was “Sea bream fillets on a bed of smoky eggplant”. The fillets were adjoined to crispy bread, adding texture to the tasty dish. I liked the eggplant very much, but do not understand the point of adding so many mini ingredients on the dish.

Sea Bream - detail
Sea Bream – detail

I did not taste anything special in these “vegetable drops”. If the intention is to add color to the presentation of the dish, there are better solutions.

Ground Grouper Stick
Ground Grouper Cylinder

The next dish was the best of the evening. Ground grouper meat  cylinder. It was delicious. A hint of mint and a thick sauce elevated the dish. I could not believe that grouper would taste so good. Another interesting aspect of the dish were the white flakes served on top of the cylinder. IT was fried skin. Simply delicious! As my cousin observed, I have always been a skin-enthusiast, so my verdict was to be expected.

Stuffed Cabbage
Stuffed Cabbage

The third dish was an inventive remake of a Greek traditional dish: “Stuffed cabbage”. The difference being that in the traditional dish the stuffing is pork meat, whereas chef Lazarou stuffed the cabbage with a tasty seafood mix that was not cohesive. The primary taste I could make out was that of shrimp, both in the stuffing and in the sauce.

The dish had some foam on top. It tasted of dill and lemon. I personally do not like foams, but this one was good. The fact however remains, that the foam always destryes the visual impression of the dish.

It is also interesting to note that chef Lazarou was not a fan of foams and similar gimmicks, but obviously he surrendered to the wave of customer demand. How can you go to a Michelin – starred restaurant and not be bombarded with foamy dishes?  What are you going to say to your friends, if there is no foam on the food?

The fourth dish was the less memorable of all, and as it were submerged under a thich layer of foam, there is no photo to be shown.

It was John Dory was a porcini mushroom sauce, chick peas and a parmesan foam. I liked the fish, but the dish overall did not come together for me.

Orange Cake

We enjoyed the dishes with a superb white wined from Santorini, Greece: Asyrtico Sigalas 2013.

Three deserts ended the dinner. My favourite was the Orange Cake. Simply because to create a sirupy cake with balance is difficult. This was almost perfect. And the accompanying vanilla ice cream was delicious.

Overall it was an excellent dinner. Next time though, I will ask for my dishes to have no foam!!!!

Stuffed tomatoes and peppers with minced meat and pig’s skin – Ντοματες και πιπεριες γεμιστες με κιμα

Some time ago I wrote about a dish that is highly satisfying: peppers stuffed with rice.

Tomatoes and Peppers ready to be stuffed
Tomatoes and Peppers ready to be stuffed

Today I write about a variation of the dish: I added tomatoes to the peppers, and the filling is minced beef and diced pig’s skin.

Pig's Skin
Pig’s Skin

The magic ingredient of the filling is pig’s skin. It gives flavour and texture to the filling.

I fry it before I mix it with the meat.

Filling with minced beef, pig's skin and bulgur wheat
Filling with minced beef, pig’s skin and bulgur wheat

I add to the mix some bulgur wheat to absorb the moisture, dill weed, dry and fresh onions and parsely.

Ready to bake
Ready to bake

After stuffing the peppers and tomatoes, I bake in 220 C for 50 minutes.

Baked and ready to serve
Baked and ready to serve

This dish is never served hot. It needs to rest for at least one hour before serving.

Served
Served

Delicious homemade bread is a flavour and pleasure booster, so here it is.

Homemade bread
Homemade bread

And a nice improvised pudding to complete a good meal, and seal a good English-Greek get together.

Pudding
Improvised Pudding

Asta la vista Compañeros!

Greater Amberjack Duo – Μαγιατικο εις Διπλουν

fishdb-magiatiko

Today I proudly present one of my favourite fishes, the Greater Amberjack (Seriola dumerilli), cooked in two ways.

Amberjack thick slices
Amberjack thick slices

The first way is “boiled” in olive oil and vegetables.

The second way is grilled.

In both ways the fish must be sliced in thick slices. This is the key to the success of both ways. And the factor that requires cooking skills.

fish3_detail

Make sure there is no blood left in the flesh and that the spinal cord of the fish has been removed prior to cooking.

stew1

The “boiled” way comes from the Greek islands. I present a variance of the traditional way.

Place a lot of olive oil in a deep pan and add cherry tomatoes, dry onions, and celery. Add coarse salt and pepper and bring to a moderate boil, in which tiny bubbles are formed but do not burst quickly. After most of the liquids have been evaporated, which will take approximately one hour, add the fish slices.

fish2

Let the fish cook in the oil until it turns white. Do not turn. This should take approximatley one hour. While cooking, make sure that the bubbles remain very small and do not burst in quick succession.

served1

After the fish is cooked, remove from the pan and let it rest for thirty minutes. While the fish is resting, add zucchinis in the pan and cook for approximately half an hour.

zucchini

If you feel like it, you may add some thin pasta in the oil that has been infused with the fish and vegetable stock.

served_detail

If the fish is properly cooked, it is extremely soft and juicy. The low temperature has not hardened its flesh. For me it is one of the most original ways to cook fresh fish.

fish3

On the other end of the temperature spectrum is the grill. The punishing heat is the greatest enemy of the fish. This is where the skill is required. To grill the thick slice of amberjack so that it is crusty on the outside and juicy and delicious on the inside. I add a little salt and pepper and coat the slice in olive oil prior to placing it on the ultra hot grill.

fish4

Once the fish is cooked, remove from the grill and serve immediately.  Add a little bit of olive oil and a few drops of lemon. I am very careful with the lemon because it hardens the flesh and destroys the taste when used without moderation.

Enjoy both dishes with a robust white wine.

Wilks Restaurant, Bristol upon Avon, United Kingdom

Bristol, UK
Bristol, UK

“Britain was a major player in the transatlantic slave trade. British ships carried 2,600,000 enslaved Africans in the 18th century to the Caribbean and the Americas. London was the leading British slaving port in the 17th century, with control over the trade until 1698. Bristol overtook London in the 1730s, and Liverpool overtook Bristol in the 1740s. ” (1)

I know, I know, I meant to write a restaurant review, and I cannot avoid becoming historical and all.

Aston Martin, Bristol UK
V8 Aston Martin Vantage

Driving a V8 Aston Martin Vantage, the trip to Bristol cannot be tiring. As a matter of fact, you don’t want it to end.

“Powered by the lightweight, compact 4.7ltr engine, V8 Vantage delivers a broad spread of effortless, exploitable performance. Mounted low and as far back in the chassis as possible Vantage’s centre of gravity is close to the road for supreme balance and handling.  Producing 426PS of peak power and 470Nm of torque, V8 Vantage sprints from 0-62mph in just 4.9secs.” (2)

I know, I know, this is meant to be a restaurant review, and I am starting to rant about cars. (Thank you Santa Claus).

Bristol, UK
Bristol, UK

I visited Bristol in November 2013, because my cousin was at the University of Bristol until December. On the occasion we went to have lunch at Wilks Restaurant, some 20 minutes walk from city centre.

I know, I know, this is not meant to be anything but a restaurant review, not my family and its members.

Wilks Restaurant, Bristol
Wilks Restaurant, Bristol

In any case, it is immaterial how we actually made it to the restaurant. But we made it, and we were one minute early! So we went in.

Wilks Restaurant, Amuse Bouche
Wilks Restaurant, Amuse Bouche

The amuse bouche was goat creamy cheese  and an onion concoction with olives and sardines. Botht asty, but the goat cheese was the winner.

Wilks Restaurant, Scallops
Wilks Restaurant, Scallops

Scallops from the Atlantic Oceaan. Fresh and perfectly cooked.

Wilks Restaurant, Truffle Risotto
Wilks Restaurant, Truffle Risotto

Truffle Risotto. Tasty and creamy!

Wilks Restaurant, Hake with Artichokes
Wilks Restaurant,Turbot Filet

Wild turbot fillet ~ parmesan gnocchi, artichokes & saute of fresh chanterelles, wild mushroom emulsion.

Wilks Restaurant, Aged Beef Tenderloin
Wilks Restaurant, Dry Aged Beef  Sirloin

Dry aged west country beef sirloin ~ caramelised onions, trompettes & spinach, black garlic & red wine jus

Wilks Restaurant, Selection of Cheeses
Wilks Restaurant, Selection of Cheeses

A selection of Cheeses to finish the meal.

Wilks is a relatively new restaurant, one year old. But they are on the right track to achieve a lot.

I liked the food, the service, the value for money ratio.

It did not come to me as a surprise that they have already received their first Michelin Star. More could be on their way.

Street Art, Bristol UK
Street Art, Bristol UK

On our way back to the city center, we had the opportunity to enjoy some of the famous Bristol Street Art.

Aston Martin, Bristol UK
Aston Martin, Bristol UK

It is time to get back to London. The beautiful V8 Vantage is patiently waiting to deliver effortless performance. Lets hit the road baby!

And thank you Wilks, thank you JM!

Merry Christmas!

Sources

1. Portcities Bristol

2. Aston Martin

Crispy Stuffed Zucchini Flowers

With considerable delay, I publish today one of the absolute delicacies: crispy stuffed zucchini flowers.

Zucchini flowers to die for!
Zucchini flowers to die for!

It is November, Christmas is coming, and I dream of the Summer and its delicacies!

The whole secret is to have the super freshest of zucchini, cut from the vegetable garden a split second ago!

Time is important, in case you have not noticed, not only in what we do, but also in how we prepare our food. 

Mizythra with coriander and mint
Myzithra with coriander and mint

I stuff the flowers with a soft white cheese mix. I use myzithra from Crete, add salt and pepper and some chopped coriander and mint.

Fresh ricotta would also have been perfect for the dish.

Dusted with flour
Dusted with flour

After stuffing the flowers I dip them in water and dust them with flour before dipping into the batter mix.

Bubbly batter does it!
Bubbly batter does it!

The batter has to be full of bubbles! A bubbly batter does it! Stir vigorously until you have the bubbles that will give lightness to the batter.

Crispy stuffed zucchini flowers served
Crispy stuffed zucchini flowers served

Served and ready to be enjoyed!

Crispy stuffed zucchini flower sliced and ready to be enjoyed - please use your hands!!!
Crispy stuffed zucchini flower sliced and ready to be enjoyed – please use your hands!!!

I slice them in two halves with a knife, and subsequently eat them with my hands. Totally different sensation.

sliced2

I do not know about you, but I am good for a little more!

Restaurant “Thalassa mou”, Alyki, Paros, Greece

During a short visit to Paros, I visited a restaurant for the first time.

It is a restaurant by the breaking wave on the edge of Aiyki, in the southwestern corner of the island.

By the breaking wave
By the breaking wave

The restaurant opened last year and operates during the – unfortunately short – tourist season of Paros, from late May to late September.

It is owned and operated by a couple.

The husband is a chef trained in France, and the wife runs the front of the house.

Appetizers presented as tapas
Appetizers presented as tapas

The menu is local food, prepared and presented in a beautiful and “modern” way.

It not only tastes good, it looks good as well!

Tuna carpaccio with avocado
Tuna carpaccio with avocado

They have a seven small dishes appetizer plate that is a must. Eggplant salad, marinated anchovies, chick peas, octopus in wine, fava bean salad, taramossalata (egg roe dip) and a delicious cold tomato soup.

The highlight of the appetizers is a small tuna carpaccio with avocado and mint.

Cheese fritters
Cheese fritters

The cheese fritters are made with local fresh cheese and are delicious!

Rabbit with lardon, and mushrooms, served with tagliatelle
Rabbit with lardons, and mushrooms, served with tagliatelle

I was curious how rabbit would taste in a hot day, and was justified in taking the dish. Absolutely delicious, juicy and gamey local rabbit, in a light sauce with lardons to die for, parmesan cheese and tagliatelle al dente.

One thing is for sure. I will visit them again!

mmm

Ristorante Al Covo, Venice, Italy

The “Ristorante Al Covo” is in Castello, near the Hotel Gabrielli, no more than 15 minutes walk from St. Mark’s Square.

This review is long overdue, as I had it prepared and filed as a draft, only to forget it.

Now that I recovered it from the archive, I want to share it, if only for the reason that it is an excellent choice to dine in Venice.

Ristorante Al Covo

My first dish was “Scampi Crudi – Raw crayfish”.

It was served as it came out of the water, without the shell, with shredded cucumber, lemon dill, olive oil.

Scampi Crudi – Raw crayfish – Ristorante Al Covo

…and a big big leaf of basil!

Scampi crudi – Raw crayfish – Ristorante Al Covo

My second dish was Baccala Batagin, a dish made with salted cod (baccala) cooked in the oven with sliced potatoes, prunes and rosemary. After being cooked, a s plash of tomato sauce is put on top and a dash of olive oil.

Baccala “Batagin”, Ristorante Al Covo
 
In addition, I spotted pistacchio nuts sprinkled over the tomato sauce, and lemon dill.
The atmosphere of the restaurant is wonderful, because the clientele are mostly Venetians who enjoy good food.
Overall, a highly satisfactory experience, which I hope I will have sometime again!
Baccala “Batagin” detail – Ristorante Al Covo