Festive Menu: Take One

Due to the extreme pressure exerted on me by the atelier members, I present today “Take One” of the festive menu, to get the dialog and exchange of ideas started. This is a conceptual presentation, there are no real photos of the dishes.

First Dish

The first dish is the opening of the experience. It has to be adventourus, but at the same time familiar, so it does not have to fight the distance.

My choice is trout tartar, served with pears marinated in Greek Tsipouro (grappa) and leaks confit.  

Main Dish

The main dish is always a big gamble, as you have ot meet and excced the expectations that were (hopefully) created from the first dish.

I propose a Millefeuille of roast pork leg with chestnuts, prunes, green and red gabbage and craked wheat.

The leafs are paper thin slices of the leg, the cream is made of all the ingredients listed above. It is served with caramelized carrots and potatoes. 

Desert

My favourite is a Chocolate and Chestnut charlotte.

This is it for now folks, the ball is over to you!

Cannelloni with beef and parmesan

In rather damp and chilly weather conditions, you need warm and rich dishes to support you. One of them is cannelloni with beef and parmesan. Cannelloni are time consuming to fill, but the reward for the patient cook is the splendid combination of the filling with the pasta shell, which is a quite different experience from eating pasta.

I do not use ground meat when I can, as I do not like the texture. Instead, I prepare a rich ragu and then break it into threads. The best cust is the short plate.

I separate the meat from the bones, and cook in a big pot with carrots, onions and peppers.

After three hours, I take off the heat and let it cool off. Once it is cool, I cut it in chunks and then break the chunks in threads.

I place the meat in a shallow pot and then add the boiled mashed vegetables, a bit of tomato paste and olive oil to season, and leave to simmer for 30 minutes in medium heat.

We are now ready to fill the cannelloni.

On top I prefer to put a rich tomato sauce, with all the juices of the meat, and grated parmesan.

Place in a very hot oven for 15 minutes and you have a wonderful meal.

With this dish you need a red wine with body. Enjoy it!

Joselito – Bellota Ham

The picture that you see is not a fake. You see pigs with black feet (pata negra) enjoying the environment of woods and waters in Spain) in one of the farms of Joselito, may be the most famous producer of bellota (acorn fed) ham. The leg is cured for a period ranging from 2 to 4 years and the whole process transforms the flesh of the acorn fed pig into a symphony of flavours. In addition, due to the chemical composition of acorns, the fat of the pig is transformed into an olive oil tasting substance.

There is no way to relay the whole experience, one has to taste this beautiful piece of cured meat. During my recent visit to Munich, Manolis welcomed me with a whole leg of Joselito’s bellota ham. This post is dedicated to Manolis and Joselito.

I start with the presentation of the whole leg on its stand, as presented to me upon my entry in Manolis’ dining room. Next to it, stands a bottle of rioja, “Castillo Ygay”, of 1978. The little card has a poem of Manolis:

“Το συντεκνο ο Μανωλιος

για να καλωσορισει

τον Χοσελιτο εστειλε

να τον προυπαντησει”

(liberally translated this means:

Preparing to  welcome his brother,

Manolis has sent Joselito

to greet him)

The task of slicing is what can destroy or glorify the meat. The thinner the slice, the bigger is the surface exposed to the air, thus more aromas are released. But the most important seems to me is the marbling of the meat, these thin translucent lines of  fat that give to the meat the unique flavor. Although the initial treatment of the leg is in a mix of salt and herbs, the meat is not salty at all! This is the first sign of quality.

Eating Joselito ham is a long process, that requires very good wine, that can accept the role of the second violin, as the first violin and the conductor of the orchestra is unquestionably, Joselito! The experience grows on you as you overcome the shock of the first tasting. I have tasted Joselito now since 2003, and it is always a revelation. The aftertaste is long and complex. This requires a slow eating process, long pauses to enjoy, to close your eyes, to relax and retreat into the world of the senses!

The first day’s session lasted almost 6 hours, and as you can see it had a noticeable  impact on the leg.

When you see the meat close up, you will be impressed by the thick ruby color. Another important feature of bellota ham, is that it sweats, i.e. it releases its fat gradually and steadily once it is cut.

The hard work of day 1 required a second wine, which was a native Austrian red, with the impressive name “Admiral”, produced by Poeckl, in 1999.

The hard work with Joselito work continued on day 2 and the results are noticeable.

After such a wonderful experience, you are no longer a mere mortal, but an angel. May be not as beautiful as the Angel created by Manolis’s daughter, Athina, but nevertheless an Angel!

"Angel", by Athina Payatakis

Thank you Manolis, thank you Marion, thank you Athina, for this wonderful treat!

Thank you little acorn fed piggy! You are an angel too!

Thank you Jose Gomez, for producing the ham!

Restaurant Guth, Lauterach, Bregenz, Austria

“Lets go  and have a nice meal, this is no weather for being outdoors”, said Manolis, when the snow started accumulating on the ground and the visibility was reduced to less than 50 meters. You have seen the pictures in the “white” post, now its time to get down to the eating and drinking business.

Restaurant Guth was around the corner, at the outskirts of Bregenz by lake Constance in the Austrian – German borders. In the map below, you can see Bregenz in the lowest right side of the lake.

Chef Thomas Scheucher is one of the most creative Austrian chefs and has created a modern environment to serve his creations.

The building is new, and the outside is austere in style. The inside is warm and with a beautiful garden view.

The chef’s menu was our choice, but Manolis asked for a swap. Instead of the soup, he asked for the tripe. Such a request would not be honoured in France, where you would be asked to order it as extra. Not in friendly, hospitable Austria, where the request was accepted with a smile.

The amuse bouche was a slice of foie with brioche and quince and pear marmalade, accompanied by scallop’s and musel’s hot beverage. Exquisite and multilayered in taste and flavours, this was one of the best amuse I have ever tasted! The philosppher of Atelier will offer his own views while he comments on the post, so I will not try to interpet him, which would in any case be sacrilegious!

Marinated tuna with horseradish mousse, accompanied by a pike croquette served on cubes of beetroot. The tuna was soft and sweet, the horseradish perfectly accompanied the oily flesh, while the croquette was like solid foam (a contradiction of terms and senses).

Sauteed tripe with herbs of the nearby forest. Never had this dish before, and it was worth the wait of so many years! A complete game with the senses this one, thin threads of tripe enveloped in the aromas of the forest, melt in the mouth and bless it with eternal memories of gastronomic pleasures.

Zander fillet with octopus, on a bed of fresh green beans. The dish of extreme lightness, attempted to supplement the memory of the mighty tripe with a presence of indelible subtlety and kindness to the palate.

Free-range beef fillet with mushrooms, celery and semolina crack dumplings (knoedel). The ultimate in meaty texture and taste, medium to rare, the knife was practically not needed to cut through this velvety flesh!

Hot chocolate desert, with fried bananas and bitter sweet foam. The perfect conclusion to a perfect meal. It took the chef almost 20 minutes to prepare the cylinders of delight, and was well worth it!

In the basement, you can find another source of pleasures, the wine cellar. We were served excellent austrian wines to accompany the dishes. More on austrian wines will come in a future post, they are the big discovery of the year for me!

Conclusion: When you get a chance, visit Guth, you will thank me for that!

P.S. For the culturally oriented, there is fantastic Opera Festival during the summer in Bregenz. Just imagine the immense combination of a beautiful opera performance accompanied by a meal in Restaurant Guth…..

P.S.2 Thank you Manoli for opening guth’s door for me!

P.S.3 Thank you Nature, for creating the unique Christmas images on the last day of November in the year of 2009.

P.S4 Thank you Romania, for having your National Day on the 1st December, which gave me the opportunity to visit Manolis and Guth and…

P.S5 At the time of the visit, the restaurant was recommended by the Michelin Red Guide as “one star”.

Mackerel slow-cooked with garlic, red peppers and parsley – Σκουμπρι με σκορδο, κοκκινη πιπερια και μαιντανο

Today I wanted to eat fish and so I went to find my good fishmonger. One of my buys was super-fresh mackerel, which is one of my favorite fishes.

Σημερα το τραπεζι εχει ψαρακι, που το εχω λαχταρησει λογω ταξιδιων στα μερη που εχει μονο γουρουνακια, κοτοπουλακια και αρνακια με μοσχαρακια! Πηγα λοιπον στον καλο μου τον ψαρα στην Ραφηνα και αναμεσα στα αλλα πηρα φρεσκωτατα σκουμπρια (οταν τα εζουληξα ηταν σφιχτοτερα και απο το ….), που ειναι απο τα αγαπημενα μου ψαρακια.

I decided to cook it in a primitive way. A child can do it. Here it goes.

Αποφασισα να το μαγειρεψω με ενα πρωτολειο τροπο, τοσο ευκολο που και ενα παιδι μπορει να το κανει. Ξεκιναμε λοιπον. Χρειαζομαστε αφθονο σκορδο, κοκκινες πιπεριες, και ελαιολαδο σεε να μεγαλο τηγανι (με βαθυ πατο). Ψιλοκοβουμε τα σκορδα και τις πιπεριες, και μαραινουμε σε μετρια φωτια.

Chop plenty of garlic, and dice red peppers. Throw them in a pan with a touch of olive oil, in medium heat.

After the juices have started running and the aromas of garlic start to be released, lower the heat to low and place the fish on the “bed” of peppers and garlic. The belly of the fish must be down, touching the “bed”.

Αφου μαραθουνε λιγο οι πιπεριες και αρχισουν να αναδυονται τα αρωματα απο το σκορδο, βαζουμε τα ψαρακαι στο τηγανι με την κοιλια να ακουμπα στο “κρεββατακι” με τα σκορδα και τις πιπεριες. Χαμηλωνουμε τη φωτια στο “χαμηλο” (στην κλιμακα του 1-10 να ειναι το πολυ στο 3).

The last step is to add chopped parsley on top of the fish.

Προσθετουμε πανω απο τα ψαρακια σαν τελευταιο βημα και ψιλοκομμενο μαιντανο.

The fish needs about 30 minutes in low heat to be cooked. This is slow-cooking at its best.

Τα ψαρακια χρειαζονται περιπου 30 λεπτα για να γινουν σε αυτη τη χαμηλη φωτια. Ηπια μαγειρικη στην καλυτερη εκφραση της! Καθως τα ψαρακια μαγειρευονται ηπιως, ετοιμαζουμε το “κρεββατακι” του πιατου, που ειναι πατατες τηγανισμενες ηπιως σε ελαιολαδο.

While the fish is cooking, we prepare the real “bed” of the dish, which is sliced potatoes slow-fried in olive oil.

We are now ready to serve the fish on top of the potato slice.

Και τωρα ειμαστε ετοιμοι για να σερβιρουμε το ψαρακι επι της πατατας.

The potatoes are crunchy, the fish is succulent and firm (as it is fresh), the garlic and the red pepper go very well together, the parsley tones down the rather strong ingredients. If you like you add flakes of chilli peppers on top for an extra punch. In any case, this is a delicious, easy to do dish that reminds everyone the virtues of slow cooking.

Οι πατατες ειναι τραγανιστες, η σαρκα του ψαριου ζουμερη και στητη, το σκορδο με τις πιπεριες παιζει ομορφα παιχνιδια, ενω ο μαιντανος ερχεται να τα καλμαρει ολα αυτα. Αν θελετε να ειστε προς την καυτερη πλευρα, προσθεστε και λιγο καυτερη πιπερια (μπουκοβο ας πουμε) και καλη ορεξη.

Restaurant Steirereck – Vienna, Austria

Introduction

Today I continue with my second gastronomic experience in Vienna, the first being in the Restaurant Vestibuel, reported a couple of days ago.

After a rather long meeting and under very wet conditions I found myself in the comfort and warmth of the Steirereck Restaurant in the middle of Stadtpark in Vienna.I selected it after reading the Michelin Red Guide, which has awarded two stars to the restaurant and is overall very enthusiastic about he place.inside

I will start with the food, and finish with the wines.

Part I: The Food

troutThe first bite came compliments of the chef. Trout with onion and yellow ginger. Succulent and full of aromas, a nice way to start the meal.

oysterGillardeau Oysters with buttermilk, glass pasta and pea shoots. This is the first dish in the 5-course set menu of the chef. The dish evolves around the oysters and magnifies their taste and flavors. A subtle and discrete dish.

oxheartBraised “Oxheart” Carrot with fillet, milt and marrow from Styrian beef. When I first read the menu, I thought that this was the heat of the ox! Wrong! Oxheart is a type of carrot, named so because its shape is like the heart of the ox! The braised carrot was served on top of raw Styrian beef fillet sliced paper-thin, and topped with a very light vinaigrette with marrow. The sticks you see on top are a type of rich bread with majoram.

breamGilt Head Bream and Moscardini, with black radish, rocket and parsley. The fish was pan fried to perfection, its fresh firm and juicy. And -as always- the skin was the best bite of all! The bream was served on top of a angel pasta bed and was accompanied by one moscardino in vinaigrette, and paper-thin black radish, which was delicious! I must say that I somehow lost the flavors of the moscardini, this iwas rather neutralized. But if you exclude that, everything else in the dish was perfect.

pheasantPheasant breast with chevril root, chanterelle mushrooms and yellow dates. What a wonderful dish! The breast was cooked to perfection, succulent, full of flavours, accompanied by the mushrooms and the dates. But the real taste booster was at the bottom. The skin of the bird was served with a semi sweet and savoury sauce, and this made the difference!

cheese

Cheese selected from a trolley with 60 different cheeses from Europe (mainly France and Italy). My only comment on the cheese is that next time I visit the restaurant, I will ask to have a five course cheese menu!

Part II: The Wines

I now come to the wines of the evening (wine maker, grape, year):

wine

1. Prager, Gruener Veltliner, 2008. Very young, fresh, a superb introduction to the menu.

2. Hiedler, Riesling, 2008.

3. Emmerich Knoll, Riesling Kellerberg, 2007, Smaragd. A knock-out! ? Never had a riesling like this, and I have already had quite many!  Intense fruity aroma, pepper aftertaste, full body! It stood up to the strongest and most mature cheeses like the best brunello! Totally unbelievable!

Epilogue

Value for money: We were a party of three, and the bill for all of this, which lasted exactly 4 hours with immaculate service, was 140 EURO per person.

Style of cooking: This is the type of cooking that builds on the tradition, but is not blinded by it. Especially in the oxheart dish, I felt that all the centuries of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, were somehow encapsulated in the dish. Hegel would be very proud of this dish, as it more or less excemplifies his concept of history as eternal progress through time.

P.S. At the time of the visit, the restaurant was recommended by the Michelin Red Guide as “two stars”.

Restaurant Vestibuel – Vienna Austria

This is a hot report, I have not even digested the food yet, but there is a burning desire inside me to report immediately, as if I could this way relay to you some of the magic I have experienced tonight in Vienna.

I am here for a meeting and I arrived shortly before dinner time. I stay in the historical center, and found the “Vestibul” from the Michelin Red Guide, where it has been awarded a “Bib Gourmand” citation, meaning best value for money.

In any case, I walked the one kilometer in a very mild night and arrived at the restaurant.

vienna1 003It is across the boulevard from the Parliament, in a quiet corner of the Burg Theater.

vienna1 009The decoration inside is 19th century “fin de siecle”, as you can see from the bar photograph.

I was greeted by Veronika Doppler, who kindly showed me to a smoking table near the bar.

The friendly waiter recommended the house specialty for a starter, and I obeyed.

lobster1The dish arrived in the hands of the chef, Christian Domschitz, who explained that it is crunchy gabbage, lightly treated in salt and vinegar, served to accompany the lobster in its butter sauce. This was a first course, and it had in it almost half a lobster! Tender, juicy, divine!

This dish is a poem to the contrast of textures and the divinity of the lobster’s fragile mortal flesh.

If mortality is so beautiful, I am happy to be mortal!

marrow1The main course was my choice. black truffle with beef marrow, served on a “sponge” of crispy white bread. This is beyond description! I have never before tasted such a sweet, buttery substance, that melts in your mouth with overpowering you, while at the same time the truffle infuses the liquid with all the aromas of the woods.

This orgy of a dish was accompanied by a fiery red wine made by Triebauer.

dark1And now the dessert! Dark chocolate praline with campari sauce in the middle, accompanied by blood orange sorbet on the left and orange grog on the right.

The grog was mildly hot, and contrasted beautifully the cold sorbet.

Mamma mia!

vestibul1Veronika, Christian, thank you!

I will be back!

Mit herzlichen gruessen!

P.S. At the time of the visit, the restaurant was recommended by the Michelin Red Guide as “petit gourmand”.

Timbale a la Greque

servedToday I have prepared a dish that belongs to the family of Italian timbale, but I have changed the ingredients to a considerable degree. The overall concept remains the same. The timbale is a big stuffed drum. What has inside varies, as well as its skin. zucchini

I decided to use eggplants and zucchini in the stuffing, combined with penne pasta and ground pork meat. Here it goes.

I got the round zucchinis that I like very much and fantastic bell shaped eggplants and fried them in olive oil.

detail_meat_startFor the meat I got a nice chunk from the upper leg, that had some fat in it. I then browned the meat with onions, one red and one green pepper.After browning, I added tomato paste and two chopped fresh tomatoes.

detail_meatI let the meat to simmer in low heat for one hour.

eggplants_zucchini_detailAfter frying the vegetables, I let them rest on paper, while I prepare the dough for the skin of the timbale. I made it like a rich bread, in order to adsorb all the juices of the vegetables and the meat without becoming excessively soft.

In parallel, I prepare the penne “al dente” so that they do not disintegrate when they cook inside the timbale.

We are now ready to integrate and compose.

Lay the dough on a bell shaped baking dish and work it with your hand so that it covers most of the surface of the dish. I added olive oil and sesame seeds in the dish prior to spreading the dough.

step-1Add the vegetables and slices of parmesan cheese.

step-2Add the penne.

step-3Add the meat and make sure you have at least 2 centimeters to the rim of the dish, as the dough will expand in baking.

ready-to-bakeAdd a layer of dough at the top, spread egg all over to give it a nice golden color, and bake in the oven for one hour, in 250 degrees centigrade. Stick a nice in the timbale a couple if times, to let the steam out.

baked-and-servedOnce baked, let it rest for 15 minutes, then serve on a round dish. A very sharp knife is required when serving.

grand_detailLet the timbale warm your heart with its harmony of smells and tastes!

Leek pie – Πρασοπιττα

I was inspired to prepare a leek pie after I saw some beautiful leeks in the market. Here it goes.

leeksSlice them as thin as possible and brown them in olive oil.

pancettaAdd finely chopped cured pancetta (if you do not have it, bacon will do).

mixAdd a couple of finely chopped dry onions and parseley to colour and add taste, coarse sea salt and pepper.

mix-with-yogurtRemove from the heat and let it rest and cool. Add a couple of eggs and a quarter of a kilo of strained yoghourt.

Grate two large apples and add to the mix.Add a spoonful of cracked wheat, and 100 grams of parmesan.

bakedBake in 200 degrees centigrade for one hour.

servedServe and enjoy.

detail

It is a simple, easy to do pie, but the result I am sure will satisfy you and your guests in the table.

Beef and Pork Stew with dry white beans

Today’s  dish is a stew with dry white beans.

The meat in the stew is beef and pork. pork

I dice the meat and brown it with olive oil.

pork_beef_sauteedIn the same pan I then put sliced green peppers, onions, parsley and celery.

peppersI put the peppers alone at first, and then add the other ingredients.

peppers_onions_celery_parslWhile all of this is taking place, dry white beans from the northern city of Drama are boiling in water.

white_beansWhen the peppers, and onions are soft, I add the meat and half a bottle of good red wine, some slat, pepper and cover the pot. The meat must now cook in medium to low heat for at least one hour.

meat_readyWhile the meat is slowly cooking, I put half of the beans in a mixer and puree them. I spread  them in a baking tray with olive oil.

pureeOn top I add the rest of the beans, and spread them evenly. I add a lot of juice from the stew and bake for one hour in 200 degrees centigrade. To avoid dehydration of the beans, in the first thirty minutes cover the tray with aluminum foil.

beans_readyTo serve, cut a rectangle of the beans and serve the meat next to it.

servedWhat I really like about the dish is the combination of textures in the beans, accompanied by the aromas of the meat stew. IMG_1871

The particular beans I used in the dish are strong in flavor, almost to the point of the bean paste tasting like chestnuts! IMG_1870To accompany the dish, as a matter of fact to announce it, I prepared zucchini rolls with pastirma. Easy peasyFry sliced zucchini in olive oil and dry in kitchen paper.

zucchiniSlice pastirma very thinly. To avoid overpowering the zucchini with the pastirma, cut the slices very thin and short.

pastirmaTake a zucchini slice, add some pastirma, about one third of its length should be covered by the pastirma slice, roll it up and let it rest on the serving dish.

appetizerThese little bites are dynamite! I was quite surprised by the harmonious collaboration of the gentle soft and almost unspoken zucchini with the explosive pastirma!

And do not forget a good red wine to accompany the dish, I would recommend a Xinomavro from Northern Greece.

Salve!