Juan Mari Arzak and his neighbors (in Greek) – Ο Juan Mari Arzak και οι γείτονες

Ο Juan Mari Arzak είναι ένας από τους πιο σημαντικούς σύγχρονους μάγειρες. Έχει τρία αστέρια Michelin κάθε χρόνο συνέχεια από το 1989. Το εστιατόριο του είναι μια οικογενειακή επιχείρηση από το 1887. Τον Δεκέμβριο του 2003 είχα την ευκαιρία να επισκεφθώ το εστιατόριο  του στο San Sebastian, στη χώρα των Βάσκων.

Ομολογώ ότι είχα μεγάλη αγωνία. Θα πήγαινα για πρώτη φορά σε τριάστερο εστιατόριο.

Ευτυχώς στο διπλανό τραπέζι ήταν ένα ζευγάρι από τη Μαδρίτη και πιάσαμε κουβέντα οπότε έσπασε η ένταση. Όπως συνηθίζεται, στα εστιατόρια αυτά συνήθως δεν παραγγέλνεις α λα καρτ, αλλά σου προσφέρουν το μενού που έχει ετοιμάσει ο μάγειρας. Έτσι έκανα κι εγώ, έτσι και οι διπλανοί.

Καθώς λοιπόν άρχισε η διαδικασία, και μετά από δύο ποτήρια κρασί, χαλάρωσα και μπόρεσα να σηκώσω το κεφάλι και να αρχίσω να παρατηρώ την πελατεία. Εκείνο που μου έκανε εντύπωση είναι ότι οι περισσότεροι πελάτες ήταν ντυμένοι απλά, άνδρες και γυναίκες, πολλοί είχανε έρθει με τα παιδιά τους, και η ατμόσφαιρα ήτανε περισσότερο ατμόσφαιρα του εστιατορίου της γειτονιάς, παρά του τριάστερου εστιατορίου πολυτελείας. Ηλικιακά η πελατεία ήτανε κατά μέσο όρο κάτω από τα 40.

Juan Mari Arzak – Photo courtesy of Restaurante Arzak

Κάποια στιγμή παρουσιάζεται στο τραπέζι και ο ίδιος ο μάγειρας.  Πιάσαμε την κουβέντα με την βοήθεια των διπλανών, γιατί ο Arzak δεν μιλάει αγγλικά, κι εγώ δεν μιλάω ισπανικά. Αφού συστηθήκαμε και με ρώτησε αν μου αρέσει το φαγητό, δεν μπόρεσα να κρατηθώ και του είπα ότι βλέποντας την πελατεία έχω την αίσθηση ότι είναι οι γείτονες που ήρθανε να φάνε στο αγαπημένο τους εστιατόριο.

«Μα βέβαια, έτσι είναι»,   μου απάντησε ο μάγειρας, «τους περισσότερους τους ξέρω χρόνια τώρα, και τις οικογένειες τους, εγώ γι΄ αυτούς μαγειρεύω, και είναι οι πιο αυστηροί κριτές μου.»

Σημειώνω ότι οι τιμές στο εστιατόριο ήτανε στο ένα τρίτο των τιμών ενός τριάστερου στο Παρίσι.

Juan Mari Arzak and his customers Photo credit: Nikos Moropoulos

Τα γράφω αυτά επειδή σε ένα κόσμο παγκοσμιοποίησης, και αποθέωσης της γκλαμουριάς και του συστήματος των υπέρλαμπρων αστεριών, ο Arzak παραμένει τοπικός, σε απόλυτη αρμονία με αυτό που οι Γάλλοι ονομάζουν  terroir, εντοπιότητα,  και τα αυτιά ανοιχτά στο τι θα πούνε οι γείτονες πελάτες του.

Αυτό δεν είναι τυχαίο. Οι Βάσκοι είναι μια κοινωνία με ισχυρούς δεσμούς μεταξύ των μελών της, με πολιτιστικές καταβολές αιώνων και διατηρούν τις παραδόσεις και τον πολιτισμό τους με θρησκευτική ευλάβεια. Το δε γαστρονομικό επίπεδο είναι πάρα πολύ υψηλό. Στη χώρα των Βάσκων θα φας καλά ακόμη και στο μικρότερο χωριό.

Έτσι ο Arzak μπορεί να παραμένει τοπικός και Βάσκος και περήφανος γι’ αυτό, σε ένα κόσμο που δείχνει να χάνει τον τοπικό χαρακτήρα στο όνομα της διάχυσης και ομογενοποίησης των πάντων.

Restaurant Boroa Jatetxea – Second visit

Back in 2015 I wrote about my first visit to the Boroa Jatetxea Restaurant. I write this following my second visit, which took place in November 2016.

The converted 15th century farmhouse is a wonderful building, spacious and “warm”. Do not let the rural setting fool you. This is a one Michelin star restaurant.

Íñigo Elorriaga, a Basque who lives in nearby Gernica (Guernica), is the chef in charge of innovation.

Jabier Gartzia Ruiz, a native of Gernica, is the head chef.

Oxtail capuccino. Boroa Jatetxea Restaurant, Basque Country. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Oxtail capuccino came as a welcome drink and it was delicious! Light enough not to overpower the senses, but still capable of providing flavor, it was smooth and warm.

Chorizo. Boroa Jatetxea Restaurant, Basque Country. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Chorizo is always welcome on my plate, especially this one that was accompanied by a sauce that had all the flavor of this wonderful sausage.

Eel. Boroa Jatetxea Restaurant, Basque Country. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Slightly smoked European eel and avocado in spiced quince veil over foie gras with citric aroma was my starter. An absolute winner, a dish I could again and again without ever getting bored.

Eel. Boroa Jatetxea Restaurant, Basque Country. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

This is what great cooking is all about.

Cod tasting. Boroa Jatetxea Restaurant, Basque Country. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Cod tasting (grilled, vizcaina and pil pil) was my main course. I have a special devotion to salt cod and it cannot get any better than what I taste in Basque Country.

The dish has three pieces, wach cooked in a different way.

Cod tasting – Pil Pil. Boroa Jatetxea Restaurant, Basque Country. Photo: Nikos Moropoulo

The first is pil-pil, which is a traditional Basque preparation. The sauce is an emulsion of olive oil and the cod’s juices.

Cod tasting – Vizcaina. Boroa Jatetxea Restaurant, Basque Country. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

The second piece is “vizcaina”, another local preparation, with a thich red sauce. The purists say that the sauce should be made only with red peppers, that is without any tomatoes. Today it is more often than not that you find a tomato thrown in the sauce.

Cod tasting – grilled. Boroa Jatetxea Restaurant, Basque Country. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

The last preparation is grilled. This is a “nowhere to hide” preparation. The smallest fault of the fish will reveal itself on the grill, as well as the cook’s ability to maintain all the juices and aromas of salt cod’s most expensive cut.

Fruits of the forest sweet. Boroa Jatetxea Restaurant, Basque Country. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Raspberry, yogurt and Dulcey junket Dulcey crumble, raspberry and yogurt junket, creamy yogurt, different Dulcey textures and raspberry meringue was my desert.

The desert was recommended to me by the propritetor, Mª Asun Ibarrondo, and I obliged

The desert was a harmony of tastes and textures and aromas, and by the time I finished it I could only think of how hard it would be to improve on such a finish to a wonderful meal.

 

 

 

Sea Urchin Egg Risotto: a dish by Lefteris Lazarou – Ριζότο με αυγά αχινού: ένα πιάτο του Λευτέρη Λαζάρου

Η καλή μαγειρική είναι εκείνη που στοχεύει σε κάτι που το ξέρει καλά  και το πετυχαίνει πάντα. Καλή μαγειρική είναι η κουζίνα της γιαγιάς, της μαμάς, της Λωξάντρας, και πάει λέγοντας. Οι αποτυχίες στην καλή μαγειρική είναι λίγες.

Good cooking aims always at something that is well known and it achieves it all the times. This is the cooking of the grandmother, mother, and so on. Failures in this cooking are rare and nobody remembers them.

Η υψηλή μαγειρική (haute cuisine) είναι πάνω απ’ όλα τα άλλα η επιδίωξη του τέλειου, με την επίγνωση ότι κάτι τέτοιο είναι ανέφικτο. Οι αποτυχίες στην υψηλή μαγειρική είναι ο κανόνας. Είναι μια μάνα που τρώει τα παιδιά της. Για τον λόγο αυτό κάθε πιάτο υψηλής μαγειρικής είναι και μια ευκαιρία να πανηγυρίσουμε να αποθεώσουμε τον μάγειρα, και να σπεύσουμε να γευθούμε κάτι που είναι εφήμερο αλλά και παντοτινό. Γιατί η μνήμη του δεν σβήνει.

Haute cuisine, on the other hand, is the pursuit of perfection, with the full knowledge that it is unattainable. Failures are the rule in haute cuisine, it is a mother that kills its children. It is for this reason that every successful dish of haute cuisine makes me jubilant and I prooceed to taste it both in its transience and its eternity. Because its memory never fades away.

Σήμερα παρουσιάζω ένα πιάτο υψηλής μαγειρικής, που έφτιαξε ο Λευτέρης Λαζάρου και είχα την τύχη να γευθώ στο «Βαρούλκο».

Today I present a haute cuisine dish prepared by Chef Lefteris Lazarou in his “Varoulko” restaurant near Piraeus.

Varoulko Restaurant. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Από την περιγραφή φαίνεται το απλούστερο των απλών. Ριζότο με αυγά αχινού. Τα φαινόμενα όμως απατούν. Όσο απλούστερο πιάτο, τόσο μικρότερα τα περιθώρια για να κρυφτεί ο μάγειρας πίσω από εξωτικά υλικά και σύγχρονες τεχνικές όπως οι αφροί που κατακλύζουν τόσα και τόσα πιάτα. Ο μινιμαλισμός είναι ο χειρότερος εχθρός της «δήθεν» υψηλής μαγειρικής.

If one looks at the description of the dish, she might be misled by its simplicity. However, the simpler the dish, the less room the chef has to hide, behind exotic ingredients and modern techniques, like covering the dish with foam. Minimalism is the arch enemy of the supposedly haute cuisine.

‘Ας δούμε τις δυσκολίες του πιάτου.

Καταρχάς το ριζότο από μόνο του είναι μια πρόκληση. Το να φτιάξεις ένα καλό ριζότο είναι δύσκολο. Κυρίως επειδή πρέπει να σεβαστείς το ρύζι και να μην προσθέσεις τόσες άλλες γεύσεις που εξαφανίζουν τη γεύση του ρυζιού, ξεκινώντας από το απλούστερο όλων, το αλάτι, και συνεχίζοντας με τον ζωμό θαλασσινών και λαχανικών μέσα στον οποίο γίνεται το ριζότο. Πρόσφατα γεύθηκα ένα ριζότο σε γνωστό εστιατόριο, που είχε καταφέρει να εξαφανίσει τη γεύση του ρυζιού, χρησιμοποιώντας ένα ζωμό δυναμίτη που αναισθητοποιούσε τον ουρανίσκο.

Let us identify the difficulties of the dish.

To start with, making a risotto is a challenge by  itself, because you must respect the rice and not make it disappear behind other tastes like salt, and the broth. I recently tasted a risotto in a Michelin starred restaurant of Athens, in which the broth was so strong that had exterminated the taste of the rice.

Varoulko Restaurant – Sea urchin risotto. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Προσθέτοντας τα αυγά αχινού, αυτό το έδεσμα εδεσμάτων, καθιστά το πιάτο σχεδόν αδύνατο. Μιλάμε για την μεταξένια υφή τους, που τόσο εύκολα καταστρέφεται, μιλάμε για τα αρώματα που τόσο γρήγορα χάνονται στις γειτονιές των πιο ισχυρών.

Adding the sea urchin eggs, this delight of delights, makes the dish almost impossible. How are you ging to respect its texture and the flavor that is so subtle?

Όλα αυτά δεν αποτελούν εμπόδιο για τον Λευτέρη Λαζάρου, που στο πιάτο αυτό μεγαλουργεί.   Οι ισορροπίες γεύσεων που πετυχαίνει είναι αξιοθαύμαστες. Τα καταφέρνει να συνυπάρχουν αρμονικά το ρύζι με τον αχινό, διατηρώντας το καθένα την προσωπικότητα του.

None of these difficulties tames Chef Lazarou, who comes out victorious. He manages to add the sea urchin eggs to the dish in such a way that they retain their velvety texture and flavor.

Ο σεβασμός στην πρώτη ύλη είναι εντυπωσιακός. Προσέξτε τα αυγά του αχινού. Είναι τόσο «ζωντανά» και ακέραια σα να βγήκανε από το κέλυφος μόλις τώρα. Καμία σχέση με  τα ταλαιπωρημένα και διαλυμένα συναφή που μοιάζουν με αποτυχημένη καροτόσουπα.

Have a look at the photo below. The eggs are alive!

Varoulko Restaurant – Sea urchin risotto. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Το πιάτο είναι και χάρμα οφθαλμών. Το χρυσαφένιο ριζότο με την τερακότα του αχινού και τα φυλλαράκια άγριας ρόκας συνθέτουν μια «νεκρή φύση» αντάξια των μεγάλων καλλιτεχνών των ελληνιστικών χρόνων. Το φαντάζομαι σε ψηφιδωτό σε βίλλα του Ερκολάνο, δίπλα στην βιβλιοθήκη με τους παπύρους του Επίκουρου.

In addition to the taste, the dish is colorful and a delight of the eye. It could become a painting and decorate a villa near Ercolano.

Μια επίσκεψη στο «Βαρούλκο» αξίζει και μόνο για αυτό το πιάτο, που πανάξια ανήκει στην υψηλή Μεσογειακή κουζίνα.

Visit Varoulko to taste this dish, but call ahead, as it is not on the menu every day.

 

Varoulko Restaurant, Athens, Greece

I visited the restaurant recently, on the occasion of the visit to Athens of dear family members.

As it happens, within days the restaurant will be relocated to Piraeus, so the visit was also a farewell to the nice terrace with view of the Athenian Acropolis.

Sea bream with smoky eggplant
Sea bream with smoky eggplant

The Chef of Varoulko is Lefteris Lazarou, one of the best chefs in Greece. The restaurant specializes in seafood, and this is what we had in the menu they offered to us.

The first dish was “Sea bream fillets on a bed of smoky eggplant”. The fillets were adjoined to crispy bread, adding texture to the tasty dish. I liked the eggplant very much, but do not understand the point of adding so many mini ingredients on the dish.

Sea Bream - detail
Sea Bream – detail

I did not taste anything special in these “vegetable drops”. If the intention is to add color to the presentation of the dish, there are better solutions.

Ground Grouper Stick
Ground Grouper Cylinder

The next dish was the best of the evening. Ground grouper meat  cylinder. It was delicious. A hint of mint and a thick sauce elevated the dish. I could not believe that grouper would taste so good. Another interesting aspect of the dish were the white flakes served on top of the cylinder. IT was fried skin. Simply delicious! As my cousin observed, I have always been a skin-enthusiast, so my verdict was to be expected.

Stuffed Cabbage
Stuffed Cabbage

The third dish was an inventive remake of a Greek traditional dish: “Stuffed cabbage”. The difference being that in the traditional dish the stuffing is pork meat, whereas chef Lazarou stuffed the cabbage with a tasty seafood mix that was not cohesive. The primary taste I could make out was that of shrimp, both in the stuffing and in the sauce.

The dish had some foam on top. It tasted of dill and lemon. I personally do not like foams, but this one was good. The fact however remains, that the foam always destryes the visual impression of the dish.

It is also interesting to note that chef Lazarou was not a fan of foams and similar gimmicks, but obviously he surrendered to the wave of customer demand. How can you go to a Michelin – starred restaurant and not be bombarded with foamy dishes?  What are you going to say to your friends, if there is no foam on the food?

The fourth dish was the less memorable of all, and as it were submerged under a thich layer of foam, there is no photo to be shown.

It was John Dory was a porcini mushroom sauce, chick peas and a parmesan foam. I liked the fish, but the dish overall did not come together for me.

Orange Cake

We enjoyed the dishes with a superb white wined from Santorini, Greece: Asyrtico Sigalas 2013.

Three deserts ended the dinner. My favourite was the Orange Cake. Simply because to create a sirupy cake with balance is difficult. This was almost perfect. And the accompanying vanilla ice cream was delicious.

Overall it was an excellent dinner. Next time though, I will ask for my dishes to have no foam!!!!

Osteria da Fiore, Venice, Italy

In my visit to Venice back in October 2011 I had the opportunity to visit Osteria da Fiore, in San Polo.

Today I publish the delayed review, because the osteria is one of the best restaurants in Venice, and continues to carry with pride one Michelin Star.

Osteria da Fiore

The amuse bouche was crispy tiny shrimp (gamberetti) on a bed of white polenta. 

Amuse Bouche, Osteria Da Fiore

The first dish I tasted was a mixed raw seafood.

Carpaccio di tonno – Osteria da fiore

Misto crudo di carpaccio di tonno e scampi.

Scampi crudi - Osteria da Fiore

The Scampi were served on top of a creamy mix of fennel (finocchio) and fresh cheese.

Baccala mantecato – Osteria da fiore

The second dish I tasted was another appetizer, one of the trademarks of Venetian gastronomy: “Baccala  mantecato” (dried Atlantic cod, soaked, poached and whipped until mousse-like), served with bruschetta spiced with garlic.

Overall a perfect light lunch in a wonderful environment.

 

Osteria da Fiore, Venice, Italy

In my visit to Venice back in October 2011 I had the opportunity to visit Osteria da Fiore, in San Polo.

Today I publish the delayed review, because the osteria is one of the best restaurants in Venice, and continues to carry with pride one Michelin Star.

Osteria da Fiore

The amuse bouche was crispy tiny shrimp (gamberetti) on a bed of white polenta. 

Amuse Bouche, Osteria Da Fiore

The first dish I tasted was a mixed raw seafood.

Carpaccio di tonno – Osteria da fiore

Misto crudo di carpaccio di tonno e scampi.

Scampi crudi - Osteria da Fiore

The Scampi were served on top of a creamy mix of fennel (finocchio) and fresh cheese.

Baccala mantecato – Osteria da fiore

The second dish I tasted was another appetizer, one of the trademarks of Venetian gastronomy: “Baccala  mantecato” (dried Atlantic cod, soaked, poached and whipped until mousse-like), served with bruschetta spiced with garlic.

Overall a perfect light lunch in a wonderful environment.

 

Wilks Restaurant, Bristol upon Avon, United Kingdom

Bristol, UK
Bristol, UK

“Britain was a major player in the transatlantic slave trade. British ships carried 2,600,000 enslaved Africans in the 18th century to the Caribbean and the Americas. London was the leading British slaving port in the 17th century, with control over the trade until 1698. Bristol overtook London in the 1730s, and Liverpool overtook Bristol in the 1740s. ” (1)

I know, I know, I meant to write a restaurant review, and I cannot avoid becoming historical and all.

Aston Martin, Bristol UK
V8 Aston Martin Vantage

Driving a V8 Aston Martin Vantage, the trip to Bristol cannot be tiring. As a matter of fact, you don’t want it to end.

“Powered by the lightweight, compact 4.7ltr engine, V8 Vantage delivers a broad spread of effortless, exploitable performance. Mounted low and as far back in the chassis as possible Vantage’s centre of gravity is close to the road for supreme balance and handling.  Producing 426PS of peak power and 470Nm of torque, V8 Vantage sprints from 0-62mph in just 4.9secs.” (2)

I know, I know, this is meant to be a restaurant review, and I am starting to rant about cars. (Thank you Santa Claus).

Bristol, UK
Bristol, UK

I visited Bristol in November 2013, because my cousin was at the University of Bristol until December. On the occasion we went to have lunch at Wilks Restaurant, some 20 minutes walk from city centre.

I know, I know, this is not meant to be anything but a restaurant review, not my family and its members.

Wilks Restaurant, Bristol
Wilks Restaurant, Bristol

In any case, it is immaterial how we actually made it to the restaurant. But we made it, and we were one minute early! So we went in.

Wilks Restaurant, Amuse Bouche
Wilks Restaurant, Amuse Bouche

The amuse bouche was goat creamy cheese  and an onion concoction with olives and sardines. Botht asty, but the goat cheese was the winner.

Wilks Restaurant, Scallops
Wilks Restaurant, Scallops

Scallops from the Atlantic Oceaan. Fresh and perfectly cooked.

Wilks Restaurant, Truffle Risotto
Wilks Restaurant, Truffle Risotto

Truffle Risotto. Tasty and creamy!

Wilks Restaurant, Hake with Artichokes
Wilks Restaurant,Turbot Filet

Wild turbot fillet ~ parmesan gnocchi, artichokes & saute of fresh chanterelles, wild mushroom emulsion.

Wilks Restaurant, Aged Beef Tenderloin
Wilks Restaurant, Dry Aged Beef  Sirloin

Dry aged west country beef sirloin ~ caramelised onions, trompettes & spinach, black garlic & red wine jus

Wilks Restaurant, Selection of Cheeses
Wilks Restaurant, Selection of Cheeses

A selection of Cheeses to finish the meal.

Wilks is a relatively new restaurant, one year old. But they are on the right track to achieve a lot.

I liked the food, the service, the value for money ratio.

It did not come to me as a surprise that they have already received their first Michelin Star. More could be on their way.

Street Art, Bristol UK
Street Art, Bristol UK

On our way back to the city center, we had the opportunity to enjoy some of the famous Bristol Street Art.

Aston Martin, Bristol UK
Aston Martin, Bristol UK

It is time to get back to London. The beautiful V8 Vantage is patiently waiting to deliver effortless performance. Lets hit the road baby!

And thank you Wilks, thank you JM!

Merry Christmas!

Sources

1. Portcities Bristol

2. Aston Martin

The Restaurant of St John Hotel Chinatown, 1 Leicester Street, London

During my recent visit to London (October 2012) I had the opportunity to visit the restaurant in the St John Hotel in London’s Chinatown in two consecutive days.

The Hotel (and restaurant) is located a few meters away from Leicester Square and is easily accessible by all means of transportation.

The reason I went there has a name: Fergus Henderson.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London

Fergus Henderson is the “Nose to Tail” man. The simple principle that he pushed forward with his cooking is that when we slaughter an animal, it is a matter of respect but also of practicality, to eat all the bits. From nose to tail.

The Hotel in central London’s Leicester Square was opened in the Spring of 2011.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London: Johann Strauss Plaque

And it’s already a part of London history, housed in Manzi’s, the fish restaurant on the fringes of Chinatown that had been there forever, until suddenly it wasn’t.

Mr. Manzi one day sold everything, and headed off to Mone Carlo, giving to Fergus Henderson and his business partner Trevor Gulliver the opportunity to try out their hotel and restaurant concept in Central London.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London

The restaurant’s layout is simple with an open kitchen.

The staff is exceptional indeed. You feel right at home.

And what is most important for the weary traveller, is that the kitchen is open continuously from 12 noon to 12 midnight. So no matter when you can, you drop by and eat. This is exactly what I did on both days.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Devilled Pig’s Skin & Smoked Cod’s Roe

The two-day feast began with “Devilled Pig’s Skin & Smoked Cod’s Roe”.

When I saw it arriving to the table, I thought that this is not a dish, this is a sculpture. Nevertheless, I went ahead and enjoyed it.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Devilled Pig’s Skin & Smoked Cod’s Roe – detail

This is a dish that epitomizes the concept of the appetizer. Crunchy texture, accompanied by the creamy and flavorfull roe.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London: Black pudding and eggs

I absolutely loooooove black pudding, or boudin noir as it is known in France.

It is one of the humblest but terribly delicious dishes, a real tribute to blood and guts.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London: Black pudding and eggs – detail

It is only on the breakfast menu, but when I asked for it, at around 1730 hrs on a Friday afternoon, for what was a lunch and dinner meal after an exhaustive business meeting, it appeared miraculously in front of me. The restaurant’s maitr d’ hotel, a delightful lady, presented it with a glorious smile. The guys in the open kitchen were watching knowingly. I was in heaven! Needless to say, the divine pudding was “house” made.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Cuttlefish, Fennel & Green Sauce

Although Henderson is known as the “offal” man, St John Hotel have a menu with seafood items in addition to the “regular” meat and offal items. One of them was the cuttlefish with fennel and green sauce.

I was very curious to taste it, as cuttlefish is extremely light in flavour, and difficult in texture.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Cuttlefish, Fennel & Green Sauce – Detail

I was really lucky to taste this dish. Perfectly tender, full of flavor, and I had to ask for a spoon for the sauce.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Snail,s Duck Hearts & Lovage

The “Snails, Duck Hearts & Lovage”, sounded like a strange mix of diverse ingredients, but this was one more reason to taste it. And it worked!

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Snail,s Duck Hearts & Lovage – detail

I enjoyed the subtlety of the snails, and the robustness of the heart’s texture. The rather big chunks of fried bread were absolutely delicious.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Ox Heart, Beetroot & Red Cabbage

The “Ox Heart, Beetroot & Red Cabbage” is a tribute to texture.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Ox Heart, Beetroot & Red Cabbage – detail

Firm, robust muscle, perfectly accompanied by the crunchy red cabbage and the beetroot.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Bacon & Beans

And now the ultimate classic: “Bacon & Beans”. I do not recall bacon ever tasting so good.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Bacon & Beans – detail

After the black pudding, this is the second dish that made me feel that I was in my mother’s kitchen.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Bacon & Beans

The bacon was juicy and full of flavors, the beans tender and tasty, and the sauce absolutely divine, and thick.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli

I was very curious to taste a fish dish. Especially after having tasted the meat heavy weights. I chose “Brill, Leeks & Aioli”.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli – detail

The fish was perfectly cooked. As you can see.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli – detail

I ate the skin and it was crispy and delicious!!!

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli – detail

I wish I could eat more leeks and aioli. But I couldn’t.

A good meal (or two meals for that matter) always ends with a new one.

So here is my list of what I wish to taste during my next visit: Mussels, Razor Clams, Lamb Sweetbreads, Pork Chops…

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London

Thank you Mssrs. Henderson and Gulliver, thank you to all staff of the restaurant, You all gave me an unforgetable culinary experience.

Ristorante "Il Colombaio", Casole d'Elsa, Tuscany, Italy

One hot evening in August 2011 I found myself in the garden of the restaurant “Il Colombaio” in the outskirts of the beautiful Tuscan village of Casole d’Elsa.

Casole d'Elsa Coat of Arms

The restaurant came highly recommended by a friend who visits the village almost every year.

The restaurant is also listed in the Michelin Red Guide and has one star.

I started with a selection of salumi from a producer in the area.

It was divine.

Cinta Senese

I particularly liked the locally produced Prosciutto di Cinta Senese, which according to “Barilla” owes its sweet, slightly gamey flavor, oily fat and aroma to the heritage Italian breed of pig called “Cinta Senese” used to make the prosciutto.

Another first dish was based on polenta, with and without cuttlefish ink, and a vegetable mousse. Very light and tasty.

My main dish choice was a tartare from the famous “chainina” cattle breed.

The meat was served almost undressed. There was a touch of olive oil,oregano, some salt crystals, and a few peppercorns. The sauces were more decorative as they were extremely subtle.

Chianina

It was the first time I had tartare almost undressed. And it was worth it. The meat was juicy and sweet, after the first couple of bites I made subconsciously the switch from main dish to desert. What an experience!

Other main dishes were pork roast and pigeon breast, caramelized in a wine sauce.

The wine was a Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico 2001, priced extremely reasonably. The same comment applies to the whole of the wine list, which is a steal. Some of the best Tuscan wines, offered at prices that amaze me. Let alone that you cannot find them in the wine shop.

Overall, “Il Colombaio” is a restaurant I enjoyed and want to visit again. Both for its food, but also because of its wine list.

Ristorante Madonina del Pescatore: La immortalità del cibo

Today’s post is about my visit to Moreno Cedroni’s restaurant “Madonina del Pescatore”, in Senigallia, near Ancona, Italy. I was there on my way to Tuscany, and decided to have lunch at the restaurant before proceeding with my trip.

Senigallia is on the Adriatic coast, south of Rimini, the birth town of Fellini. I was there back in the summer of 2009, when I visited the “Uliassi” restaurant, on my way to Ravenna.

It was late December. The long road by the beach was empty in the middle of the day, in sharp contrast with the pandemonium of the summer. The air was not cold, but humid, and the atmosphere hazy. The big lady dressed in dark greeted me and suggested to have a good lunch, as you never know when life will end. She then turned back to her endless gazing at the sea.

The restaurant has been awarded two Michelin Red Guide stars many years ago, and has managed to keep them, a good indication that time is acting to the chef’s benefit so far. The theme of the chef’s creations is “la immortalità del cibo”, i.e. “the immortality of the food”. It sounded very good to me, especially after my encounter a few moments before. I entered the restaurant and ordered the menu of the chef, eager to taste what the chef had in store, eager to immortalize my humble existence for even a split second. .

The beginning was hygienic, as I was asked to brush my teeth and then wash them with the greenish liquid.

Mojito alla Lavanda e Nocciolina.

Then came the aperitivo, a tasty white foam on a bed a martini cubes, accompanied by a fake pistachio in his crust. So far so good.

There was no amuse bouche, the action started straight away.

Raw amberjack, leeks and lemongrass sauce, pancy, basil and fried amarant. The amberjack was sweet and tender but with texture. The sauce was discrete, supporting the fish taste.

Oyster with sour cream, green onion, raspberry caramel and pearls with black tea. Oysters require subtlety and superior balance. They can get very watery and soft, or dry and tough. In this dish, the chef has achieved perfection. The pearls of black tea complemented the flavors superbly, by adding a slightly bitter note to the harmony.

Swordfish bites “shabu shabu” style with celeriac, pineapple and green peppers. Shabu-shabu directly translates to “swish-swish” and is a cooking technique whereby you submerge bits of the meat or fish in hot water and swish it around. The taste of the flesh was mildly aromatic and firm. Good balance of subtle sweet and sour in the accompanying vegetables and fruit.

Tribute to Giacomelli (see below): the black figure awaits the white – black bean sauce with seared scallops. I am a scallop lover. I fell in love with this dish. The scallops were seared to perfection, the seasoning ever so subtle and discrete to simply accentuate the natural flavors. The black bean sauce supporting the scallops extremely smooth and fine.

Mario Giacomelli (1925 – 2000) was a photographer born and raised in Senigallia.

Cardoon soup, camomile and cuttlefish. Soothing, smooth, flavorful, the soup supports the tender cuttlefish. A nice interlude.

Risotto with clams, red shrimps and squid, “aio oio”,  parsley and wasabi sauce. This dish is the powerhouse of the menu. The combination of “aio oio” that is “aglio e olio” that is “garlic and olive oil” with the wasabi sauce was a big success, and elevated the risotto to the sky!

Turbot with braised wild mushrooms, jerusalem artichokes sauce and white truffles acqualagna. The turbot was tender, seared to perfection, the accompanying mushrooms and the sauce as always subtle and supporting. Deliciou,s uplifting dish!

The dishes were accompanied by moderate quantities of the excellent white wine “VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI VIGNA DELLA OCHE 2008”.

Sorbet of Toma Cheese with strawberry jam. Wonderful combination of flavors!

Chocolate mousse, Clementine oil and sea urchin eggs. The absolute star of the deserts, a hard core dynamite combination that blows up in your mouth. Extremely long aftertaste.

Purple ice cream, raspberry mousse and streusel spice. The best sequel to the dynamite mousse, playful in colors and subtle flavors.

Ice cold zabaione (-196 degrees). The illusion of taste. This puffy blob disappears in the mouth so quickly and so suddenly that it is like the descend to nothingness. This is the end.

On my way out I looked at the long sandy beach. Did I become immortal? Even for a split second?

Yes! In the deserted, winterly beach by the Adriatic I entered the world of split second immortality. This now occurs to me as the continuation of the path that originated in Vienna, when I visited the Vestibuel Restaurant, and I declared:

“If mortality is so beautiful, I am happy to be mortal!”

I now realize that this statement anticipated the experience of split second immortality, therefore it is the prologue to the immortality path that now took me to Senigallia.