Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province, Turkey – Σκαλα (Κάτω Βουρλά)

Road Sign to Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province

I recently visited Izmir and toured parts of the Izmir province.

Today I publish some of the photos I took in the small seaside town of Iskele (Skala in Greek).

The Swan is the symbol of the ancient Ionian city of Klazomenai

Iskele is located a short distance away from the city of Urla (Vourla in Greek), built near the site of the ancient Ionian city of Klazomenai (Clazomenae), the birthplace of philosopher Anaxagoras.

Goalpost in Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province, Turkey

The city of Urla is located 40km west of Izmir, on the Rythrean peninsula.

Fishing boats in Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province, Turkey

The small port of Iskele in the 19th century and early 20th century was very busy when the famous raisin of the area was shipped abroad. According to some sources, in 1910 more than 1,600 tonnes were exported to Austria alone.

The summer house of the Seferis family in Iskerle, Urla, Izmir Province

Many wealthy families from Izmir and Urla had their summer residence in Iskele. One of the them, was the family of Stelios Seferiadis, a lawyer, and father of the Greek Nobel Laureate Giorgos Seferis, who was born in Izmir and raised in Urla. The residence is a complex of buildings that has been turned into a hotel and restaurant.

Renovated house in Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province

According to the census of 1920, the city of Urla had 50,000 inhabitants; 35,000 Greeks, 5,000 Turks and 10,000 Armenians and Jews. Only 500 of them were living in Iskele.

Public Park in Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province

As I was walking in the small town, a local resident asked me in Greek “where are you from?” And he knew the answer before I gave it to him.

Houses in Iskele, Urla, Izmir Province

Objects that tell a story (2): My maternal grandfather’s 1915 travel document to Russia

Introduction

Digging into a box with documents and photos I found in pieces a travel document belonging to my maternal grandfather, Spyridon Mavrogenes. I assembled it in one piece and present it as an object that tells a story.

Spyridon G Mavrogenes

Spyridon Mavrogenes was born in 1878. At the age of 37, in the year 1915, he travelled to Russia. I presume the trip had to do with his profession, which was to export olive oil and other agricultural products like Corinthian raisin (stafida) from the Peloponese to various countries.

Europe and the Balkans in 1915

In 1915 Europe and the Balkans were in turmoil. I have picked some morcels from the press of the period.

The New York Times, February 10 1915

In a dispatch from Petrograd, the capital of tsarist Russia, we read that “Constantinople must be taken” by the Russians. I remind the reder that Russia had declared war on the Ottoman Empire in November 1914.

The New York Times, February 10 2015

At the same time, the Austrians are attacking Turnu -Severin, a major port city on the Danube, with strategic importance for Vienna.

Two days before my grandfather got his travel document from the prefecture of Thessaloniki, on 26th April 1915 in London, Italy had signed the Treaty of London, becoming an ally of the Triple Entent and betraying the Triple Alliance where it belonged. As a result of the treaty, Italy took over control of the Dodecanese islands.

In September 1915, the Bulgarians threw in their lot with Germany and Austria-Hungary by concluding an alliance. On October 6, the great Austro-German offensive began against Serbia and Bulgaria declared war on Belgrade eight days later. Bulgarian troops spilled over Serbia’s eastern border, and an Anglo-French landing at Salonika in Greece failed to blunt the Bulgarian advance. By December 1915, the Serbian Army had collapsed and was in full flight. The Bulgarians established a defensive line to contain the Allied forces in northern Greece.

Sunday Times, Perth, Australia, Sunday 24 October 1915

In October 1915 Romania decided to join the side of England, France and Russia, on condition that the Allies send 400,000 troops to the Balkans.

My grandfather’s trip appears ot have taken place between May and July 2015. He narrowly escaped the fireworks!

The travel document

The travel document

The travel document was issued by the Prefect of Thessaloniki on the 28th April 1915. What you see above is the front side of the document.

Front Side Left - Εμπροσθια Πλευρα Αριστερη

ΕΝ ΟΝΟΜΑΤΙ

ΤΗΣ ΚΥΒΕΡΝΗΣΕΩΣ

ΤΟΥ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΥ ΤΗΣ ΕΛΛΑΔΟΣ

Προσκαλουμεν παντας τους αξιωματικους του Βασιλειου της Ελλαδος, πολιτικους τε και στρατιωτικους και παρακαλουμεν τους των φιλων Δυναμεων να αφησωσιν ελευθεραν την διοδον εις τον Κον Σπυριδωνα Γ. Μαυρογενη απερχομενον εις Ρωσσιαν δια … χωρις να εμποδισθη ή ενοχληθη παρ’ ουδενος, να χορηγηθη μαλιστα, εν αναγκη, προς αυτον πασα ευκολια και υπερασπισις.

Επι τουτω εξεδοθη το παρον υπογεγραμμενον παρ’ ημων.

Εν Θεσσαλονικη τη 28 Απριλιου 1915

Ο ΝΟΜΑΡΧΗΣ ΘΕΣΣΑΛΟΝΙΚΗΣ

Front Right Side - Εμπροσθια Δεξια Οψη

AU NOM

DU GOUVERNEMENT DE GRECE

DU ROYAUME DE GRECE

 Requerons tous les officiers,civil et militaires, du Royaume de Grece, et prions ceux de pays amis de laisser passer librement M Spyridon G Mavrogenis se rendant au Russie pour …  sans qu’ il soit empeche ni moleste par personne, et de lui preter aide et protection, en cas de besoin. 

A cet effet nous avons delivre le present, signe par nous. 

Fait a Salonique le 28 April 1915

LE PREFET DE SALONIQUE

Civil duty stamp - Χαρτοσημον Διοικησεως

The afficionados of this sort of thing will note the civil duty stamp of 5 drachmas on the top left of the document.

Its back is full of stamps and approvals, and also has the photo of the traveller.

The Trip

I will try to use the document to reconstruct part of the trip.

Approval by the Romanian Colsulate in Thessaloniki

The document by itself as issued by the Prefect of Thessaloniki was not enough. There had to be approvals by the other countries. As you see above, the Conculate of the Kingdom of Romania approved the trip on the 29th April 1915. It says also that a tax of five Lei has been applied and paid.

Approval of the trip by the Serbian Consulate in Thessaloniki

Likewise, there had to be an approval by the Serbian Consulate in Thessaloniki.

The trip begins on the 30th April 1915, as is shown on the stamp dated accordingly, by the “Passport Office of Railroad…”

The port of Prahovo, photo by Matt Lutton

From a stamp on the back side, I gather that he made his way through Serbia by railroad to the Danube port town of Prahovo. Today Prahovo is a small town of 1600 people.

The stamp on the document has a date of July 1915, apparently on the traveller’s way back to Greece.

Did the traveller follow the same route on his way to Russia, and then back? We will never know.

Drobeta Turnu-Severin in Romania

From there, 31 kilometers to the North is the town of (Drobeta) Turnu Severin, where he entered Romanian territory. There is a stamp from the police of the port in “T-Severin” to prove it.

Entry stamp in Romania - 12 May 1915

Most likely he took a river boat to get there, although there is no way of knowing.

Turnu-Severin in 1910

Turnu-Severin is a city built by the river Danube and at the beginning of the twentieth century was a significant transport hub, for moving goods to and from Central Europe to the East and the South.

“As a major port on the Danube, the freedom of trade facilitated the entry of goods by boat from Vienna and the exchange of material necessary for economic development. Severin experienced a steady economic, urban and social growth until 1972, when it received the name of Drobeta-Turnu Severin.” (Source: Wikipedia)

Old warehouses (1890s - 1900s) that once stored goods from the Danube river trade, Drobeta Turnu Severin, south western Romania.

The photo above, which I found in Valentin Mandache’s informative and specialized blog “Historic Houses of Romania“, provides testimony to the wealth an the might of the town back then.

Given its importance as a commerical traffic port, Turnu – Severin may not have been only a stop over. It is likely that my grandfather was using it as a port for shipping goods to Vienna, where he was also doing business.

From Turnu-Severin, the travelled went to Bucharest, where he got an approval to stay in Romania as the stamp dated 15 June shows.

Stamp of the bureau for the control of foreigners in Bucharest

I cannot deduce how long he stayed in Romania and when and how he travelled on to Russia and back.

Permit to enter Serbia

A little more than a month after he got the stamp from the Greek Consulate in Bucharest, he appears in the Serbian Consulate in Bucharest and receives a stamp so that he can enter Serbia. The date of the stamp is 19 July 1915.

Permit to return to Greece

The next day, 20 July 1915 my grandfather receives a stamp from the Greek Consulte in Bucharest, allowing him to travel to Greece.

Exit stamp, Turnu - Severin

Two days later, on the 22 July 1915, he exits Romania at the port of Turnu-Severin.

He arrived in Prahovo on the same day, 22 July 1915.

Four days later, and almost three months after he left Thessaloniki, on 26 July 1915, he exits Serbia, entering Greece.

There is no information regarding the date of his arrival in Thessaloniki.

As I cannot read Cyrillic, I cannot deduce anything about the traveller’s Russian itinerary and the relevant stamps.

Chance

Christian Boltanski, Chance: French Pavillion, Venice Biennale 2011

“The work presented at Venice is optimistic in its reflection on chance and destiny; the chance of birth against the chance of death. Is everything pre-determined? Who controls destiny? Has our path already been decided? Is God present or absent? At the entrance to the pavilion, the visitor is invited to sit on one of the wooden chairs. A voice whispers to him. Each chair “speaks” in a different language uttering the words “Is this the last time?” Is this a message of hope? Or a troubling announcement?… The interior of the pavilion is criss-crossed by a moving walkway, that travels at great speed and upon which hundreds of photos of childrenʼs faces have been printed. The walkway stops randomly and one of the childrenʼs faces is lit up and an alarm sounds. Chance has picked out one child. The process begins all over again, until the walkway stops again and the alarm signals Chanceʼs next choice.” (Press Release)

Monument in Nuremberg, Germany

“O my soul, do not aspire to immportal life, but

exhaust the limits of the possible”

Pindar, Pythian iii

Messkirch, Germany

The sunset in Vouliagmeni is one of the most beautiful in the world. It is in harmony with Man.

You can reach all areas, you can swim, you can walk, even the rocks are hospitable.

Sunset in Vouliagmeni, Attica, Greece

Even in Wintertime there are brave souls who swim with their bodies.

When I look at them I always think of Schubert’s Winterreise, set on 24 poems of Wilhelm Mueller. Schubert called it “a cycle of terrifying songs”. Here are two of them, sung by Mathias Goerne, accompanied by Alfred Brendel.

Täuschung – Deception

A light on the dark and icy road at night, might be a warm place to stay, or the deception of a beautiful face.

Der Wegweiser  – The Signpost

Straying restlessly away from the roads, he still seeks rest. There is always a signpost in front of him, pointing to the road from which no wanderer returns. Death?

Sunrise in Kaletzi, near Marathon, Greece

The landscape is barren. Three years ago multiple fires scorched the earth and destroyed beautiful pine forests all around.

But the sun every time it rises, makes the barren landscape look beautiful.

Richard Strauss was one of the greatest composers. Morgen! (“Tomorrow!”) is the last in a set of four songs composed in 1894, set in a poem of John Henry Mackay.

It is sung by Dame Janet Baker.

Tomorrow!

Tomorrow again will shine the sun
And on my sunlit path of earth
Unite us again, as it has done,
And give our bliss another birth…
The spacious beach under wave-blue skies
We’ll reach by descending soft and slow,
And mutely gaze in each other’s eyes,
As over us rapture’s great hush will flow.

Martin Heidegger's Feldweg in Messkirch, Germany

In 1948, one year before his death on 1949, Richard Strauss composed “Fier Letzte Lieder”, his “Last Four Songs” for soprano and orchestra.

At Sunset is sung by Gundula Janowitz. Berliner Philharmoniker is conducted by Herbert von Karajan.

Im Abendrot – At Sunset

We have gone through sorrow and joy
hand in hand;
Now we can rest from our wandering
above the quiet land.

Around us, the valleys bow;
the air is growing darker.
Just two skylarks soar upwards
dreamily into the fragrant air.

Come close to me, and let them flutter.
Soon it will be time for sleep.
Let us not lose our way
in this solitude.

O vast, tranquil peace,
so deep at sunset!
How weary we are of wandering—
Is this perhaps death?

Sunset in Vouliagmeni, Attica, Greece

“Although The Myth of Sisyphus poses mortal problems, it sums up for me as a lucid invitation to live and to create in the very midst of the desert.”

Albert Camus, in the Preface to his book, March 1955.

Through the Glass: From Bucharest to Athens on a Friday morning in December 2011

One icy morning in December, I flew with Tarom Airlines, the Romanian National Carrier, from Bucharest’s Otopeni Airport to Athens’ Eleftherios Venizelos. This is a sequence of images through the glass of the airplane’s window.

Temperature and weather conditions at the Ottopeni Airport, at the time of departure:  -1 C, clear skies, frost on the ground.

Otopeni Airport, de-icing the airplane

The airplane reequired de-icing due to the frosty conditions.

Otopeni Airport, Ground service personnel

Ground service personnel

Otopeni Airport, de-icing truck

The de-icing truck

Otopeni Airport, after the de-icing shower

At Otopeni, after the de-icing.

Taxiing at Otopeni Airport

Taxiing at Otopeni

Otopeni Airport, terminal building

A fuzzy view of the terminal building at Otopeni Airport

Airborne, over Romanian Land

Airborne, over Romanian land

Airborne, over Bulgarian mountains

Airbrone, over Bulgarian mountains (it is NOT the sea!)

Airborne, over Northern Greece

Airborne, over Northern Greece

Airborne, over Central Aegean Sea

Airborne, over Central Aegean Sea

Airborne, near Evoia

Airborne, near Evoia

Landed at Athens' Eleftherios Venizelos

Landed!

Flaps down and taxxing

Flaps down and taxiing

Weather conditions at the Athens Airport at the time of landing: clear skies, 10 C, dry conditions.

All photos were taken with my mobile phone, a Sony Ericsson Xperia X10 mini. A handy and mighty device!

A Cretan Madonna in Venice: Mesopanditissa in Santa Maria della Salute (Saint Mary of Health)

JMW Turner: Santa Maria della Salute

Today I want to honor the centuries’ old ties between Byzantium and Venice, by kneeling in front of the “Mesopanditissa” Madonna, a 12th or 13th century Byzantine icon that was brought to Venice in 1669, after Candia (Herakleion) fell to the Ottoman Turks. The picture is kept in the main altar of the Church of Santa Maria della Salute (Holy Mary of the Health). Lets start with the historical background.

Santa Maria della Salute is one of the jewels of Venice. Baldassare Longhena was 32 years old when he won a competition in 1631 to design a shrine honoring the Virgin Mary for saving Venice from a plague that in the space of two years (1629-30) killed 47,000 residents, or one-third the population of the city. Outside, this ornate white Istrian stone octagon is topped by a colossal cupola with snail-like ornamental buttresses and a baroque facade; inside are a polychrome marble floor and six chapels.

The Byzantine icon above the main altar has been venerated as the Madonna della Salute (Madonna of Health) since 1670, when Francesco Morosini brought it here from Crete. The icon and other holy relics, were brought to Venice by Morosini when Crete fell to the Ottoman Turks.

It was the jewel of the Church of Saint Titus in the center of Candia, today’s Irakleion. Morosini also brought to Venice the remains of Saint Titus. They were kept in Saint Mark’s Basilica until 1966, when they were returned to Crete.

Above it is a sculpture showing Venice on her knees to the Madonna as she drives the wretched plague from the city.

I must confess that the baroque sculptures surrounding the Madonna did not impress me, but they are not in any way obstructing the view of the magnificent icon.

The Madonna is serene, understanding, can absorb the pain of the whole world. The Holy Child is contemplative.

The icon is at home in the magnificent Church. It stands next to Titian, Giordano, Tintoretto, like they are its most natural companion.

This is the glory of Byzantium, glory that remains alive and strong in Venice. More on the subject will follow.

Restaurant "v Zatisi" Prague, Czech Republic

Overture

This is a review of my visit to the restaurant “V Zatisi” in the historical center of Prague, in the Czech Republic.

I have already written a short statement in tripadvisor, as I believe that good work should be commented upon, especially for cities like Prague which do not exactly have a reputation of good dining.

I confess that I was prejudiced against Czech food, considering it more beer-hall food, rich in animal fat and poor in taste.

My visit to “V Zatisi” proved to me that with luck a visitor to Prague can have a delicious meal at a very reasonable price.

First Movement: Adaggio

It was a little after 2 pm in a very cold day (-12 degrees centigrade). My one day visit to Prague was from a business pespective over, as my meeting was concluded and I had a few hours to enjoy a decent meal before catching the flight back to my origin. These one day trips are usually tiring, and a good meal is the best antidote to the rat race.

I was greeted by LiborPavlicek, who recommended to me a menu of local dishes and local wines. I started with the Kulajda Soup, which is a traditional Bohemian soup with sour cream, mushrooms, dill, and quail egg.

The soup was delicious, with an extra touch of acidity which is due to the fact that the dill is pickled. I was impressed by the meaty texture of the mushrooms. Overall, an excellent start.

Second Movement: Allegro

Second course was a wonderful surprise, tender bites of mead roasted quails with barley risotto.

The quail was juicy, tender, gamey in flavor, as it should, while the risotto was crunchy and delicious .

I enjoyed it with a glass of “Rulandske sede” ie Pinot Gris, 2009, from Poddvorov. I was impressed by the fruity aroma of this wine. Highly enjoyable.

Third Movement: Vivace

The main course was the special of the day. Beef cheeks with potato gnocchi.

The meat was full of gelatin, tender and juicy, the red wine sauce thick and tasty, the potato gnocchi with parmezan, overall a well executed dish, to keep you going for many hours.

The cheeks were accompanied by a glass of “Zweigeltrebe” 2009 from Poddvorov.  It is a red wine that is popular in Austria and the Czech Republic. In the Wikipedia link you can read some of the background of the grape. I enjoyed its subtlety and comprehensive after taste.

Fourth Movement: Allegretto

To conclude an excellent meal, I opted for the vanilla bean creme brulee, which is my all time favourite desert.

Libor kindly suggested a glass of “Ryzlink rynsky”2007, from Popice. This is a sweet Rieslink made from a sdelection od dried grapes. Its taste was elegant, fruity, almost noble. A great finish to a great meal.

The Sea – Η Θαλασσα

C.D. Friedrich - Monk by the Sea
And then went down to the ship,
Set keel to breakers, forth on the godly sea, and
We set up mast and sail on that swart ship,
Bore sheep aboard her, and our bodies also
Heavy with weeping, and winds from sternward
Bore us onward with bellying canvas,
Crice’s this craft, the trim-coifed goddess.
Then sat we amidships, wind jamming the tiller,
Thus with stretched sail, we went over sea till day’s end.
Sun to his slumber, shadows o’er all the ocean,
Came we then to the bounds of deepest water…
Ezra Pound, Canto I

C.D. Friedrich – Moon descending on the sea

«Ήδη ὁ ήλιος, επιφανεὶς ακόμη μίαν φοράν, έκλινε προς την δύσιν. Ήτο τρίτη και ημίσεια ώρα. Και ὁ ήλιος εχαμήλωνε, εχαμήλωνε. Και ἡ βαρκούλα του μπαρμπα-Στεφανή, με το ανθρώπινον φορτίον της, εχόρευεν, εχόρευεν επάνω εις το κύμα, πότε ανερχομένη εις υγρὰ όρη, πότε κατερχομένη εις ρευστάς κοιλάδας, νυν μεν εις την ακμὴν να καταποντισθή εις την άβυσσον, νυν δε ετοίμη να κατασυντριβή κατά της κρημνώδους ακτής. Και ὁ ιερεὺς έλεγε μέσα του την παράκλησιν όλην, από το «Πολλοίς συνεχόμενος» έως το «Πάντων προστατεύεις». Κι ὁ μπαρμπα-Στεφανής εστενοχωρείτο, μὴ δυνάμενος επὶ παρουσία του παπά να εκχύση ελευθέρως τας αφελείς βλασφημίας του, τας οποίας εμάσα κι έπνιγε μέσα του, ὑποτονθορύζων: «Σκύλιασε ὁ διαολόκαιρος, λύσσαξε! Θα σκάσης, αντίχριστε, Τούρκο! Το Μουχαμετη σου, μέσα!» Κι ἡ θειὰ το Μαλαμώ, ποιούσα το σημείον του Σταυρού, έλεγε το «Θεοτόκε Παρθένε», κι επανελάμβανεν: «Έλα, κ᾿στὲ μ᾿! Βοήθα, Παναΐα μ᾿!» Και τα κύματα έπληττον την πρώραν, έπληττον τα πλευρὰ του σκάφους, και εισορμώντα εις το κύτος εκτύπων τα νώτα, εκτύπων τους βραχίονας των ἐπιβατών. Και ὁ ήλιος εχαμήλωνεν, εχαμήλωνε. Και ἡ βαρκούλα εκινδύνευε ν᾿ αφανισθή. Και η απορρώξ βραχώδης ακτὴ εφαίνετο διαφιλονικούσα την λείαν προς τον βυθὸν της θαλάσσης».

Αλεξανδρος Παπαδιαμαντης, Στο Χριστο στο Καστρο

Emil Nolde – North Sea

“Through thunder and storm, from distant seas
I draw near, my lass!
Through towering waves, from the south
I am here, my lass!
My girl, were there no south wind
I could never come to you:
ah, dear south wind, blow once more!
My lass longs for me.”

Richard Wagner, The Flying Dutchman

Emil Nolde – The Sea

“Driven on by storms and violent winds,
I have wandered over the oceans –
for how long I can scarcely say:
I no longer count the years.
It’s impossible, I think, to name
all the countries where I’ve been;
the only one for which I yearn
I never find, my homeland!”

Richard Wagner, The Flying Dutchman

Max Beckmann – North Sea

Night sea journey
An archetypal motif in mythology, psychologically associated with depression and the loss of energy characteristic of neurosis.The night sea journey is a kind of descensus ad inferos–a descent into Hades and a journey to the land of ghosts somewhere beyond this world, beyond consciousness, hence an immersion in the unconscious.[“The Psychology of the Transference,” CW 16, par. 455.]Mythologically, the night sea journey motif usually involves being swallowed by a dragon or sea monster. It is also represented by imprisonment or crucifixion, dismemberment or abduction, experiences traditionally weathered by sun-gods and heroes: Gilgamesh, Osiris, Christ, Dante, Odysseus, Aeneas. In the language of the mystics it is the dark night of the soul.Jung interpreted such legends symbolically, as illustrations of the regressive movement of energy in an outbreak of neurosis and its potential progression.

The hero is the symbolical exponent of the movement of libido. Entry into the dragon is the regressive direction, and the journey to the East (the “night sea journey”) with its attendant events symbolizes the effort to adapt to the conditions of the psychic inner world. The complete swallowing up and disappearance of the hero in the belly of the dragon represents the complete withdrawal of interest from the outer world. The overcoming of the monster from within is the achievement of adaptation to the conditions of the inner world, and the emergence (“slipping out”) of the hero from the monster’s belly with the help of a bird, which happens at the moment of sunrise, symbolizes the recommencement of progression.[“On Psychic Energy,” CW 8, par. 68.]

All the night sea journey myths derive from the perceived behavior of the sun, which, in Jung’s lyrical image, “sails over the sea like an immortal god who every evening is immersed in the maternal waters and is born anew in the morning.[“Symbols of the Mother and of Rebirth,”CW 5, par. 306.] The sun going down, analogous to the loss of energy in a depression, is the necessary prelude to rebirth. Cleansed in the healing waters (the unconscious), the sun (ego-consciousness) lives again.

(Source: Lexicon of Jungian Terms)

Panayiotis Tetsis - Sunset

Βγάζει η θάλασσα κρυφή φωνή —
φωνή που μπαίνει
μες στην καρδιά μας και την συγκινεί
και την ευφραίνει.

The secret voice of the Sea

enters our heart

it moves and rejoices it.

C.D. Friedrich - Wreck in the Sea of Ice

Τραγούδι είναι, ή παράπονο πνιγμένων; —

το τραγικό παράπονο των πεθαμένων,
που σάβανό των έχουν τον ψυχρόν αφρό,
και κλαίν για ταις γυναίκες των, για τα παιδιά των,
και τους γονείς των, για την έρημη φωλιά των,
ενώ τους παραδέρνει πέλαγο πικρό,

Is it a song, or the complaint of the ones that sunk? –

the tragic complaint of the dead,

whose shroud is the cold foam,

and cry for their wifes and their children,

and their parents, and their empty nest,

while the bitter waves batter them,

C.D. Friedrich - Sea of Ice

σε βράχους και σε πέτραις κοφτεραίς τους σπρώχνει,
τους μπλέκει μες στα φύκια, τους τραβά, τους διώχνει,
κ’ εκείνοι τρέχουνε σαν νάσαν ζωντανοί
με ολάνοιχτα τα μάτια τρομαγμένα,
και με τα χέρια των άγρια, τεντωμένα,
από την αγωνία των την υστερνή.

and pushes them on to sharp rocks and stones,

tangles them in weeds, pulls them, pushes them,

and they run as if they were alive

with eyes scared wide open,

and their hands tense, spread,

full of the tension of death.

Κ. Καβαφης, Αποσπασμα απο τα Αποκηρυγμενα, Ικαρος, 1983

C. Cavafy, Excerpt from the Denounced Poems, Icaros, 1983

(The interpretation in English is mine)

Nikolaos Lytras – Boat with Sail

«Όχι! Όχι! Δεν βρίσκεται η χαρά στην άλλη όχθη μόνον! Είναι εδώ, μεσ’ στις ψυχές μας, μέσα σε τούτες τις καρδιές, είναι παντού για όσους μπορούν να σπάσουν τα δεσμά των, αφού και μέσα μας ο ήλιος ανατέλλει και δείχνει την πορεία μας παντού όπου πηγαίνει, φως εκ φωτός αυτός, πυρσός λαμπρός του υπερτάτου φαροδείκτου, που όλοι τον παραλείπουν οι άλλοι, του φαροδείκτου, σύντροφοι, που είναι ο ουρανός!»

“No! No! Happiness does not exist only on the distant shore! It is here, inside our souls, inside these hearts, it is everywhere for those who can break their chains, as is the sun that rises inside and guides us wherever we go, light out of light, a shining torch of the supreme beacon, which we tend to forget, the sky! ”

Έτσι ελάλησα και κάθε αμφιταλάντευσις απέπτη απ’ τις ψυχές μας. Η αγαλλίασίς μου στους άλλους μετεδόθη, και, όλοι, κοιτάζοντας τον ήλιο, πετάξαμε τα σύνεργα της πλοιαρχίας – χάρτες, διαβήτες, εξάντας και φακούς – και αρπάζοντας τους σκούφους μας, εμείς, οι ναυτικοί εκ ναυτικών, τρέξαμε στο καράβι μας (το λέγαν “Άγιος Σώζων”) και όλοι, φλεγόμενοι από την νέα μας πίστη, χωρίς πλέον να ψάχνουμε το “πού” και “πώς”, τα παλαμάρια λύσαμε και υψώνοντας τα πανιά μας, αδίσταχτα σαλπάραμε με μια κραυγή:

«Κύριε των δυνάμεων μεθ’ ημών γενού».

Thus I spoke and every doubt flew away from our souls. My uplifting was transferred to the others, and all, watching the Sun, threw out all the instruments of navigation – maps, compasses, sextants and lenses – and snatching our caps, we, the mariners, the mariners of mariners, run to our ship (it was named “Saint Saviour”) and all, burning in our newly found faith, without any more searching for the “where” and “how”, we released the mooring lines and raising our sails, sailed without hesitation with one cry:

“Lord of the powers be with us”.

Ανδρεας Εμπειρικος, Οκτανα

Andreas Empeiricos, Octana

(The interpretation in English is mine)

‘God, he said quietly. Isn’t the sea what Algy calls it: a great sweet mother? The snotgreen sea. The scrotumtightening sea. (Πλεων δ'<ε>) Epi oinopa ponton (We’re sailing upon the wine-dark sea). Ah, Dedalus, the Greeks. I must teach you. You must read them in the original. Thalatta! Thalatta! She is our great sweet mother. Come and look.’

James Joyce,  Ulysses

Note: Homer’s “πλεων δ’επι οινοπα ποντον επ’ αλλοθροους ανθρωπους” is in-scripted on The Iron Footbridge in Frankfurt. It is therefore fitting to conclude with a poem of Frankfurt’s famous son,

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.

CALM AT SEA.

SILENCE deep rules o’er the waters,

Calmly slumb’ring lies the main,
While the sailor views with trouble

Nought but one vast level plain.

Not a zephyr is in motion!

Silence fearful as the grave!
In the mighty waste of ocean

Sunk to rest is ev’ry wave.

Goethe 1795

Happy Travelling!

Happy New Year!

The "Arista" Trip – Το ταξιδιον της "Αριστης"

Το παρον αποτελει ταξιδιωτικον χρονικον. Λιγο πριν τα Χριστουγεννα εξορμησα στην Τοσκανη για να δω τον φιλο μου τον Νταριο και να προμηθευτω τα αναγκαια κρεατικα για το μετα-Χριστουγεννιατικο τραπεζι με το οποιο εδω και 19 χρονια τιμω τον κουμπαρο Εμμανουηλ και την κουμπαρα Μαρια, τους οποιους ενυμφευσα στις 26 Δεκεμβριου 1991.

Ο Νταριο ειναι χασαπης σε μια κωμοπολη της Τοσκανης, το Παντσανο, και με τιμα με τη φιλια του απο το 2003.   Παρολον οτι ειναι διεθνης φιρμα, ειδικα στις ΗΠΑ οπου η κοινοτητα των σεφ Ιταλικης καταγωγης τον λατρευουν, ο Νταριο μενει πιστος στη δουλεια του, ανοιγει το μαγαζι του καθε μερα στις 9 και το κλεινει στις 2 το μεσημερι. Αποτελει γνησια ενσαρκωση του αρτιζανου τη Αναγεννησης και οταν γνωριστηκαμε μου απεκαλυψε: “εγω Νικο δεν ειμαι Ιταλος, ειμαι Ετρουσκος”. Στον Νταριο εχω αναφερθει και σε προηγουμενο αρθρο μου τον Αυγουστο του 2009.

This is a travel report of my last visit to my friend Dario, in Panzano, Chianti, Tuscany, Italy. A fe w days before Christmas I found a couple of days to cross the Adriatic, drive to Panzano and visit with my friend, who supplies me with the best meat products. Dario is a celebrity butcher, especially in the USA, where the community of chefs with Italian origin swear in his name. In spite of his celebrity status, Dario remains true to his vocation. He opens his shop at 9, and closes it at 2 every day, rain or shine. In his web site he proclaims: “Io sono un artigiano”, i.e. “I am an artisan”, and what an artisan he is!

Το δρομολογιο ειναι απλο. Πατρα – Ανκονα με το πλοιο, ενα απο τα αγαπημενα μου Σουπερφαστ, γευμα και διαμονη στην περιοχη κοντα στην Ανκονα για μια βραδυα, και την επομενη μερα μεταβαση στην Τοσκανη μεσω Περουτζια, διασχιζοντας εξ ανατολων προς δυσμας την ιταλικη χερσονησο, με αυτοκινητοδρομους που τρυπανε τα βουνα της χερσονησου πλειστες οσες φορες και μηδεν διοδια.

The travel plan is simple. Patras – Ancona on board one of my favourite ferrys, Superfast, arrival the next day and lunch at one of the restaurants near Ancona. Overnight stay in the Marches area, and the next day crossing of the Italian peninsula from east to west. The route takes me to Panzano via Perugia.

Φθανοντας στο λιμανι της Πατρας, στην Ηρωων Πολυτεχνειου, αντικρυσα για πρωτη φορα το κυμα των μεταναστων που εχει κατακλυσει την περιοχη του λιμανιου. Ενα πληθος μεγαλο, πανταχου παρον, αφημενο στην τυχη και την κακοτυχια του. Σκεφτηκα τον εαυτο μου στη θεση τους. Αφραγκος, αστεγος, βρωμικος και ελεεινος σε μια ξενη πολη, τι θα εκανα;

Arriving at the port of Patras, I saw for the first time the “wave” of immigrants who are stuck in the city and spend their time moving around the port area. The crowd is big, left to its misery and fate. How would I feel feel if I were in their position? Not well at all!  In spite of the obvious things that need to be done, nothing is done to ease the burden off the unfortunate people’s backs and eventually resolve the problem.

Ελαφρα συννεφια, αερας ελαχιστος, η προβλεψη για το περασμα απεναντι στην Ανκονα καλη. Το τεραστιο Σουπερφαστ 11 ειναι σχεδον αδειο. Τα περισσοτερα φορτηγα και ΙΧ θα μπουνε στην Ηγουμενιτσα. Χαζευω τα προσωπα των ταξιδιωτων. Οι περισσοτεροι ειναι φορτηγατζηδες, και απο ο,τι ακουσα υπαλληλοι οδηγοι, οχι ιδιοκτητες. Μαλλον ειναι καταδικασμενοι να κανουνε Χριστουγεννα στο δρομο, δεν προλαβαινουνε να γυρισουνε για τα Χριστουγεννα.

The weather was mild for December, a few clouds, light wind, temperature around 10 degrees centigrade. Superfast XI is almost empty. Most of the trucks and passenger cars will board in Igoumenitsa. I look at the travelers’ faces. Most of them are truck drivers, employees of firms rather than owners. It is too short a time for the Greeks to return home for Christmas.

Οι προβλεψεις επαληθευτηκαν. Ο διαπλους καλος, η θαλασσα ηρεμη, και η θερμοκρασια ηπια. Αρκετη υγρασια στην ατμοσφαιρα ομως.  Η Ανκονα ντυμενη στα χειμερινα χρωματα ειναι πιο σοβαρη, σχεδον επισημη. Καθως πλησιαζουμε την αποβαθρα για να δεσουμε, θυμαμαι οτι στην Ανκονα μεγαλωσε η Teresa Iginia de Marsanich,  η μητερα του μεγαλου Ιταλου λογοτεχνη Alberto Moravia.

The weather forecast came true. Very smooth sailing, calm seas, mild temperature. Due to the south winds, there is a lot of moisture in the air. Ancona welcomes us dressed in its winter colors. As we approach the pier, I remember that Ancona was the hometown of Teresa Iginia de Marsanich, the mother of the great Italian novelist Alberto Moravia.

Στην πρωτη στροφη για να βγω απο το λιμανι βλεπω το χιονι. Εδω και τρεις μερες αρχισε να λυωνει, παραμενει ομως και ηταν πολυ!

On the first turn to exit the port area I See the pile of melting snow. Three days ago they had heavy snowfall!

Η πρωτη σταση στην διπλανη πολη παραλιακη πολη της Σενιγκαλια, επανω στην παραλιακη λεωφορο. Το τοπωνυμιο ονομαζεται η Παναγιτσα του Ψαρα, και εχει αυτο το μικρο μνημειο . Ακριβως απεναντι, βρισκεται το ομωνυμο εστιατοριο του σεφ Μορενο Τσεντρονι. Για την επισκεψη μου σε αυτο εχει προηγηθει το σχετικο αρθρο.

First stop tot he neighboring town of Senigallia, on the avenue that runs along the Adriatic coast. The spot on the photo is called “Madonina del Pescatore” as the small monument testifies. Across the road, Moreno Cedroni, one of the most talented Italian chefs, offers you delicacies of the sea (and not only) in his restaurant with the same name. My visit to the restaurant is reported in the relevant post

Ολοταχως τωρα στο αγροτουριστικο καταλυμα “Tenuta San Marcello”  στους λοφους 30 χιλιομετρα απο την Ανκονα. Η περιφερεια ειναι η Marche, μια απο τις σχετικα αγνωστες τουριστικα περιοχες της Ιταλιας. Κι ομως, παρολο το χειμερινο χρωμα, το αγροκτημα ειναι υπεροχο!

After a delightful lunch I head straight to “Tenuta San Marcello“, an wine producing farm up on the hills west of Ancona. Marche, the region of ancona, is not a touristy area, but I love the landscape and – of course – the wine!

Η Πασκαλ και ο Μασσιμο, καλλιεργουν αμπελια. Πριν το 2008 κατοικουσαν και εργαζονταν στο Μιλανο, επαγγελματιες και οι δυο. Καποια μερα ομως αποφασισαν οτι η ζωη στην μεγαλη πολη του Βορρα δεν τους παει. Ο Μασσιμο καταγεται απο το Μπαρι, και εβρισκε τη νοοτροπια των Βορειων εντελως ξενη προς την δικη του. Πουλησαν λοιπον τα παντα και κατεβηκαν στο Σαν Ματρτσελο, οπου και αγορασαν το αγροκτημα. Εβαλαν τα λεφτα τους, δανειστηκαν και απο την τραπεζα, κι εφτιαξαν το καταλυμα.

Pascale and Massimo grow vines. Before 2008 they were professionals employed in Milan. One day they decided that urban life is not what they want to do for the rest of their life, and left. Massimo comes from Bari and found the culture of the North alien to his own. They sold what they owned and bought this agricultural land with a farm building in the area near San Marcello.

Το αγροκτημα διαθετει απλετους χωρους και ειναι ηδη δημοφιλες. Η Πασκαλ μου ανεφερε οτι παρολα τα καλα, δεν υπαρχει ακομη ενα πλαισιο προστασιας του αγροτικου περιβαλλοντος. Προσφατα ενα γειτονικο αγροτεμαχιο πωληθηκε σε εταιρεια που θα αναπτυξει φαρμα φωτοβολταϊκων! Για καποιο λογο δεν μπορω να διανοηθω κατι τετοιο να επιτρεπεται στην Τοσκανη!  Η Πασκαλ και ο Μασσιμο θα προσπαθησουν να μπλοκαρουν την εγκριτικη αποφαση, και δεν μπορουν ακομη να πιστεψουν οτι ενω η αδεια δοθηκε απο την Ανοιξη, κανεις απο τους ντοπιους στο Σαν Μαρτσελο δεν τους ανεφερε κατι. Το εμαθαν κατι τυχη το Δεκεμβριο!

In its first year of operation the residence is already popular and very comfortable for the visitor. Pascale told me that in spite of the nature of the local economy, there is still no framework of protection of the agricultural environment. A few months ago, an adjacent plot of land was sold to a photo-voltaic company, to build a relevant “farm”. As she was talking, I could not help thinking that such a permit would not be given in Chianti!   Pascale and Massimo will try to block the permit, but are stunned by the fact that during the months that have elapsed since, none of the locals has told them anything about it, and they had to find out by chance.

Πισω στα παραγομενα κρασια. Το λευκο σταφυλι ειναι Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, και το κοκκινο Lacrima di Morro d’Alba . Και τα δυο ειναι τοπικα και δεν καλλιεργουνται σε αλλες περιοχες της Ιταλιας. Το κυριως καταλυμα ειναι μια επισκευασμενη παληα αγροικια.  Ευχαριστω Πασκαλ και Μασσιμο, ελπιζω να σας ξαναδω την Ανοιξη!

In any case, they produce great wine, one red, Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, and one white, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Both grapes are local and I am already impressed by both. Thank you Pascale and Massimo, hope to see you in the near future!

Καθ’ οδον απο Σαν Μαρτσελο προς Παντσανο. Λιγο μετα την Perugia  φτανω στο Lago Trasimeno τη μεγαλυτερη λιμνη στην Ιταλικη χερσονησο, κατα τι μικροτερη απο την λιμνη Como.

It is now time to go to Panzano. A few kilometers after Perugia I have Lago Trasimeno on my left. It is the biggest lake of the Italian peninsula, a few square kilometers smaller than Lake Como in the North.

Η γεματη λοφους περιοχη Chianti, που παραγει το ομωνυμο κρασι, ειναι ενα φυσικο τοπιο που διατηρειται με θρησκευτικο ευλαβεια απο τους Τοσκανους. εν θα δεις φωτοβολταϊκα εδω! Και φωτοβαλταικα μεν δεν εχει, εχει ομως αρκετη ομιχλη και χιονι στην ακρη του δρομου.

The Chianti area, producing the wine with the same name, is a natural environment preserved with religious fervor by the locals. No chance of seeing photo-voltaic panels in the middle of the vineyards in Chianti! But I can see snow on the sides of the road and quite a bit of fog, even though it is already mid day.

Η κωμοπολη του Παντσανο στην καρδια του Κιαντι, ειναι ο προορισμος μου. Το μαγαζι του Νταριο ειναι στο κεντρο της πολης “Παλαιο Κρεοπωλειο Τσεκινι”.

Panzano is my final destination. On top of a small hill in Chianti, Panzano is the small town where Dario Cecchini has his butcher shop, “Antica Macelleria Cecchini”.

Δεν υπαρχουν τα πληθη των τουριστων επισκεπτων του καλοκαιριου. Ενας δυο ντοπιοι, μπαινουν και βγαινουν. Ο Νταριο ειναι μονος του στο μαγαζι. Η γυναικα του Νταριο, η Κιμ πεταξε το πρωι για Σαν Φρανσισκο και θα γυρισει σε ενα μηνα. Μετα την υποδοχη που οπως παντα ειναι εγκαρδια, παραδιδω στον Νταριο το δωρο που πηρα για την Κιμ, και εκεινον. Το βιβλιο του φωτογραφου McCabe Greece: Images of an Enchanted Land, 1954-1965.

There are no tourist’s crowds today in the shop. The clients are locals. Dario is attending the shop alone. His wife Kim flew the same morning to California to see her parents. After exchanging the first greetings, I present Dario the present I got for them. McCabe’s book of black and white photographs Greece: Images of an Enchanted Land, 1954-1965.

Οσοι δεν το εχετε δει, δειτε το στο συνδεσμο που εχω προς την Αμαζονα. Αξιζει τον κοπο. Για μενα ειναι ενα βιβλιο που πρεπει να εχει καθε Ελληνας (οχι εξ αιματος, αλλα εκ πολιτισμου).  Ο Νταριο ειναι ενθουσιασμενος. “Μου θυμιζει το ταξιδι μου στην Ελλαδα των Συνταγματαρχων το 1970” μου λεει.

Those of you who have not had a chance to see this book, have a look at it using the Amazon link. For me it is a valuable book that should be on the book shelf of every Greek (not by blood but by culture). Dario loves it. “It reminds me of the Greece I Saw back in the 70’s” he says.

Μια πελατισσα τελειωνει τα ψωνια της και ο Νταριο μου τη συστηνει. Ειναι η Μυριαμ, μια γυναικα απο την κωμοπολη. Μολις ακουει οτι ειμαι Ελληνας, ανοιγει την τσαντα της και βγαζει μια φωτοτυπια με το ποιημα του Καβαφη “Ιθακη” αποδομενο στα Ιταλικα.

A woman finishes her shopping and Dario introduces her to me. Her name is Myriam, and when she hears that I come from Greece she opens her purse and pulls out a photocopy of Cavafy’s Ithaca, translated in Italian. The culprit is Dario, who loves Cavafy and indoctrinates all of his friends and clients.

Και τωρα ωρα για δραση! Ο Νταριο αρχιζει την ετοιμασια της Αριστης, που ειναι χοιρινο ρολο με μυρωδικα της Τοσκανης, που θα ψηθει στο φουρνο.

And now, action time! Dario starts the preparation of Arista, which is rolled pork pancetta with Toscana spices.

Το πρωτο βημα ειναι αβαθεις επιμηκεις τομες στο δερμα, για να μπορεσει να τυλιχθει το κρεας.

Cut the skin on the long side so that the pancetta can be rolled.

Στο δευτερο βημα αλειφεται το κρεας με πολτο σκορδου.

Spread garlic pulp on the inside.

Το τριτο βημα περιλαμβανει θυμαρι και αλατοπιπερο.

Sprinkle thyme, salt and pepper.

Το τεταρτο βημα κλεινει την ετοιμασια με αφθονο δενδρολιβανο.

Finally, be generous with rosemary.

Τελος, τυλιγομε, δενομε και συσκευαζομε  για το μακρυνο ταξιδι. Ο Νταριο βαζει στο κουτι κι ενα βαζακι με αλατι, πιπερι και μυρωδικα της Τοσκανης, που νοστιμιζει ενα καλο κομματι κρεας χωρις να “σκοτωνει” τη γευση του και τα αρωματα του.

Roll, tie, pack neatly, for the long journey back to Greece. Dario adds a vase with salt, pepper and Tuscan spices, that add taste to the meat without overpowering it.

Η Αριστη της Τοσκανης εχει και μιαν ιστορια να τη συνοδευει. Το Ιανουαριο του 1439 μεταφερθηκε στη Φλωρεντια η Συνοδος της Φερραρα αναμεσα στη Δυτικη και την Ανατολικη Εκκλησια. Την Ανατολικη Εκκλησια εκπροσωπουσε αντιπροσωπεια της οποιας ηγειτο ο Πατριαρχης Ιωσηφ ο Δευτερος.

Arista of Tuscany, as the dish is known, has a legend following it. In January 1439, the Council of Ferrara between the West and East Christian Churches, was moved from Ferrara to Florence. The Eastern Church delegation was headed by the Patriarch Joesph II.

Σε ενα γευμα που παρεθεσαν οι Φλορεντινοι στους μετεχοντες, περιελαβαν την Αριστη. Αφου δοκιμασε ο Πατριαχης Ιωσηφ, κατα την παραδοση  σηκωθηκε, και ανεκραξε “Αριστος!” Εκτοτε το χοιρινο αυτο ρολο αναφερεται ως η Αριστη της Τοσκανης.

The hosts presented the Patriarch with a meal that included Arista. After the Patriarch tasted it, he rose and pronounced in a loud voice “Aristos”! meaning the best in Greek. Ever since, the dish is called “Arista Toscana”

Ο Νταριο οπως παντα ειναι και ενας εξοχος οικοδεσποτης, οποτε δεν μπορω να αρνηθω τρια απο τα εξαισια εδεσματα που ετοιμαζει καθε μερα στο εργαστηριο του.

Dario is in addition to everything else a great host, so after the preparation of the Arista, it is time to have a taste of his recipes.

Sushi del Chianti

Sushi del Chianti.

Αυτη η δημιουργια του Νταριο ειναι – οπως ολες – η αποθεωση της απλοτητας και της ποιοτητας της πρωτης υλης. Μοσχαρισιο κρεας αριστης ποιοτητας εχει κοπει με το μαχαιρι (ποτε απο τη μηχανη του κυμα) και αναμιχθει με ελαιολαδο και μυρωδικα ισα ισα για να σπασει η ευθυγραμμη γευση του κρεατος.

Raw veal cut with knife to a smooth soft pulp seasoned with slat, pepper and spices, with a touch of lemon zest.

Tuna (Tonno) del Chianti

Tuna (Tonno) del Chianti.

Εδω εχομε την αλλη ακρη της κλιμακας, χοιρινο μαγειρεμενο σιγα σιγα μεχρις οτου σχεδον λειωσει, και αποκτησει αυτη την υφη του τονου. Ειναι μια συνταγη που τη βρηκε ο Νταριο στην παραδοση και την επανεφερε με τον δικο του τροπο.

Dario found this traditional recipe and improved on it. This slowly cooked pork meat really tastes like tuna!

Cosimino (Meatloaf)

Cosimino (Meatloaf).

Το ρολο απο χοιρινο κιμα ειναι μια αρμονια αρωματων, αφου ο Νταριο εχει βαλει ολη του την τεχνη να φτιαξει κατι εξαιρετικα νοστιμο.

And the famous meatloaf, a real delight!

Ολα τα καλα ομως εχουν το τελος τους, κι ετσι ειμαι παλι στο δρομο για την επιστροφη, αφου υποσχεθηκα στον Νταριο οτι θα επιστρεψω τον Αυγουστο.

As always in life, the good things do not last very long, it is time to go, having promised to Dario that I will be back in August.

Το υπεροχωτατο Σουπερφαστ 11 δεμενο στην Ανκονα, ετοιμο για το περασμα απεναντι. Μονο που δεν ηξερα οτι ειχε 10 μποφωρ μεχρι την Κερκυρα. Μετα το τρελλο ταρακουνημα η Ηγουμενιτσα νυσταγμενη ακομη μας υποδεχεται.

The superb Superfast XI ready to sail from the port of Ancona. The only thing I did know was that there were winds of 10 in the beaufort scale from Ancona all the way to Igoumenitsa. After all the crazy dancing on the waves, Igoumenitsa greets us.

Με τρεις ωρες καθυστερηση, ταλαιπωρημενοι και κουνημενοι για τα καλα, φθανομε στον Κορινθιακο .

With three hours of delay, shaken and stirred like a good James Bond Martini, we enter the Corinthian Gulf.

Ο αερας δεν ειναι τοσο εντονος, και η θερμοκρασια ειναι στους 15 βαθμους.

The winds are now between 6 and 8 on the beaufort scale, and temperature around 15 degrees.

Τελειωνει η επιστροφη με το τελευταιο σκελος, Πατρα – Αθηνα. Ο δρομος σχετικα αδειος, ειναι πια παραμονη Χριστουγεννων. Το μαγειρεμα και το τραπεζι της Αριστας ακολουθουν σε επομενη αναρτηση.

I am almost there! I only need to travel the 221 km from Patras to Athens. The road is almost empty, the weather is fine. The preparation of the “Arista” meal will follow in a separate post.

Ευχομαι τα καλυτερα σε ολους του περαστικους απο εδω, το ατελιε που τοχουμε βαφτισει.

I wish to all the visitors of the blog a Happy and Creative New Year!

Heidegger-weg (Heidegger's Path) – Part I

(according to Heidegger)

“The whole history of philosophy is just an endless variation of the Greeks’ theme ,

which is the theme of the Being itself. “

Jean Beaufret, 1974

This post started as a description of my journey to Martin Heidegger’s hometown and mountain resort.

On the way it changed, it grew. The physical dimension and elements are now interlaced with a journey through time, and through the philosophical space. I published it in 2010, and edited it in 2019.

The material outgrew the confines of a  post and I had to split it in two parts, the first ending nominally with the second world war.

This journey is a tribute to the great modern philosopher and his work.

As a man, Heidegger was quite a controversial figure on many fronts. I touch upon some of them, but the post cannot exhaust them or cover them in any way approaching completeness.

Martin and Elfride Heidegger’s grave in the Messkirch Cemetery

Εκ του τελους αρχεσθαι.

The beginning is the end.

“If I take death into my life, acknowledge it, and face it squarely, I will free myself from the anxiety of death and the pettiness of life – and only then will I be free to become myself.” MH

Martin Heidegger died in 1976 in Freiburg, and was burried in the cemetery of his hometown, Messkirch.

The beginning of my Heidegger physical journey was the small town of Messkirch, in Baden – Wurttemberg, near the Black Forest, where Martin Heidegger was born in 1889.

Heidegger’s father, Friedrich, was a carpenter. His mother Johanna, née Kempf, was a house wife. They were a family of poor means, who could not afford to send Martin to the university. Therefore, they enrolled him to a Jesuit Seminary.

Young Martin did not stay in the Seminar.  In 1909 he “escaped” and went to the University of Freiburg, where he studied theology and philosophy.

In 1917 he marries Elfride Petri who will remain his supporting wife until his death.

Some of the Heidegger scholars claim that his wife was very close to the Nazis and the NSDP and influenced him in making the worst decisions of his life.

Edmund Husserl – Photo courtesy of the Heidegger Museum in Messkirch

From 1919 to 1923 he served as an assistant to Professor Edmund Husserl at the University of Freiburg.

Heidegger developed Husserl’s phenomenology in a new direction. He shifted the emphasis from the meaning of consiousness to the meaning of Breing.  Husserl’s epistemological question “What does it mean to know?” is transformed into the question “What does it mean to Be?” in Heidegger’s conception.

Heidegger opposes the Husserlian claim that a person’s relation to the world and the things in it must be mediated by something in the person’s mind: beliefs, desires, experiences, etc. — what philosophers call “intentional content.” As he puts it:

“The idea of a subject which has intentional experiences . . . encapsulated within itself is an absurdity which misconstrues the basic ontological structure of the being that we ourselves are.”

After Heidegger became a Professor at the University of Freiburg, the relationship of the two men deteriorated and eventually broke down completely.

Husserl died in 1938. Heidegger did not attend his funeral. According to some people in Heidegger’s close circle, he considered this “absence” from his mentor’s funeral to be one of the great errors of his life.

In 1922 Elfride gave Martin as present the wood cabin (Hutte) in Todtnauberg, where she was going for skiing. This cabin became Heidegger’s refuge, the calm place to go and think, write and meet some people.

In Paul Celan’s poem “Todtnauberg”, written in 1967 after his visit to the cabin, the Sternwürfel, the wooden cube above Heidegger’s well (resembling a Mallarmean die in “Un coup de dès”), is metonymically linked by its star design to the yellow arnica flower, viewed as the Jewish star.

The Cabin in late October 

In 1923 he was elected professor a the University of Marburg, where he stayed until 1928.

Heidegger turned the Western Philosophy upside down, starting with Descartes, who considered that the human being is a mind located in a meterial body. Heidegger asserted that the human existence is a happening, a process that welds the human to the World.

For Heidegger, there is not mind, body, and world, but Dasein in-the-world, as a ‘unitary phenomenon’.

For Descartes, space is a matter of abstract mathematical coordinates and calculations in which things are located and move about; for Heidegger, space is how Dasein experiences things.

Heidegger’s determination to break out of the philosophical tradition is focused in his attempt to get beyond the subject/object distinction.

In 1924 he met Hannah Arendt, with whom he had an affair until 1926 , when she left Marburg University to go to Heidelberg and study under Karl Jaspers. Arendt is a key person in Heidegger’s life, as she became one of his strongest supporters when he was accused of being a Nazi. She referred to this as a personal “error”.

His next major affair after Hannah Arendt was with Elisabeth Blochmann, who was also studying at Marburg. It must be noted that with the recent publication of the letters between Martin and Elfriede Heidegger in 2005 did it become known that the Heidegger marriage was an “open” one, in that Elfriede likewise had affairs, including one with the family doctor who fathered her first son, Hermann Heidegger.

In 1927, Heidegger publishes “Sein und Zeit”, “Time and Being”, his unfinished masterpiece, and dedicates it to his Professor, Edmund Husserl.

Most of it was written in the Todtnauberg cabin.

In its original design, Being and Time would have two parts, each part comprising three divisions.

As published, the book covered only the first two divisions of Part One.

The third division of Part One is now considered to be covered by the “The Basic Problems of Phenomenology”, and the first part of Division Two by “Kant and the Problem of Metaphysics” (see below”.

Divisions two and three of Part Two are essentially covered by  “The Basic Problems of Phenomenology”.

In this sense, the original design of Being and Time has been completed, albeit in an indirect way.

Within a few years, this book was recognized as a truly epoch-making work of the 20th century philosophy.

In 1928 Heidegger is appointed Professor at the University of reiburg, succeeding Husserl.

In 1929 Heidegger delivers his important inaugural lecture, What Is Metaphysics

and publishes his famous bookKant and the Problem of Metaphysics.

In the Spring of 1933, April 21, Heidegger is appointed Rector of the University and joins the NSDAP.

Heidegger attending a celebration at the University of Freiburg

On May 3, 1933 he joined the NSDAP party. On May 27, 1933 he delivered his inaugural rector’s address on “The Self-Affirmation of the German University,” whose ambiguous text is frequently interpreted as an expression of his support of Hitler’s regime.

His spell as a Rector is short lived. He resigns on the 23rd April 1934.

He is the first Rector to resign under NSDAP rule.

His inaugural rector’s address was found incompatible with the party line and its text was eventually banned by the Nazis.

In his lectures of the late 1930s and the early 1940s, especially those which he gave during the period in which he was writing Contributions to Philosophy, some claim that he expressed covert criticism of Nazi ideology. Heidegger says in the SPIEGEL interview:

“After I resigned from the rectorate, I retreated back to my task as teacher. In the summer semester 1934 I lectured on “Logic.” In the following semester, 1934/35, I gave the first lecture on Hölderlin. The lectures on Nietzsche began in 1936. All of those who could hear heard that this was a confrontation with National Socialism.”

The entrance to the Heidegger Museum in Messkirch

For some time he was under surveillance of Gestapo. He was finally humiliated in 1944 when he was declared the most “expendable” member of the faculty and sent to the Rhine to dig trenches. Heidegger reminisces:

The Spiegel Interview

“In the last year of the war, five hundred of the most eminent scholars and artists were exempted from any kind of military service. I was not one of those who were exempted. On the contrary, in the summer of 1944 I was ordered to dig trenches over near the Rhine, on the Kaiserstuhl.” (The SPIEGEL Interview).

I cannot of course cover this issue completely and even more, offer any explanations or assertions to the truth.

A lot of books have been written, heated debates taken place, and this will go on.

In my humble view, there is no doubt that Heidegger flirted with NSDAP in 1933,and failed miserably. He resigned from the Rector’s position and never resumed a position of power or influence. The way he rationalized this is of no interest to me. His work remained at large untainted by the Nazi rubbish and poison. There are slips here and there, but he recovers quickly and never returns to the fallacies.

The path through the fields in Messkirch

What I find extremely important though is that in his Spiegel interview, and earlier, Heidegger has never said anything about the Holocaust. I cannot reconcile the fact that he mentions that he was sent to dig trenches, but says nothing about the gas chambers.

It appears that the “Nationalist” Heidgger could not come to terms with the “Deutsches Volk” behaving like murderers out of control.

One of the things I would like to do in the future is to research Heidegger’s views on “race”. But this is for the future.

A sign on MH’s bench

Heidegger was attached to his homeland. When in Messkirch, he would go for a walk in a path crossing the fields, for which the German word is Feldweg.

Today the path is still there, but the bench where Heidegger used to sit and work is gone. Only a label on a tree informs the visitor that the bench was there in the past.

Messkirch is a sleepy town in the middle of nowhere. It is a town that appears to have disowned its son, Martin Heidegger. It appears like Heideger is covered by a cover of guilt and oblivion.

“Anxiety as the superlative disclosure leads Dasein to an authentic

awareness of essential finitude of human existence, and hence serves

as the foundation for the possibility of authentic existence in its intrinsic

relation to the anticipation of death.” MH

This post contnues in “Part II”.