Panorama Restaurant in Castella, Piraeus, Greece – Εστιατόριο Πανόραμα στην Καστέλλα

At the top of the Castella hill in Piraeus, Panorama serves fresh fish and seafood at reasonable prices. The view is stunning, the atmosphere relaxed. One of the hidden gems of Greek Cuisine.

Crabmeat with avocado – Καβουρόψυχα με αβοκάντο
Marinated anchovy – Γαύρος ξιδάτος

Boiled octopus – Χταποδάκι βραστό
Fish Soup – Ψαρόσουπα

Fried Crayfish Tails – Καραβιδόψυχα τηγανητή

Fried calamari – Καλαμάρι τηγανητό

Grilled Red Mullet – Ψητό Μπαρμπούνι
Boiled Stira, a member of the grouper family of fishes – Στήρα βραστη

Πράσινες πιπεριές γεμιστές με ρύζι, παντζάρι και κόκκινη πιπεριά

Το καλοκαίρι στην Ελλάδα θέλει γεμιστά.

Σήμερα βρήκα στον μανάβη υπέροχες πράσινες πιπεριές, παντζάρια, και πράσινα μυρωδικά που σπάγανε τη μύτη. Επειδή μου αρέσουν πολύ τα παντζάρια, και έχουν και πολλές ευεργετικές επιδράσεις στον οργανισμό, σχεδόν στα πάντα, η ιδέα γεννήθηκε αυθόρμητα αλλά και φυσιολογικά. Θα μαγειρέψω γεμιστές πιπεριές με παντζάρι.


Υλικά
6 πράσινες μεγάλες πιπεριές
6 φλυτζάνια ψιλοκομμένα ξερά κρεμμύδια
2 φλυτζάνια τριμμένα παντζάρια (στον χοντρό τρίφτη)
1 φλυτζάνι ψιλοκομμένη κόκκινη πιπεριά Φλωρίνης
2 βολβοί τουρσί
6 σκελίδες σκόρδο πολτοποιημένες
2 φλυτζάνια ρύζι καρολίνα
½ φλυτζάνι ψιλοκομμένο μαϊντανό
½ φλυτζάνι ψιλοκομμένο άνηθο
½ φλυτζάνι ψιλοκομμένο βασιλικό
½ φλυτζάνι ψιλοκομμένο δυόσμο
1 κουταλάκι τσαγιού μπούκοβο
3 κουταλάκια τσαγιού χοντρό αλάτι
6 μέτριες πατάτες, κομμένες σε μικρά κομμάτια
1 φλυτζάνι ελαιόλαδο

Τα λαδερά γεμιστά τουρκιστί λέγονται «γιαλαντζί ντολμά».

Η Μαριάννα Γερασίμου στο βιβλίο της «Η Οθωμανική Μαγειρική» μας θυμίζει κάτι που έλεγαν οι Αρμένιοι αρχιμάγειροι: «Όταν μαγειρεύεις γιαλαντζί ντολμά, δεν θα λυπηθείς το λάδι, κλείσε τα μάτια και άδειασε του.»

Παρασκευή
Η παρασκευή της γέμισης είναι απλή, αλλά χρειάζεται προσοχή. Στην αρχή τσιγαρίζουμε τα κρεμμύδια με το σκόρδο έως ότι το κρεμμύδι πάρει ένα χρυσαφί χρώμα. Μετά προσθέουμε το τριμμένο ωμό παντζάρι και ανακατεύουμε καλά. Το παντζάρι δεν το μαγειρεύουμε πριν το βάλουμε στο μείγμα της γέμισης. Αφαιρούμε τα φλούδια του βολβού και μετά τον περνάμε από τον χοντρό τρίφτη.
Αφού αναμιχθεί καλά το παντζάρι, προσθέτουμε όλα τα άλλα υλικά στο μείγμα και αφήνουμε να κρυώσει λίγο. Γεμίζουμε τις πιπεριές, προσθέτουμε τις πατάτες στο ταψί. Ψήνουμε στους 200 βαθμούς για 1 ώρα.


Σερβίρισμα
Οι πιπεριές πρέπει να ξεκουραστούν για περίπου 30 λεπτά πριν τις σερβίρουμε.
Τι πίνουμε: Το πιάτο πάει και με δροσερή μπίρα και με δροσερό άσπρο κρασί όπως η μαλαγουζιά, ή ένα ροζέ.

An earthy dish worthy ten times its cost: lentils with sauteed cauliflower and chorizo

Following the excesses of the holidays, it is time to turn our back to the rich food and enjoy a dish that features the flavors of the earth in all of its simplicity, accentuated by the venerable taste super booster of Spanish chorizo from Salamanca.

The dish is very simple in its preparation.

First you cook the lentils. I am Greek, cooking in Greece and use the lentils from the Thessaly region of Farsala. They are excellent in quality, cook well and do not leave a neutral aftertaste.

lentils_cauliflower_det3.jpg

Place sun dried tomatoes, hot green or red peppers and pickled garlic cloves in a deep pan, cover with boiling water and add a couple of table spoons of olive oil, lentils and salt. Let the mix boil until the water has almost evaporated. This should not take more than 45 minutes. Turn the heat off and let the lentils rest. Taste to make sure that they have been cooked without becoming a mush.

Oil a large frying pan and add sliced fresh cauliflower and a bit of salt and pepper. Turn occasinally so that the cauliflower slices develop a dark brown complexion that is the source of taste and good vibrations. Be careful not to overcook. The cauliflower must be tasty and crunchy at the same time.

lentils_cauliflower_served.jpg

Once the cauliflower is done, lower the heat and add on top of it thin slides of chorizo. I used a piece of chorizo I got from Salamanca. If you do not have chorizo, add some spicy saucage. Let it cook for a couple of minutes, then turn the heat off and let it rest in the pan ultil serving.

I serve the ingredients side by side, and accompany with a bottle of GENESIS ROSÉ 2019 made by KECHRIS WINERY. It is a mix of Gewurztraminer and Xinomavro and i suits the flavor bouquet perfectly.

You might want to sprinkle some apple vinegar on the dish, to increase its acidity. I do it, and it tastes really good.

lentils_cauliflower_det2.jpg

 

 

Top Gastronomic Destination in Greece: Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant in Mikrolimano, Piraeus

I visited Papaioannou’s Fish and Seafood Restaurant in Mikrolimano, Piraeus, on a busy Sunday lunch time. The maitre D informed us that due to the holidays the variety of dishes is not as wide as it usually is. This was a most welcome first sign of the attention the restaurant pays to the quality of its ingredients. What followed confirmed this in the most positive way. Papaioannou Restaurant is a top gastronomic destination in Greece.

Sea Urchin Eggs – Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Sea urchin eggs.We started with the eggs in their own natural juices and nothing else. No salt, no lemon, no olive oil. As it should be. As mother nature gave it to us.

The accompanying drink was ouzo. If you do not like ouzo, you may try tsipouro, or a dry white wine with high acidity, like asyrtico.

Red mullet sashimi. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Red mullet sashimi followed. It needed no dressing whatsoever. But eating an olive and a leaf of rocket after tasting the fish was sensational.

Cray fish tartare. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Crayfish tartare.This is by far the best crayfish dish I have ever tasted. You cannot imagine the sweetness, the kindnes of the flesh as it unleashes its flavours in the unuspecting and unprepared oral cavity. It is so captivating that it continues to unravel its magic until it has reached the lower depths of the oropharynx.

Fried baby cuttlefish. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Fried baby cuttlefish. The flesh melts in your mouth, while the crispy ink explodes in in millions of parcels of pleasure. Infinity as a sensation must be this bombardment of the taste buds by these agents of hedonism.

Grilled squid. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled squid sweet as sin cand tender as desire ame next. The chef had given it just a touch of olive oil for the grill, and a light sprinkle of salt. It needed nothing else. No lemon, no extra salt.

Grilled grouper. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled grouper.The flesh is moist, gelatinous, full of the aromas of the sea, soft yet firm. Eating in Papaioannou is not just an experience, it is an adventure. Dear reader, plase take a second to note that there is no dressing whatsoever on the fish, just the salt the chef put on it while on the grill. This is not an ommission, it is a deliberate act. No dresing is nedded! Because it will distort the gastronomi message, muffle the sounds of hedone emanating from the body and mind of the patron.

Grilled red mullet filet. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled red mullet filet.It must be very few people on this planet who can perfect the grilling of red mullet’s skin to a degree that it complements the juicy succulent flesh in a way that makes one believe in miracles. At the end of the day, metaphysics must have a physical grounding, and it might very well be this dish.

Fried red mullet filets. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Fried red mullet filet. The chef, George Papaioannou has a reputation for frying fish to perfection. He lived up to it. The filet of flesh was melting in the mouth, releasing all the flavours of the red mullet’s skin. And as always with fresh fish, a sweetness enveloped every sensation in the silky delusion of never ending pleasure.

Grilled sea bream. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled sea bream. It was time to return to reality and the grilled sea bream pulled it through.

Grilled Mediterranean Slipper Lobster (Kolochtypa). Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

The grilled mediterraneam slipper lobster (kolochtypa) ended the feast. This was an ode to the endless adventure of texture interweaved with flavour.

As I now recover from the flood of sensory stimuli that was mercilely unleashed against my cells I can say without any hesitation that Papaioannou is quite possibly the best fish and seafood restaurant in Greece today.

In addition to the food, service is top class. The team is professional, friendly and efficient.

The location in Mikrolimano is ideal for a long lunch. We spent something like 4 hours and enjoyed all variations of light on the sky and the sea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sea Urchin Egg Risotto: a dish by Lefteris Lazarou – Ριζότο με αυγά αχινού: ένα πιάτο του Λευτέρη Λαζάρου

Η καλή μαγειρική είναι εκείνη που στοχεύει σε κάτι που το ξέρει καλά  και το πετυχαίνει πάντα. Καλή μαγειρική είναι η κουζίνα της γιαγιάς, της μαμάς, της Λωξάντρας, και πάει λέγοντας. Οι αποτυχίες στην καλή μαγειρική είναι λίγες.

Good cooking aims always at something that is well known and it achieves it all the times. This is the cooking of the grandmother, mother, and so on. Failures in this cooking are rare and nobody remembers them.

Η υψηλή μαγειρική (haute cuisine) είναι πάνω απ’ όλα τα άλλα η επιδίωξη του τέλειου, με την επίγνωση ότι κάτι τέτοιο είναι ανέφικτο. Οι αποτυχίες στην υψηλή μαγειρική είναι ο κανόνας. Είναι μια μάνα που τρώει τα παιδιά της. Για τον λόγο αυτό κάθε πιάτο υψηλής μαγειρικής είναι και μια ευκαιρία να πανηγυρίσουμε να αποθεώσουμε τον μάγειρα, και να σπεύσουμε να γευθούμε κάτι που είναι εφήμερο αλλά και παντοτινό. Γιατί η μνήμη του δεν σβήνει.

Haute cuisine, on the other hand, is the pursuit of perfection, with the full knowledge that it is unattainable. Failures are the rule in haute cuisine, it is a mother that kills its children. It is for this reason that every successful dish of haute cuisine makes me jubilant and I prooceed to taste it both in its transience and its eternity. Because its memory never fades away.

Σήμερα παρουσιάζω ένα πιάτο υψηλής μαγειρικής, που έφτιαξε ο Λευτέρης Λαζάρου και είχα την τύχη να γευθώ στο «Βαρούλκο».

Today I present a haute cuisine dish prepared by Chef Lefteris Lazarou in his “Varoulko” restaurant near Piraeus.

Varoulko Restaurant. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Από την περιγραφή φαίνεται το απλούστερο των απλών. Ριζότο με αυγά αχινού. Τα φαινόμενα όμως απατούν. Όσο απλούστερο πιάτο, τόσο μικρότερα τα περιθώρια για να κρυφτεί ο μάγειρας πίσω από εξωτικά υλικά και σύγχρονες τεχνικές όπως οι αφροί που κατακλύζουν τόσα και τόσα πιάτα. Ο μινιμαλισμός είναι ο χειρότερος εχθρός της «δήθεν» υψηλής μαγειρικής.

If one looks at the description of the dish, she might be misled by its simplicity. However, the simpler the dish, the less room the chef has to hide, behind exotic ingredients and modern techniques, like covering the dish with foam. Minimalism is the arch enemy of the supposedly haute cuisine.

‘Ας δούμε τις δυσκολίες του πιάτου.

Καταρχάς το ριζότο από μόνο του είναι μια πρόκληση. Το να φτιάξεις ένα καλό ριζότο είναι δύσκολο. Κυρίως επειδή πρέπει να σεβαστείς το ρύζι και να μην προσθέσεις τόσες άλλες γεύσεις που εξαφανίζουν τη γεύση του ρυζιού, ξεκινώντας από το απλούστερο όλων, το αλάτι, και συνεχίζοντας με τον ζωμό θαλασσινών και λαχανικών μέσα στον οποίο γίνεται το ριζότο. Πρόσφατα γεύθηκα ένα ριζότο σε γνωστό εστιατόριο, που είχε καταφέρει να εξαφανίσει τη γεύση του ρυζιού, χρησιμοποιώντας ένα ζωμό δυναμίτη που αναισθητοποιούσε τον ουρανίσκο.

Let us identify the difficulties of the dish.

To start with, making a risotto is a challenge by  itself, because you must respect the rice and not make it disappear behind other tastes like salt, and the broth. I recently tasted a risotto in a Michelin starred restaurant of Athens, in which the broth was so strong that had exterminated the taste of the rice.

Varoulko Restaurant – Sea urchin risotto. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Προσθέτοντας τα αυγά αχινού, αυτό το έδεσμα εδεσμάτων, καθιστά το πιάτο σχεδόν αδύνατο. Μιλάμε για την μεταξένια υφή τους, που τόσο εύκολα καταστρέφεται, μιλάμε για τα αρώματα που τόσο γρήγορα χάνονται στις γειτονιές των πιο ισχυρών.

Adding the sea urchin eggs, this delight of delights, makes the dish almost impossible. How are you ging to respect its texture and the flavor that is so subtle?

Όλα αυτά δεν αποτελούν εμπόδιο για τον Λευτέρη Λαζάρου, που στο πιάτο αυτό μεγαλουργεί.   Οι ισορροπίες γεύσεων που πετυχαίνει είναι αξιοθαύμαστες. Τα καταφέρνει να συνυπάρχουν αρμονικά το ρύζι με τον αχινό, διατηρώντας το καθένα την προσωπικότητα του.

None of these difficulties tames Chef Lazarou, who comes out victorious. He manages to add the sea urchin eggs to the dish in such a way that they retain their velvety texture and flavor.

Ο σεβασμός στην πρώτη ύλη είναι εντυπωσιακός. Προσέξτε τα αυγά του αχινού. Είναι τόσο «ζωντανά» και ακέραια σα να βγήκανε από το κέλυφος μόλις τώρα. Καμία σχέση με  τα ταλαιπωρημένα και διαλυμένα συναφή που μοιάζουν με αποτυχημένη καροτόσουπα.

Have a look at the photo below. The eggs are alive!

Varoulko Restaurant – Sea urchin risotto. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Το πιάτο είναι και χάρμα οφθαλμών. Το χρυσαφένιο ριζότο με την τερακότα του αχινού και τα φυλλαράκια άγριας ρόκας συνθέτουν μια «νεκρή φύση» αντάξια των μεγάλων καλλιτεχνών των ελληνιστικών χρόνων. Το φαντάζομαι σε ψηφιδωτό σε βίλλα του Ερκολάνο, δίπλα στην βιβλιοθήκη με τους παπύρους του Επίκουρου.

In addition to the taste, the dish is colorful and a delight of the eye. It could become a painting and decorate a villa near Ercolano.

Μια επίσκεψη στο «Βαρούλκο» αξίζει και μόνο για αυτό το πιάτο, που πανάξια ανήκει στην υψηλή Μεσογειακή κουζίνα.

Visit Varoulko to taste this dish, but call ahead, as it is not on the menu every day.

 

Seafood in the Arabesque Restaurant of Jerusalem’s American Colony Hotel

David Dides is the Executive Chef of the Arabesque Restaurant in American Colony, a beautiful hotel in Jerusalem.  I visited the restaurant recently and enjoyed seafood in the middle of winter. David is very fond of the sea, having Greek roots.

trout
Sea trout tartar on a bed of cracked wheat, served with artichoke alla Judea

The first dish was a sea trout tartar, on a bed of cracked wheat, served with an ostrich’s egg, capers, fresh greens and fried artichoke, “alla Judea”. The trout was so sweet, it needed the capers to counter the flavor.  This was the case until I tasted the artichoke. It was a powerhouse of salty and acid flavors and when combined with the trout it lifted the dish to heights I could not have imagined. The cracked wheat offered the best neutral background to the symphony of flavors of the dish.

barbounia
Sultan ibrahim fillets on a risotto with saffron bed

The second dish was something tasty and extremely light. Red mullet fillets fried “tempura style” and served on a bed of a light risotto with saffron and gentle spices. Before I describe the dish, I would like to note that “red mullet” is known as “Sultan ibrahim” in the middle east, apparently because it was the Sultan’s favorite dish.    I may not be a Sultan (in my current incarnation) but I also like red mullets, and David’s dish is now one of my absolute favorites. First of all, the tempura was executed in a perfect way, making the fillets soft, juicy, delicious and light, very light. The risotto complemented the fillets in a subtle way, without overpowering the taste of the fish. Another interesting aspect  of the dish was the slices of fresh orange, which provided enough acidity to counter the “oily” touch of the tempura.

Thank you David, I will return.

 

 

First day of the year 2016 – Lunch

 

snow

The day started with snow on the ground and the trees, the bushes, the table, the umbrella, and so on.

The concept of this menu was developed by my alter ego, Niccolo Spiro Salvatore Domenico Francesco Morosini. I confess I have an affinity to the Venetian Republic, la Serenissima, Florence, and Italy in general.

bread
Home made bread

Home baked bread

Made with flour from the region of Macedonia, Drama.

salami

Smoked salami from Corfu

There are still some artisans producing delicious food. This salami is spicy and rich. The best antipasto for a cold day. I can see the traces of the influence of Venetian rule on the island of Corfu. Corfu has never been ruled by the Ottoman Turks.

olives

Olives from Amfissa

I served two types, the juicy salty big ones, and the sweet wrinkled (hamades), the ones made from olives that have fallen on the ground and not picked.   Amfissa is a provincial city 10 km away from Delphi. The breathtaking valley of olive trees that you see from Delphi belongs to the area of Amfissa. That’s where the olives come from.

cabbage

Rolled Cabbage with pork sausage cooked in duck fat

I had some sausages from the Basque country and used them as filling in the cabbage rolls. I served them with a light sauce of coriander and lemon juice.

sauage

The sausage and duck fat were produced by the artisan ANNE ROZES on France, Basque Country. The cabbage is locally produced in Marathon, and it is like silk. Very tender, sweet, the perfect companion to duck fat.

baked.jpg

Tourte with Ewe

I roasted the ewe, cut it to small cubes and then marinated it in a mix of herbs and spices. The tradition of preparing a tourte with meat comes from the island of Crete, another place in Greece that has been ruled by the Venetian Republic.

served1

Cheeses

Both the fresh cheese and the Gruyere come form the island of Crete.

cheeses

New Year’s Gateau

A traditional gateau of the north of Greece, with butter, flour, eggs and lemon zest.

gateau

Wines 
Patrimo, 2001
Feudi di San Gregorio

La Poderina
Poggio Banale 1997
Brunello di Montalcino

Champagne Laurent – Perrier
BRUT

 

Bacalao the Magnificent

 

 

 

cod

 

A selection of some of the best bacalao dishes I have tasted, published as a photo story in storehouse.

Stuffed tomatoes and peppers with minced meat and pig’s skin – Ντοματες και πιπεριες γεμιστες με κιμα

Some time ago I wrote about a dish that is highly satisfying: peppers stuffed with rice.

Tomatoes and Peppers ready to be stuffed
Tomatoes and Peppers ready to be stuffed

Today I write about a variation of the dish: I added tomatoes to the peppers, and the filling is minced beef and diced pig’s skin.

Pig's Skin
Pig’s Skin

The magic ingredient of the filling is pig’s skin. It gives flavour and texture to the filling.

I fry it before I mix it with the meat.

Filling with minced beef, pig's skin and bulgur wheat
Filling with minced beef, pig’s skin and bulgur wheat

I add to the mix some bulgur wheat to absorb the moisture, dill weed, dry and fresh onions and parsely.

Ready to bake
Ready to bake

After stuffing the peppers and tomatoes, I bake in 220 C for 50 minutes.

Baked and ready to serve
Baked and ready to serve

This dish is never served hot. It needs to rest for at least one hour before serving.

Served
Served

Delicious homemade bread is a flavour and pleasure booster, so here it is.

Homemade bread
Homemade bread

And a nice improvised pudding to complete a good meal, and seal a good English-Greek get together.

Pudding
Improvised Pudding

Asta la vista Compañeros!

Crispy Stuffed Zucchini Flowers

With considerable delay, I publish today one of the absolute delicacies: crispy stuffed zucchini flowers.

Zucchini flowers to die for!
Zucchini flowers to die for!

It is November, Christmas is coming, and I dream of the Summer and its delicacies!

The whole secret is to have the super freshest of zucchini, cut from the vegetable garden a split second ago!

Time is important, in case you have not noticed, not only in what we do, but also in how we prepare our food. 

Mizythra with coriander and mint
Myzithra with coriander and mint

I stuff the flowers with a soft white cheese mix. I use myzithra from Crete, add salt and pepper and some chopped coriander and mint.

Fresh ricotta would also have been perfect for the dish.

Dusted with flour
Dusted with flour

After stuffing the flowers I dip them in water and dust them with flour before dipping into the batter mix.

Bubbly batter does it!
Bubbly batter does it!

The batter has to be full of bubbles! A bubbly batter does it! Stir vigorously until you have the bubbles that will give lightness to the batter.

Crispy stuffed zucchini flowers served
Crispy stuffed zucchini flowers served

Served and ready to be enjoyed!

Crispy stuffed zucchini flower sliced and ready to be enjoyed - please use your hands!!!
Crispy stuffed zucchini flower sliced and ready to be enjoyed – please use your hands!!!

I slice them in two halves with a knife, and subsequently eat them with my hands. Totally different sensation.

sliced2

I do not know about you, but I am good for a little more!