Panorama Restaurant in Castella, Piraeus, Greece – Εστιατόριο Πανόραμα στην Καστέλλα

At the top of the Castella hill in Piraeus, Panorama serves fresh fish and seafood at reasonable prices. The view is stunning, the atmosphere relaxed. One of the hidden gems of Greek Cuisine.

Crabmeat with avocado – Καβουρόψυχα με αβοκάντο
Marinated anchovy – Γαύρος ξιδάτος

Boiled octopus – Χταποδάκι βραστό
Fish Soup – Ψαρόσουπα

Fried Crayfish Tails – Καραβιδόψυχα τηγανητή

Fried calamari – Καλαμάρι τηγανητό

Grilled Red Mullet – Ψητό Μπαρμπούνι
Boiled Stira, a member of the grouper family of fishes – Στήρα βραστη

Top Gastronomic Destination in Greece: Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant in Mikrolimano, Piraeus

I visited Papaioannou’s Fish and Seafood Restaurant in Mikrolimano, Piraeus, on a busy Sunday lunch time. The maitre D informed us that due to the holidays the variety of dishes is not as wide as it usually is. This was a most welcome first sign of the attention the restaurant pays to the quality of its ingredients. What followed confirmed this in the most positive way. Papaioannou Restaurant is a top gastronomic destination in Greece.

Sea Urchin Eggs – Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Sea urchin eggs.We started with the eggs in their own natural juices and nothing else. No salt, no lemon, no olive oil. As it should be. As mother nature gave it to us.

The accompanying drink was ouzo. If you do not like ouzo, you may try tsipouro, or a dry white wine with high acidity, like asyrtico.

Red mullet sashimi. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Red mullet sashimi followed. It needed no dressing whatsoever. But eating an olive and a leaf of rocket after tasting the fish was sensational.

Cray fish tartare. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Crayfish tartare.This is by far the best crayfish dish I have ever tasted. You cannot imagine the sweetness, the kindnes of the flesh as it unleashes its flavours in the unuspecting and unprepared oral cavity. It is so captivating that it continues to unravel its magic until it has reached the lower depths of the oropharynx.

Fried baby cuttlefish. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Fried baby cuttlefish. The flesh melts in your mouth, while the crispy ink explodes in in millions of parcels of pleasure. Infinity as a sensation must be this bombardment of the taste buds by these agents of hedonism.

Grilled squid. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled squid sweet as sin cand tender as desire ame next. The chef had given it just a touch of olive oil for the grill, and a light sprinkle of salt. It needed nothing else. No lemon, no extra salt.

Grilled grouper. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled grouper.The flesh is moist, gelatinous, full of the aromas of the sea, soft yet firm. Eating in Papaioannou is not just an experience, it is an adventure. Dear reader, plase take a second to note that there is no dressing whatsoever on the fish, just the salt the chef put on it while on the grill. This is not an ommission, it is a deliberate act. No dresing is nedded! Because it will distort the gastronomi message, muffle the sounds of hedone emanating from the body and mind of the patron.

Grilled red mullet filet. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled red mullet filet.It must be very few people on this planet who can perfect the grilling of red mullet’s skin to a degree that it complements the juicy succulent flesh in a way that makes one believe in miracles. At the end of the day, metaphysics must have a physical grounding, and it might very well be this dish.

Fried red mullet filets. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Fried red mullet filet. The chef, George Papaioannou has a reputation for frying fish to perfection. He lived up to it. The filet of flesh was melting in the mouth, releasing all the flavours of the red mullet’s skin. And as always with fresh fish, a sweetness enveloped every sensation in the silky delusion of never ending pleasure.

Grilled sea bream. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled sea bream. It was time to return to reality and the grilled sea bream pulled it through.

Grilled Mediterranean Slipper Lobster (Kolochtypa). Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

The grilled mediterraneam slipper lobster (kolochtypa) ended the feast. This was an ode to the endless adventure of texture interweaved with flavour.

As I now recover from the flood of sensory stimuli that was mercilely unleashed against my cells I can say without any hesitation that Papaioannou is quite possibly the best fish and seafood restaurant in Greece today.

In addition to the food, service is top class. The team is professional, friendly and efficient.

The location in Mikrolimano is ideal for a long lunch. We spent something like 4 hours and enjoyed all variations of light on the sky and the sea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Taverna Strofi, Perama, Attica, Greece – Ταβέρνα Στροφή, Πέραμα, Αττική

Taverna Strofi is in Perama, a remote neighborhood of the port of Piraeus.  “Pera” in Greek means “far”. The name of the area literally means the “far away place”. I will let the photos describe the food. Service is good, and value for money above average.

Η Ταβέρνα Στροφή βρίσκεται στο Πέραμα, Αξίζει η μετάβαση, όπως θα δείτε και από τις φωτογραφίες. Καλή εξυπηρέτηση, και σχέση αξίας προς τιμή.

Taverna Strofi – Sea urchin eggs. Photo:Nikos Moropoulos

Sea Urchin Eggs – Αχινοσαλάτα

Taverna Strofi – Razor Clams. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Razor Clams – Πετροσωλήνες

Taverna Strofi – Venus clams. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Venus Clams – Κυδώνια

Taverna Strofi – Calamari. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Calamari – Καλαμαράκια

 

 

Osteria da Fiore, Venice, Italy

In my visit to Venice back in October 2011 I had the opportunity to visit Osteria da Fiore, in San Polo.

Today I publish the delayed review, because the osteria is one of the best restaurants in Venice, and continues to carry with pride one Michelin Star.

Osteria da Fiore

The amuse bouche was crispy tiny shrimp (gamberetti) on a bed of white polenta. 

Amuse Bouche, Osteria Da Fiore

The first dish I tasted was a mixed raw seafood.

Carpaccio di tonno – Osteria da fiore

Misto crudo di carpaccio di tonno e scampi.

Scampi crudi - Osteria da Fiore

The Scampi were served on top of a creamy mix of fennel (finocchio) and fresh cheese.

Baccala mantecato – Osteria da fiore

The second dish I tasted was another appetizer, one of the trademarks of Venetian gastronomy: “Baccala  mantecato” (dried Atlantic cod, soaked, poached and whipped until mousse-like), served with bruschetta spiced with garlic.

Overall a perfect light lunch in a wonderful environment.

 

Osteria da Fiore, Venice, Italy

In my visit to Venice back in October 2011 I had the opportunity to visit Osteria da Fiore, in San Polo.

Today I publish the delayed review, because the osteria is one of the best restaurants in Venice, and continues to carry with pride one Michelin Star.

Osteria da Fiore

The amuse bouche was crispy tiny shrimp (gamberetti) on a bed of white polenta. 

Amuse Bouche, Osteria Da Fiore

The first dish I tasted was a mixed raw seafood.

Carpaccio di tonno – Osteria da fiore

Misto crudo di carpaccio di tonno e scampi.

Scampi crudi - Osteria da Fiore

The Scampi were served on top of a creamy mix of fennel (finocchio) and fresh cheese.

Baccala mantecato – Osteria da fiore

The second dish I tasted was another appetizer, one of the trademarks of Venetian gastronomy: “Baccala  mantecato” (dried Atlantic cod, soaked, poached and whipped until mousse-like), served with bruschetta spiced with garlic.

Overall a perfect light lunch in a wonderful environment.

 

Ristorante Al Covo, Venice, Italy

The “Ristorante Al Covo” is in Castello, near the Hotel Gabrielli, no more than 15 minutes walk from St. Mark’s Square.

This review is long overdue, as I had it prepared and filed as a draft, only to forget it.

Now that I recovered it from the archive, I want to share it, if only for the reason that it is an excellent choice to dine in Venice.

Ristorante Al Covo

My first dish was “Scampi Crudi – Raw crayfish”.

It was served as it came out of the water, without the shell, with shredded cucumber, lemon dill, olive oil.

Scampi Crudi – Raw crayfish – Ristorante Al Covo

…and a big big leaf of basil!

Scampi crudi – Raw crayfish – Ristorante Al Covo

My second dish was Baccala Batagin, a dish made with salted cod (baccala) cooked in the oven with sliced potatoes, prunes and rosemary. After being cooked, a s plash of tomato sauce is put on top and a dash of olive oil.

Baccala “Batagin”, Ristorante Al Covo
 
In addition, I spotted pistacchio nuts sprinkled over the tomato sauce, and lemon dill.
The atmosphere of the restaurant is wonderful, because the clientele are mostly Venetians who enjoy good food.
Overall, a highly satisfactory experience, which I hope I will have sometime again!
Baccala “Batagin” detail – Ristorante Al Covo
 
 

Eledone moschata (musky octopus) in tomato sauce – Μοσχιοι κοκκινιστοι

2012-culture-news-drive-friendly-shoes-mm-1_565x225

The intensity of the previous article has exhausted my intellectual capacities and I needed nurishment to recover my strength and composure.

The answer to the question “what do I cook now?” came – as it always does – from the market.

Musky octopus
Musky octopus

Musky octopus is the poor relative of mighty octopus. And for this reason is a lot cheaper. These days in Athens octopus sells for 14 Euros per kilo, whereas musky octopus sells for 6 Euros per kilo.

Musky octopus tentacles with one row of suction cups
Musky octopus tentacles with one row of suction cups

A key visual difference between the musky octoppus and its mighty relative is that musky has only one row of suction cups in each of its 8 tentacles, whereas the big relative has two.

Βασική διαφορά μεταξύ του και εύκολα αναγνωρίσιμη είναι ότι τα πλοκάμια του Χταποδιού φέρουν δύο (2) σειρές βεντούζες ενώ του Μοσχιού μια (1) σειρά.

Octopus detail: two rows of suction cups
Octopus detail: two rows of suction cups

My cooking method is in two stages.

Stage 1 is the simmering of the musky octopi in their own juice. I just place them in a pot without anything, and let them simmer in low heat for about 45 minutes.

Result of Stage 1
Result of Stage 1

While this is happening, I saute onions and garlic in olive oil, and this is the beginning of Stage 2.

Onions, garlic, and chilli peppers
Onions, garlic, and chilli peppers

When Stage 1 is done, I bring together the octopi and the onion and garlic mix, adding tomato paste, cover the pot and let them intermix for 30 minutes in low heat.

Musky octopus in tomato sause
Musky octopus in tomato sause

Serve and eat immediately. I like ot sprinkle over the dish chopped coriander.

Musky octopus in tomato sauce - detail
Musky octopus in tomato sauce – detail

Enjoy it with a robust white, I prefer assyrtico from Santorini.

Stuffed Squid with bulgur wheat

Cloudy Morning by the Sea
Cloudy Morning by the Sea

Today’s dish is one of my absolute favorites: stuffed squid.

Squid
Squid

My fishmonger gave me a 25 cm super fresh squid and there was no question in my mind about its fate.

Bulgur wheat filling
Bulgur wheat filling

I prepared a mix of bulgur wheat, water, sheep milk’s yogurt, parseley, coriander, salt and pepper, and let it rest for 30 minutes.

Stuffed squid with bulgur wheat
Stuffed squid with bulgur wheat

I stuffed the squid and put it in a 220 degrees Celcius oven for 45 minutes.

Stuffed squid with bulgur wheat
Stuffed squid with bulgur wheat

I served piping hot with a fresh green salad.

baked_detail

It cannot get any better!

served_detail1

Buon appetito!

Late afternoon by the sea
Late afternoon by the sea

By the breaking wave: Tavern “Ta Kymata” in New Epidavros, Greece (Παρα θιν’ αλος: Ταβερνα “Τα Κυματα” Νεα Επιδαυρος, Ελλας)

I continue to be in the “breaking wave” mood, in spite of the fact that the first autumn rain drops pelted the dry soil since yesterday.

Three and a alf years ago I wrote about Nikos Varverakis’ tavern in New Epidavros.

Today I return to find the same values and, fresh seafood, fresh as ever, and cooked with respect to Nature.

Epidavros, Asclepeion

It is only natural to visit Nea Epidavros (a small village 20 km northeast of Palea Epidavros) and Nikos Varverakis’ tavern after a visit to the Theater and the Asclepeion in Palea Epidavros.

The first thing I asked for was the octopus. I remembered that last time I had tasted it simmered in wine and it was delicious.

Octopus cooked in wine

I was not disappointed. First of all, the octopus was small, which means fished locally. Second, the head was “dirty”, which means untouched, with all the delights of the sea left intact.

This is the reason why seafood is better consumed fresh. Can you imagine eating a frozen octopus with a “dirty” head? I cannot.

Octopus – detail

However, it is not enough to have a really fresh small octopus. Cooking it is a real challenge, as it can be so easily destroyed.

Nikos is a master in simmering the octopus in wine until it reaches perfection. The sauce was so good, that whatever was left I ate with the fish!

Vlita

The greens that accompanied the fish were vlita, boiled to perfection, served with real olive oil.

One of the most abused greens, vlita, when fresh and young is so tender that it is usually overboiled and destroyed, losing its colour to a murky muddy green-grey.

Not in Nikos’ tavern. Silky leafs, melting in your mouth, with tasty olive oil that dressed them adequately to the extent that no lemon was needed.

Fried cod

Now to the fish. Nikos recommended – and of course I accepted – fried cod.

Cod fished in the local waters is a small fish, nothing compared to the 5-10 kg fish of the Atlantic.

It is tasty, has very few bones, but it has to be super fresh, otherwise it is no good.

Not to mention the frying. The oil has to be “fresh” because the flavor of the flesh is very subtle. A reused oil can spoil a perfectly good fish.

Not in Nikos’ tavern.

The cod was fried to perfection, and it was so fresh that I could literally see the gelatin flowing out of the fish.

Needless to say, I will – one day – return.

“Except for the times of suffering, as of fear, I would think that the worst moments are those of pleasure because the hope for them and the memory of them, which occupy the rest of our lives, are better and much more pleasant than the pleasures themselves.”

Memorable sayings of Filippo Ottonieri, Giacomo Leopardi

Seafood!!! Images for the body and the soul (from Venice's Rialto fishmarket)

Today’s post is food for the body and soul, images from Venice’s seafood market in Rialto.

Rialto Fishmarket in Venice

I love fishmarkets!!! As you can tell from a sequence of posts already dedicated to them!!!!

No words or explanations or arguments are necessary.

Red Mullets - Barboni - Μπαρμπουνια

Alici - Γαυρος

Sardines - Sarde - Σαρδελλες

Sardines - Sarde - Σαρδελλα φιλετο

Molli

Orate

Papaline

Monkfish - Rana peskantrice - Πεσκανδριτσα

Palombo

Eel - Anguila

Swordfish - Pesce Spada - Ξιφιας

Skate - Razza - Σαλαχι

Skate - Razza - Σαλαχι

Sole - Sogliola - Γλωσσα

San Pietro

Scorpion Fish - Scorfano - Σκορπινα

Tuna

Scallops - Canestrelli - Χτενια

Scallops - Capesante - Κοχυλια του Αγιου Ιακωβου

Cuttlefish eggs - Latti di seppia - Αυγα σουπιας

Small cuttlefish - Seppioline - Σουπιτσες

Cuttlefish - Seppie Grosse - Σουπιες

Small Octopi - Folpi - Χταποδακια

Octopi - Piovra - Οκταποδες

Calamaretti

Calamari

Mazzancolle

Scampi

Soft Venetian Crab

Canocce

Squilla - Canocce