Top Gastronomic Destination in Greece: Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant in Mikrolimano, Piraeus

I visited Papaioannou’s Fish and Seafood Restaurant in Mikrolimano, Piraeus, on a busy Sunday lunch time. The maitre D informed us that due to the holidays the variety of dishes is not as wide as it usually is. This was a most welcome first sign of the attention the restaurant pays to the quality of its ingredients. What followed confirmed this in the most positive way. Papaioannou Restaurant is a top gastronomic destination in Greece.

Sea Urchin Eggs – Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Sea urchin eggs.We started with the eggs in their own natural juices and nothing else. No salt, no lemon, no olive oil. As it should be. As mother nature gave it to us.

The accompanying drink was ouzo. If you do not like ouzo, you may try tsipouro, or a dry white wine with high acidity, like asyrtico.

Red mullet sashimi. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Red mullet sashimi followed. It needed no dressing whatsoever. But eating an olive and a leaf of rocket after tasting the fish was sensational.

Cray fish tartare. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Crayfish tartare.This is by far the best crayfish dish I have ever tasted. You cannot imagine the sweetness, the kindnes of the flesh as it unleashes its flavours in the unuspecting and unprepared oral cavity. It is so captivating that it continues to unravel its magic until it has reached the lower depths of the oropharynx.

Fried baby cuttlefish. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Fried baby cuttlefish. The flesh melts in your mouth, while the crispy ink explodes in in millions of parcels of pleasure. Infinity as a sensation must be this bombardment of the taste buds by these agents of hedonism.

Grilled squid. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled squid sweet as sin cand tender as desire ame next. The chef had given it just a touch of olive oil for the grill, and a light sprinkle of salt. It needed nothing else. No lemon, no extra salt.

Grilled grouper. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled grouper.The flesh is moist, gelatinous, full of the aromas of the sea, soft yet firm. Eating in Papaioannou is not just an experience, it is an adventure. Dear reader, plase take a second to note that there is no dressing whatsoever on the fish, just the salt the chef put on it while on the grill. This is not an ommission, it is a deliberate act. No dresing is nedded! Because it will distort the gastronomi message, muffle the sounds of hedone emanating from the body and mind of the patron.

Grilled red mullet filet. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled red mullet filet.It must be very few people on this planet who can perfect the grilling of red mullet’s skin to a degree that it complements the juicy succulent flesh in a way that makes one believe in miracles. At the end of the day, metaphysics must have a physical grounding, and it might very well be this dish.

Fried red mullet filets. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Fried red mullet filet. The chef, George Papaioannou has a reputation for frying fish to perfection. He lived up to it. The filet of flesh was melting in the mouth, releasing all the flavours of the red mullet’s skin. And as always with fresh fish, a sweetness enveloped every sensation in the silky delusion of never ending pleasure.

Grilled sea bream. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled sea bream. It was time to return to reality and the grilled sea bream pulled it through.

Grilled Mediterranean Slipper Lobster (Kolochtypa). Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

The grilled mediterraneam slipper lobster (kolochtypa) ended the feast. This was an ode to the endless adventure of texture interweaved with flavour.

As I now recover from the flood of sensory stimuli that was mercilely unleashed against my cells I can say without any hesitation that Papaioannou is quite possibly the best fish and seafood restaurant in Greece today.

In addition to the food, service is top class. The team is professional, friendly and efficient.

The location in Mikrolimano is ideal for a long lunch. We spent something like 4 hours and enjoyed all variations of light on the sky and the sea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bacalao the Magnificent

 

 

 

cod

 

A selection of some of the best bacalao dishes I have tasted, published as a photo story in storehouse.

Skate the Magnificent – Σαλαχι το Μεγαλοπρεπες

Today I pay tribute to Skate the Magnificent! And enjoy it cooked in two ways.

Poached and served as a salad, and fried accompanied by aioli.

61238
Σαλαχι – Skate

 

Σημερα εχομε Σαλαχι το Μεγαλοπρεπες! Και το απολαμβανομεν μαγειρευμενον εις δυο διαφορετικους τροπους.

Αχνιστο σε σαλατα, και τηγανητο με σκορδαλεα.

Poached skate salad - σαλατα με αχνιστο σαλαχι
Poached skate salad – σαλατα με αχνιστο σαλαχι

It is not often that I find skate in my fishmonger. But when I do, I always enjoy it.

It is a very delicate fish, its flesh tender and juicy, and the bones are soft and tasty.

After poaching the fish, I use a fork to gently pull the flesh out of the bone complex, and let it rest. After that I mix it with chopped dill, green onions, pickled hot peppers, lemon, olive oil, salt and pepper.

I serve over a bed of crispy lettuce.

skate4
Poached skate salad detail – σαλατα με αχνιστο σαλαχι λεπτομερεια

 

Δεν βρισκω συχνα σαλαχι στον ψαρα μου, αλλα οταν αυτο συμβαινει, το απολαμβανω.

Ειναι ενα ψαρι με απαλη και ζουμερη σαρκα, ενω τα κοκκαλα του ειναι σαν μαλακοι χονδροι, και μαλιστα ευγευστοι.

Αφου αχνισω το ψαρι, το ξεψαχνιζω και το αφηνω να χαλαρωσει. Μετα το αναμειγνυω με ψιλοκομμενο ανιθο, καυτερη πιπερια τουρσι, φρεσκο κρεμμυδι, λεμονι και ελαιολαδο. Ολιγον αλατι, ολιγον πιπερι.

Σερβιρω πανω σε φρεσκοκομμενο μαρουλι.

Fried skate - Τηγανητο σαλαχι
Fried skate – Τηγανητο σαλαχι

The fried skate is a matter of knowing how to fry. The fish must be juicy inside and crispy outside.

I fry it in very hot corn oil for 2 minutes and serve it with aioli. And try to chew and enjoy the bones!

skate2
Fried skate detail – Τηγανητο σαλαχι λεπτομερεια

 

Το τηγανισμα ειναι ολη η ουσια στο τηγανητο πιατο. Πρεπει να ειναι το ψαρι τραγανο απεξω και ζουμερο απο μεσα.

Το τηγανιζω σε καυτο καλαμποκελαιο για δυο λεπτα και μετα σερβιρω με σκοδαλεα μαγιονεζα.

Και απολαμβανω και τα μαλακα κοκκαλακια!

Giant lima beans
Giant lima beans

In order to have some variety on the table, I also prepared two dishes with giant lima beans, boiled as a salad and cooked in a spicy tomato juice.

Bon appetit!

Giant lima beans
Giant lima beans

Και για να μην παει το ψαρακι κατω ξεροσφυρι, ετοιμασα και δυο πιατα με γιγαντες φασολια, βραστα σε σαλατα και κοκκινιστα.

Καλην ορεξη!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Osteria da Fiore, Venice, Italy

In my visit to Venice back in October 2011 I had the opportunity to visit Osteria da Fiore, in San Polo.

Today I publish the delayed review, because the osteria is one of the best restaurants in Venice, and continues to carry with pride one Michelin Star.

Osteria da Fiore

The amuse bouche was crispy tiny shrimp (gamberetti) on a bed of white polenta. 

Amuse Bouche, Osteria Da Fiore

The first dish I tasted was a mixed raw seafood.

Carpaccio di tonno – Osteria da fiore

Misto crudo di carpaccio di tonno e scampi.

Scampi crudi - Osteria da Fiore

The Scampi were served on top of a creamy mix of fennel (finocchio) and fresh cheese.

Baccala mantecato – Osteria da fiore

The second dish I tasted was another appetizer, one of the trademarks of Venetian gastronomy: “Baccala  mantecato” (dried Atlantic cod, soaked, poached and whipped until mousse-like), served with bruschetta spiced with garlic.

Overall a perfect light lunch in a wonderful environment.

 

Osteria da Fiore, Venice, Italy

In my visit to Venice back in October 2011 I had the opportunity to visit Osteria da Fiore, in San Polo.

Today I publish the delayed review, because the osteria is one of the best restaurants in Venice, and continues to carry with pride one Michelin Star.

Osteria da Fiore

The amuse bouche was crispy tiny shrimp (gamberetti) on a bed of white polenta. 

Amuse Bouche, Osteria Da Fiore

The first dish I tasted was a mixed raw seafood.

Carpaccio di tonno – Osteria da fiore

Misto crudo di carpaccio di tonno e scampi.

Scampi crudi - Osteria da Fiore

The Scampi were served on top of a creamy mix of fennel (finocchio) and fresh cheese.

Baccala mantecato – Osteria da fiore

The second dish I tasted was another appetizer, one of the trademarks of Venetian gastronomy: “Baccala  mantecato” (dried Atlantic cod, soaked, poached and whipped until mousse-like), served with bruschetta spiced with garlic.

Overall a perfect light lunch in a wonderful environment.

 

Ristorante Al Covo, Venice, Italy

The “Ristorante Al Covo” is in Castello, near the Hotel Gabrielli, no more than 15 minutes walk from St. Mark’s Square.

This review is long overdue, as I had it prepared and filed as a draft, only to forget it.

Now that I recovered it from the archive, I want to share it, if only for the reason that it is an excellent choice to dine in Venice.

Ristorante Al Covo

My first dish was “Scampi Crudi – Raw crayfish”.

It was served as it came out of the water, without the shell, with shredded cucumber, lemon dill, olive oil.

Scampi Crudi – Raw crayfish – Ristorante Al Covo

…and a big big leaf of basil!

Scampi crudi – Raw crayfish – Ristorante Al Covo

My second dish was Baccala Batagin, a dish made with salted cod (baccala) cooked in the oven with sliced potatoes, prunes and rosemary. After being cooked, a s plash of tomato sauce is put on top and a dash of olive oil.

Baccala “Batagin”, Ristorante Al Covo
 
In addition, I spotted pistacchio nuts sprinkled over the tomato sauce, and lemon dill.
The atmosphere of the restaurant is wonderful, because the clientele are mostly Venetians who enjoy good food.
Overall, a highly satisfactory experience, which I hope I will have sometime again!
Baccala “Batagin” detail – Ristorante Al Covo
 
 

Bacalao confit with zucchini sticks and garlic – Μπακαλιαρος κονφι με τηγανητα κολοκυθια και σκορδο

Today’s dish is a combination of some of my most favourite ingredients.

Bacalao fillets
Bacalao fillets

First of all, bacalao.

In spite of the fact that in Greece we do not have the top quality bacalao of Spain, I cannot resist the urge to cook bacalao as often as I can.

Garlic cloves
Garlic cloves

Second, garlic.

I loooove garlic.

Zucchini
Zucchini

Last, but not least, the freshest zucchini from farms a few kilometers away from my home.

Respect for the ingredients should be reflected in the way they are prepared and cooked.

One of the best ways to express this respect with the specific ingredients is to “confit” the garlic and the bacalao.

I start by placing the garlic cloves in a frying pan with olive oil that covers half of the clove’s height.

Garlic cloves
Garlic cloves

The temperature should be low enough so that the garlic is not fried, but “boiled” in the olive oil

Once the garlic has started assuming a “brownish” color, I place the bacalao fillets in the pan without adding more oil.

Bacalao fillets with garlic cloves in olive oil - confit
Bacalao fillets with garlic cloves in olive oil – confit

The garlic has infused the oil with its aroma and fragrance, and makes the slow cooking process a very fragrant one.

I keep the heat low, so that the bacalao and garlic mix “boils” and not fries.

Bacalao and garlic confit - detail
Bacalao and garlic confit – detail

After 40 minutes or so, depending always on the thickness of the fillets, the fish is cooked.

While the fish was cooking slowly, I cut and floured the zucchini sticks and flowers, and then fried in corn oil.

Bacalao confit with zucchini sticks and garlic cloves
Bacalao confit with zucchini sticks and garlic cloves

I serve the fillets on top of the garlic cloves, sprinkled with chopped parsley, with the sticks and flower on the side.

bacalao_garlic_detail
Bacalao confit with zucchini sticks and garlic cloves – detail

The fish is soft, juicy and tasty from the garlic infused oil, while the garlic cloves melt in your mouth and are just divine. 

Bacalao confit with zucchini sticks and garlic cloves - detail
Bacalao confit with zucchini sticks and garlic cloves – detail

The crunchy zucchini flower is fragrant and provides the necessary textural contrast to the fish and garlic.

Bacalao confit with zucchini sticks and garlic cloves - detail
Bacalao confit with zucchini sticks and garlic cloves – detail

Finally, the zucchini sticks are somewhere in the middle in terms of texture, while their almost sweet taste brings a nice complement to the savoury fish.

I enjoyed the dish with a glass of Avantis Estate Syrah.

 

 

By the breaking wave: Tavern “Ta Kymata” in New Epidavros, Greece (Παρα θιν’ αλος: Ταβερνα “Τα Κυματα” Νεα Επιδαυρος, Ελλας)

I continue to be in the “breaking wave” mood, in spite of the fact that the first autumn rain drops pelted the dry soil since yesterday.

Three and a alf years ago I wrote about Nikos Varverakis’ tavern in New Epidavros.

Today I return to find the same values and, fresh seafood, fresh as ever, and cooked with respect to Nature.

Epidavros, Asclepeion

It is only natural to visit Nea Epidavros (a small village 20 km northeast of Palea Epidavros) and Nikos Varverakis’ tavern after a visit to the Theater and the Asclepeion in Palea Epidavros.

The first thing I asked for was the octopus. I remembered that last time I had tasted it simmered in wine and it was delicious.

Octopus cooked in wine

I was not disappointed. First of all, the octopus was small, which means fished locally. Second, the head was “dirty”, which means untouched, with all the delights of the sea left intact.

This is the reason why seafood is better consumed fresh. Can you imagine eating a frozen octopus with a “dirty” head? I cannot.

Octopus – detail

However, it is not enough to have a really fresh small octopus. Cooking it is a real challenge, as it can be so easily destroyed.

Nikos is a master in simmering the octopus in wine until it reaches perfection. The sauce was so good, that whatever was left I ate with the fish!

Vlita

The greens that accompanied the fish were vlita, boiled to perfection, served with real olive oil.

One of the most abused greens, vlita, when fresh and young is so tender that it is usually overboiled and destroyed, losing its colour to a murky muddy green-grey.

Not in Nikos’ tavern. Silky leafs, melting in your mouth, with tasty olive oil that dressed them adequately to the extent that no lemon was needed.

Fried cod

Now to the fish. Nikos recommended – and of course I accepted – fried cod.

Cod fished in the local waters is a small fish, nothing compared to the 5-10 kg fish of the Atlantic.

It is tasty, has very few bones, but it has to be super fresh, otherwise it is no good.

Not to mention the frying. The oil has to be “fresh” because the flavor of the flesh is very subtle. A reused oil can spoil a perfectly good fish.

Not in Nikos’ tavern.

The cod was fried to perfection, and it was so fresh that I could literally see the gelatin flowing out of the fish.

Needless to say, I will – one day – return.

“Except for the times of suffering, as of fear, I would think that the worst moments are those of pleasure because the hope for them and the memory of them, which occupy the rest of our lives, are better and much more pleasant than the pleasures themselves.”

Memorable sayings of Filippo Ottonieri, Giacomo Leopardi

Fishtavern “Cavouri”, Marathon Beach: By the (breaking) sea wave

I continue to be in a “breaking sea wave” mood, and there is no better place to have lunch when you are in this mood than the beach itself, especially when the tables are less than one meter away from the breaking wave!

There was a nothern wind of medium strength, and the wave was breaking indeed!

The fresh wind comes from the Aegean, passing from the Southern tip of Evoia.

This wind has a cleansing effect on me.

It strips away all the mumbo-jumbo that clutters my Being and helps me see into my true (authentic) nature.

The breaking sea wave is my satori catalyst.

Unfortunately this glimpse into the true me does not last for very long.

However, I consider myself fortunate that it lasts even for a few seconds.

In any case, having achieved the “satori” state, I had to go for the unadulterated, pure taste of the fish.

The colorful salad that came as a prelude, acted as an evangelist for the main course.

A fresh sea bass, grilled to perfection.

Words fail me.

In addition to the subtle aroma of the sea, I was deeply absorbed by the gelatinous texture of the moist flesh.

The more fresh the flesh, the higher the gelatine effect.

Absolutely delicious!

But I must confess that a thought crossed my mind.

Given the quality of the fish, how would it be to have half of it served raw by Mizutani, and the other half grilled?

For the time being I will stay with the thought stuck in my mind. It may be a while before Mizutani visits Marathon.

Fresh grapes, cut a minute ago from the vines providing the very welcome shade, took away the aromas of the sea and brought Dionyssus to the table.

Ora sono ubriaco

d’ universo

I am now drunk

from the universe

(Giuseppe Ungaretti)

Seafood!!! Images for the body and the soul (from Venice's Rialto fishmarket)

Today’s post is food for the body and soul, images from Venice’s seafood market in Rialto.

Rialto Fishmarket in Venice

I love fishmarkets!!! As you can tell from a sequence of posts already dedicated to them!!!!

No words or explanations or arguments are necessary.

Red Mullets - Barboni - Μπαρμπουνια
Alici - Γαυρος
Sardines - Sarde - Σαρδελλες
Sardines - Sarde - Σαρδελλα φιλετο
Molli
Orate
Papaline
Monkfish - Rana peskantrice - Πεσκανδριτσα
Palombo
Eel - Anguila
Swordfish - Pesce Spada - Ξιφιας
Skate - Razza - Σαλαχι
Skate - Razza - Σαλαχι
Sole - Sogliola - Γλωσσα
San Pietro
Scorpion Fish - Scorfano - Σκορπινα
Tuna
Scallops - Canestrelli - Χτενια
Scallops - Capesante - Κοχυλια του Αγιου Ιακωβου
Cuttlefish eggs - Latti di seppia - Αυγα σουπιας
Small cuttlefish - Seppioline - Σουπιτσες
Cuttlefish - Seppie Grosse - Σουπιες
Small Octopi - Folpi - Χταποδακια
Octopi - Piovra - Οκταποδες
Calamaretti
Calamari
Mazzancolle
Scampi
Soft Venetian Crab
Canocce
Squilla - Canocce