Bacalao the Magnificent

 

 

 

cod

 

A selection of some of the best bacalao dishes I have tasted, published as a photo story in storehouse.

Osteria da Fiore, Venice, Italy

In my visit to Venice back in October 2011 I had the opportunity to visit Osteria da Fiore, in San Polo.

Today I publish the delayed review, because the osteria is one of the best restaurants in Venice, and continues to carry with pride one Michelin Star.

Osteria da Fiore

The amuse bouche was crispy tiny shrimp (gamberetti) on a bed of white polenta. 

Amuse Bouche, Osteria Da Fiore

The first dish I tasted was a mixed raw seafood.

Carpaccio di tonno – Osteria da fiore

Misto crudo di carpaccio di tonno e scampi.

Scampi crudi - Osteria da Fiore

The Scampi were served on top of a creamy mix of fennel (finocchio) and fresh cheese.

Baccala mantecato – Osteria da fiore

The second dish I tasted was another appetizer, one of the trademarks of Venetian gastronomy: “Baccala  mantecato” (dried Atlantic cod, soaked, poached and whipped until mousse-like), served with bruschetta spiced with garlic.

Overall a perfect light lunch in a wonderful environment.

 

Osteria da Fiore, Venice, Italy

In my visit to Venice back in October 2011 I had the opportunity to visit Osteria da Fiore, in San Polo.

Today I publish the delayed review, because the osteria is one of the best restaurants in Venice, and continues to carry with pride one Michelin Star.

Osteria da Fiore

The amuse bouche was crispy tiny shrimp (gamberetti) on a bed of white polenta. 

Amuse Bouche, Osteria Da Fiore

The first dish I tasted was a mixed raw seafood.

Carpaccio di tonno – Osteria da fiore

Misto crudo di carpaccio di tonno e scampi.

Scampi crudi - Osteria da Fiore

The Scampi were served on top of a creamy mix of fennel (finocchio) and fresh cheese.

Baccala mantecato – Osteria da fiore

The second dish I tasted was another appetizer, one of the trademarks of Venetian gastronomy: “Baccala  mantecato” (dried Atlantic cod, soaked, poached and whipped until mousse-like), served with bruschetta spiced with garlic.

Overall a perfect light lunch in a wonderful environment.

 

Ristorante Al Covo, Venice, Italy

The “Ristorante Al Covo” is in Castello, near the Hotel Gabrielli, no more than 15 minutes walk from St. Mark’s Square.

This review is long overdue, as I had it prepared and filed as a draft, only to forget it.

Now that I recovered it from the archive, I want to share it, if only for the reason that it is an excellent choice to dine in Venice.

Ristorante Al Covo

My first dish was “Scampi Crudi – Raw crayfish”.

It was served as it came out of the water, without the shell, with shredded cucumber, lemon dill, olive oil.

Scampi Crudi – Raw crayfish – Ristorante Al Covo

…and a big big leaf of basil!

Scampi crudi – Raw crayfish – Ristorante Al Covo

My second dish was Baccala Batagin, a dish made with salted cod (baccala) cooked in the oven with sliced potatoes, prunes and rosemary. After being cooked, a s plash of tomato sauce is put on top and a dash of olive oil.

Baccala “Batagin”, Ristorante Al Covo
 
In addition, I spotted pistacchio nuts sprinkled over the tomato sauce, and lemon dill.
The atmosphere of the restaurant is wonderful, because the clientele are mostly Venetians who enjoy good food.
Overall, a highly satisfactory experience, which I hope I will have sometime again!
Baccala “Batagin” detail – Ristorante Al Covo
 
 

Eledone moschata (musky octopus) in tomato sauce – Μοσχιοι κοκκινιστοι

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The intensity of the previous article has exhausted my intellectual capacities and I needed nurishment to recover my strength and composure.

The answer to the question “what do I cook now?” came – as it always does – from the market.

Musky octopus
Musky octopus

Musky octopus is the poor relative of mighty octopus. And for this reason is a lot cheaper. These days in Athens octopus sells for 14 Euros per kilo, whereas musky octopus sells for 6 Euros per kilo.

Musky octopus tentacles with one row of suction cups
Musky octopus tentacles with one row of suction cups

A key visual difference between the musky octoppus and its mighty relative is that musky has only one row of suction cups in each of its 8 tentacles, whereas the big relative has two.

Βασική διαφορά μεταξύ του και εύκολα αναγνωρίσιμη είναι ότι τα πλοκάμια του Χταποδιού φέρουν δύο (2) σειρές βεντούζες ενώ του Μοσχιού μια (1) σειρά.

Octopus detail: two rows of suction cups
Octopus detail: two rows of suction cups

My cooking method is in two stages.

Stage 1 is the simmering of the musky octopi in their own juice. I just place them in a pot without anything, and let them simmer in low heat for about 45 minutes.

Result of Stage 1
Result of Stage 1

While this is happening, I saute onions and garlic in olive oil, and this is the beginning of Stage 2.

Onions, garlic, and chilli peppers
Onions, garlic, and chilli peppers

When Stage 1 is done, I bring together the octopi and the onion and garlic mix, adding tomato paste, cover the pot and let them intermix for 30 minutes in low heat.

Musky octopus in tomato sause
Musky octopus in tomato sause

Serve and eat immediately. I like ot sprinkle over the dish chopped coriander.

Musky octopus in tomato sauce - detail
Musky octopus in tomato sauce – detail

Enjoy it with a robust white, I prefer assyrtico from Santorini.

Stuffed Squid with bulgur wheat

Cloudy Morning by the Sea
Cloudy Morning by the Sea

Today’s dish is one of my absolute favorites: stuffed squid.

Squid
Squid

My fishmonger gave me a 25 cm super fresh squid and there was no question in my mind about its fate.

Bulgur wheat filling
Bulgur wheat filling

I prepared a mix of bulgur wheat, water, sheep milk’s yogurt, parseley, coriander, salt and pepper, and let it rest for 30 minutes.

Stuffed squid with bulgur wheat
Stuffed squid with bulgur wheat

I stuffed the squid and put it in a 220 degrees Celcius oven for 45 minutes.

Stuffed squid with bulgur wheat
Stuffed squid with bulgur wheat

I served piping hot with a fresh green salad.

baked_detail

It cannot get any better!

served_detail1

Buon appetito!

Late afternoon by the sea
Late afternoon by the sea

The Restaurant of St John Hotel Chinatown, 1 Leicester Street, London

During my recent visit to London (October 2012) I had the opportunity to visit the restaurant in the St John Hotel in London’s Chinatown in two consecutive days.

The Hotel (and restaurant) is located a few meters away from Leicester Square and is easily accessible by all means of transportation.

The reason I went there has a name: Fergus Henderson.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London

Fergus Henderson is the “Nose to Tail” man. The simple principle that he pushed forward with his cooking is that when we slaughter an animal, it is a matter of respect but also of practicality, to eat all the bits. From nose to tail.

The Hotel in central London’s Leicester Square was opened in the Spring of 2011.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London: Johann Strauss Plaque

And it’s already a part of London history, housed in Manzi’s, the fish restaurant on the fringes of Chinatown that had been there forever, until suddenly it wasn’t.

Mr. Manzi one day sold everything, and headed off to Mone Carlo, giving to Fergus Henderson and his business partner Trevor Gulliver the opportunity to try out their hotel and restaurant concept in Central London.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London

The restaurant’s layout is simple with an open kitchen.

The staff is exceptional indeed. You feel right at home.

And what is most important for the weary traveller, is that the kitchen is open continuously from 12 noon to 12 midnight. So no matter when you can, you drop by and eat. This is exactly what I did on both days.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Devilled Pig’s Skin & Smoked Cod’s Roe

The two-day feast began with “Devilled Pig’s Skin & Smoked Cod’s Roe”.

When I saw it arriving to the table, I thought that this is not a dish, this is a sculpture. Nevertheless, I went ahead and enjoyed it.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Devilled Pig’s Skin & Smoked Cod’s Roe – detail

This is a dish that epitomizes the concept of the appetizer. Crunchy texture, accompanied by the creamy and flavorfull roe.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London: Black pudding and eggs

I absolutely loooooove black pudding, or boudin noir as it is known in France.

It is one of the humblest but terribly delicious dishes, a real tribute to blood and guts.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London: Black pudding and eggs – detail

It is only on the breakfast menu, but when I asked for it, at around 1730 hrs on a Friday afternoon, for what was a lunch and dinner meal after an exhaustive business meeting, it appeared miraculously in front of me. The restaurant’s maitr d’ hotel, a delightful lady, presented it with a glorious smile. The guys in the open kitchen were watching knowingly. I was in heaven! Needless to say, the divine pudding was “house” made.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Cuttlefish, Fennel & Green Sauce

Although Henderson is known as the “offal” man, St John Hotel have a menu with seafood items in addition to the “regular” meat and offal items. One of them was the cuttlefish with fennel and green sauce.

I was very curious to taste it, as cuttlefish is extremely light in flavour, and difficult in texture.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Cuttlefish, Fennel & Green Sauce – Detail

I was really lucky to taste this dish. Perfectly tender, full of flavor, and I had to ask for a spoon for the sauce.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Snail,s Duck Hearts & Lovage

The “Snails, Duck Hearts & Lovage”, sounded like a strange mix of diverse ingredients, but this was one more reason to taste it. And it worked!

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Snail,s Duck Hearts & Lovage – detail

I enjoyed the subtlety of the snails, and the robustness of the heart’s texture. The rather big chunks of fried bread were absolutely delicious.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Ox Heart, Beetroot & Red Cabbage

The “Ox Heart, Beetroot & Red Cabbage” is a tribute to texture.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Ox Heart, Beetroot & Red Cabbage – detail

Firm, robust muscle, perfectly accompanied by the crunchy red cabbage and the beetroot.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Bacon & Beans

And now the ultimate classic: “Bacon & Beans”. I do not recall bacon ever tasting so good.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Bacon & Beans – detail

After the black pudding, this is the second dish that made me feel that I was in my mother’s kitchen.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Bacon & Beans

The bacon was juicy and full of flavors, the beans tender and tasty, and the sauce absolutely divine, and thick.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli

I was very curious to taste a fish dish. Especially after having tasted the meat heavy weights. I chose “Brill, Leeks & Aioli”.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli – detail

The fish was perfectly cooked. As you can see.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli – detail

I ate the skin and it was crispy and delicious!!!

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli – detail

I wish I could eat more leeks and aioli. But I couldn’t.

A good meal (or two meals for that matter) always ends with a new one.

So here is my list of what I wish to taste during my next visit: Mussels, Razor Clams, Lamb Sweetbreads, Pork Chops…

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London

Thank you Mssrs. Henderson and Gulliver, thank you to all staff of the restaurant, You all gave me an unforgetable culinary experience.

Fishtavern “Cavouri”, Marathon Beach: By the (breaking) sea wave

I continue to be in a “breaking sea wave” mood, and there is no better place to have lunch when you are in this mood than the beach itself, especially when the tables are less than one meter away from the breaking wave!

There was a nothern wind of medium strength, and the wave was breaking indeed!

The fresh wind comes from the Aegean, passing from the Southern tip of Evoia.

This wind has a cleansing effect on me.

It strips away all the mumbo-jumbo that clutters my Being and helps me see into my true (authentic) nature.

The breaking sea wave is my satori catalyst.

Unfortunately this glimpse into the true me does not last for very long.

However, I consider myself fortunate that it lasts even for a few seconds.

In any case, having achieved the “satori” state, I had to go for the unadulterated, pure taste of the fish.

The colorful salad that came as a prelude, acted as an evangelist for the main course.

A fresh sea bass, grilled to perfection.

Words fail me.

In addition to the subtle aroma of the sea, I was deeply absorbed by the gelatinous texture of the moist flesh.

The more fresh the flesh, the higher the gelatine effect.

Absolutely delicious!

But I must confess that a thought crossed my mind.

Given the quality of the fish, how would it be to have half of it served raw by Mizutani, and the other half grilled?

For the time being I will stay with the thought stuck in my mind. It may be a while before Mizutani visits Marathon.

Fresh grapes, cut a minute ago from the vines providing the very welcome shade, took away the aromas of the sea and brought Dionyssus to the table.

Ora sono ubriaco

d’ universo

I am now drunk

from the universe

(Giuseppe Ungaretti)

Seafood!!! Images for the body and the soul (from Venice's Rialto fishmarket)

Today’s post is food for the body and soul, images from Venice’s seafood market in Rialto.

Rialto Fishmarket in Venice

I love fishmarkets!!! As you can tell from a sequence of posts already dedicated to them!!!!

No words or explanations or arguments are necessary.

Red Mullets - Barboni - Μπαρμπουνια
Alici - Γαυρος
Sardines - Sarde - Σαρδελλες
Sardines - Sarde - Σαρδελλα φιλετο
Molli
Orate
Papaline
Monkfish - Rana peskantrice - Πεσκανδριτσα
Palombo
Eel - Anguila
Swordfish - Pesce Spada - Ξιφιας
Skate - Razza - Σαλαχι
Skate - Razza - Σαλαχι
Sole - Sogliola - Γλωσσα
San Pietro
Scorpion Fish - Scorfano - Σκορπινα
Tuna
Scallops - Canestrelli - Χτενια
Scallops - Capesante - Κοχυλια του Αγιου Ιακωβου
Cuttlefish eggs - Latti di seppia - Αυγα σουπιας
Small cuttlefish - Seppioline - Σουπιτσες
Cuttlefish - Seppie Grosse - Σουπιες
Small Octopi - Folpi - Χταποδακια
Octopi - Piovra - Οκταποδες
Calamaretti
Calamari
Mazzancolle
Scampi
Soft Venetian Crab
Canocce
Squilla - Canocce

Surf and Turf: Lunch at the Bar of Hotel Metropole, Venice, Italy

Hotel Metropole is one of the hospitality jewels in Venice. This I knew before my last visit to Venice. What I did not know was that for two years now they serve some real food dishes (not only sandwiches and salds) in the bar of the hotel every day of the week from 1230 to 1430. Taking into account that the famous gourmet restaurant of the hotel (with two Michelin stars) does not serve lunch except on Saturday and Sunday, the bar is a practical solution for a visitor who wants to have lunch.

Hotel Metropole, Venice

The Hotel commands a fantastic position on the promenade of the “Riva degli Schiavoni”, a few meters away from St. Mark’s square.

Lunch serving area of the Bar at the Hotel Metropole

The Bar is located on the ground floor, on the left side as you enter and before you reach the reception. It has beautiful wooden panels which are used as displays for the owner’s collection of objects.

Being in Venice, it is proper to start with the surf side of the menu.

Gamberi "in saor" - Hotel Metropole, The Bar

Gamberi (prawns) “in saor” (sweet and sour). A delightful appetizer. The prawns are seared for one or two seconds, literally, and then served on a bed of cabbage and pickled red onions, with raisins and raspberries (lamponi). On top the chef placed a few finocchio leaves. The flavor combinations are incredible! And if you do not have all the rest, go and get prawns and taste them with raspberries.

Prawns "al saor" detail - Hotel Metropole, The Bar

The red onions are pickled and caramelized, adding the mild sweet and sour background to the taste of the prawns.

Cod with asparagi and potatoes with mustard sauce - Hotel Metropole, the Bar

Merluzzo is “cod” of the Adriatic Sea. It was served on a bed of mashed potatoes with mustard seeds, and asparagus.

Cod - detail

The Merluzzo was seared on the side of the skin for a couple of minutes in very strong fire, that made the skin crispy and the flesh juicy, firm, and succulent. The fish was served with fresh oregano and dill. Wonderful execution!!!

We now move to the turf side of the menu: Italian Delicacies are the first chapter.

Prosciutto crudo di Sauris is the prince of this dish of mixed cured meats. Sauris is a locality near Udine, where this tender and tasty prosciutto crudo is produced. It tasted like it has more character than the prosciutto di Parma.

Soppressa di Valdobbiadene

Salsiccia del Veneto (deer and pork)

Speck di Alto Adige. Perfect balance of salty and sweet. When the pig has had the proper food, the fat is sweet and flavorful.

Salame del Piave

The silky and full of flavour “Veal Carpaccio (di Manzo)” completed the tasting experience.

After the qualitative parts of the food, it is time to come to the value for money summary. Not only is the food of top quality, not only is the service excellent, the value for money of the Bar’s Lunch Menu is unbeatable, the best not only in Venice, but in most of Italy!!! But please please please, keep this little secret to yourselves.