Restaurant “Thalassa mou”, Alyki, Paros, Greece

During a short visit to Paros, I visited a restaurant for the first time.

It is a restaurant by the breaking wave on the edge of Aiyki, in the southwestern corner of the island.

By the breaking wave
By the breaking wave

The restaurant opened last year and operates during the – unfortunately short – tourist season of Paros, from late May to late September.

It is owned and operated by a couple.

The husband is a chef trained in France, and the wife runs the front of the house.

Appetizers presented as tapas
Appetizers presented as tapas

The menu is local food, prepared and presented in a beautiful and “modern” way.

It not only tastes good, it looks good as well!

Tuna carpaccio with avocado
Tuna carpaccio with avocado

They have a seven small dishes appetizer plate that is a must. Eggplant salad, marinated anchovies, chick peas, octopus in wine, fava bean salad, taramossalata (egg roe dip) and a delicious cold tomato soup.

The highlight of the appetizers is a small tuna carpaccio with avocado and mint.

Cheese fritters
Cheese fritters

The cheese fritters are made with local fresh cheese and are delicious!

Rabbit with lardon, and mushrooms, served with tagliatelle
Rabbit with lardons, and mushrooms, served with tagliatelle

I was curious how rabbit would taste in a hot day, and was justified in taking the dish. Absolutely delicious, juicy and gamey local rabbit, in a light sauce with lardons to die for, parmesan cheese and tagliatelle al dente.

One thing is for sure. I will visit them again!

mmm

Ristorante Al Covo, Venice, Italy

The “Ristorante Al Covo” is in Castello, near the Hotel Gabrielli, no more than 15 minutes walk from St. Mark’s Square.

This review is long overdue, as I had it prepared and filed as a draft, only to forget it.

Now that I recovered it from the archive, I want to share it, if only for the reason that it is an excellent choice to dine in Venice.

Ristorante Al Covo

My first dish was “Scampi Crudi – Raw crayfish”.

It was served as it came out of the water, without the shell, with shredded cucumber, lemon dill, olive oil.

Scampi Crudi – Raw crayfish – Ristorante Al Covo

…and a big big leaf of basil!

Scampi crudi – Raw crayfish – Ristorante Al Covo

My second dish was Baccala Batagin, a dish made with salted cod (baccala) cooked in the oven with sliced potatoes, prunes and rosemary. After being cooked, a s plash of tomato sauce is put on top and a dash of olive oil.

Baccala “Batagin”, Ristorante Al Covo
 
In addition, I spotted pistacchio nuts sprinkled over the tomato sauce, and lemon dill.
The atmosphere of the restaurant is wonderful, because the clientele are mostly Venetians who enjoy good food.
Overall, a highly satisfactory experience, which I hope I will have sometime again!
Baccala “Batagin” detail – Ristorante Al Covo
 
 

Vassilenas Restaurant in Piraeus, Greece – Το εστιατοριο “Βασιλαινας” στον Πειραια

I recently visited the Vassilenas restaurant in Piraeus, Greece.

It has been one of my father’s favorites.

The restaurant began its life as a grocery store back in 1920. The owner was also serving some “meze” dishes to the grocery’s customers.

When my father started visiting, the grocery store had transformed itself into a taverna.

But not any taverna.

My father’s reminiscences were almost ecstatic.

He would recall that after entering the taverna, the owner, “Vassilenas”, would greet the customer and perform some sort of “assessment”, on the basis of which he would start serving various dishes to the table. The customer was advised to “ride the wave”. And it was a wave of gastronomic nirvana!

Today the taverna has been transformed into a restaurant, and is run by the son of the “Vassilenas” of my father’s days.

In my last visit I had the set menu.

Pumpkin soup
Pumpkin soup

It starts with a pumpkin soup, with cumin, nutmeg and curry.

I do not like soups. Especially in the Greek summer. But I tasted it. And I ate it every scoop of it. Delicious!

Anchovies
Anchovies a tomato marmalade slice of crispy bread and taramosalata (fish row dip) with Arabian bread

Next came marinated anchovies on a tomato marmalade slice of crispy bread and taramosalata (fish row dip) with Arabian bread. The anchovies were light in the salt and vinegar and tender, perfectly accompanied by the tomato marmalade. The fish roe dip creamy and light.

Sea bream
Sea bream

It was followed by sea bream on a bed of spinach and leeks, served with a cauliflower puree and a wild fennel sauce.

The fish was perfectly cooked, and the combination with the greens was delicious.

Duo of salmon
Duo of salmon

Next came a duo of salmon. Marinated in soy sauce and grilled in a crust of spices.

Duo of salmon - grilled salmon detail
Duo of salmon – grilled salmon detail

The grilled piece was cooked to perfection. You can see for yourself the photo above.

As I write this, I realize how exciting it has been to taste all these wonderful dishes, let alone relive the experience by writing about them!

This is a very good reason to write indeed!

Grilled calamari and fried cod
Grilled calamari and fried cod

In any case, grilled calamari and fried cod fillet came next.

The calamari was served on a bed of smoked eggplant.

I was overwhelmed by the cod, as it was perfectly fried, not oily at all, accompanied by heavenly aioli.

"Rice-shaped" pasta with mushrooms
“Rice-shaped” pasta with mushrooms

A “rice-shaped” pasta dish with mushrooms came next, It was cooked as a risotto, and wwas delicious, but I must confess I felt it was rather late in the menu for this type of dish. I am used to have pasta as a first dish, and could not really come around to tasting it as the penultimate dish.

Braised pig's cheeks
Slow cooked pig’s neck

The slow cooked pig’s neck concluded the savoury part of the menu. I loved it. It was served with quince marmalade, sweet potato puree, confit of onions and angel hair fried potatos.

Lemon tart
Lemon tart

All the dishes were exceptional, including the desert, a lemon tart I could kill for.

But I did not, thankfuly.

Instead I paid the bill and went home a happy man.

Botrini’s Restaurant, Athens, Greece

I recently visited Botrini’s Restaurant in a suburb of Athens, Greece.

Hector Botrini is one of the best chefs in Greece today. One might call him controversial, as he has followed the “Kitchen Nightmares” trail of Chef Ramsey’s TV show, hosting the Greek version of the show.

But cooking is cooking, regardless of how much you like the personality of the chef. So lets get to the real thing.

Botrini’s Athens restaurant opened in the summer of 2011.

As expected, the menu is short, and is divided in two parts. The “a la carte” and the “set menu” part.

My companion and I both had the set BOE menu.

Amuse Bouche

It all started with a Mediterranean “map on a tray” with the amuse buche. Nice presentation and a fun way to start the meal.

Anchovy and Red Pepper Terrine

The star of the tray was the anchovy and (sweet) red pepper terrine. This was an exercise in balance. The sweet pepper, balancing the sour anchovy. In my view the result was perfect. I would love to see this terrine as a first course.

Olive

Close second the “olive”, accompanied by cheese and pastry concoctions.

Copa with melon and shrimp a la planca

First: Coppa (capicollo) with melon and shrimp grilled on a metal plate (a la planca). The shrimp is hidden under the cone of coppa, sliced very thin. Wonderful combination of surf and turf, with the icy melon bringing you down to earth.

Corfu fritura, feta cheese snow flakes, and stuffed sardine

First: Corfu Fritura with feta cheese snow flakes and stuffed sardine. The inverted fragment of a cone on the left side is a “sponge” that has absorbed tomato juice. The ball to its right is made of “lavrak(i)”, or Mediterranean seabass, next to it is a shrimp, and then there is another ball of seabass, and two pieces of squid. You cannot see the stuffed sardine. On the right side you can see the “snow flakes” made of feta cheese. Overall, a tasty dish. I would have preferred to have less seabass and more stuffed sardines.

Bio chicken

Second: Bio Chicken. Cooked on a metal plate, deskinned, the bio chicken was juicy and tasty.

Goat

Second: Goat served with sea garlic cream, on a bed of koum kouat and sweet and sour “Mavrodafni” sauce. I particularly enjoyed the goat. Perfectly cooked, tender and moist.

Goat detail

I would like to make a special mention to the somelier of the restaurant, who served excellent greek wines from producers who have small volumes and therefore are not available in the retail stores. And the wine was included in the price of the set menu!

Although the restaurant was busy on a Friday night, the service was excellent.

Overall, great value for money, the complete dinner for two costs less than a meal in an ordinary fish taverna.

I will definitely visit Botrini’s restaurant again!

Topcu Restaurant, Akdeniz Mh., Vali KazIm Dirik Caddesi 5, Izmir, Turkey

Sideview of Cumhuriyet Meydani (Constitution Square) in Izmir, Turkey

During my visit to Izmir, Smyrni, Smyrna, I visited the Topcu Restaurant which is located very near the Constitution Square of the City.

Çiğ köfte (Chee kufta) in Topcu Restaurant, Izmir, Turkey

Once seated, I was greeted by a young waiter, who had on his tray a delicacy I had not tasted before. Almost by default, I accepted it and then tried it, knowing nothing about it.

I quote from Wikipedia:

“Çiğ köfte (Chee kufta) means ‘raw meatball’. It can also be written as one word, çiğköfte. It is a favorite Turkish snack and a specialty of southeastern Turkey.

Bulgur is kneaded with chopped onions and water until it gets soft. Then tomato and pepper paste, spices and very finely ground beef are added. This absolutely fatless raw mincemeat is treated with spices while kneading the mixture, which is said to “cook” the meat. Lastly, green onions, fresh mint and parsley are mixed in.

One spice that is associated with çiğ köfte, is isot, a very dark, almost blackish paprika, prepared in a special manner, and which is considered as indispensable for an authentically local preparation of çiğ köfte (and also of lahmacun). Although, isot is famous as the special dried pepper that is locally produced by farmers of Şanlıurfa, in fact, it is a general word used for pepper in Şanlıurfa.”

Lettuce Leafs, Topcu Restaurant, Izmir, Turkey

The plate of chee kufta came with fresh unseasoned lettuce leafs. I figured that the two should go together, and I was right. A totally refreshing combination, the lettuce fights off the spice and violent thrust of the chee kufta, that is of isor. Luckily I had on my table a nice glass of raki, and I must confess that I was in heaven. The trio of chee kufta, lettuce leafs and ice cold raki is a must!!!

Lamb Shish Kebab, Topcu Restaurant, Izmir, Turkey

For the main course I tried the lamb shish kebab. Absolutely delicious!!!! The meat was tender and juicy, and slightly marinated in herbs and vinegar. I immediately started wondering why we do not have a similar dish in Greece. I will certainly try it in the near future.

Lamb Shish Kebab, detail, Topcu Restaurant, Izmir, Turkey

I quote from Clifford A Wright’s “On Shish Kebabs”:

“Who has never heard of shish kebab? In Turkish, shish kebab, literally means “gobbets of meat roasted on a spit or skewers.” Probably the most famous preparation for grilled lamb, there seems to be countless recipes. It is said that shish kebab was born over the open field fires of the soldiers of the Turkic tribes that first invaded Anatolia, who used their swords to grill meat, as they pushed west from their homelands in Central Asia. Given the obvious simplicity of spit-roasting meat over a fire, I suspect its genesis is earlier. There is iconographical evidence of Byzantine Greeks cooking shish kebabs. But surely the descriptions of skewering strips of meat for broiling in Homer’s Odyssey must count for an early shish kebab.”

Green salad in Topcu Restaurant, Izmir, Turkey

The lamb was accompanied by a fresh green salad dressed in vinegar and olive oil. the freshness of the ingredients was unbelievable!!!! My attention was especially drawn to the ultra thin slices of raw beetroot, which I looove!!!! Crisp, subtle, a delight that cannot be replicated. A lesson on how the simplest ingredient can transform a simple dish as if by magic.

Overall, a wonderful experience, partucularly as it introduced  Çiğ köfte (Chee kufta) in my gastronomic life.

Passport Pier, Izmir, Turkey

The Restaurant of St John Hotel Chinatown, 1 Leicester Street, London

During my recent visit to London (October 2012) I had the opportunity to visit the restaurant in the St John Hotel in London’s Chinatown in two consecutive days.

The Hotel (and restaurant) is located a few meters away from Leicester Square and is easily accessible by all means of transportation.

The reason I went there has a name: Fergus Henderson.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London

Fergus Henderson is the “Nose to Tail” man. The simple principle that he pushed forward with his cooking is that when we slaughter an animal, it is a matter of respect but also of practicality, to eat all the bits. From nose to tail.

The Hotel in central London’s Leicester Square was opened in the Spring of 2011.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London: Johann Strauss Plaque

And it’s already a part of London history, housed in Manzi’s, the fish restaurant on the fringes of Chinatown that had been there forever, until suddenly it wasn’t.

Mr. Manzi one day sold everything, and headed off to Mone Carlo, giving to Fergus Henderson and his business partner Trevor Gulliver the opportunity to try out their hotel and restaurant concept in Central London.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London

The restaurant’s layout is simple with an open kitchen.

The staff is exceptional indeed. You feel right at home.

And what is most important for the weary traveller, is that the kitchen is open continuously from 12 noon to 12 midnight. So no matter when you can, you drop by and eat. This is exactly what I did on both days.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Devilled Pig’s Skin & Smoked Cod’s Roe

The two-day feast began with “Devilled Pig’s Skin & Smoked Cod’s Roe”.

When I saw it arriving to the table, I thought that this is not a dish, this is a sculpture. Nevertheless, I went ahead and enjoyed it.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Devilled Pig’s Skin & Smoked Cod’s Roe – detail

This is a dish that epitomizes the concept of the appetizer. Crunchy texture, accompanied by the creamy and flavorfull roe.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London: Black pudding and eggs

I absolutely loooooove black pudding, or boudin noir as it is known in France.

It is one of the humblest but terribly delicious dishes, a real tribute to blood and guts.

St John Hotel Chinatown, London: Black pudding and eggs – detail

It is only on the breakfast menu, but when I asked for it, at around 1730 hrs on a Friday afternoon, for what was a lunch and dinner meal after an exhaustive business meeting, it appeared miraculously in front of me. The restaurant’s maitr d’ hotel, a delightful lady, presented it with a glorious smile. The guys in the open kitchen were watching knowingly. I was in heaven! Needless to say, the divine pudding was “house” made.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Cuttlefish, Fennel & Green Sauce

Although Henderson is known as the “offal” man, St John Hotel have a menu with seafood items in addition to the “regular” meat and offal items. One of them was the cuttlefish with fennel and green sauce.

I was very curious to taste it, as cuttlefish is extremely light in flavour, and difficult in texture.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Cuttlefish, Fennel & Green Sauce – Detail

I was really lucky to taste this dish. Perfectly tender, full of flavor, and I had to ask for a spoon for the sauce.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Snail,s Duck Hearts & Lovage

The “Snails, Duck Hearts & Lovage”, sounded like a strange mix of diverse ingredients, but this was one more reason to taste it. And it worked!

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Snail,s Duck Hearts & Lovage – detail

I enjoyed the subtlety of the snails, and the robustness of the heart’s texture. The rather big chunks of fried bread were absolutely delicious.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Ox Heart, Beetroot & Red Cabbage

The “Ox Heart, Beetroot & Red Cabbage” is a tribute to texture.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Ox Heart, Beetroot & Red Cabbage – detail

Firm, robust muscle, perfectly accompanied by the crunchy red cabbage and the beetroot.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Bacon & Beans

And now the ultimate classic: “Bacon & Beans”. I do not recall bacon ever tasting so good.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Bacon & Beans – detail

After the black pudding, this is the second dish that made me feel that I was in my mother’s kitchen.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Bacon & Beans

The bacon was juicy and full of flavors, the beans tender and tasty, and the sauce absolutely divine, and thick.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli

I was very curious to taste a fish dish. Especially after having tasted the meat heavy weights. I chose “Brill, Leeks & Aioli”.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli – detail

The fish was perfectly cooked. As you can see.

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli – detail

I ate the skin and it was crispy and delicious!!!

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London: Brill, Leaks & Aioli – detail

I wish I could eat more leeks and aioli. But I couldn’t.

A good meal (or two meals for that matter) always ends with a new one.

So here is my list of what I wish to taste during my next visit: Mussels, Razor Clams, Lamb Sweetbreads, Pork Chops…

St John Restaurant, Chinatown, London

Thank you Mssrs. Henderson and Gulliver, thank you to all staff of the restaurant, You all gave me an unforgetable culinary experience.

By the breaking wave: Tavern “Ta Kymata” in New Epidavros, Greece (Παρα θιν’ αλος: Ταβερνα “Τα Κυματα” Νεα Επιδαυρος, Ελλας)

I continue to be in the “breaking wave” mood, in spite of the fact that the first autumn rain drops pelted the dry soil since yesterday.

Three and a alf years ago I wrote about Nikos Varverakis’ tavern in New Epidavros.

Today I return to find the same values and, fresh seafood, fresh as ever, and cooked with respect to Nature.

Epidavros, Asclepeion

It is only natural to visit Nea Epidavros (a small village 20 km northeast of Palea Epidavros) and Nikos Varverakis’ tavern after a visit to the Theater and the Asclepeion in Palea Epidavros.

The first thing I asked for was the octopus. I remembered that last time I had tasted it simmered in wine and it was delicious.

Octopus cooked in wine

I was not disappointed. First of all, the octopus was small, which means fished locally. Second, the head was “dirty”, which means untouched, with all the delights of the sea left intact.

This is the reason why seafood is better consumed fresh. Can you imagine eating a frozen octopus with a “dirty” head? I cannot.

Octopus – detail

However, it is not enough to have a really fresh small octopus. Cooking it is a real challenge, as it can be so easily destroyed.

Nikos is a master in simmering the octopus in wine until it reaches perfection. The sauce was so good, that whatever was left I ate with the fish!

Vlita

The greens that accompanied the fish were vlita, boiled to perfection, served with real olive oil.

One of the most abused greens, vlita, when fresh and young is so tender that it is usually overboiled and destroyed, losing its colour to a murky muddy green-grey.

Not in Nikos’ tavern. Silky leafs, melting in your mouth, with tasty olive oil that dressed them adequately to the extent that no lemon was needed.

Fried cod

Now to the fish. Nikos recommended – and of course I accepted – fried cod.

Cod fished in the local waters is a small fish, nothing compared to the 5-10 kg fish of the Atlantic.

It is tasty, has very few bones, but it has to be super fresh, otherwise it is no good.

Not to mention the frying. The oil has to be “fresh” because the flavor of the flesh is very subtle. A reused oil can spoil a perfectly good fish.

Not in Nikos’ tavern.

The cod was fried to perfection, and it was so fresh that I could literally see the gelatin flowing out of the fish.

Needless to say, I will – one day – return.

“Except for the times of suffering, as of fear, I would think that the worst moments are those of pleasure because the hope for them and the memory of them, which occupy the rest of our lives, are better and much more pleasant than the pleasures themselves.”

Memorable sayings of Filippo Ottonieri, Giacomo Leopardi

Fishtavern “Cavouri”, Marathon Beach: By the (breaking) sea wave

I continue to be in a “breaking sea wave” mood, and there is no better place to have lunch when you are in this mood than the beach itself, especially when the tables are less than one meter away from the breaking wave!

There was a nothern wind of medium strength, and the wave was breaking indeed!

The fresh wind comes from the Aegean, passing from the Southern tip of Evoia.

This wind has a cleansing effect on me.

It strips away all the mumbo-jumbo that clutters my Being and helps me see into my true (authentic) nature.

The breaking sea wave is my satori catalyst.

Unfortunately this glimpse into the true me does not last for very long.

However, I consider myself fortunate that it lasts even for a few seconds.

In any case, having achieved the “satori” state, I had to go for the unadulterated, pure taste of the fish.

The colorful salad that came as a prelude, acted as an evangelist for the main course.

A fresh sea bass, grilled to perfection.

Words fail me.

In addition to the subtle aroma of the sea, I was deeply absorbed by the gelatinous texture of the moist flesh.

The more fresh the flesh, the higher the gelatine effect.

Absolutely delicious!

But I must confess that a thought crossed my mind.

Given the quality of the fish, how would it be to have half of it served raw by Mizutani, and the other half grilled?

For the time being I will stay with the thought stuck in my mind. It may be a while before Mizutani visits Marathon.

Fresh grapes, cut a minute ago from the vines providing the very welcome shade, took away the aromas of the sea and brought Dionyssus to the table.

Ora sono ubriaco

d’ universo

I am now drunk

from the universe

(Giuseppe Ungaretti)

Surf and Turf: Lunch at the Bar of Hotel Metropole, Venice, Italy

Hotel Metropole is one of the hospitality jewels in Venice. This I knew before my last visit to Venice. What I did not know was that for two years now they serve some real food dishes (not only sandwiches and salds) in the bar of the hotel every day of the week from 1230 to 1430. Taking into account that the famous gourmet restaurant of the hotel (with two Michelin stars) does not serve lunch except on Saturday and Sunday, the bar is a practical solution for a visitor who wants to have lunch.

Hotel Metropole, Venice

The Hotel commands a fantastic position on the promenade of the “Riva degli Schiavoni”, a few meters away from St. Mark’s square.

Lunch serving area of the Bar at the Hotel Metropole

The Bar is located on the ground floor, on the left side as you enter and before you reach the reception. It has beautiful wooden panels which are used as displays for the owner’s collection of objects.

Being in Venice, it is proper to start with the surf side of the menu.

Gamberi "in saor" - Hotel Metropole, The Bar

Gamberi (prawns) “in saor” (sweet and sour). A delightful appetizer. The prawns are seared for one or two seconds, literally, and then served on a bed of cabbage and pickled red onions, with raisins and raspberries (lamponi). On top the chef placed a few finocchio leaves. The flavor combinations are incredible! And if you do not have all the rest, go and get prawns and taste them with raspberries.

Prawns "al saor" detail - Hotel Metropole, The Bar

The red onions are pickled and caramelized, adding the mild sweet and sour background to the taste of the prawns.

Cod with asparagi and potatoes with mustard sauce - Hotel Metropole, the Bar

Merluzzo is “cod” of the Adriatic Sea. It was served on a bed of mashed potatoes with mustard seeds, and asparagus.

Cod - detail

The Merluzzo was seared on the side of the skin for a couple of minutes in very strong fire, that made the skin crispy and the flesh juicy, firm, and succulent. The fish was served with fresh oregano and dill. Wonderful execution!!!

We now move to the turf side of the menu: Italian Delicacies are the first chapter.

Prosciutto crudo di Sauris is the prince of this dish of mixed cured meats. Sauris is a locality near Udine, where this tender and tasty prosciutto crudo is produced. It tasted like it has more character than the prosciutto di Parma.

Soppressa di Valdobbiadene

Salsiccia del Veneto (deer and pork)

Speck di Alto Adige. Perfect balance of salty and sweet. When the pig has had the proper food, the fat is sweet and flavorful.

Salame del Piave

The silky and full of flavour “Veal Carpaccio (di Manzo)” completed the tasting experience.

After the qualitative parts of the food, it is time to come to the value for money summary. Not only is the food of top quality, not only is the service excellent, the value for money of the Bar’s Lunch Menu is unbeatable, the best not only in Venice, but in most of Italy!!! But please please please, keep this little secret to yourselves.

Restaurant "v Zatisi" Prague, Czech Republic

Overture

This is a review of my visit to the restaurant “V Zatisi” in the historical center of Prague, in the Czech Republic.

I have already written a short statement in tripadvisor, as I believe that good work should be commented upon, especially for cities like Prague which do not exactly have a reputation of good dining.

I confess that I was prejudiced against Czech food, considering it more beer-hall food, rich in animal fat and poor in taste.

My visit to “V Zatisi” proved to me that with luck a visitor to Prague can have a delicious meal at a very reasonable price.

First Movement: Adaggio

It was a little after 2 pm in a very cold day (-12 degrees centigrade). My one day visit to Prague was from a business pespective over, as my meeting was concluded and I had a few hours to enjoy a decent meal before catching the flight back to my origin. These one day trips are usually tiring, and a good meal is the best antidote to the rat race.

I was greeted by LiborPavlicek, who recommended to me a menu of local dishes and local wines. I started with the Kulajda Soup, which is a traditional Bohemian soup with sour cream, mushrooms, dill, and quail egg.

The soup was delicious, with an extra touch of acidity which is due to the fact that the dill is pickled. I was impressed by the meaty texture of the mushrooms. Overall, an excellent start.

Second Movement: Allegro

Second course was a wonderful surprise, tender bites of mead roasted quails with barley risotto.

The quail was juicy, tender, gamey in flavor, as it should, while the risotto was crunchy and delicious .

I enjoyed it with a glass of “Rulandske sede” ie Pinot Gris, 2009, from Poddvorov. I was impressed by the fruity aroma of this wine. Highly enjoyable.

Third Movement: Vivace

The main course was the special of the day. Beef cheeks with potato gnocchi.

The meat was full of gelatin, tender and juicy, the red wine sauce thick and tasty, the potato gnocchi with parmezan, overall a well executed dish, to keep you going for many hours.

The cheeks were accompanied by a glass of “Zweigeltrebe” 2009 from Poddvorov.  It is a red wine that is popular in Austria and the Czech Republic. In the Wikipedia link you can read some of the background of the grape. I enjoyed its subtlety and comprehensive after taste.

Fourth Movement: Allegretto

To conclude an excellent meal, I opted for the vanilla bean creme brulee, which is my all time favourite desert.

Libor kindly suggested a glass of “Ryzlink rynsky”2007, from Popice. This is a sweet Rieslink made from a sdelection od dried grapes. Its taste was elegant, fruity, almost noble. A great finish to a great meal.