Restaurant Boroa Jaretxea, Bizkaia, Basque Country

Today I want to share my dining experience in “Restaurante Boroa Jaretxea“.

Boroa Jaretzea
Boroa Jaretzea

It is located in a renovated farmhouse 20 km east of Bilbao, near the highway connecting it to San Sebastian.

It was a sunny Saturday and the place was packed.

I had two options. The first was to take the gastronomic menu. The second was to go for pleasure maximization.

The gastronomic menu is a journey of discovery.But when you are in a big restaurant which is packed with people wishing to enjoy their Saturday lunch, I thought that it would be rather difficult for the chef’s brigade to deliver. I had no doubt that the menu was good, but there was the question of execution under extreme conditions,

Boroa Jaretxea
Boroa Jaretxea

Pleasure maximization on the other hand is a tricky approach. It presumes that you have already stored in your human system some experiences of intense pleasure, and seeks to attain similar levels of pleasure by reliving or approximating these experiences.

In any case, I opted for pleasure maximization. A few words regarding the topology of pleasure are in order. Imagine the pleasure domain as a terrain with valleys and peaks. Within a radius of a point there may be one or more peaks. The peaks I chose are two, hoping that a third one is also nearby.

Here are the results.

"Kokotxas de merluza al pilpil con almejas de cuchillo" hake kokotxas with clams.
“Kokotxas de merluza al pilpil con almejas de cuchillo” hake kokotxas with clams.

The first peak of pleasure maximization is kokotxas, delicious parcels of meat full of gelatin, extracted from the chin of the fish. I got to know kokotxas in 2003 in the Basque country, and ever since I suffer from “kokotxas deprivation” syndrome.. So any chance to enjoy a good kokotxas dish is precious.

Kokotxas - detail
Kokotxas – detail

The dish in Boroa was “Kokotxas de merluza al pilpil con almejas de cuchillo”. This is translated into “Hake kokotxas with clams.” Absolutely delicious! I could eat three more without any complaint! But I resisted the temptation so that I could move to the second peak of pleasure maximization.

Tuna
Tuna Fillet

The second peak of pleasure maximization was tuna. I love tuna, especially the belly. Boroa could serve me a juicy fillet steak “taco de atun”, and I could not resist.  The fish comes daily from Cadiz in the Mediterranean, and it is fished with the Almadraba method. Tuna’s meat is red because its blood does not run through veins, but through tissue. The steak must be juicy and medium – rare. If you cook it even slightly more, the incredible flavor and texture is destroyed.

Tuna fillet
Tuna fillet

Tuna was a very popular fish in ancient Greece. Athinaeos wrote about culture and dining in the Greco-Roman world of the 3rd century AD. His masterpiece is considered to be the first cookbook, but it is a lot more. He writes:

“(The fish) was named ‘thunnos’ (θύννος) because of its darting movement.” The name ‘thunnos’ comes form the verb ‘thyno’ which means to rush, to move quickly. (Athinaeos, Deipnosophistae, 302b, Vol. 7)

Zucchini fritters
Zucchini fritters  tempura

The tuna steak was served with zucchini tempura fritters and soy sauce. Do I see a Japanese streak here, or am I just dreaming? Japan in the Basque Country!

Carranzana and Idiazabal Cheese
Carranzana and Idiazabal Cheese

The third peak of pleasure maximization was cheese. The Basque country is full of goats, lamb, cows, and they produce delicious cheese. So I aksed the maître d‘ to taste some local cheeses. He brought me two: Idiazabal and Carranzana. Absolutely delicious!

I accompanied the mal with the local wine, txakoli, produced a few kilometers away. Low acidity, fruity taste, bright light color, make this wine perfect for fish and seafood. Surprisingly, it went very well with the mighty cheeses!

All in all a wonderful experience, and I am glad to say that in the occasion the pleasure maximization approach worked well.

Eduardo Chillida: Comb of the Winds, La Concha Bay, San Sebastian, Basque Country

I wrote about the Basque Sculptor Eduardo Chillida some time ago.

Eduardo Chillida working on the terrace of Mas Bernhard painting his fired sculptures. St Paul de Vence 1973.
Eduardo Chillida working on the terrace of Mas Bernhard painting his fired sculptures. St Paul de Vence 1973.

The first time was on freedom, quoting what my friend Manolis wrote commenting on a photograph I took when I visited the Museum – Estate Chillida near San Sebastian.

The second time it was in reference to his homage to the German philosopher Martin Heidegger.

Eduardo Chillida in the Comb of the Winds
Eduardo Chillida in the Comb of the Winds

Today, after my second visit to the monumental installation “Comb of the Winds”, I want to write about it. This was my second visit, the first being in 2010. The weather was windy and cloudy both times. The sea was rough, foamy waves all over. Something tells me this is the best weather to appreciate the installation.

Map of San Sebastian
Map of San Sebastian

Before I proceed, it is important that we look at the map and locate the installation in the San Sebastian area. You can see the installation on the left hand side, inside the red ellipse, which is the western edge of the bay, the foot of Igueldo hill. The Santa Clara island is in the middle, and the Urgull hill on the right, the eastern side.  Visitors will need to follow the signs to “Ondarreta Beach”. Interestingly enough, there are no public signs for “El Peine del Viento”.

Looking east: Santa Clara island
Looking east: Santa Clara island – January 2015. Photo NM.

I call the “Comb of the Winds” an installation, because it comprises three sculptures mounted on rocks.

Formally, it is more than that, it is a project, comprising the installation and the plaza (square) in front.

The plaza
The plaza before the installation was called “Paseo del Tenis”

The plaza in front of the installation was designed by the architect Luis Peña Ganchegui, who worked with Chillida for the first time in this project.

The project started in 1966 and took eleven years to complete in 1976.

The main rock before the installation
The main rock before the installation

The initial idea was to place one sculpture on the main rock.

But soon after they started working on the designs, Chillida realized that the sculpture was going to attract all the attention, and this was contrary to what he wanted to achieve, which was to use the sculpture as a means to highlight the space around it and the environment.

08_peine_viento_07

Chillida loved this edge of the San Sebastian coastline, at the foot of the Igueldo hill. He retreated there often, to enjoy the sea, the wind, the rocks. It was this atmosphere that he wanted to enhance and promote with his work, rather than have his work dominate the natural setting and in this sense, distort it.

The Comb of the Winds - January 2015
The Comb of the Winds – January 2015. Photo NM.

This is why he came up with the idea of three sculptures instead of one.

Luis Chillida, son of sculptor Eduardo Chillida, suggested in an interview (1) that the three sculptures represent the three domains of time: past, present, future.

The Comb of the Winds - January 2015. Photo NM.
The Comb of the Winds – January 2015. Photo NM.

The sculptor’s son claims that the sculpture mounted on the left side and the one on the rock right opposite to it are the past and the present, whereas the thirs sculpture that appears to be far away is the future, a future that blends in the horizon.

The  sculpture at the foot of the Igueldo Hill
The sculpture at the foot of the Igueldo Hill. Photo NM.

In his writings, the sculptor speaks for himself (2, p.61):

“I want for the space in my work to be like the grease that allows a machine to function properly. Masses that slip and engage with each other, but I do not want to start any machine. I want my pieces to be quiet and silent, the only way to partially escape the influence of time.”

The sculpture on the eastern rock - January 2015. Photo NM
The sculpture on the eastern rock – January 2015. Photo NM.

All three sculptures are made of steel.  Each weighs approximately 13 tonnes and is anchored to the rock in two pIaces. They were made at Patricio Echeverria’s industrial forge in Legazpia.

The northern sculpture - January 2015. Photo NM.
The northern sculpture – January 2015. Photo NM.

Chillida “worked” the material directly, he did not use a model or a mold. As the sculptures were big and complex, he built them in two parts each, and then connected the pieces.  Chillida learned from a local blacksmith the demanding labour of the forge, from stoking a fire and handling a bellows to pounding the malleable metal to achieve a desired form. “A piece of iron is an idea itself,” he said. “I must gain complete mastery over it and force it to take on the tension which I feel within myself.” (3)

Interestingly, after the mid 1960’s Chillida transitioned from working with steel to working with marble.

Moving the sculptures
Moving the sculptures

Moving the sculptures and installing them was not an easy operation.  They had to set up supporting structures for moving and lifting the heavy sculptures. One must note that the cranes of today were not available back then.

08_peine_viento_06

Today the three sculptures occupy their place anchored on the three rocks, day and night, be it sunny or rainy. The people of San Sebastian visit the Comb of the Winds on every possible occasion and they love it. There is something deeply egalitarian about the installation. It brings all people together to enjoy the sea landscape and their heritage. It is like part of this heritage are the strange metal structures hanging from the rocks.

Comb of the Winds - January 2015. Photo NM.
Comb of the Winds – January 2015. Photo NM.

Are they anchors?

Are they letters?

We do not know, and we do not need to know.

But what I know is that like the temples in the valley of Paestum in Italy, they exist in harmony with the landscape. It is like they belong there, like the landscape cannot exist without them and they cannot exist without the landscape.

Whereas in Paestum the temples are in a valley, in the Comb of the Winds is literally submerged in the foam of the sea waves. But in both cases the resplendent harmony is there.

Like the temples of Ancient Greece, Chillida’s sculptures are open. Space makes sense only when you make sense of the vacuum, of emptiness.

The analogy with temples is not limited to the harmony and the integration with the landscape, or the use of emptiness to denote space.

In a sense the “Comb of the Winds” is an open temple where you can pray to whoever and whatever you believe in, or contemplate life, or…

Concha Bay, San Sebastian. Photo NM.
Concha Bay, San Sebastian. Photo NM.

“In a certain way I am a disciple of the sea and, consequently, also of Bach because Bach is very similar to the sea. I do not know if Bach ever saw the ocean, but his work has a very impressive relationship to it. And he is among my mentors.” Eduardo Chillida (2, pg.30)

Eduardo Chillida at work
Eduardo Chillida at work

“…I have found that time exists in my sculpture. It exists in a version that is not the standard temporal one. Rather, this version is time’s brother: space. Space is the twin brother of time. They are two concepts that are absolutely parallel and similar. And because I am so conditioned by space, I have always been interested in time. In fact, my time is very slow:traditional time – that of the clock – does not interest me. I am interested in a concept of time that is about harmony, rythm and dimensions.” Eduardo Chillida (2, pg. 32)

Sources

1. El Peine del Viento. Mas Context.

2. Eduardo Chillida, Writings. Richter Verlag, 2009.

3. Eduardo Chillida. Obituary. The Telegraph.

"Arantzan zu?!" (Thou, among the thorns?!) – The Basilica and Sanctuary of Arantzazu in the Basque Country

According to the legend, these were the words of the shepherd Rodrigo de Balanzategui, who discovered the sculpture of the Virgin in a thorn-bush in the Onati county in the South of the Basque Country.

These words named the place Arantzazu, a holy place for the Basques, where they have erected a Sanctuary.

I visited the Sanctuary of Arantzazu more than a month ago, during a day that the skies were grey and the water was falling continuously, all day long.  As we approach the Virgin’s Assumption on the 15th of August, I felt is would be appropriate to share with you some of my pictures from the Basque Madonna.

The whole area of the Sanctuary is developed for people. You can walk, rest, enjoy the natural environment, visit the Church and the other edifices. The Basilica was rebuilt in 1951, when it was decided that no further extension of the old building made sense.

The Church is modern. The imposing belfry tower has a minimal cross on top.

The main entrance of the Church is modern but powerful.

The spikes of the facade are “thorns”.

The four doors of the main entrance were made by Eduardo Chillida. In the page of Onati dedicated to Arantzazu, we read: “The four doors that provide access to the church were designed by Eduardo Chillida and seem to be almost below ground, being set at the bottom of a steep staircase.”

“With their mineral appearance, the doors suggest the entrance to the underground world, an impression which is further reinforced inside the church by the massive high altarpiece, which measures over 600 square metres. The altarpiece was designed by Lucio Muñoz and is carved in wood of many different colors.”

The 14 Apostles guarding the entrance are the work of Jorge Oteiza. The Bilbao Guggenheim organized in 2005 a major retrospective of Oteiza’s work. We read in the Exhibition program: ” In the same year (1950), he began work tentatively on a major commission for the statuary of the basilica at Aránzazu, a huge undertaking finally realized in 1969. Here, religious motifs are depersonalized; figures are emptied, opened to space, and filled with spiritual content.”

The Pieta crowns the 14 Apostles.

The crypt is accessible from the inside of the Basilica. It is utterly modern, and captivating. The Onati site comments: “The crypt, decorated by Nestor Basterretxea, contains 18 murals of exceptional expressive strength, which have a somewhat aggressive use of color.”

The 15th century statute of the Virgin.

May her Mercy envelop and deliver us more true and free to the world.

May her Grace help us to sustain pain and sorrow.

May her Heart keep us warm in the cold and dark terrain of solitude and remembrance.

Exiting the Chillida doors.

Time to go.

Time to get lost in the mountains and the clouds.

Images from the Basque Country

Today I want to share some images from my beloved Basque Country.

I first visited Bilbao and San Sebastian back in 2003 and since then I have them in my heart. As I visited more and more, I started appreciating the country and not only the two cities.

The Guggenheim Museum
The Guggenheim Museum

This beautiful structure was the first reason I wanted to visit Bilbao. I became aware of it back in 1999 and put it on my list as a place to visit. It is true that the museum by itself is a good reason to visit Bilbao. Is it the only one?

The Guggenheim Museum
The Guggenheim Museum

Of course not! The Basque country is a place where you can enjoy food to the fullest, and at the same time you can enjoy nature, be it the sea, or the mountains!

Bacalao
Bacalao

Salted dry cod – bacalao – is one of the other reasons to visit the Basque country! In San Sebastian there is a shop specializing in bacalao, they sell some 20 different cuts!  The “steak” is better than beef!

Fishing Vessels in San Sebastian
Fishing Vessels in San Sebastian

Fishing is traditionally a major activity, these fishing vessels testify to the fact.

From Bilbao to San Sebastian
From Bilbao to San Sebastian

The road from Bilbao to San Sebastian is an opportunity to see the sea coast in all of its rocky magnificence, and enjoy – weather permitting – the beautiful sandy beaches.

Lekeitio
Lekeitio

The Basque people love the sea, and you can see the proof in the hundreds of boats in every small town.

Boats
Boats

The mountains are a short drive away.

View of San Sebastian from the North
View of San Sebastian from the North

The mountainous terrain provides for excellent lambs meat and wool.

North of San Sebastian
North of San Sebastian

Back in San Sebastian, you can enjoy the city and the relaxed atmosphere.

View of San Sebastian
View of San Sebastian

Ang go to the patriarch of Basque cuisine for a nice meal!

Arzak talking to his customers
Arzak talking to his customers

Juan Mari Arzak has three Michelin stars since 1973! When I first visited his restaurant in 2003, I was terrified, having the experience of 3-star restaurants in France. But the Basque country is different! In Arzak’s restaurant I felt like eating in the taverna of my neighborhood. People were normal, and Arzak obviously knew them all! They are people from his city, and they consider Arzak’s their own restaurant! Dress code is smart casual, and thats it!

Jeff Koon's flowers in the Guggenheim
Jeff Koon's flowers in the Guggenheim

I close this short journey with a bunch of flowers from the Guggenheim.

In case you are interested, I have written articles in this blog about:

Bacalao Pil Pil – Μπακαλιαρος πιλ πιλ (μια συνταγη απο τη μεγαλη χωρα των Βασκων)

Today I want to share the fantastic Basque recipe of bacalao pil pil. I do not try to give an english name, there is no point. Once you taste it, you will remember it with or without name!

Σημερα παρουσιαζω μια υπεροχη αυθεντικη και εντελως φυσικη συνταγη απο τη μεγαλη χωρα των Βασκων με το ονομα bacalao pil pil. Η αποδοση στα ελληνικα ειναι “μπακαλιαρος πιλ πιλ”. Ο πλησιεστερος ελληνικος ορος θα ηταν ηπια συβραση (τα σκορδα με τον μπακαλιαρο) αλλα δεν τον θεωρω δοκιμο.

I tried this dish in San Sebastian at the beginning of the 21st century, and I have since fallen in love with it. As every dish, it requires top quality ingredients, in this case salted cod (bacalao) and the special cut  with the name (surprise) “pil pil”. In case you cannot find the cut (impossible outside Spain) buy the best quality fillet.

Δοκιμασα για πρωτη φορα αυτο το πιατο στο Σαν Σεμπαστιαν στις αρχες του 2000 και απο τοτε το εχω ερωτευτει. Οπως καθε καλο πιατο με ψαρι, απαιτει την καλυτερη πρωτη υλη. Εν προκειμενω η πρωτη υλη ειναι φιλετο αλατισμενου  μπακαλιαρου που στην ελλαδα μας ειναι δυσκολο να το βρουμε. Αγοραζουμε λοιπον τον καλυτερο αλατισμενο μπακαλιαρο που μπορουμε να βρουμε και κοβουμε το πιο χοντρο κομματι απο το φιλετο.

Ξαρμυρισμενος και λαχταριστος
Ξαρμυρισμενος και λαχταριστος

What you see in the picture is the real cut I bought from San Sebastian, accompanied by the second most important ingredient, garlic!

Αυτο που βλεπετε στην φωτογραφια το αγορασα απο το Σαν Σεμπαστιαν και το διετηρησα στην καταψυξη.  Διπλα στα φιλετα βλεπετε το ετερον σημαντικον και ουσιωδεστατον συστατικον, σκορδακι μυρωδατο και τσαχπινικο, ετοιμο να κατακτησει με τα αρωματα του και τον πλεον δυσκολο πελατη!

The recipe is a lesson in physics and chemistry.

Η συνταγη βασιζεται στους νομους της φυσικης και της χημειας.

Take a deep frying pan (that has a thick enoough bottom that absorbs and keeps the heat) pour a lot of olive oil and garlic cloves and keep the fire at low-medium level (3 out of 10). Once it starts sizzling, add the filets with the skin down.

Παιρνουμε ενα τηγανι με πατο (δηλαδη οχι αυτα που ειναι σα φλιδα, αλλα εκεινα που η βαση τους ειναι αρκετα παχια για να μπορεσει να αποθηκευσει πολλη θερμοτητα στη διαρκεια του μαγειρεματος). Ριχνουμε αφθονο ελαιολαδο στο τηγανι, αφθονα σκορδα και αναβουμε τη φωτια στο 3/10.  Αμεσως μετα, τοποθετουμε τα φιλετα με την πετσα να ακουμπα στο τηγανι.

Μολις αρχιζει το μαγειρεμα
Μολις αρχιζει το μαγειρεμα

Immediately start moving and shaking the pan so that the fillets do not stick. Keep doing this, do not be lazy, it is the secret to the success of the dish! After 3-4 minutes the olive oil starts thickening, as it mixes with the gelatin of the fish. Do not increase the heat, keep it medium.

Αμεσως μετα αρχιζουμε να τσουλαμε το τηγανι – σερνοντας το στην επιφανεια της κουζινας, για να μην κολλησει το φιλετο. Μετα απο 3-4 λεπτα το λαδι αρχιζει να πηζει, αφου η πετσα αι η σαρκα κατα δευτερο λογο εκρεουν το φυσικο ζελε που περιεχουν. Η ρυθμιση της φωτιας ειναι ιδιαιτερα σημαντικη, αφου αν ειναι πολυ δυνατη το ζελε θα στερεοποιηθει και θα γινει μια μαυριλα, ενω αν η φωτια ειναι χαμηλη, θα φτιαξουμε μια ωραια σουπα.

Σχεδον ετοιμο!
Σχεδον ετοιμο!

While the sauce keeps thickening, add a couple of chili peppers to enhance the flavor. After 10 minutes (without touching or turning the fillets) the dish is ready. You may use a spoon to pour the sauce over the fillets but nothing more than that!

Στο μεταξυ εχουμε προσθεσει καυετερες πιπεριες για προσθετο αρωμα και σε 10 λεπτα το ελαιολαδο εχει σχεδον πηξει. Προσοχη, σε καμια περιπτωση δεν γυριζουμε τα φιλετα! Αν θελετε ριχνετε με ενα κουταλι το ελαιολαδο απο πανω, αλλα γυρισμα ποτε και για κανεναν!

Let the flavors settle for 5 minutes and serve.

Μετα απο 15 (συνολικα) λεπτα σερβιρουμε.

Σερβιρισμενο, ετοιμο να πλανεψει και την πιο απαιτητικη!
Σερβιρισμενο, ετοιμο να πλανεψει και την πιο απαιτητικη!

Unless you taste this I cannot describe it!

Δεν μπορω να περιγραψω τα αρωματα, αλλα και την υφη του εδεσματος!

The cod is firm in texture and delicious, as it has been showered by the garlic and chill flavors!

Ο μπακαλιαρος αυτος ειναι καλυτερος απο αστακο! ( ενταξει, μια μικρη υπερβολη, αλλα δικαιως).

Η σαρκα ειναι μεστη, σφριγηλη και πεντανοστιμη!

The olive oil sauce is divine, the garlic subtle and moderate.  The garlic is like comfit, and melts in your mouth.

Η σαλτσα με το ελαιολαδο, το ζελε και τα σκορδα, εχει γινει αριστουργημα, με την καυτερη υποκρουση που εδωσαν οι πιπεριες αλλα και την ευγενεια του ελαιολαδου στο γευστικο βαθος, ενω το σκορδο αποδιδει ολη την γκαμα των αρωματων του με αιδω και φειδω.

Λεπτομερεια
Λεπτομερεια

In some recipes they suggest throwing potatoes in the dish and other things. I do not suggest such a thing, keep the dish simple and avoid the bastardization. Enjoy each bite like a sip of a good wine, let it drive you crazy before you swallow.

Σε καποιες συνταγες λενε να βαλουμε πατατες και αλλα παρελκομενα. Σας προτεινω να μην βαλετε τιποτε αλλο! Απολαυστε καθε μπουκια με αργοσυρτη κινηση οπως τα πλυντηρια ρουχων πανε μια γυροβολια τα ρουχα μεσα στον καδο. Σχεδον σα να πινετε ενα καλο κρασι. Μην βιαστειτε να καταπιειτε την τροφη, αφηστε την να τρελανει τον ουρανισκο και να απαγαγει την γλωσα σας!

A white wine with a lot of body is a must.

Ενα καλο σαβατιανο κρασι ειναι οτι πρεπει, γιατι ειναι διακριτικο και συνοδευει με σεβασμο αυτο το θαυμα της φυσεως.

Akelare Restaurante, Pedro Subijana – San Sebastian, Basque Country

Καθως μπαινει το φθινόπωρο, ανέσυρα από το αρχείο μου μια καλοκαιρινή επίσκεψη στο εστιατόριο του Pedro Subijana, Akelare. Κυριακή μεσημέρι, το εστιατόριο τίγκα, δεν έπεφτε καρφίτσα.

Η θ�α
Η θέα

Η θάλασσα που βλέπετε είναι ο Ατλαντικός. Το εστιατόριο είναι χτισμένο σε μια βραχώδη πλαγιά που βλέπει αυτο που δείχνει η φωτογραφία.

Η σεμνη τελετή άρχισε με τα amuse bouche, που αποδίδονται ως “τέρψεις του ουρανίσκου”.

Τ�ρψεις Νο 1
Τέρψεις Νο 1

Οι τέρψεις δεν περιγράφονται εύκολα, γιατί είναι ιδιοσκευάσματα του σεφ που αλλάζουν κάθε λίγο και λιγάκι και δεν παραπέμπουν σε κάτι σταθερό.  Είναι η αποτύπωση μιας παιχνιδιάρικης διάθεσης στη γεύση, τα χρώματα και την υφή. Εκείνο που μπορώ να πω με βεβαιότητα είναι ότι η ανάμνηση τους είναι όμορφη.

Η συνέχεια περιλαμβάνει τα πιάτα του μενου με τον τίτλο “Bekarki”.

Πιάτο Πρώτο: Little pearls of foie gras and sour salad

Pearls of Foie-Gras
Pearls of Foie-Gras

Εδώ ο σεφ μας αιφνιδιάζει με το καλημέρα σας, αφού μας σερβίρει αυτο το υπέροχο φουά σαν πέρλες!

Π�ρλες φουά - λεπτομ�ρεια
Πέρλες φουά - λεπτομέρεια

Οι περλες διασπάνε την επίθεση του φουά στον ουρανίσκο σε μικρές δόσεις, και καθιστούν την όλη εμπειρία πολύ περισσότερο απολαυστική, αφού έχεις τη δυνατότητα να γευθείς το φουά σε μικρες δόσεις, να αφομοιώσεις τα γευστικά ερεθίμσατα και να ζητησεις με την ησυχια σου και την επομενη δοση.

Πιατο δευτερο: Wild mushrooms and egg pasta

Wild mushrooms with egg pasta
Wild mushrooms with egg pasta

Εδω ο σεφ μας οδηγει σιγουρα και σταθερα στον πλουτο της γευσης της πρωτης ύλης, των αγριων μανιταριών με την εντονη γευση τους. Για το λογο αυτο τα συνοδευει με τα πολύ διακριτικα μακαρονακια για να σπασει λιγο την ενταση της γευσης.

Η χωρα των Βασκων ειναι ενας συνδυασμος απο θαλασσα και βουνο, λίγα χιλιομετρα μακρυα απο το εστιατοριο ειναι τα βουνα με χιλια δυο καλα, αναμεσα σε αυτα και πολλες ποικιλιες μανιτάρια.

Μανιτάρια με παστα - Λεπτομερεια
Μανιτάρια με παστα - Λεπτομερεια

Πιατο τριτο: Squid in warm salt, its broth and ink sand

Ηρθε η ωρα της αμεσοτητας της παρασκευης και γευσης, οπου ο χρονος που μεσολαβει απο την παρασευη του εδεσματος μεχρι την αναλωση του ειναι ελαχιστος. Αρχικά φέρνει το πιατο οπως το βλεπετε στη φωτο που ακολουθεί. Με τα ποδαρακια το συμπυκνωμενο ζωμο και το στερεοποιημενο μελάνι.

Καλαμάρι
Καλαμάρι

Μετα φέρνει το ποτηράκι με ζεστο νερό και αλάτι, οπου εμβαπτιζει τον νωπό κορμο του καλαμαριου και τον εναποθετει πανω στο συμπυκνωμενο ζωμο.

Εμβαπτιση
Εμβαπτιση

Η αμεσοτητα της γευσης είναι εντυπωσιακή. Ο δε συνδυασμός της ζεστης σαρκας με το στεροποιημενο μελανι βγαζει πολλα αρωματα!

Καλαμάρι
Καλαμάρι

Πιατο τεταρτο: Γλωσσα με κοράλια

Εδω ο δημιουργός παιζει με τις αισθησεις αλλα και τη γλώσσα (οχι το ψαρι), αφου τα κοραλια ειναι μια οπτικη φαντασια.

Γλώσσα
Γλώσσα

Το ψαρι εχει σφιχτη και ζουμερη σαρκα και ειναι ψημενο στο οριο, ωστε να μην ειναι ωμο αφενος, αλλα και να διατηρει τα αρωματα του αφετερου.

Παιτο πεμπτο: Γουρουνακι γαλακτος

Γουρουνακι Γαλακτος
Γουρουνακι Γαλακτος

Σαν λουκουμάκι! Ουδεν ετερον σχολιον.

Ακολούθησε κατά παράκλησιν και απόκλισιν εκ του μενου μια ποικιλία τυριων. Πανδαισία! Η ντόπια παραγωγη είναι αρίστη και σε ολη την πειοχή υπάρχουν υψηλής ποιότητας τυροκομεία.

Στο σημείο αυτό η χωρα των Βασκων συναντα την Ανδαλουσία, αφου η ποικιλία συνοδευτηκε απο το υπεροχώτατο κρασί ποικιλίας Pedro Ximenez,  εσοδείας 1979.

Ποικιλία τυριών
Ποικιλία τυριών

Η ολοκλήρωσις επήλθε με  τάρτα μηλου, καλυμμένη με φύλο σοκολάτας που αναγράφει το ονομα του εστιατοριου. Το τελευταίο μικρό παιχνιδι του σεφ με τις αισθησεις μας.

Τάρτα Μήλου
Τάρτα Μήλου

Και οπως παντα στη υπεροχη χωρα των Βασκων, το φαγητο ειναι γιορτη, ανοικτη σε ολους ανεξαρτητως ταξεως και καταγωγης και προελευσεως, πηγαινεις χωρις γραβατα και σακκακι, και απολαμβανεις.

Ο μεγας σεφ Pedro Subijana ενδεδυμενος με την στολη του περασε απο ολα τα τραπεζια, χαιρετισε τους πελατες και ειπε και την καλη του την κουβεντα. Υπενθυμιζω οτι ηταν Κυριακη μεσημερι και οτι ο σεφ εχει αρκετα λεφτα να περασει αρκετες ζωες ακομα.

Επιμύθιο πολιτιστικής φύσεως: στο διπλανο τραπεζι καθοντουσαν δυο νεα παιδια απο μια πολη παραδιπλα, απλουστατα ντυμενα, σεμνωτατα, και πανω απολα χαρουμενα, πιασαμε κουβεντα και ολα τα σχετικα. Καθως φευγαμε ολοι μαζι ειδα τα παιδια να κατευθυνονται σε μια φεραρι, να μπαινουν μεσα, και να φευγουν σαν τον ανεμο.

Andra Mari Restaurant, Galdakao, near Bilbao

I found Andra Mari in the Red Michelin Guide and visited it last year (2007). I was positively impressed to the extent that I thought I just was lucky and everything turned out well during my visit. This year I visited Andra Mari again, wondering what the experience would be. I will try to describe it in this post.

The veranda
The veranda

The weathwer was gorgeous and I had the pleasure of eating al fresco in the veranda. Galdakao is a small town 10 km southeast of Bilbao, and is very easy to reach.

The view from the veranda is peaceful, and the air aviation enthusiasts can see all the airplanes as they approach the Bilbao airport, without suffering any noise effects, as they are still at a high altitude (I would say over 500 meters).

The view south
The view south

I had the “Andra Mari” Menu, which is the showpiece of the chef’s artistry and skill.

The start was “foie gras terrine with Pedro Jimenez Jelly”.

Foie Gras Terrine
Foie Gras Terrine

The second dish was “Sardine Fillets with roasted peppers and parmesan cheese”.

Sardine Fillets
Sardine Fillets

An apotheosis of colours followed, with the title “Grilled Summer Vegetables”.

Grilled Summer Vegetables
Grilled Summer Vegetables

The grilled lobster that followed was served with “Amaranto” risotto, which is in fact a cereal popular in South America.

Grilled Lobster
Grilled Lobster

What followed was my favourite dish a year ago. A cottage egg served with octopus. The richness of the egg combined with the octopus flavours will remain unforgettable.

Egg with grilled octopus
Egg with grilled octopus

The tuna loin that came next was a step down from the platform of excitement that the lobster and the octopus had built. I would nopt mind if it weren’t there at all.

Red Tuna Loin with Mango and Apple
Red Tuna Loin with Mango and Apple

To conclude they served a dish with Iberian pork cuts. The taste of the meat was superb, but the dish lacked the finesse and creative intensity of the previous dishes (excluding the tuna). I could live without it and have more lobster with the South American Cereal.

Iberian Pork
Iberian Pork

Deserts came next, starting with a junket with cherries.

Junket with Cherries
Junket with Cherries

To wrap things up they served a sponge cake with pears.

Sponge Cake with Peaches
Sponge Cake with Peaches

Overall, the experience was of the highest level, and in terms of value for money it tops the Basque Charts.

Andra MAri is now formly on my standard Basque Itinerary and for a very good reason. It serves excellent food at a very reasonable price!

Zuberoa Restaurant, Oiarzun, near San Sebastian, Donostia

My first visit to Zuberoa was on a Monday this summer. The drive from San Sebastian to the village is nice, and you can explore the countryside before going to he restaurant. The fresh clean air can do wonders for your appetite (if you need such a build up).

The facade of Zuberoa
The facade of Zuberoa

The Amuse bouche sequence started with “Creme de foie, and truffle, in a Pedro Jimenez sauce”. Light and tasty.

It continued with “Spider Crab, Bakalao and Potato Chips”. The intensity of the taste in the creamy substance was impressive!

Creme de foie, truffle, Pedro Jimenez
Creme de foie, truffle, Pedro Jimenez
Spider Crab, Bakalao, and Potato Chips
Spider Crab, Bakalao, and Potato Chips

The Gastronomic Menu started with “Lobster carpaccio with ginger flavour, grapefruit and soya”. Of all the dishes I tasted, this was the only one that I would consider in a state of development, or exploration. The balance of the taste was on the sweet side, and this presented a problem for me. I would have preferred it to be more subtle, with nuances of the sweet and bitter coming out of the background here and then, letting the almost liquid lobster to play the first role.

Lobster carpaccio
Lobster carpaccio

Red Shrimp from Palombs, its coral oil and salad. When I saw it for the first time, it reminded me of Gauguin! The taste was equally pleasing, the shrimp resting on ultra tender chunks of pork fat. The dish was so delicious that I had the urge to scoop up the sauce with a bit of bread. I raised my head and looked around. Almost everyone in the nearby tables was doing the same.

Red Shrimp from Palombs
Red Shrimp from Palombs

Curry flavoured sea fruits in their own juice. Another explosion of taste awaited me in this dish. The ingredients were ultra fresh, almost raw, the aroma of the sea coming through every bite.

Sea fruits
Sea fruits

Poached egg, poultry cream, truffle, celery and potato chips. I am a seafood lover, and I must confess that after the sea fruits, the egg had no chance to impress me. It tasted good, but could not provide the complex harmonies of the sea fruits.

Poached egg
Poached egg

White fresh beans with Jabugo ham aroma and sauteed squid. A divine combination, the squid providing the intese flavours, and the beans presenting the smoother side of life.

Beans and squid
Beans and squid

Red tuna fillet, basil flavoured tomato with pistachio oil and balsamico of Modena. The exquisite quality of the tuna demands a dash of cooking over fire. Excellent!

Red Tuna
Red Tuna

Roasted Lamb. I had the menu choice of a roast pigeon or suckling pig, but the Maitr D recommended the roasted lamb. I thank him for that, as it was divine. I must say that a classy lady in the nearby table used her hands to enjoy this dish. Who could blame her?

Roasted Lamb
Roasted Lamb

Plateau du fromage. Unfortunately I have not written them down, theyt are all local, brom The Basque Country and delicious.

Selection of local Cheese
Selection of local Cheese

Following my request, the kind waitress served at the end a spanish digestive, called “Abadia di Cova, Licor de Hierbas”.

Licor de Hierbas
Licor de Hierbas

All in all, I am quite impressed by “Zuberoa”. The food is excellent, the service formal but also human, the price is very reasonable, the overall value for money is top.