A meat lover’s paradise in Illinois, USA: Ream’s Elburn Market

Chicago, a poem by Carl Sandburg (January 6, 1878 – July 22, 1967)
Chicago, a poem by Carl Sandburg (January 6, 1878 – July 22, 1967)

I have written in the past about “Antica Macelleria Cecchini” in Panzano, Tuscany, where my good friend Dario Cecchini transforms butchering into the poetry of every living.

I like meat markets, I like butcher shops.

It is not only the products but the atmosphere.

Going west to Elburn
Driving west to Elburn

Today I want to share a totally different experience in a meat lover’s paradise in Illinois, USA: Ream’s Elburn Market.

Elburn is a small town, some 60 miles west of Chicago, in the middle of Illinois fields.

Ream’s Elburn Market is a family meat market that attracts meatlovers from the Chicago and suburbs area, also known as Chicagoland.

Randy Ream, (right) owner of Ream’s Meat Market, with his son, Joel (Elburn Herald, 2011)
Randy Ream, (right) owner of Ream’s Meat Market, with his son, Joel (Elburn Herald, 2011)

Lynn Meredith, of the Elburn Tribune, wrote in her April 2011 article:

“Ream’s Meat Market keeps on bringing home the bacon when it comes to making Elburn a destination for Chicagoland carnivores in search of the best in meats and sausages. Ream’s recently made the list of “Best Chicagoland Places to Eat,” by the LTH Forum, a Chicago-based culinary chat site whose 9,000 members make it their business to identify small, out-of-the-way eateries and resources for all things food.”

Ream's Elburn Market (Photo Credit: Bruce's 08 Daily Photo Blog)
Ream’s Elburn Market (Photo Credit: Bruce’s 08 Daily Photo Blog)

As you enter the store you are impressed by the awards on the walls, and some cans of lard from older days.

The meats, sausages, jerkies, smoked meats, fresh meats, and other products inside the store are more than a blog article can cover.

lard_awards

A lot more!

“I like to call it the shotgun approach,” Ream explains. “When you walk in the door, you are overwhelmed by so many meat selections that you don’t know where to go first.” (Source: Upbeat in Elburn, by Steve Krut)

By necessity, I will confine myself to some representative selections, starting with sausages.

I could not resist to start with the tailgater brats with bacon and blue cheese.

Tailgate parties are a staple of US food culture and fun.

Bacon and Blue Cheese Tailgater Brats
Bacon and Blue Cheese Tailgater Brats

In addition to the US style sausages, there are a lot of European origin, like the Hungarian style sausage.

Hungarian Sausage
Hungarian Sausage

No sausage tray would be complete without a white sausage from Bavaria.

True to their calling, the Ream family produce one of the best weisswursts outside Bavaria.

We prepared them with sauerkraut and they were delicious!

Munich White Sausage
Munich White Sausage

Italy has very strong presence in the US culinary scene. Here are some Mild Italian Sausages.

Mild Italian Sausage
Mild Italian Sausage

I conclude the sausage section with another American sausage: Jalapeno and cheese.

I wish I could have tasted them all on the spot, but I couldn’t!

Jalapeno and cheese stix
Jalapeno and cheese stix

Moving on to the smoked products, I would like to start with the salmon.

I bought some and was handsomly rewarded. It was juicy, moist and with a subtle smoky flavor.

Smoked Salmon
Smoked Salmon

Bacon is next.

Dry cured bacon
Dry cured bacon

Dry cured bacon and Hungarian style.

Hungarian dry cured bacon
Hungarian dry cured bacon

The bacon was so good, I cooked it for breakfast in a “Bacon and eggplant omelette”.

Bacon and eggplant omelette
Bacon and eggplant omelette

Jerkies are one of the reasons why Ream’s Elburn Market is so famous.

Jerky is lean meat that has been trimmed of fat, cut into strips, and then dried to prevent spoilage. Normally, this drying includes the addition of salt, to prevent bacteria from developing on the meat before sufficient moisture has been removed. The word “jerky” is derived from the Spanish word charqui which is from the Quechua word ch’arki. which means to burn (meat). All that is needed to produce basic “jerky” is a low-temperature drying method, and salt to inhibit bacterial growth.”   (Source: Wikipedia).

Buffalo Jerky
Buffalo Jerky

In principle, jerky is similar to the Turkish and Middle-Eastern pastirma, although pastirma is not sliced in advance, but only before it is consumed.

California heat beef  jerky.

California heat beef jerky
California heat beef jerky

And – of course – Elburner beef jerky.

“In the competitive meats arena, Ream hasn’t excelled…he’s exceeded. He has directed Elburn Market products to grand championship awards in 15 separate product classes at the American Cured Meat Championships (ACMC), something never done by any processor. His small shop has garnered an incredible 235 awards in cured meat competition!”  ((Source: Upbeat in Elburn, by Steve Krut)

Elburner beef jerky
Elburner beef jerky

I now want to refer specifically to the cooked ham, which we bought and enjoyed on multiple occasions.

Cooked Ham
Cooked Ham

In the US the prime part of leg of pork, the ham, is sold also cooked. You do need to add anything to it, just warm it gently, slice and serve. In case of a high quality product, like the one we bought at Ream’s, you do want to taste the meat, rather than all the spices, sauses, and so on.

Sliced ham
Sliced ham

This top quality ham is moist, sweet, tender, it melts in your mouth and leaves a very subtle aftertaste.

It is time to have a look at the fresh meats on offer.

I start with my all time favourite, the T-bone steak. Look at the marbling of the meat!

T-bone beef steak
T-bone beef steak

More steaks are on offer. The rib eye comes next.

Rib eye beef steak
Rib eye beef steak

And a bone-in rib eye, thick and marbled to perfection. I perfect the bone-in because of the added flavor and the thickness of the cut.

Gourmet rib eye
Gourmet bone in rib eye

I get hungry only by looking at the beautiful display.

Boneless pot roast (beef)
Boneless pot roast (beef)

There are also some prepared “composite” meat dishes, to cook and serve.

I start with a beautiful beef roulade, or pinwheel in American English.

“The word roulade originates from the French word “rouler” meaning “to roll”  Typically, a roulade is a European dish consisting of a slice of meat rolled around a filling, such as cheese, vegetables, or other meats. A roulade, like a braised dish, is often browned then covered with wine or stock and cooked. Such a roulade is commonly secured with a toothpick, metal skewer or a piece of string. The roulade is then sliced into rounds and served.”  (Source: Wikipedia).

Popeye Pinwheel
Popeye Pinwheel

The popeye pinwheel has – of course spinach.

The classic bacon wrapped pork filet is another temptation.

Bacon wrapped pork filet
Bacon wrapped pork filet

And another pinwheel, less colorful.

Beef flank steak pinwheel
Beef flank steak pinwheel

The emperor of meat cuts. the beef tenderloin concludes this representative sample of goods in Ream’s Elburn Market.

Beef tenderloin
Beef tenderloin

But may be not. As I was approaching the cash register, I saw the absolute delicacy, smoked porks ears. But they were not meant for human consumption. the sign clearly said: “For Dogs”. May be next time I will have my dog with me.

Pig's ears for dogs
Pig’s ears for dogs

Mediterranean Kidney and Steak Pie

View of Marathon from the hills of Kalentzi
View of Marathon from the hills of Kalentzi

Today’s dish came out of a gift.

I have always liked beef kidneys and my  good butcher brought me some as a present. Apparently no one in Greece today eats beef kidneys, so the wholesale meat merchants give them away to the butchers who ask for them.

After returning home I got down to the important task of deciding what to cook with them.

Beef kidneys
Beef kidneys

I had some chuck steak and decided to make a kidney and steak pie, emphasizing the kidney and using the steak as second fiddle.

For the first time, I decided to use olives , capers and balsamico vinegar in the filling. I also decided to marinate the kidneys in red wine, and grill the steak rather than fry it. It is in this respect that this is a mediterranean version of the recipe.

Chopped marinated beef kidneys
Chopped marinated beef kidneys

I marinated the kidneys for 24 hours  in red wine, onions, rosemary salt, crushed red chilli peppers,  capers and a bit of garlic.

After the kidneys were marinated, I seared them in a hot pan and chopped them.

I grilled the chuck stek steak and chopped it.

Chopped grilled beef chuck steak
Chopped grilled beef chuck steak

I then put the marinade in a pot, added chopped carrots, more rosemary, a bit of chopped parsley and coriander,  and brought it to a robust boil that reduced the liquid to a thick paste.

Rosemary, parsley, coriander
Rosemary, parsley, coriander

I then chopped some green olives and added them to the paste, along with balsamico vinegar, and the chopped kidneys and steak. The pie filling was now ready.

Chopped green olives
Chopped green olives

While all of this was happening, the dough for the pie’s pastry was resting.

Open kidney and steak pie
Open kidney and steak pie

I use butter for the pastry, and just a pinch of baking powder. I do not use puff pastry first of all because it is too heavy and secondly because it takes too much time to make. The butter based pastry that I prepared took no more than 15 minutes. After it was prepared, I let it rest in the fridge for one hour or so.

Kidney and steak pie, ready to bake
s  Kidney and steak pie, ready to bake

After covering the pie, I bake it for 45 minutes in 200 centigrade.

Baked kidney and steak pie
Baked kidney and steak pie

I let it rest for 15 minutes and then serve it with a nice green salad and brown home made bread.

Steak kidney and steak pie - served
Steak kidney and steak pie – served

The taste was rich, spicy and the meats juicy and full of flavor. The capers, the olives and the balsamico gave the filling the acidity that is necessary to counterbalance the richness of the kidneys’ flavor.

Enjoy the dish with a robust red, preferably the one you used in the marinade.

Greek Summer Lunch: Beetroots, Tamarix, and Eggplants "au gratin" – Ελληνικο Καλοκαιρινο Μεσημεριανο Γευμα: παντζαρια, αρμυρικια, παπουτσακια μελιτζανας ω γκρατεν

Πρελουδιο

Salt Cedar (Tamarix) in Greece - Αρμυρικια εις την Ελλαδα

Εχει καλοκαιριασει για τα καλα και εν τω μεσω της τεραστιας κρισης που μαστιζει την Ελλαδα, η επιβιωση απαιτει την καλοπεραση.

Και εν προκειμενω η καλοπεραση ερχεται με την μορφη και το περιεχομενο ενος καλοκαιρινου γευματος που γεμιζει την κοιλια και αγαλλιαζει την καρδια.

“Καλα θα φαμε, καλα θα πιουμε, και νηστικοι θα κοιμηθουμε”.

Ολα αυτα ερχονται σε ενα πολυ λογικο κοστος, κι ετσι επιβεβαιωνεται το ρητο που λεει “οι μεγαλες αξιες δεν ειναι υποχρεωτικα χρηματικες”. Και ευτυχως βεβαια που εχομε και την επιβεβαιωση τετοιων ρητων, αλλεως πεως πως θα επιβιωσομεν;

Παμε λοιπον.

Το γευμα περιλαμβανει δυο πιατα βραστα, παντζαρια και αρμυρικια, και ενα πιατο στο φουρνο, μελιτζανες παπουτσακια, σε μια εκδοση που ονομαζω “σπορ”, με την εννοια οτι ειναι ελαφρυτερη εκδοση και σε βαζει πιο γρηγορα στο νοημα. Το ποιο ειναι το νοημα δεν θα το αναλυσομε εδω, γιατι δεν θα τελειωσουμε γρηγορα.

Beetroot – Παντζαρια

Ανεκαθεν μου αρεσαν τα παντζαρια.

Ασε που ειναι και υγιεινα. Ενας χυμος απο παντζαρια συνισταται γενικως… Εν προκειμενω ακολουθησα μινιμαλιστικη προσεγγγιση. Τα εβρασα, τα ξεφλουδισα, και τα εκοψα σε ροδελες. Μετα λιγο αλατι, λιγο ξυδι, και ψιλοκομμενο σκορδο. Μια ωρα χαλαρωση και σερβιρισμα με ελαιολαδο.

Η απολαυση της γευσης και της υφης ειναι απεριγραπτη. Αρχιζω απο την υφη. Το παντζαρι δεν πρεπει να ειναι διαλυμενο, βρασμενο εως αποσυνθεσεως. Αντιθετα πρεπει να “βασταει”, να διατηρει δηλαδη την υφη του και την λεβεντια του. Τα λεβεντικα παντζαρια ειναι και τα καλυτερα. Καθως θρυμματιζεται η σαρκα του παντζαριου, αναδυονται τα αρωματα απο το σκορδο και το ξυδι, που δενουνε με το ελαιολαδο και ερχεται απο πανω, σαν σε θρονο, η γλυκυτητα του παντζαριου, που ομως ειναι μετριασμενη απο ολα τα αλλα και ετσι καλοδεχτη και εξισορροπουσα τα οξινα. Θελω κι αλλο!

Salt Cedar (Tamarix) – Αρμυρικια

Salt Cedar or tamarix or tamarisk is a plant that grows near the sea in Greece, but it can be found all around the Mediterranean.

Τα αρμυρικια καλλιεργουνται σημερα στην Ατικη, αλλα παρολα αυτα ειναι εξαιρετικα ευγευστα. Πρεπει βεβαια να τα βρασεις σωστα, προκειμενου να διατηρησουν και το χρωμα τους, το βαθυ πρασινο, αλλα και την υφη, που ειναι και ενα απο τα μεγαλα τους προσοντα. Τα αρμυρικια δεν θελουν καθαρισμα. Λιγο κοψιμο θελει το κοτσνι, αλλα οχι πολυ. Τα καλα αρμυρικια εχουν τρυφερωτατο κοτσανι. Μετα το βρασιμο αναπαυση, και σερβιρισμα με λιγο λαδι, λιγο αλατι και λεμονι.

Η απολαυση στο αρμυρικι ειναι και συνδυασμος υφης και διακριτικης γευσης. Και παλι υπερκρισιμο ειναι το βρασιμο. Με το σωστο βρασιμο, το αρμυρικι γινεται τρυφερο αλλα δεν διαλυεται, οποτε με το που το μασας αισθανεσαι εκατομμυρια μικρες εκρηξεις να επιτελουνται, μια και τα τρυγερωτατα φυλλα που ειναι σαν ακιδες θρυμματιζονται  εκτοξευοντας χυμους και τα διακριτικα αρωματα του αρμυρικιου. Ο συνδυασμος με το ελαιολαδο και το λεμονι ειναι εξαιρετικος, αλλα θελει πολυ προσοχη για να μην καλυφθει η λεπτη και διακριτικη γευση του.

Μελιτζανες παπουτσακια σπορ

Τα παπουτσακια ειναι απο τα αγαπημενα μου πιατα. Σημερα σερβιρω την εκδοση “σπορ”, που σημαινει οτι δεν εχω μπεσαμελ αλλα μονο μιγμα τυριων. Ειμαι δηλαδη κοντα σε μια εκδοση “ω γκρατεν”.

Αρχικα κοβω τις φλασκες σε δυο συμμετρικα μισα, και τα σκλαιζω με ενα μαχαιρι, για να δημιουργηθει μια κοιλοτητα. Ολη την ψυχα την βαζω με κρεμμυδια στο τηγανι για να μαραθει, ενω τα μισα μπαινουν στο γκριλ για να μαλακωσουν, χωρις να ψηθουν εντελως. Στα μισα δεν βαζω τιποτε.

Αφου μαραθουν τα κρεμμυδια και οι ψυχες προσθετω μισο – μισο χοιρινο και μοσχαρισιο κιμα και αφηνω να φυγουν τα πολλα υγρα.

Συνεχιζω προσθετοντας μικρα τοματακια ολοκληρα απο κονσερβα ΚΥΚΝΟΣ, που ειναι η αγαπημενη και αξιοπιστη μαρκα σε προιοντα τοματας.

Μολις φυγουν τα πολλα ζουμακια και τα ντοματακια αρχισουν να διαλυονται, στρωνω το μιγμα στα μισα της μελιτζανας, που εχουν μαλακωσει χωρις να ψηθουν ολοτελα.

Τελειωνω με την επιστρωση απο τριμμενο τυρι. Εν προκειμενω εχω εμενταλ και γραβιερα.

Ολοταχως στον πολυ καυτο φουρνο των 250 βαθμων Κελσιου, και ψησιμο 20 λεπτα για να λοιωσουν τα τυρια και να ενσωματωθουν τα υγρα με την μελιτζανα.

Σερβιρω με ψιλοκομμενο κολιανδρο και βασιλικο.

Το οξινο της ντοματας δενει με την γλυκυτητα των τυριων και αγκαλιαζουν τον κυμα που ειναι γευστικος και ολιγον καυετερος (αν θελετε βαζετε λιγο καυτερη πιπερια η μπουκοβο). Η διακριτικη παρουσια της μελιτζανας ολοκληρωνει τη γευστικη αρμονια.

Καλη ορεξη και ας παει και το παληαμπελο!

Beef Guvec with pasta – Μοσχαρι Γιουβετσι με κοφτο μακαρονακι

Today I share with you a recipe for beef guvec with pasta. Guvec is a generic term of Turkish origin, meaning a stew cooked in an earthenware pot.

The word guvec (güveç) is derived from an Altaic word for a clay cooking vessel. From Turkey it has spread throughout the region, with slight variations on the name. In the Balkans it is djuvec, in Romania it is known as ghiveci, while in Cyprus it is called yiouvetsi.

This hearty dish can be made in any type of oven-proof pan, but clay or earthenware pots are preferred because they impart a heady, earthy aroma to the stew. To make the pots, straw, hay, sawdust, wood ash, sand and water are added to the clay. It is then kneaded until there are no air bubbles left in it. Then it is shaped by hand or on a potter’s wheel and left to partially dry. While still partially wet, it is scraped to smooth the pores of the pot, thus ensuring that it is impermeable. It is covered and left to dry completely, then glazed and fired in a kiln.

I used the pot that was given to me by Marion, Manolis’s wife. It is a “terrine”, made in Alsace.

I have photographed it top – down, so that you can see the beautiful lid covering the pot, and also the fact that when I bake I use aluminum foil to block as much steam as possible.  And I do this becasue the secret to preparing güveç is the slow cooking in the closed pot, which brings out the flavors of all the ingredients.

Guvec in Greece is usually made with red meat, although sometimes people also use chicken.

In today’s dish I use osso bucco, i.e. the shank, with the bone, that gives it super flavor.

First I brown the meat, colour is flavor!!! I use olive oil, but you can also use butter.

After browning, I put the meat with the bones in the pot. I bake for 2 hours in 200 degrees centigrade.  If the meat is a thicker cur, you have to leave it for more time.

After this first stage of cooking, I add tomatoes to the pot and a bit of tomato paste, and the pasta. Please note that there must be enough liquid in the pot so that the pasta cooks, without becoming like mush.

There are two types of pasta used in the Greek dish. One is with pine kernel like pasta, called “kritharaki” in Greek. The other is short hollow pasta, called “kofto” in Greek. In the version  I present today, I used “kofto”.

Today I used the “brown” pasta made by Misko. I highly recommend this to the Greek readers, it is much tastier than the white stuff.  Once the pasta is added, cover and return to the oven for another 35 minutes.

Do not hesitate, take it out of the oven, and serve it steaming hot.

Enjoy it with a nice glass of a full-bodied red wine, like “ksinomavro”, from the North og Greece.

Beef Kidneys with porcini mushrooms, and red cabbage and cauliflower puree

This is the result of falling half asleep on the morning flight to Athens and then rushing to the hypermarket to get some basics for the weekend. When I stumbled upon the beef kidneys I knew what I was going to cook. It is one of my favorite materials, both in flavor and in texture, but it is hard to find.

The first step is to marinate the kidneys. I use vinegar, sweet wine, chili pepper flakes, coriander seeds, oregano, coarse sea salt and black pepper. I cover with bay leaves and leave it to rest for one hour or so.

A nice cauliflower and some red cabbage lead me to the second step. I slice the cabbage and simmer it in a bit of olive oil in a deep pan. I add the cauliflower cut in small bunches.

I add fresh coriander and parsley, some coarse sea salt and black pepper, cover and let cook without any water, until it becomes very soft. Remember, all this is going to make the puree that will provide the soft and comforting company ot the wild, demanding kidneys and sudjuk. Not an easy task at all!

When the cabbage is soft, put everything in the mixer and prepare a nice thick mix. I add two eggs and a bit of flower to thicken it up, then serve in the shallow container, and bake for 15 minutes in high heat, to let the excess liquid evaporate and condense the flavor.

I take out of the oven and let it rest for 10 minutes.

In the meantime, the kidneys have been sliced and are simmering in the pan with the porcini and some of their marinade.

The last step is to slice and gently fry the sudjuk.

I got this Armenian sudjuk which turned out to be very good.

Be careful not to slice it very thin, as it will go dry very easily.

I serve on a large dish with a green salad on the side.

If you open a bottle of chianti wine you will be very happy with this dish!  Although any red with a good body will do the job! But take my word, do not eat this dish without a full-bodied red wine!

Bone appetite!

Meat balls with lentils and potato patty

Today I wanted to eat lentils in a different way, and I decided to marry them with meat balls and a shredded potato patty. This is the story.

I got two nice pieces of beef from the chest. The bones I used to make the broth for the lentils, and the meat for the meat balls.

Grinding the meat yourself is a great pleasure and makes a big difference in the end result, So I assembled my little meat grinder and got to work.

The quality of this ground meat is beyond description! The meat is full of flavor and tender!

In the meantime, the lentils were boiling mildly, in the stock of the bones.

Th lentils are not visible yet, but you get the picture. A note of importance here, the lentils will not be served as a soup, but as stew, which means that the liquid in the lentils will be at a minimum.

In parallel, shred the potatoes and drain them well. Mix with dill, parsley, coriander, egg and a bit of flour, to absord the remaining liquid. Season moderately with salt and pepper, cover and refrigerate for one hour.

The mix for the meatballs is quite simple. Add chopped garlic and hot peppers, mint, bread crumbs, a bit of olive oil, egg, salt and pepper to the meet, mix well cover and refrigerate for at least one hour.

Shape the balls, cover them with flour, and let it stick for about five minutes before frying them .

The potato patties are easy to fry, use medium heat and be patient, they need about 5 minutes, and require to be turned many times.

Serve the lentils in a deep dish, place a potato patty in the middle, and two meatballs on top.

This is a dish of varied flavors and textures. The lentils are soft, melt in the mouth, the meatballs are medium soft to crunchy, and the patty is on the very crunchy end of the spectrum. The meatballs steal the show in the texture, but the lentils and the patty are strong competitors in the flavor zone.

Enjoy it!

Cannelloni with beef and parmesan

In rather damp and chilly weather conditions, you need warm and rich dishes to support you. One of them is cannelloni with beef and parmesan. Cannelloni are time consuming to fill, but the reward for the patient cook is the splendid combination of the filling with the pasta shell, which is a quite different experience from eating pasta.

I do not use ground meat when I can, as I do not like the texture. Instead, I prepare a rich ragu and then break it into threads. The best cust is the short plate.

I separate the meat from the bones, and cook in a big pot with carrots, onions and peppers.

After three hours, I take off the heat and let it cool off. Once it is cool, I cut it in chunks and then break the chunks in threads.

I place the meat in a shallow pot and then add the boiled mashed vegetables, a bit of tomato paste and olive oil to season, and leave to simmer for 30 minutes in medium heat.

We are now ready to fill the cannelloni.

On top I prefer to put a rich tomato sauce, with all the juices of the meat, and grated parmesan.

Place in a very hot oven for 15 minutes and you have a wonderful meal.

With this dish you need a red wine with body. Enjoy it!

Restaurant Guth, Lauterach, Bregenz, Austria

“Lets go  and have a nice meal, this is no weather for being outdoors”, said Manolis, when the snow started accumulating on the ground and the visibility was reduced to less than 50 meters. You have seen the pictures in the “white” post, now its time to get down to the eating and drinking business.

Restaurant Guth was around the corner, at the outskirts of Bregenz by lake Constance in the Austrian – German borders. In the map below, you can see Bregenz in the lowest right side of the lake.

Chef Thomas Scheucher is one of the most creative Austrian chefs and has created a modern environment to serve his creations.

The building is new, and the outside is austere in style. The inside is warm and with a beautiful garden view.

The chef’s menu was our choice, but Manolis asked for a swap. Instead of the soup, he asked for the tripe. Such a request would not be honoured in France, where you would be asked to order it as extra. Not in friendly, hospitable Austria, where the request was accepted with a smile.

The amuse bouche was a slice of foie with brioche and quince and pear marmalade, accompanied by scallop’s and musel’s hot beverage. Exquisite and multilayered in taste and flavours, this was one of the best amuse I have ever tasted! The philosppher of Atelier will offer his own views while he comments on the post, so I will not try to interpet him, which would in any case be sacrilegious!

Marinated tuna with horseradish mousse, accompanied by a pike croquette served on cubes of beetroot. The tuna was soft and sweet, the horseradish perfectly accompanied the oily flesh, while the croquette was like solid foam (a contradiction of terms and senses).

Sauteed tripe with herbs of the nearby forest. Never had this dish before, and it was worth the wait of so many years! A complete game with the senses this one, thin threads of tripe enveloped in the aromas of the forest, melt in the mouth and bless it with eternal memories of gastronomic pleasures.

Zander fillet with octopus, on a bed of fresh green beans. The dish of extreme lightness, attempted to supplement the memory of the mighty tripe with a presence of indelible subtlety and kindness to the palate.

Free-range beef fillet with mushrooms, celery and semolina crack dumplings (knoedel). The ultimate in meaty texture and taste, medium to rare, the knife was practically not needed to cut through this velvety flesh!

Hot chocolate desert, with fried bananas and bitter sweet foam. The perfect conclusion to a perfect meal. It took the chef almost 20 minutes to prepare the cylinders of delight, and was well worth it!

In the basement, you can find another source of pleasures, the wine cellar. We were served excellent austrian wines to accompany the dishes. More on austrian wines will come in a future post, they are the big discovery of the year for me!

Conclusion: When you get a chance, visit Guth, you will thank me for that!

P.S. For the culturally oriented, there is fantastic Opera Festival during the summer in Bregenz. Just imagine the immense combination of a beautiful opera performance accompanied by a meal in Restaurant Guth…..

P.S.2 Thank you Manoli for opening guth’s door for me!

P.S.3 Thank you Nature, for creating the unique Christmas images on the last day of November in the year of 2009.

P.S4 Thank you Romania, for having your National Day on the 1st December, which gave me the opportunity to visit Manolis and Guth and…

P.S5 At the time of the visit, the restaurant was recommended by the Michelin Red Guide as “one star”.

Beef and Pork Stew with dry white beans

Today’s  dish is a stew with dry white beans.

The meat in the stew is beef and pork. pork

I dice the meat and brown it with olive oil.

pork_beef_sauteedIn the same pan I then put sliced green peppers, onions, parsley and celery.

peppersI put the peppers alone at first, and then add the other ingredients.

peppers_onions_celery_parslWhile all of this is taking place, dry white beans from the northern city of Drama are boiling in water.

white_beansWhen the peppers, and onions are soft, I add the meat and half a bottle of good red wine, some slat, pepper and cover the pot. The meat must now cook in medium to low heat for at least one hour.

meat_readyWhile the meat is slowly cooking, I put half of the beans in a mixer and puree them. I spread  them in a baking tray with olive oil.

pureeOn top I add the rest of the beans, and spread them evenly. I add a lot of juice from the stew and bake for one hour in 200 degrees centigrade. To avoid dehydration of the beans, in the first thirty minutes cover the tray with aluminum foil.

beans_readyTo serve, cut a rectangle of the beans and serve the meat next to it.

servedWhat I really like about the dish is the combination of textures in the beans, accompanied by the aromas of the meat stew. IMG_1871

The particular beans I used in the dish are strong in flavor, almost to the point of the bean paste tasting like chestnuts! IMG_1870To accompany the dish, as a matter of fact to announce it, I prepared zucchini rolls with pastirma. Easy peasyFry sliced zucchini in olive oil and dry in kitchen paper.

zucchiniSlice pastirma very thinly. To avoid overpowering the zucchini with the pastirma, cut the slices very thin and short.

pastirmaTake a zucchini slice, add some pastirma, about one third of its length should be covered by the pastirma slice, roll it up and let it rest on the serving dish.

appetizerThese little bites are dynamite! I was quite surprised by the harmonious collaboration of the gentle soft and almost unspoken zucchini with the explosive pastirma!

And do not forget a good red wine to accompany the dish, I would recommend a Xinomavro from Northern Greece.

Salve!

Pizza with minced beef and estragon – Πιτσα με μοσχαρισιο κιμα και εστραγκον

Τωρα που ερχονται οι γιορτες και τοσοι και τοσοι φιλοι και γνωστοι θα παρελασουν απο τα σπιτια, ειναι καλο να εχουμε ευκολες αλλα γευστικες λυσεις για να τους φιλεψουμε χωρις αναγκαστικα να καθομαστε στο τραπεζι για πληρες γευμα.

Εχω λοιπον σημερα να σας προτεινω μια γευστικωτατη πιτσα με κιμα και εστραγκον που ειναι οτι πρεπει για τα κρυα υγρα βραδια και γινεται πανευκολα.

Αρχικα φτιαχνω τη ζυμη, που ειναι με ασπρο αλευρι, χλιαρο νερο, λιγη μαγια αραιωμενη σε χλιαρο διαλυμα νερου και ξυδιου, λιγο αλατι, και λιγο γαλα. Η ζυμη αυτη ειναι αφρατη και την προτιμω απο την πολυ λεπτη και τραγανη. Επισης ταιριαζει πολυ με τον κιμα, που εχει πλουσια γευση και χρειαζεται μια ηπια αντικρουση που ομως να εχει μαζα, να μην ειναι μια κρουστα.

Αφρατη ζυμη
Αφρατη ζυμη

Αφου ζυμωσω καλα αφηνω την ζυμη να ηρεμησει και να ομογενοποιηθει, για να μην πω οτι φουσκωνει κιολας (οχι πολυ, λιγο μονο!).

Στο μεταξυ, και καθως η ζυμη ξεκουραζεται, ετοιμαζω την βαση για την πιτσα, που ειναι ενα μιγμα απο πρασινα κρεμμυδακια, σκορδα, και ντοματα. Τσιγαριζω απαλα σε αφθονο ελαιολαδο και το αφηνω και αυτο να κρυωσει.

Η σαλτσα
Η σαλτσα

Επομενο βημα ο κιμας, που εδω πρεπει να ειναι μοσχαρισιος και αυτο που λεμε “τριανταφυλλο”, δηλαδη απο μικρο ζωο.  Τσιγαριζω και προσθετω ντοματα και εστραγκον. Προσεχω να ειναι ζουμερο το μιγμα, γιατι θα δεσει καλυτερα με την σαλτσα και θα αφησει και περισσοτερη γευση.

Ζουμερος αχνιστος μυρωδατος κιμας
Ζουμερος αχνιστος μυρωδατος κιμας

Αφου απλωσω την ζυμη στο ταψι, επαλειφω με την σαλτσα.

Η ζυμη με τη σαλτσα
Η ζυμη με τη σαλτσα

Απλωνω τον κιμα και ετοιμαζω για φουρνισμα στους 200 βαθμους για 30 λεπτα.

Ετοιμη για φουρνισμα
Ετοιμη για φουρνισμα

Αφηνω να κρυωσει για 15 λεπτα και σερβιρω.

Προσοχη!!!! Αντισταθειτε στον πειρασμο να βαλετε τυρι!

Αφηστε τον εαυτο σας ελευθερο να γευθει το κρεας και τα μυρωδικα, ιδιαιτερα το εστραγκον, χωρις τη λιπαροτητα του τυριου. Η οξυτητα της ντοματας αντιπαλευει την ενταση της κρεατικης γευσης και την συμπληρωνει υπεροχα. Ο συνδυασμος ειναι λιτος σε σχεση με τα πιατα που εχουν κρεας και δεκατεσσερα τυρια, αλλα αξιζει τον κοπο να δειτε και την λιτη αλλα και πιο αμεση και απολαυστικη εκδοχη.

Ετοιμη για βρωση
Ετοιμη για βρωση

Προτεινω ολοψυχως και παστουρμαδακι στο πλαι για παραλληλο παιχνιδι με εμφαση στην εναλλαγη “σκληρο – μαλακο”. Το συγκεκριμενο της φωτο ηρθε απο το Αζερμπαιζαν πεσκεσι και ειναι μουρλια.

Παστουρμαδακι φινο
Παστουρμαδακι φινο

Και το ουζο, και η μπυρα, αλλα και το κοκκινο κρασι μπορει να συνοδεψει αυτο το προχειρο αλλα γευστικο συνολακι.