Bistecca Fiorentina: every encounter is a mystical experience

One dish, one and only, a treat elevating the humans to heaven!

From Dario Cecchini’s macelleria in Panzano, Toscana.

A wonderful cut that came all the way to Athens.

Marbled to perfection.

Grilled on hot charcoals.

Until golden brown and crisp.Served on the carving board. The potatoes were the only accompanying food, just like a shock absorber, so that the senses do not get totally deranged.

Sliced to the very end of the very bone.

Juicy and pink divinity, real meat not to be forgotten until the next time.

Lunch 26th December 2009 – Toscana meets Thessaly

On the 26th December is the name day of my “brother”, Manolis. We have made it a tradition that every year we get together in my house and celebrate his name day having lunch. The same happened yesterday, and I happy to report the proceedings of this event.

As you may remember, I already had a go at the menu a couple of weeks ago, but as it usually happens, things changed. The ever moving fate brought two regions of the Mediterranean together on the menu. Thessaly of Greece and Toscana of Italy contributed their best products. Spleen sausage (splinantero) from Trikala and Bistecca Fiorentina from Panzano, Toscana.

Lets start from the appetizer, which is like a greeting card of the two regions in an envelope.

Hard salty goat’s cheese (kefalotiri) from Trikala and pancetta from Toscana, join forces in the greeting card.

Place one slice of cheese on top of a phillo pastry sheet, then a slice of pancetta, then tomato and parsley and wrap as an envelope. Bake and serve steaming hot.

This envelope was well received by all participants, who more or less gulped it down in a frenetic mode. This was largely due to the fact that the cheese had melted, it was thoroughly covered by the liquid fat of the pancetta, and engaged in constant dialogue with the acidity of the tomato and the strong sweet flavoor of the parsley. Hard to resist!

Next in line was the spleen sausage, the “splinantero” (σπληναντερο), prepared by a shepherd in a village near Trikala, in the region of Thessaly. This is forbidden food, according to the European Union. This is sausage made from the spleen and heart of muton, wrapped in the “suet” fat (μπολια). For the Greek speaking visitors, I have created an entry in wikictionary on splinantero (the spleen sausage).

I grilled it on charcoal fire and the result was divine! The honest beauty and quality of the ingredients shone through the grilled melting cover. Every dialog seized. Only moans could be heard.

Then it was time to greet the Tuscan beauty, La Bistecca Fiorentina! Especially prepared by my friend Dario Cecchini in Panzano, Chianti. I grilled la bistecca over charcoal, as the spleen sausage.

In Greece a lot of people eat meat well done, and so my task was a difficult one, as I personally detest well done meat. In any case, it all worked well and everyone was happy! Manolis more than anyone else, as he devoured the bone!

The bistecca was out of this world! Tender, juicy, full of flavors, it was literally melting in the mouth! Grazie Dario!

Every good meal must end with a good desert, may be more than good, to lighten the hearts and the stomachs of the participants. In this case, I made a kiwi tart on the basis of a recipe by Thomas Keller (Bouchon).

I am proud to report that not even a flake of the pastry was left! Needless to say, this lunch also demolished the alleged divorce that I have taken from sweets. (Manolis could make a comment here!).

A short note on the wines, all of which came from Toscana. We started with Morellino di Scansano Riserva 2000, from Val delle Rose (92 out of 100 in the Wine Spectator). Continued with Alte d’ Altesi 2000 from Altesino (93 out of 100 in the Wine Spectator). For the desert we had Castello di Brolio Vinsanto del Chianti 2004, from Barone Ricasoli.

Officina della Bistecca – Dario Cecchini’s meat feast

As I promised, I continue with the meat feast that Dario Cecchini offers to his guests in his one year old “Officina della Bistecca”. The evening I visited Officina, Dario had to go to an event and therefore I had the opportunity to see the place without its master.

Officina is right above the butcher shop, and during a hot August night it offers the guests everything al fresco!

grill

The setting is very simple, there is no fancy stuff in Officina, two large tables where the guests mix and a huge grill where the drama and ecstasy of the night is played.

The menu of the feast starts with ground beef that has been jst caressed by heat, and is practically raw. It is served with rosemary, lemon and olive oil and delicious! It is sweet, very tender and leaves a very subtle aftertaste in your mouth.

Το πρωτο πιατο ειναι μοσχαρισιος κιμας, ισα ισα περασμενος απο το τηγανι, μια ανασα μονο! Στην φωτογραφια το βλεπετε με σελινο, που παει θαυμασια, μαζι με φλουδα λεμονιου και λαδακι της εληας. Γλυκισμα και αξεχαστο!

sushi2The green stuff that you see in the photo is celery, which goes really well with the meat.

Moving away from the introductory dish, we face a slab of wood on which the protagonists of the night rest. The costata, the panczanese and – of course! – the fiorentina!

platterThe costata is a  thick rib eye cut, and in the photo it is presented by Dante, the Master of Ceremonies in the Officina. .

Η κοστατα ειναι μοσχαρισια μπριτζολα, κομμενη χοντρη για να ειναι ζουμερη και με μπολικες ουσιες οταν σερβιριστει.

costata0The costata is first grilled flat and then on its side. Observe the marbled flesh!

costata1Once these wonderful cuts are ready, Angelo, the Chief of the Grill Station slices them for the guests.

angelo The costata was sweet, juicy, tender and without dripping blood, although it was cooked medium rare. The reason behind is tha t the meat in Tuscany is aged properly, about 6 days, so there is no blood or water in the flesh when it is cooked, but the absolute minimum.

costata2

We continued with the panzanese, a cut from the rump, that Dario grills and served also medium rare.

Συνεχιζουμε με την πανζανεζε, που ειναι μια εφευρεση του Νταριο, οσον αφορα το ψησιμο στα καρβουνα. Το κρεας ειναι αυτο που λεμε εμεις στρογγυλο. Και ο Νταριο το σερβιρει και αυτο ψημενο στα καρβουνα!

panzaneseObserve that the meat is lean here, no marbles!

panzanese1But is is juicy and full of flavours, although of course is not as tender as the costata!

And now the time has come for the Bistecca Fiorentina, the ultimate treat of the night.

marblesJust see how marbled the cut is! And how thick!

Η φιορεντινα ειναι ενα μια μπριτζολα κοντρα, οι αμερικανοι τη λενε τι μποουν, επειδη το κοκκαλο της ειναι σατ ενα μεγαλο ταυ.

platter2Angelo does a fantastic job and grills the Bistecca to perfection.

bisteca2The fiorentina is finished by grilling it on its side, and as you see it stands on its side quite comfortably!

bisteca3It was worth the wait! After almost 2 and a half hours the queen arived and she was in top form! Needless to say, you must eat everything! Including the fat bits, which are the best in my humble opinion!

Be aware! No salt, no peper or anything else is added to the meat after it is served. This is the secret of enjoying the real taste, texture and flavour of the meat. Another small secret for the enjoyment of the whole experience is to avoid eating bread and the baked potato that comes with the meat. They both fill you up when this is the last thing you want. Stick on the meat and the raw vegetables!

The feast lasted for approaximately four hours. Dario in his “menu” card says three hours, but this is on the low side. In any case, this type of extravagant eating requires time and very good company, and Dario’s guests are usually a very good company indeed!

There is not much else to say, but thank you to the team that put this all together: Marina, who inside the kitchen prepared everything to perfection, Angelo, the grill supreme master, Dante, the animator of the party, and Dario, and Kim who put everything together!

peopleGrazie e buonanote!