Vine leafs stuffed with minced beef, served on a bed of spicy yogourt and sprinkled with chopped pastirma – Αμπελοφυλλα γεμιστα με βοδινο κυμα, σερβιρισμενα με καυτερο γιαουρτι και παστουρμα

Vines outside my door
Vines outside my door

Today’s dish is a variance of a classic: vine leafs stuffed with minced beef.

Before I proceed with the dish, there are some clarifications required on the words used to name the dish.

Literally speaking, the vine leafs are not “stuffed”. They are “wrapped”.

Vine leafs - detail
Vine leafs – detail

The Turkish word for stuffed is “dolma”. We find the same word in Persia. In Arabic though, stuffed is “mahshi”. The relevant word in Armenian is “tolma”.

The Turkish word for wrapped is “sarma”.

And the Turkish word for leaf is “yaprak”. The same word is used in Persia and Albania.

In Greek we use all three words: ντολμαδες (dolma) σαρμαδακια (sarma), γιαπρακια (yaprak).

Minced beef, parsley and coriander
Minced beef, lemon zest, parsley and coriander

Having somehow sorted out the vocabulary, lets turn to the cooking.

I blanche the vine leafs, 5 seconds each, and let them rest without placing them in a cold bath. 

I like the stuffing to be minced beef with parsley, coriander, lemon zest, sauteed chopped onions and a handful of bulgur wheat.

I do not like to add rice to the stuffing.

Stuffing
Stuffing

I sautee the onions but not brown them, let them rest, drain them, and then add them to the minced meat mix.

Ater the stuffing has rested for about 30 minutes in the fridge, I wrap the vine leafs and place them over medium heat, adding a moderate amount of the onion liquids.

pastirma

While the “yaprak” are cooking slowly, I take thin slices of tender beef pastirma, remove the paste covering it (cemen),  and chop them.

in-the-pot---detail
Stuffed vine leafs

The paste is the best ingredient to spice up the fresh yogourt that will accompany the “yaprak”.

After 45 minutes the “yaprak” are ready.

I remove from the heat and let them rest for 30 minutes.

Stuffed vine leafs with spicy yogourt and chopped pastirma
Stuffed vine leafs with spicy yogourt and chopped pastirma

I serve the “yaprak” on a bed of the spicy yogourt, and sprinkle over them the chopped pastirma.

A medium bodied red is the best wine to accompany this dish. Enjoy it.

When friendship ages like good red wine – A lunch in Marathon with three dear friends

Human relationships are diverse. But they can age like good red wine. This is what was circling in my mind the other day, after three dear internet friends had left Marathon.

We spent some wonderful time together, meeting in person for the first time after some four years of internet-relating.

The three friends are in alphabetical order: “J”, a writer and journalist. “K”, a professional in a vitally important industry. “N”, an engineer in one of the most important sectors of the economy.

“J” is Greek, but lives abroad. The fact that she was in Athens gave us the opportunity to meet! Unusually, she brought with her a book written by another author, because she liked it and as she said “I do not like to give my books”.

We started with an incredible appetizer: “K” created miniature “dolma” (stuffed parcels) with vineleafs, accompanied by a light but tasty sauce.

This is not a dish, it is a handcrafted artifact.

The miniature size ensures that this is not suitable for the “stuff your mouth” enthusiasts. It requires contemplation, careful observation of the physical object, prior to its consumption.

While caressing it in the mouth, it unleashes steadily and slowly the wonderful but restrained flavours of the vineleafs and the minced meat with rice stuffing.

Although I liked the sauce, I preferred to enjoy the “dolma” as a parcel of restrained joy and beauty.

“K” surprised me I must confess, because she is a very successful professional with a full schedule and a wonderful family. I never doubted the cooking talent, but the fact that she invested so much time in preparing the dish, is something I will never forget.

My fishmonger gave me some relatives of the red mullet, called “koutsomoura” in Greek. They were tiny, and straight out of the sea.

Before cooking them, I placed them in a water solution of coarse sea salt for one hour.

I fried and served them whole, without gutting them. No lemon, no salt.

I confess that I ate the whole thing, bones and the rest. Incredible sensation.

A cocktail of the flavours of the sea.

Para-singing Sinead: “Nofish compares to you”

My butcher supplied me with two legs of lamb, weighing three kilos in total.

I rubbed some coarse sea salt over the flesh, stuffed it with rosemary and two chilly peppers and roasted it in the oven.

The meat was lean and tasty, with firm texture, but not tough. I noted something rare for a lamb, there was no “greasy” aftertaste.

It was accompanied by stuffed aubergines baked in the oven, a variation of the “Imam Bayildi” recipe.

Sweet, tasty, but restrained, the aubergine developed a taste that lasted long and accompanied in an ideal way the robustness of the lamb’s flesh.

What a pair!!!

With the “dolma” and the fish we enjoyed a bottle of Torricella 2008 by Barone Ricasoli. A mighty chardonnay of 14 degrees, with a kick that can counter even red meat, exhibited amazing smoothness.

Wwith the meat and the aubergines, a Catalan red from Priorat, Embruix 2003 by Vall Llach, a Grenache blend, gave a memorable boost to the taste of the food, and helped me maintain the memory of it.

The concluding part was the sweet part, that started with sour yogurt made of lamb’s milk served with caramelized figs (with their skin).

A treat from the island of Andros, small pastries made with almond paste. gave a more firm texture to the sweet part.

We concluded with sweet custard pie, called “galaktompoureko” in Greek, a treat kindly brought to the team by “N”.

The intense pleasures of the food and drink were marvelously enveloped by the smoke emanating from Upmann puritos.

“N” was also the one the steal the show at the end, when she gave to each one of us a gift to remember our meeting.

Thank you “J’, “K’, “N’, until the next time…