The ruins of Greece – Τα ερείπια (χαλάσματα) της Ελλάδος

“Only ruins remain and the beauty of the natural environment.” Lord Byron

Amfissa Castle, Greece
Amfissa Castle, Greece

ΧΑΛΑΣΜΑΤΑ

Γύρισα στα ξανθά παιδιάτικα λημέρια,
γύρισα στο λευκό της νιότης μονοπάτι,
γύρισα για να ιδώ το θαυμαστό παλάτι,
για με χτισμένο απ’ τών Ερώτων τ’ άγια χέρια.
Το μονοπάτι το ‘πνιξαν οι αρκουδοβάτοι,
και τα λημέρια τα ‘καψαν τα μεσημέρια,
κ’ ένας σεισμός το ‘ρριξε κάτου το παλάτι,
και μέσ’ στα ερείπια τώρα και στ’ αποκαΐδια
απομένω παράλυτος· σαύρες και φίδια
μαζί μου αδερφοζούν οι λύπες και τα μίση·
και το παλάτι ένας σεισμός το ‘χει γκρεμίσει.

ΚΩΣΤΗΣ ΠΑΛΑΜΑΣ

Ασάλευτη ζωή, 1904
‘Απαντα, τομ. Γ´, σελ. 72

Amfissa Castle, Greece
Amfissa Castle, Greece

RUINS

I RETURNED TO MY GOLDEN PLAYGROUNDS,
I RETURNED TO MY WHITE BOYHOOD TRAIL,
I RETURNED TO SEE THE WONDROUS PALACE,
BUILT JUST FOR ME BY LOVE’S DIVINE WAYS.
BLACKBERRY BUSHES NOW COVER THE BOYHOOD TRAIL,
AND THE MIDAY SUNS HAVE BURNED THE PLAYGROUNDS,
AND A TREMOR HAS DESTROYED MY PALACE SO RARE,
AND IN THE MIDST OF FALLEN WALLS AND BURNED
TIMBERS, I REMAIN LIFELESS; LIZARDS AND SNAKES
WITH ME NOW LIVE THE SORROWS AND THE HATES;
AND OF MY PALACE A BROKEN MASS NOW REMAINS

Costis Palamas
Translated by A. Moskios

 

Amfissa Castle, Greece
Amfissa Castle, Greece

INTERVIEWER
On the question of the Greek poet’s relation to his tradition, it has always seemed to me that the Greek poet has an advantage over his Anglo-Saxon counterpart who makes use of Greek mythology and sometimes even of Greek landscape. I remember years ago when I was writing a thesis on what I thought were English influences in the poetry of Cavafy and Seferis, I asked you about certain images that crop up in your landscape, for example, the symbolic meaning of the statues that appear in your work. You turned to me and said: “But those are real statues. They existed in a landscape I had seen.” What I think you were saying is that you always start with the fact of a living, actual setting and move from there to any universal meaning that might be contained in it.

SEFERIS
An illustration of that from someone who is a specialist in classical statues came the other day from an English scholar who was lecturing about the statuary of the Parthenon. I went up to congratulate him after his lecture, and he said to me, as I remember: “But you have a line which expresses something of what I meant when you say ‘the statues are not the ruins—we are the ruins.’” I mean I was astonished that a scholar of his caliber was using a line from me to illustrate a point.

George Seferis
The statues are not the ruins—we are the ruins

From an Interview to “The Paris Review”, 2005 (epopteia)

Amfissa Castle, Greece
Amfissa Castle, Greece

 

“Unless we can relate it to ourselves personally, history will always be more or less an abstraction and its content the clash of impersonal forces and ideas. Although generalizations are necessary to order this vast, chaotic material, they kill the individual detail that tends to stray from the schema. . . . Afterwards all that remains of entire centuries is a kind of popular digest.”

Czesław Miłosz, Native Realm

 

Amfissa Castle, Greece
Amfissa Castle, Greece

Ruins come out of ruins. The story of the Acropolis is a good example. The original temple of Athena has been destroyed at least nine times in its two-and-a-half-thousand-year history. Burned by Heruli barbarians in ad 267, it was restored by Julian in ad 360, and then in 438 Christian priests hacked away at the nude sculptures and crowned the temple with a cross. The Ottoman Turks in 1456 replaced the cross with a minaret. There are still-bitter feelings about the damage done by the Venetians in 1687 when they bombed the Parthenon on September 26 under Francesco Morosini. Then there was also the sale of seventy-five sculptures by the Ottomans to Lord Elgin, the British ambassador to Greece, in 1802.

Adrianne Kalfopoulou, Ruin

 

Amfissa Castle, Greece
Amfissa Castle, Greece

You said: “…Wherever I turn, wherever I happen to look,
I see the black ruins of my life, here,
where I’ve spent so many years, wasted them, destroyed them totally.”
The City

C.P. Cavafy

Translated by Edmund Keeley/Philip Sherrard

 

Vive le terroir! Family reunion dinner in Marathon, Greece

Terroir is a concept almost untranslatable, combining soil, weather, region and notions of authenticity, of genuineness and particularity — of roots, and home — in contrast to globalized products designed to taste the same everywhere. (1)

Terroir was the theme of the family reunion dinner I hosted in Marathon, Greece.

Chicago, Illinois, USA
Chicago, Illinois, USA

It is a long way from Chicago, Illinois to Marathon!

Marathon Beach, Attica, Greece
Marathon Beach, Attica, Greece

But my cousin and his family made it, and here we were, having dinner in the piazzetta of my hunting lodge.

I had some ideas about the menu, but my inner voice was telling me to take it easy and not rush to the market with a shopping list. Instead, I was going to get the best produce and ingredient I would find on the day.

What follows is the result of this process that never fails me.

Inevitably, the menu was based on the ingredients and produce of the terroir, comprising air, soil and sea.

Beetroot from Marathon, Greece
Beetroot from Marathon, Greece

To start with the vegetables, Peter likes beetroot. So I got the best from Vassilis in Marathon.

Boiled beetroot
Boiled beetroot

In addition to the bulb, which I boiled and peeled the skin off, I boiled the leaves. Both were served au naturel, with olive oil, salt, chopped garlic and lemon juice as optional dressing on the side. I particularly enjoy the beetroot with the chopped garlic, much more than with garlic dip (skordalia in Greek). It has a powerful taste, and I particularly like the contrast of the sweetness of the beetroot with the uncompromising sting of the garlic.

Boiled beetroot leaves
Boiled beetroot leaves

Vassilis is also producing zucchini, which are unbelievably tasty.

Zucchini from Marathon, Greece
Zucchini from Marathon, Greece

So, zucchini were my second choice for a summer vegetable to enjoy on the table.

I boiled the zucchini and served them au naturel, with the dressing on the side. The taste of the zucchini without anything is so delicious, that sometimes I eat a couple without dressing, and only after I Add some olive oil, salt and lemon juice.

Green peas from Livanates, Greece
Green peas from Livanates, Greece

Moving on, I got some green peas from Livanates, a small town near Thebes.

Green peas with pomodori, onions, chilli pepper, and parseley
Green peas with pomodori, onions, chilli pepper, and parseley

I cooked them with pomodori, onion, chilli pepper, and parsley.

Another one in the bag.

The next round of dishes comes from the sea.

Skate from Euboia, Greece.
Skate from Euboia, Greece.

My fishmonger is just fantastic, and one more he proved himself to be one.

Skate from Euboia, Greece
Skate from Euboia, Greece

When he saw me he pointed at a skate on the icebed and said. “This is for you”.

I do not argue with statements like this.

Boiled skate with garlic, parseley, chilli pepper, olive oil, salt and lemon juice
Boiled skate with garlic, parseley, chilli pepper, olive oil, salt and lemon juice

I just obey. For my own good.

I boiled the fish, took the flesh off the bones and mixed it in a big bowl with chopped garlic, olive oil, a touch of salt, lemon juice and a little chilli pepper.

Shrimp from Kranidi, Greece
Shrimp from Kranidi, Greece

Then came the shrimp.

Fished from a bay east of Nafplion, they looked fantastic.

Grilled shrimp
Grilled shrimp

I grilled them as they came off the sea. I add a few bay leaves on the side of the grill, for extra flavor.

Grilled shrimp
Grilled shrimp

Last but not least, I got some super fresh sardines, because I love sardines, and Mary likes them too.

My fish monger gutted them and chopped their heads off. I sprinkled coarse salt over them and grilled them.

Grilled sardines
Grilled sardines

 

I always take them off while they are juicy and soft. My new touch was that I added some mint leaves on the side, to enhance the flavor. It worked.

The sardines were sweet, juicy and delicious.

And as Ferran Adria once said “fresh sardine is better than stale lobster”.

We had a great time, the only problem as Peter said was that there was not enough food.

Next time I will get more.

It was nice to see you guys, come again!

Kaletzi, near Marathon, view south
Kaletzi, near Marathon, view south

Sources

1. Vive le Terroir By STEVEN ERLANGER Published: August 31, 2013. The New York Times.

The burning of frigate Hellas in 1831 by Admiral Miaoulis – Η πυρπολησις της φρεγατας “Ελλας” το 1831 απο το ναυαρχο Μιαουλη

Nikolaos Gyzis The Spider
Nikolaos Gyzis The Spider

Introduction Greece is a country with a very rich history in civil strife and conflict, escalating to war. Today’s post is embedded in my attempt to dig deeper in the History of modern Greece (after 1821) in order to better understand the perils and challenges of today, and act accordingly. I am not a historian or a social scientist. My approach is therefore realistic, trying to focus on facts and reality. Interpretation by necessity takes the passenger seat. The burning of frigate Hellas in 1831 by Admiral Miaoulis is an act with multiple repercussions. But most of all it is the first serious internal conflict in the country that emerged from the War of Independence of 1821 and the formation of the Greek State.

Ioannis Kapodistrias – National Historical Museum, Athens

Ioannis Kapodistrias – Ιωαννης Καποδιστριας Only ten years after the beginning of the War of Greek Independence in 1821, the newly formed Greek State faced its first major challenge: Governor Kapodistrias was murdered.  This event marked the formation of the Greek State. There is no doubt that had Kapodistrias completed his program, the Greek State would have become something totally different from what it is today. On the 30th March 1827, the National Assempby of Troizina elected Ioannis Kapodistrias as Governor of the Greek State. Kapodistrias arrived in Nafplion on the 7th January 1828. On the 18th January 1828 the Parliament approves the suspension of the Constitution and Kapodistrias becomes the Absolute Ruler, assisted by the Panhellenion, an advisory body with 27 members.

The Greek State in 1830 and 1832
The Greek State in 1830 and 1832

In 1828, the territory of Greece was limited to the Peloponnese, a few islands and a small part of the mainland. The main features of the situation in Greece in 1828 were the following:

  • disorganized state
  • destroyed economy
  • contraband
  • lack of discipline in military units
  • non existent tax mechanism
  • many orphans and homeless people
  • bandits
  • piracy in the Aegean

Powerful groups of interests were fighting each other for the domination of the political and economic scene. Governor Kapodistrias set as his major goal the creation of a State, starting from nothing.

Hellenic Navy Seal
Hellenic Navy Seal

Frigate “Hellas” Frigate “Hellas” was built in the United States of America, and financed by the second loan to the Greek State, raised by the London Greek Committee. The shipbuilding order was issued in 1825. At the time, the Greek Navy consisted of ships owned mainly by the islanders of Hydra, Psara and Spetses. The small ships had no operational capability against the navy of the Ottoman Empire. “London Greek Committee  (act. 1823–1826) was created in March 1823 to support the cause of Greek independence from Ottoman rule by raising funds by subscription for a military expedition to Greece and by raising a major loan to stabilize the fledgling Greek government. The plan to raise the first Greek loan, which began in earnest when Ioannis Orlandos (c.1800–1852) and Louriottis arrived in London in January 1824 to begin negotiations, was more successful. The speculative bubble surrounding the South American loans was at its height, but was not to burst for another year. Nevertheless the terms of the loan were favourable to the lenders, with £800,000 to be borrowed at 5 per cent interest, and £100 of stock could be purchased for £59 payable in six monthly instalments from early March. Thus only £472,000 could be raised, but the return to lenders was enhanced considerably by the discounted price. Leading figures in the committee believed that they would make handsome profits. The first loan was followed by a second, negotiated directly by the Greek deputies with J. and S. Ricardo, the bankers, without the authorization of the committee but with the involvement of some of its key members, including Hobhouse, Burdett, and Edward Ellice  (1783–1863). It was thought that the funds from the second loan might be used to stabilize the first, but the funds were again squandered, this time in fitting out an expedition of steamboats (with machinery supplied by the London engineer Alexander Galloway), to have been led by the celebrated Lord Cochrane, which came to nothing, and the building and purchase of two expensive frigates in America when plenty of cheaper versions were available in Britain or on the continent.” (1)

Frigate Hellas and Steamship Karteria
Frigate Hellas and Steamship Karteria

But how did the purchase of the two frigates come to nothing? It is a long story. In summary, the ship builders raised their price while in the process of building the ships, and as a result the Greek State could not pay. Only one of the two ships, “Hope”, that was renamed to “Hellas”, was eventually purchsed. The other, the Liberator, had to be sold. “Binding arbitration was to solve this problem and the arbitrators were authorized to sell one frigate on a public action for the necessary funds. Their decision was 3 August 1826 that the financiers owned $ 894,908.62 for the building excluded another $ 34,246.55 for rigging, cables, extra spurs and shot which allowed a 3 years service. The arbitrators sold the Liberator to the American government. She was taken as the 44 guns frigate Hudson into the American Navy. Laid down at Smith&Dimon, New York 1825 and launched 1826. Due to this selling the Greek were able to pay for the second frigate they ordered. Her sister ship, originally named Hope, departed New York October 1826 and was taken into Greek service as the Hellas.” (2) On the 25th November 1826, the Greek frigate Hellas arrived in Nafplion to become the first flagship of the Hellenic Navy.

Andreas Miaoulis
Andreas Miaoulis

Andreas Miaoulis Andreas Miaoulis was a wealthy ship owner, ship master and merchant from the island of Hydra. He is reputed to have met Lord Admiral Nelson when in 1802 his ship was captured near Cadiz by the English fleet. Miaoulis was taken to Lord Nelson, who asked him why he was breaking the naval blockage of the English against the French. Miaoulis responded that it was in his interest to do so. “What would you do if you were in my position?” asked Nelson, and Miaoulis replied: “I would hang you!”. After this exchange Lord Nelson freed Miaoulis. (3) Miaoulis got involed in the Greek War of Independence in the Summer of 1821 and his contribution was huge. In 1822 he was elected Admiral of the Fleet of Hydra. By 1825 he became the  Admiral of the Greek Fleet. Miaoulis belonged ot the “English” camp of Greece, while Kapodistrias allegedly belonged to the Russian camp. I must comment on this, as I think that the importance of the “camps” has been overstated at times. I believe that no matter how strong the interests of England, France and Russia were, the Greek interest groups were on the driving seat. As far as Kapodistrias’ allegiance to Russia goes, I do not think that there is any evidence that he compromised his performance as Governor of Greece in order to favor Russia. In spite of being in the English camp, in 1827 the National Assempby of Troizina nominated Admiral Cochrane as vice Admiral of the Greek Fleet. Miaoulis was displeased and withdrew from the admiralty, maintaining the command of frigate “Hellas”. In any case, Cochrane stayed in Greece until early 1828. After Kapodistrias arrived in Nafplion, he placed Miaoulis in the Admiralty. The relationship of the two men became problematic in late 1830, when Miaoulis started opposing Kapodistrias’ policies regarding the remuneration of the shipowners of Hydra.

Hatzikiriakos-Ghikas “Big Scenery of Hydra” Oil in canvas,1938
Hatzikiriakos-Ghikas “Big Scenery of Hydra” Oil in canvas,1938

The rebellion of 1831   In 1831, Greece descended into anarchy with numerous areas, including Mani and Hydra, in revolt. Hydrians and other dissatisfied islanders from the Aegean sea, people of Poros, Mykenos, Syros, Naxos, Andros and Paros fought hard against Kapodistrias which led to rebellion against him. The big problem for the leaders of the island of Hydra was allegedly that Governor Kapodistrias was not accepting their demands for benefits and remuneration for their contribution to the War of Independence. But an equally important item on the agenda of all who rebelled was that Kapodistrias was sticking to his guns and was not letting the powermongers of Mani, Hydra, and other areas play their game unhindered. It was a power struggle, and it was going to cost Kapodistrias his life and destroy for good any chance of building a proper State in Greece. Kapodistrias was not going to yield to the demands of the rebels. He asked Konstantinos Kanaris, the commander of the Greek Fleet Base on the island of Poros to be prepared for operations. The overall plan was to impose a blockade on the port of Hydra, apply the law everywhere, and not allow the rebels to engage in any activity against the State. But the plans leaked and the rebels’ leader Mavrokordatos asked Andreas Miaoulis to take control of the Greek Fleet’s Base in Poros. Andrea Miaoulis acted promptly and on the 14th July 1831 he took control over frigate “Hellas” and other ships. Kapodistrias tried to mobilize the three powers, England, France, and Russia, to mediate in the conflict. England and France started dragging their feet, while declaring the need to find a solution. The Russians were more forthcoming, and this is what broke the camel’s back.

Andreas Miaoulis' Escape Boat
Andreas Miaoulis’ Escape Boat

On the pretence that the Russians were going to take over the Greek Navy, on the 1st of August 1831, at the port of Poros, Andreas Miaoulis destroyed the corvettes, “Hydra” and “Spetses” and the frigate “Hellas”.   Miaoulis escaped from the scene on one of the lifeboats of “Hellas”, which you can see on the photo above. Konstantinos Kanaris, in his letter to Kapodistrias wrote: ‘On the 1st August, at 1030 hours approaching noon, near the island of Poros, Miaoulis burned “Hellas” and “Hydra”. May the name of the doer of this barbaric act be given to eternal damnation!” (3) The English Journal “Spectator” on 10th September 1831 published an article on the event. “The Government of Capo D’Istrias (sic) is drawing to a close. The secret probably is, that he has come to the end of his money ; while, at the same time, he is accused of keeping a full chest on board a Russian frigate, where he has a kind of head- quarters. The country seems to be breaking up into separate little independencies, as of old. Hydra takes the lead with the Islands ; Maina has already formed a local and independent government ; Roumelia is in insurrection ; and the want of money to pay volun- teers is the only circumstance which now, as well as at all pre- vious times, restrains the inhabitants of the remaining, districts from doing the same.” (Source: The Spectator Archive).

The Aftermath

Governor Kapodistrias, was murdered by George and Constantinos Mavromihalis on the 27th September 1831 at Nafplio. In 1832 Miaoulis was chosen by the Bavarian Court to be one of the Greeks that delivered the Crown to the first King of Greece, Otto of Bavaria.

Sources

1. London Greek Committee  (act. 1823–1826) by F. Rosen. Oxford University Press.

2. The Greek frigate Liberator never served in the Greek navy but became instead USS frigate Hudson. Warshipresearch.

3. Wikipedia. Andreas Miaoulis (in Greek)

Aphrodite (Venus), Pan and Eros: A sculpture in the National Archaelogical Museum of Athens

A sculpture of Aphrodite, Pan and Eros, exhibited in the National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, in Greece, is the subject of this post.

The sculpture was made at about 100 BC of Parian marble, and was found on the island of Delos, in the House of the Poseidoniasts of Beirut. On the low base of the group an inscription is carved: ‘Dionysos, son of Zenon who was son Theodoros, from Beirut dedicated [this offering] to the ancestral gods for his own benefit and that of his children’.

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble  100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

A few introductory words about who is who are in order.

Aphrodite (Venus for the Romans) is the goddess of love and beauty. A victim of her own success and beauty, Aphrodite has never lost her sense of earthy pleasure.

Eros (Cupid for the Romans) is the god of love, son of Aphrodite. Somethies he is innocent, with rosy cheeks and beautiful smile, other times he is totally vicious, tormenting humans with his arrows.

Pan is the god of the Wild, half goat half man, and a very very notty old fart!

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble  100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

What is the story in the sculpture?

Aphrodite, is stark naked. She appears to be trying to fend off an overwhelming expression of affinity by Pan.

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble  100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

Her right hand is slightly raised and holds a sandal.

Is she ready to strike Pan?

It appears to be so.

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble  100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

But it isn’t.

For one, a closer look at ther muscles will show us that is very relaxed.

For another, her face is almost smiling. A veiled smile emerges. And the angle of her head is such that she is not directly looking at Pan.

The last unmistakable signal that Aphrodite sends to the observer of the scene is the position of her left hand. A woman under attack would almost by instinct try to cover her most exposed nudity, touching the puberty area using her palm. But Aphrodite is not doing that. Her palm is relaxed and at some distance from her flesh.

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble  100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

Pan is in a hopeless state. He cannot help himself and is totally at a loss.

He is trying to embrace Aphrodite in the most awkward of ways. Look at his right hand, how high it is in Aphrodite’s back. Not exactly a gesture of aggression. More a gesture of creeping affinity.

It is like he is lusting for her but at the same time he is shying away from expressing his lust.

group6
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

Eros (I would have preferred to call him “Putto” like the Italians do, but being Greek I have to stick to my mother tongue) is a little devil in the middle of the two protagonists of this subdued ensemble action. His apparently tries to separate them, in a sense protecting Aphrodite.

But is he?

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

His smiling face, his posture (look at the angle of the head) is more like saying “I want to be part of this”.

His bodily posture is a posture of palying. He pushes Pan’s right horn ever so gently, more touching than pushing, smiling all the time.

And the old boy returns the smile.

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

As a final observation before my conclusion, I offer the angle of Aphrodite’s left ankle. How gentle and relaxed and playful! Restrained and at the same time powerful, but not aggressive!

And this brings me to the supreme feature of the sculpture. Its ambivalence.

All three protagonists are doing something and at the same time they are not.

And in the process, being totally submerged into this ambivalence, they have a hell of a good time!

Ancient Greece at her best!

Aphrodite (Venus), Pan and Eros: A sculpture in the National Archaelogical Museum of Athens

A sculpture of Aphrodite, Pan and Eros, exhibited in the National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, in Greece, is the subject of this post.

The sculpture was made at about 100 BC of Parian marble, and was found on the island of Delos, in the House of the Poseidoniasts of Beirut. On the low base of the group an inscription is carved: ‘Dionysos, son of Zenon who was son Theodoros, from Beirut dedicated [this offering] to the ancestral gods for his own benefit and that of his children’.

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble  100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

A few introductory words about who is who are in order.

Aphrodite (Venus for the Romans) is the goddess of love and beauty. A victim of her own success and beauty, Aphrodite has never lost her sense of earthy pleasure.

Eros (Cupid for the Romans) is the god of love, son of Aphrodite. Somethies he is innocent, with rosy cheeks and beautiful smile, other times he is totally vicious, tormenting humans with his arrows.

Pan is the god of the Wild, half goat half man, and a very very notty old fart!

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble  100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

What is the story in the sculpture?

Aphrodite, is stark naked. She appears to be trying to fend off an overwhelming expression of affinity by Pan.

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble  100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

Her right hand is slightly raised and holds a sandal.

Is she ready to strike Pan?

It appears to be so.

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble  100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

But it isn’t.

For one, a closer look at ther muscles will show us that is very relaxed.

For another, her face is almost smiling. A veiled smile emerges. And the angle of her head is such that she is not directly looking at Pan.

The last unmistakable signal that Aphrodite sends to the observer of the scene is the position of her left hand. A woman under attack would almost by instinct try to cover her most exposed nudity, touching the puberty area using her palm. But Aphrodite is not doing that. Her palm is relaxed and at some distance from her flesh.

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble  100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

Pan is in a hopeless state. He cannot help himself and is totally at a loss.

He is trying to embrace Aphrodite in the most awkward of ways. Look at his right hand, how high it is in Aphrodite’s back. Not exactly a gesture of aggression. More a gesture of creeping affinity.

It is like he is lusting for her but at the same time he is shying away from expressing his lust.

group6
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

Eros (I would have preferred to call him “Putto” like the Italians do, but being Greek I have to stick to my mother tongue) is a little devil in the middle of the two protagonists of this subdued ensemble action. His apparently tries to separate them, in a sense protecting Aphrodite.

But is he?

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

His smiling face, his posture (look at the angle of the head) is more like saying “I want to be part of this”.

His bodily posture is a posture of palying. He pushes Pan’s right horn ever so gently, more touching than pushing, smiling all the time.

And the old boy returns the smile.

Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.
Aphrodite, Pan and Eros; Parian marble 100 BC. National Archaelogical Museum of Athens, Greece.

As a final observation before my conclusion, I offer the angle of Aphrodite’s left ankle. How gentle and relaxed and playful! Restrained and at the same time powerful, but not aggressive!

And this brings me to the supreme feature of the sculpture. Its ambivalence.

All three protagonists are doing something and at the same time they are not.

And in the process, being totally submerged into this ambivalence, they have a hell of a good time!

Ancient Greece at her best!

Greece’s Golden Dawn: Better late than never?

Cy Twombly: Untitled
Cy Twombly: Untitled

In February 27th 2013, in a post on Golden Dawn’s proselytizing children, I wrote:

“Why New Democracy, PASOK, Democratic Left and SYRIZA do not ask the institutional court of the country to outlaw Golden Dawn?”

Today the leader of Golden Dawn and some of his deputies have been arrested by the authorities in Greece and face charges for setting up and operating a criminal organization.

The most recent sad predecessor to today’s events is the cold blood murder of a leftist artist in a working class suburb of Piraeus, near Athens in Greece.

He was stabbed to death by a Golden Dawn operative.

Today’s events are a major change for the Prime Minister, Antonis Samaras, leader of the New Democracy Party, the major member of the right-center coalition governing Greece.

But it is just a step, albeit a major one.

Jean Michel Basquiat, Untitled
Jean Michel Basquiat, Untitled

A lot of questions require answers.

Who was financing the operation of the Golden Dawn?

What were the links of the organization to the Police and the Army?

Why did the ruling New Democracy Party block all attempts of the other parties to stop Golden Dawn’s activities until now?

Objects that tell a story: (2) A poetry book in English

“During the First World War Hoelderlin’s hymns were packed in the soldier’s knapsack together with cleaning gear”.

Martin Heidegger, “The Origin of the Work of Art”.

Demonstration in Athens, March 1942
Demonstration in Athens, March 1942

Today’s object is not available to me.

As a matter of fact, I have never seen it.

Today’s object has no photograph that I can show you.

Military Academy of Athens
Military Academy of Athens

Today’s object has been destroyed.

Today’s object is a poetry book in English.

Today’s object is a book without a title.

At some unknown point in time, it became a possession of my uncle George.

Allied forces in Gazi, Athens, 1944
Allied forces in Gazi, Athens, 1944

This might have been the result of a gift or a loan or a purchase.

But it is not important to dwell on that.

It was sometime before or during the second world war that George got hold of it.

Greek Civil War 1944-1949
Greek Civil War 1944-1949

Shortly after the Germans withdrew from Greece in October 1944, another War started, the Greek Civil War that lasted until 1949.

At that time George was an officer of the Greek Army, and served at the front line.

Map of Grammos
Map of Grammos

It was during a long engagement of the Greek Army with the communist – supported “Democratic Army of Greece” in the Northwestern area near Konitsa, called “Mastorohoria”, that the story with the poetry book unfolded.

George had taken the book with him.

During one of the skirmishes with the enemy, George’s unit had to cross in a haste the river Sarantaporos; in the process he lost the book.

Pyrsogianni - Πυρσογιαννη
Pyrsogianni – Πυρσογιαννη

When George’s unit took the offensive again, they crossed the river going north, and succeeded to push their opponents further to the north.

During this successful offensive, at the end of an operation they went by a machine gun bunker.

There was smoke coming out of it.

As a standard procedure, they had to go in and ensure that it was safe.

Sarantaporos River, Northern Greece
Sarantaporos River, Northern Greece

They went in and found that all inside were dead.

In the middle of the burning debris and the dead bodies, the officer in charge found a and picked up bloodstained book.

Much to his surprise, inside the book he saw an inscription with George’s name.

After the officer finished his inspection of the burned bunker he came out carrying the poetry book in his hands and went straight to George.

Plagia (Zerma)
Plagia (Zerma)

“George, is this your book?” he asked.

George took the book in his hands: “Yes, it is mine”

“Do you want to take it?” the officer asked.

George did not take the book.

He left it there.

Green peas, potatoes and artichokes: a ticket to heaven

Today I have a humble but most delicious dish that I consider a ticket to heaven.

And I must confess, I never say no to a ticket to heaven, no matter what the price.

In this case, the price is minimal.

Green peas in their shells
Green peas in their shells

This is not the result of my cooking skills and incredible experience; alas, I have to admit that it is 99% due to the sublime quality of the ingredients.

Green peas
Green peas

The freshest ingredients were grown and harvested in the seaside town of Oreoi in Northern Evoia, Greece, where I spent Easter 2013 with my cousins Kostas and Maria.

Maria gave me the peas and the artichokes as I was leaving to drive back to Marathon.

Artichokes and green onions
Artichokes and green onions

We talk about peas and we think sweet and fragrant. Add “crunchy”. They were so fresh that I could eat them all uncooked.

They key to cooking the best ingredients is to preserve their flavor and texture, and only add the minimum of taste enhancement agents.

I added olive oil and butter on a deep pan, and let it melt and mix.

Potatoes in olive oil and butter
Potatoes in olive oil and butter

I then sautéed potatoes (grown in Marathon) to enhance the color and coat them with the oil and butter mix.

On top of the potatoes I grated lemon peel, and added salt and pepperoncino.

Grating lemon peel
Grating lemon peel

After the potatoes got a golden brown color, I added the peas, thinly sliced green onions, fresh coriander, some water and two sliced sun dried tomatoes.

Green peas, potatoes and artichokes in the pot
Green peas, potatoes and artichokes in the pot

I let them come to a boil and then added the artichoke hearts, the stems and the juice of one lemon.

After 15 minutes they were ready.

Green peas, potatoes and artichokes - served
Green peas, potatoes and artichokes – served

I let them rest for 20 minutes, and then served with fresh bread and white wine, preferably asyrtico of Santorini.

Green peas, potatoes and artichokes - detail
Green peas, potatoes and artichokes – detail

Bon appetite!

Proselytizing children and adolescents to fascism – Greece’s Golden Dawn “spiritual awakening” seminars

Europe has a tradition in democracy.

Democracy was born in Athens, Greece.

However, today democracy is having a really tough time in its own birthplace.

The town of Artemisia (Loutsa) is 20 km east of Athens.

Golden Dawn's "Spiritual Awakening" Seminars
Golden Dawn’s “Spiritual Awakening” Seminars

In this low to middle income sleepy town, the extreme right party of Golden Dawn has started proselytizing children and adolescents, claiming that they teach them history.

“Ta Nea” (The News) newspaper reports today that on Saturday, 23rd February the Artemissia (Loutsa) office of the Golden Dawn party issued a statement that they started a program of “spiritual awakening” that is addressed to children and adolescents.

According to the article written by Yannis Papadopoulos, the program is based on the book “Propaganda – Methodology and techniques of the manipulation of the masses”, written by the Propaganda Minister of the Colonel’s Greek Junta Georgios Georgalas back in 1967.

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On the website of the newspaper one can find also interviews with 14-14 year olds who say that “whenever they meet a Pakistani they run after him”. The argument they use is convincing: “If the Golden Dawn (adult) members do it, why shouldn’t we?”

Attacking – and even murdering – “foreigners with dark skin color” is happening in the country that gave birth to democracy.

Golden Dawn is the third most popular party according to the polls after New Democracy and SYRIZA.

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The leaders of the fascist party make open and clear statements regarding their view of democracy and its institutions.

Recently Golden Dawn invited in their offices in the Greek Parliament German Neo-Nazis.

In spite of all that, Golden Dawn is today a legally recognized party that benefits from all the rights of – whatever remains of – the Greek Democracy.

Golden Dawn and German Neo-Nazis in the Greek Parliament
Golden Dawn and German Neo-Nazis in the Greek Parliament

This attitude of tolerance – or rather cowardice – towards the fascists I find as one more sign that Greece is rapidly becoming a society that has lost its democratic bearings. With potentially disastrous implications.

Why New Democracy, PASOK, Democratic Left and SYRIZA do not ask the institutional court of the country to outlaw Golden Dawn?

My question should be read as technical. I am not a constitutional expert. The procedure may be different, but the fact is that if these parties wanted, they could outlaw Golden Dawn.

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The fact is that they do not do it.

“We should therefore claim, in the name of tolerance, the right not to tolerate the intolerant. We should claim that any movement preaching intolerance places itself outside the law, and we should consider incitement to intolerance and persecution as criminal.” Karl Popper, Philosopher.

 

Hasan Tahsin Pasha: A hero, a traitor, or just not up to his responsibilities?

Introduction

Hasan Tahsin Pasha (1845–1918) was the Ottoman Commander of the 8th Army Corps who in October 1912 handed Thessaloniki over to the Greeks.

He did so without firing a shot.

He has been called a traitor, condemned to death by the Ottoman military court in Istanbul, and suffered the indignity of spending his last years as an exile.

On the other hand, he is considered to be a hero because he spared the city of Thessaloniki the damages and destruction of war.

Before we arrive at any conclusions though, let us trace the events that led to the surrender and the handover of Thessaloniki to the Greeks.

Map of the Balkans at 1905
Map of the Balkans at 1905

The first Balkan War started in early October 1912 as an armed conflict between Serbia, Greece, Montenegro and Bulgaria on one side and the Ottoman Empire on the other. Greece was the weakest of the three major Balkan allies, with a population of only 2.7 million and with fresh memories of the humiliating defeat in the Greco-Turkish war of 1897.

In spite of its apparent inferirority, the Greek Army started the war with a decisive victory in Sarantaporo, followed by another in the battle of Yannitsa. The liberation of Thessaloniki almost immediately after the battle of Yannitsa was the climax of Tahsin Pasha’s personal drama.

Note on the dates

Please note that some of the dates of the events mentioned below are based on the old calendar, as is for example the date of the liberation of Thessaloniki, 26th October 1912. In the modern calendar, the date is the 9th November. In any case, Whenever the date is based on the old calendar, I make a note.

The Battle of Sarantaporo

The Battle of Sarantaporo, variously also transliterated as ‘Sarantaporon or Sarandaporon (Greek: Μάχη του Σαρανταπόρου) took place on October 9-10 (old calendar), 1912. It was the first major battle fought between the Greek and Ottoman armies in the First Balkan War, and resulted in a Greek victory.

The battle was of major significance to the war. The Greek soldiers performed well, and the victory helped expunge the stain of the defeat in the war of 1897. Furthermore, the Sarantaporo passes were the only positions where the numerically inferior Ottoman forces had any hope of stopping the Greek Army. Field Marshal von der Goltz had confidently proclaimed that the passes would prove to be “the graveyard of the Greek Army”.

In his memoirs, General Hassan Tahsin Pasha, describes, in his own way, the conditions, which prevailed, and the outcome of the collapse of the front (3):
“The Chief of Staff, who returned, in the early hours of the morning, a human wreck, because of the fatigue and anguish felt by his soul, reported flatly to me that the last hope of maintaining the defence of the passage through the gates was lost because of the indescribable panic which had been caused and the uncontrollable flight of the reserves who had been saved from the bloody struggle at the fort of… I anticipated that it would be impossible to confront the enemy on a new line because of its overwhelming superiority both in quantity and quality, especially in its artillery, where the ratio was such that it brought with it apparent implications not only for this line itself but for the entire front in western and central Macedonia. It was, however, in the morale of the opposing forces where the difference was greatest”.

Field Marshal von der Goltz
Field Marshal von der Goltz

After the battle of Sarantaporo, “The demoralized Ottomans retreated northward, abandoning stores and equipment. The Greeks pursued them leisurely. The exhaustion of their troops and the dificulties of transportation prevented them from chasing the enemy and delivering a decisive blow. They also lacked an effective appreciation of reconnaissance. One observer noted, ‘There is no such thing as a scout in the whole Greek army’.  The same inability and disinclination to pursue the defeated enemy beset the Serbs after Kumanovo and the Bulgarians after Lozengrad.” (1)

Following the victory at Sarantaporo the first tension between Crown Prince Constantine and Venizelos surfaced, in a dispute over the army’s course . Constantine wanted to march due north, towards Monastir, while Venizelos was anxious that the army should turn east, towards the strategically important city and harbor of Thessaloniki. King George overruled his son’s insistence that the army pursue a military rather than a political agenda and Salonika became the chief objective of the Greek army. This development reinforced the divide between the Crown Prince and prime minister Venizelos, which would result in the former being ousted by the latter in 1917.

The battle of Yannitsa

“On 1 November, Ottoman positions at Yanitsa (Turkish, Yenije Vardar) held up the Greek advance. The two sides fought a bloody battle. The Ottomans, reinforced by troops from Bitola, resisted stoutly at first. On 2 November, the Greeks overran the Ottoman positions at a cost of 1,200 dead and wounded, with around 1,960 dead and wounded ottoman. They then turned to the east toward their goal. The Ottomans had destroyed the road bridge, but not the railway bridge over the Vardar River. Using the railway bridge, the Greeks continued their advance. The way to Salonika was now open.” (1)

The battle of Yannitsa freed the way for the liberation of Thessaloniki.

The defeated Turks rushed back on the road to Thessaloniki. Their morale destroyed, their ankles deep in mud. The military correspondent of the “Times”, Crawford Price wrote: “I have seen a lot of noteworthy things in Macedonia, but nothing as dramatic as the retreat of the defeated Tahsin Pasha’s troops the day after the battle of Yannitsa.”

The artillery commander Manouil Raktivan wrote to Penelope Delta “20th October – old calendar – in Yannitsa. It is the day we actually got Thessaloniki back.” (2)

The liberation of Thessaloniki by the Greek Army

Greek troops were closing in and Salonica was in great danger. As fighting was going on in Giannitsa, the ex-Sultan in exile, Abdülhamit II, was removed from Salonica back to Istanbul for his safety (see my article on Abdülhamit II). Meanwhile, the Greeks supported the Thessaly Army from the sea. Troops were landed on the shores east of Salonica on 5 November and on the same day a Greek destroyer sunk the Ottoman warship Feth-i Bülent, which was anchored at the port of Salonica.

The town was not only blockaded, but Greek warships, including Averof, were shelling the Turkish fortifications as well. (7)

The Governor of Salonica, Nazım Bey, asked Hasan Tahsin Paşa not to fight in the suburbs in order to protect the city and its inhabitants from harm. The Turkish commander was desperate. He had only 25,000 men, encircled by more than 100,000 Greeks and Bulgarians, and he was thinking that surrender would be a better idea than futile bloodshed. An armistice was agreed by between Hasan Tahsin Paşa and Crown Prince Constantine and on November 9, troops of the Thessaly Army occupied the city without facing resistance. One thousand Turkish officers, including Hasan Tahsin himself, and 25,000 men were taken prisoner and 70 artillery guns were confiscated. Two days later, the King of Greece, George I, entered Salonica amidst the cheers of the local Christian population. Meanwhile, the Struma Corps commanded by Ali Nadir Paşa, which was supposed to prevent the Serbian forces from reaching the Aegean shores, had surrendered as well. (7) 

Constantine entering Thessaloniki
Greek troops entering Thessaloniki 1912
When pressed by the Bulgarians to come to terms with them, Tahsin Pasha replied “I have only one Thessaloniki, which I surrendered to the Greeks”. (1)

The British reporter, Crawford Price, conveys the image of the entrance of the Greek army to the readers of the Times (3):
«The first afternoon hours had already passed when a detachment of cavalry at the head of the Evzone battalion proceeded through the streets of Thessaloniki in this way offering an opportunity to the Greek population of the Macedonian capital to demonstrate their feelings. The flags with the Turkish crescent moon disappeared as if by magic and were replaced everywhere by blue and white Greek flags. Beautiful girls on their balconies were showering the victors with rose petals until every road was covered with a carpet of flowers and the crowd was cheering continuously. So great was the crowd which had gathered before the khaki-clad soldiers that it was only with difficulty that the soldiers were able to proceed even in simple lines.”

Richard Hall comments on the surrender of Tahsin Pasha: “The Ottomans sold Salonika cheaply. Although the Greek fleet cut off the city and any hopes of reinforcement by sea, the Ottomans still had significant forces in Macedonia at the time of surrender. They might have resisted for a while on the east bank of the Vardar River, which formed a significant natural obstacle. Unfortunately, they did not even destroy the railway bridge across the river. They also might have bought valuable time by extending the negotiations and exploiting the rivalry between the Bulgarians and the Greeks. These failures were the fault of the Ottoman command. Clearly Hassan Tahsin Pasha was not up to his responsibilities.” (1)

Kenan Messare: The surrender of Thessaloniki
Kenan Messare: The surrender of Thessaloniki

Tahsin Pasha was Albanian, a son in the family of Messare. He studied at the Zossimaea School of Ioannina and married a Greek woman who had converted to Islam.

He served in the Ottoman Army for 40 years, and  everywhere he left the impression of an able, modest and fair commander.

He met with Eleftherios Venizelos while he was stationed on the island of Crete.

Some observers alleged that he was in touch with Venizelos while preparing to surrender Thessaloniki.

No matter  what his motives were, it is clear from the turn of events that Tahsin Pasha did not want to destroy the city, or subject it to the perils of war.

He also did not cherish the thought of the Bulgarians playing a role in the new regime of Thessaloniki.

After his captivity by the Greeks, Tahsin Pasha and his son and adjutant Kenan Messare were sent with the help of Venizelos to France and later to Lausanne, in Switzerland, where Tahsin Pasha perished in 1918.

 

Museum of Balkan Wars, Gefyra, near Thessaloniki
Museum of Balkan Wars, Gefyra, near Thessaloniki

The mansion in Gefyra (Topsin)

Gefyra is a small town on the 25th kilometer of the road from Thessaloniki to Edessa, near the river Axios. Gefyra in Greek means bridge.

In the southeastern part of the town, called in Turkish “Topsin” (a place of artillery) is a  mansion in the middle of the Modiano agricultural estate. The masion was built in 1906 on designs by archtect P. Arigoni, by Yakos Modiano, one of the three sons of Saul Modiano, the second richest owner of land in Ottoman Empire. In the high days of the estate you could see more than 1,000 workers in the farm and the estate.

In 1999 the mansion was bought by the Greek Army and became the Museum of Balkan Wars.

 

In the courtyard of the Museum the visitor will see a monument to Tahsin Pasha. The remains of Tahsin Pasha and his son and adjutant Kenan Messare have been placed inside the monument.

 

The Turks who visit the museum hear Tahsin Pasha’s name with a condescending nod. In the Turkish language even today they use the following expression when one answers how hard is to do something: “As hard as the capture of Salonica!”

book

Field Marshal von der Goltz

After defeat in the Russo-Turkish War (1877-1878), Sultan Hamid, ruler of the Ottoman Empire, asked for German aid in reorganizing the Ottoman Army, so that they would be able to resist the advance of the Russian Empire. Baron von der Goltz was sent. He spent twelve years on this work which provided the material for several of his books. After some years he was given the title Pasha (a signal honor for a non-Muslim) and in 1895, just before he returned to Germany, he was named Mushir (field-marshal). His improvements to the Ottoman army were significant and the Turkish army stopped at the gates of Athens in the Greco-Turkish War (1897), only when the Czar Nicholas II of Russia threatened the Ottoman Sultan that he would be attacking the Ottoman Empire from eastern Anatolia, unless the Ottoman Army stopped the campaign.

On his return to Germany in 1896 Goltz became a lieutenant-general and commander of the 5th division, and in 1898, head of the Engineer and Pioneer Corps and inspector-general of fortifications. In 1900 he was made general of infantry and in 1902 commander of the I. army corps. In 1907 he was made inspector-general of the newly created sixth army inspection established at Berlin, and in 1908 was given the rank of colonel-general (Generaloberst). Following the 1911 manœuvres Goltz was promoted to Generalfeldmarschall (Field Marshal), and retired from active service. In 1911 he founded the Jungdeutschlandbund (Young German League), an umbrella organization of right wing German youth associations.

Goltz died on 19 April 1916, in Baghdad, just two weeks before the British in Kut surrendered. The official reason for his death was typhus, although apparently there were rumors that he had been poisoned by the Turks. In accordance with his will, he was buried in the grounds of the German Consulate in Tarabya, Istanbul, overlooking the Bosporus.

The Greek Army entering Thessaloniki, 1912
The Greek Army entering Thessaloniki, 1912

Sources

(1) Richard Hall, The Balkan Wars

(2) Themes of Greek History: the Battle and Liberation of Yannitsa

(3) Loukianos Hassiotis, MACEDONIA, 1912-1923: FROM THE MULTINATIONAL EMPIRE TO NATION STATE

(4) Χρίστος Κ. Χριστοδούλου,  Οι τρεις ταφές του Χασάν Ταχσίν Πασά με Πρόλογο του Βασίλη Γούναρη. Εκδοσεις Επίκεντρο

(5) Έφη Αλλαμανή, Το Μουσείο των Βαλκανικών Πολέμων στη Γέφυρα και ο Οθωμανός αρχιστράτηγος Χασάν Ταχσίν πασά

(6)  Γιωτα Mυρτσιωτη, Μια έπαυλη γεμάτη με ιστορία και μνήμες,  Το Στρατιωτικό Μουσείο διασώζει ενθυμήματα των Βαλκανικών Πολέμων, Καθημερινη 18-12-11

(7) Turkey in the First World War