“Gastronomy begins in the (market) stalls” old saying
In the middle of Greek winter, and as we are bracing ourselves to elect or not elect a new President of the Greek Democracy (?), surrounded by a multitude of enemies and hostile elements, I reminisce about how good the vegetables are in my hometown, Marathon, Greece. This is a natural reaction from a psychological point of view. When you drown in your own blood and bodily fluids, you need an uplifting element to cheer you up. As the Monty Python song goes, “always look on the bright side of life”.
Most of the vegetables presented here are from Marathon. There are a few exceptions which will be noted. They are included because on the one hand they are important, and on the other hand it is always good to violate a rule, especially one that you have set.
Vegetables are presented first, and then a relevant dish, if available.
A reminder regarding Greek cuisine is due here. What I know as Greek cuisine belongs to the “pastoral” tradition. Simple food, prepared with few means and always with local ingredients. I am not – because I know nothing about it – talking about the cuisine of Ancient Greece, or the cuisine of Byzantium.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers came to Greece from India, where it was known since 3000 BC.
Marathon’s cucumbers are very tasty. They are not as big as the cucumbers from the rearby area of Kalyvia Attika, but size is not everything. Their skin is so thin and soft that there is no reason the peel it off. Assuming that you know the producer and you know that they do not use substances that might make the skin harmful.
Tomatoes
The tomato came to Europe from Central and South America on 1544 and to Greece on 1818.
Their taste and aroma of Marathon tomatoes is unsurpassable. My friend Michalis, the producer from whom I purchase most of the vegetables, has explained to me that it is the combination of two distinct factors that make the Marathon tomatoes unique. The soil and the water. As a matter of fact, the tomatoes growing on the slopes of the hills are more tasty than the tomatoes on the flatland.
Red Radishes
Red radishes are super boosters of the body’s metabolism. We eat them raw, with a touch of salt. Nothing else.
Rumours that radishes are aphrodisiac have not been substantiated by scientific research. To be on the safe side, keep eating at least three or four red radishes prior to your main meal every day, and you might be the lucky winner! The important thing is to be ready when opportunity knocks.
Beetroot from Marathon, Greece
Marathon beetroots are incredible. Not just the roots but also the leaves.
Sliced and dressed beetroots
I boil the roots, slice them, season with chopped garlic, apple vinegar, salt and pepper. Absolutely delicious!
Blanched beetroot leaves
I blanch the leaves because they are very tender and serve with a lemon and olive oil dressing.
Zucchini
Zucchini have been in Greece since the ancient times.
What you see above are the “regular” zucchini, length up to 8 centimeters, diameter less than 1 centimeter.
What you see below is different. I woke up one morning and discovered in my garden a big zucchini.
Its length was 27 cm and it biggest diameter 10 cm.
I was curious to see how this abnormally big vegetable would taste.
The zucchini are so fresh and tasty that I prefer to eat them as fried sticks, either dressed with salt and pepper, or with a mild tzatziki dip (Greek yogurt, grated cucumber, squashed garlic, olive oil, salt). The “healthy” option is boiled, with olive oil and lemon.
Fried zucchini sticks
My fried zucchini sticks are unbeatable. I accept bets and am willing to enter in any relevant competition in any country of the world.As it happened, the “giant” zucchini sticks tasted superb!
Zucchini flowers
Zucchini flowers not only look beautiful, they taste great. The only secret is that they must be fresh, meaning that they have been collected in early morning, and you cook them for lunch. Always open them up to wash lightly, as various flying insects may have penetrated their soft shell.
Zucchini flowers stuffed with fresh white cheese and herbs
There are two major ways of cooking the zucchini flowers. One is to stuff them with young white goat’s cheese with herbs and fry them, the other is to stuff them with rice and spices and then cook them in vegetable broth. I prefer the dish with the young white cheese, as it is an essay on softness and finesse.
Eggplant
And now we arive at the second of my produce – after the giant zucchini – eggplants! I love eggplants! As you see they are “black”.
The eggplant came to Greece in the 12th – 13th century AD from Arabia, through Byzantium.
There is nothing that can describe the aroma of the freshly cut eggplant. This is why I wash them and cook them as quickly as possible. This preserves the flavor and the richness of the taste.
Grilled eggplant
The best way to cook a freshly cut eggplant is to grill it on charcoal, after you coat it in olive oil. If you have the technique, so that the eggplant is cooked but not burned, the result is amazing. The key thing is to slice it at least one centimeter thick.
White aubergines
In the market you can also find white ones, which are supposedly softer and without seeds. The only major difference that counts for me is the skin. The whites’ skin is not bitter. Other than that, I would not know the difference in a blind test where the skin has been removed.
Greek Eggplants – Variety “tsakonikes”
Another variety, much more common in Greece, is “tsakonikes”, originating in the area of Leonidion on the Peloponnese, some 150 km south of Marathon.
Imam bayildi eggplants
These are the best for preparing one of the best dishes of the eastern Mediterranean, “imam bayildi“.
Green Pepper
Here we come to the third of my produces of the summer, green bell peppers! What I wrote above about the aroma of a freshly cut eggplant holds also for the green pepper.
Peppers were imported into Europe from South America in late 15th – early 16th century. It is not known when they came to Greece.
Fried eggplants and peppers
Slicing and frying the freshly cut eggplants and peppers in virgin olive oil produces a simple meal, yet an unforgettable one.
Stuffed peppers
My favourite green pepper dish is stuffed peppers with minced meat. I add pig’s skin (when I have it for extra flavour, oine kerners, raisins, and a touch of rice or bulgur wheat to absorb the liquids.
Stuffed pappers ready to serve
The bitterness and acidity of the pepper blend almost perfectly with the sweetness of the stuffing. It is a perfect dish for imperfect humans.
Green peas
I now move a bit away from Marathon, some 200 kilometers north, to the island of Evoia, where my father was born. In one of my visits there my good cousin gave me green peas and artichokes. It was late spring.
Artichokes
The combined dish with potatoes (and the stems of the artichokes) is just wonderful. If you exclude the potatoes, this is a dish that the ancient Greeks might have enjoyed.
Green peas
When you do not have artichokes, you can still prepare a wonderful dish with green peas, based on the “yahni” cooking style.The dish below I cooked with green peas from the area of Livanates, some 90 km northwest of Marathon, near the ancient town of Thebes.
Green peas with pomodori, onions, chilli pepper, and parseley
Next come runner beans from Marathon.
Green beans from Marathon
They are so tender, that I eat them raw with salt. When I cook them, I prefer a “deconstructed” “yahni” dish. Instead of putting all the ingredinets in a pot, I assemble them after each undergoes processing separately.
String beans are my favourite, but they are quite tricky when you boil them.
String beans
Our last vegetable of the day is okra.
Baby okra from Veroia, Greece
This baby okra came from Veroia, in the North of Greece near the burial area of King Philip, the father of Alexander the Great.
Okra “yahni”
I cook it “yahni”, with onions, garlic, fresh tomatoes, chilli peppers and herbs. The okra is so tender, it melts in your mouth. Unforgettable experience.
Here our short journey ends. I hope to have been able to share with you dear visitor and reader some of the unique and distinct vegetables of MArathon and some other areas of Greece.
The mountains look on Marathon,
And Marathon looks on the sea.
And musing there an hour alone,
I dreamed that Greece might still be free,
For standing on the Persian’s grave,
I could not deem myself a slave. (Lord Byron, The Isles of Greece)
Marathon – Tumulus
In his 1846 review of Grote’s “History of Greece”, John Stuart Mill wrote:
“The interest of Grecian history is unexhausted and inexhaustible. As a mere story, hardly any other portion of authentic history can compete with it. Its characters, its situations, the very march of its incidents, are epic. It is an heroic poem, of which the personages are peoples. It is also, of all histories of which we know so much, the most abounding in consequences to us who now live. The true ancestors of the European nations (it has been well said) are not those from whose blood they are sprung, but those from whom they derive the richest portion of their inheritance. The battle of Marathon, even as an event in English history, is more important than the battle of Hastings. If the issue of that day had been different, the Britons and the Saxons might still have been wandering in the woods.”
Remnants of the Tropaion erected on the plain of Marathon after the battle. Archaelogical Museum of Marathon
Introduction
The Battle of Marathon is important for many reasons. Lord Byron and John Stuart Mill stated some of the them in the passages quated above.
It also has many layers.
The military layer is one of them.
The other is Persians against Greeks.
There is also one though that is not apparent at first sight. Democracy against oligarchy and aristocracy.
The Pnyx in Athens
Democracy in Athens
One clarification is required at the outset. The Athenian Polis included all of Attica, not only the geographic area of Athens.
Marathon is one of the areas of Attica, and thus was part of the Athenian Polis.
Most historians agree that Democracy in Athens was established by Cleisthenes in 508/507.
In 510 BC, with the help of the Spartans, Cleisthenes overthrew Hippias, the ruler of Athens, son of tyrant Peisistratos, who ruled the City until 528 BC.
But he did not rule straight away, because the Spartans favoured his rival, Isagoras, and they expelled Cleisthenes from the city.
After returning to power, Cleisthenes made some significant reforms that strengthened democratic rule (8):
He established legislative bodies run by individuals chosen by lottery, a true test of real democracy, rather than kinship or heredity.
He reorganized the Boule, created with 400 members under Solon, so that it had 500 members, 50 from each tribe.
He also introduced the bouletic oath, “To advise according to the laws what was best for the people”.
The court system (Dikasteria — law courts) was reorganized and had from 201–5001 jurors selected each day, up to 500 from each tribe.
It was the role of the Boule to propose laws to the assembly of voters, who convened in Athens around forty times a year for this purpose. The bills proposed could be rejected, passed or returned for amendments by the assembly.
It is important to stress that Democracy did not arrive in Athens suddenly. The wheels were set in motion in the 7th century. It just so happens that it all came together when Cleisthenes ruled.
Given the nature of direct democratic rule in Athens, it comes as no surprise that Hippias did not fit in. It was nothing personal. Athenian democracy was incompatible with oligarchy and monarchy. Hippias had no chance to rule Athens again, if this was left to the Athenians to decide.
For this reason during the Ionian Revolt, which I will briefly discuss in the next section, he decided to join the Persians and return to Athens as a victor with the Persian army and navy.
The Old Bouleuterion, about 500 B.C. Model by Fetros Demetriades and Kostas Papoulias. Athens, Agora Museum. Excavations have revealed the foundations of a nearly square building (23.30 m. X 23.80 m.), with a cross wall dividing the structure into a main chamber and entrance vestibule. The main room probably had five supports, although the foundations for only three have been found. There is no trace of seats, but they might be restored as rectilinear tiers of wooden benches on three sides. (www.agathe.gr)
The Ionian Revolt (499-493 BC)
The Ionian Revolt is the precursor of the Greek-Persian Wars on Greek soil and sea.
By the time of Darius I, the Persian empire covered most of southwest Asia and Asia Minor, reaching as far as the easternmost boundaries of Europe. The Persians demanded tribute and respect from all they dominated. (7)
The Ionian revolt started at 499, when the Ionian cities of Minor Asia rebelled against the Persian King Darius.
The Athenians and Eretrians sent a task force of 25 triremes to Asia Minor to aid the revolt. (5)
From 499 to 494 there were a lot of campaigns without any decisive effect.
By 494, the Persian army and navy had regrouped and made straight for the rebellion epicentre at Miletus. (6)
Miletus Bay and Lade
The decisive confrontation took place at sea, off the small island of Lade. The Persians convinced the Samians to defect, leaving the Ionian navy exposed. Although the Ionians and their allies fought bravely, they lost to the Persians. This was the beginning of the end of the Ionian revolt.
During the revolt, the deposed tyrant of Athens Hippias, fled to the Persian Palace and became an “advisor” to the Persian King Darius I.
We will meet Hippias again in the battle of Marathon.
When it all ended, in 493, one thing was certain. Darius wanted revenge. The Athenians and Eretrians had to pay for their role in the Ionian Revolt.
The first Persian invasion of Greece (492 – 490 BC)
The Persians invaded Greece because they wanted to punish Athens and Eretria for their role in the Ionian Revolt. Darius I also wanted to expand his control of the Eastern Mediterranean.
There were two campaigns in the first Persian invasion of Greece.
The first in 492 under Mardonius, saw the Persians take over Thrace and Macedon. In 491, Darius sent ambassadors to all Greek Cities, demanding their submission. Almost all cities submitted, except Athens and Sparta. Darius knew that he had to proceed to the next campaign.
In 490, under the command of his nephew Artaphernes and the Median admiral Datis, this Persian armada allegedly consisted of 600 ships (troop and transport, provided and manned by subject allies) and an unspecified number of Persian infantry and cavalry, described by Herodotus as ‘powerful and well-equipped’.
Starting from the island of Naxos, the Persians captured a number of other Greek cities and islands en route, and besieged Eretria which succumbed after six days, weakened from within by party political strife and a pro-Persian faction which betrayed the city. A few days later, the Persians sailed for Attica, ‘in high spirits and confident’ (Herodotus). Marathon was selected as the best spot to invade, being closest to Eretria and also the most suitable for cavalry manoeuvres. At least, such was the advice of Hippias who was with this Persian force which he hoped would restore him to power. It was here that his father Pisistratus had landed in 546 for his successful bid for the tyranny in Athens. (1)
Greek hoplite and Persian warrior fighting each other. Depiction in ancient kylix. 5th c. B.C. National Archaelogical Museum, Athens
Liberty and Equality of civic rights are brave spirit stirring things, and they who, while under the yoke of a despot, had been no better men of war than any of their neighbours, as soon as they were free, became the foremost men of all. For each felt that in fighting for a free commonwealth, he fought for himself and whatever he took in hand he was willing to do the work thoroughly. Herodotus
Marathon – Tumulus
The Athenian Army
The army was managed by the polemarch, together with ten generals, one elected from each of the tribes. Starting with Kleisthenes, there were ten tribes in the Polis of Athens, therefore there were 10 generals, one elected from each tribe. In their attempt to ensure equality, the Athenians by the 5th century allotted most offices, even the highest archonships. Some positions, however, such as treasurers and the water commissioner, required “technical” knowledge and could not be left to the luck of the draw; these remained elective.
The generalships are the clearest example of this practice, of electing rather than allotting, and many of the leading statesmen of Athens held the position. Perikles, for instance, never served as eponymous archon-nominally the highest post in the state-but he was elected general of his tribe year after year, and from that position he guided Athenian affairs for decades.
The army was made of oplites (men bearing arms), who were Athenian citizens. All oplites were volunteers, and were providing for their arms and equipment. It was considered one of the highest honors to be able to fight for the Polis, as became known to the world with Pericles’ Funeral Oration.
At the time of the Marathon Battle, each tribe (phyle) nominated 1,000 oplites.
Contrary to the Athenian Army, the Persian Army consisted mostly of people who were conscripted from various occupied territories, including Ionia. Only the officers were Persians.
From a technical perspective, the Athenian Army had two major disadvantages compared to the Persian. The Athenians had no cavalry and no arch men.
Fragment of an Athenian (Attic) red-figure bell-krater (mixing bowl), Stb century B.C. H.: 0.12 7 m. Athens, Agora Museum P 15837. A warrior with helmet, sword in scabbard, spear and shield (device: snake) attacks an opponent to the left (now missing). (9)
The Battle
In overall charge of the Athenian Army was the War-Archon (polemarch), Callimachus, who had been elected by the whole citizen body. (5)
Initially there was a big disagreement among the generals. Should they go to Marathon and battle the Persians, or should they stay in Athens and protect the city?
The argument was won by Miltiades, who convinced Callimachus that they should battle the Persians in Marathon.
Militiades was one of the ten generals under the polemarch, but after the crucial decision was made, by the consensus of the generals he was placed in command. The win in Marathon is attributed to Miltiades’ genius by many historians.
The forces of the Athenians and the Plataeans totaled only 11,000 men (the column of the Plataeans was 1,000 strong) – the Persian force was perhaps 20-25,000 strong. (11)
While the two armies were facing each other on the Marathon plain, the Spartans were celebrating a period of peace and could not move to the aid of the Athenians before the pweriod was over, somewhere around the middle of August 490.
Therefore, it appears to have been to the benefit of the Athenians to wait.
We do not know who attacked first. But the battle bagan before the Spartans even left their city to march to Athens.
Early in the morning of the batle, the Persians followed Hippias’ advice and sent most of their ships and cavalry to Phaleron, the port of Athens. They thus thought that after the battle in Marathon they could easily capture the city that was not defended, as all armed units were in Marathon. This journey from Marathon to Phaleron would take 6 to 8 hours.
The Athenians were informed by Ionian soldiers in the Persian Army that the fleet had sailed and Miltiades decidd to attack.
The battle started at arounf 05:30 in the morning and it was over in three hours.
At the time of the battle commencing there was only around one mile (1.5 kilometres) separating both armies.
The formation of the Greek army was one with the central armed forces having soldiers in rank of 4 while the flanking forces had soldiers in rank of 8. This formation then either marched or ran (most likely marched) the distance to the Persian forces and stopped some 200 metres short of the Persian army.
At this point the Greek army went into a mad run to the enemy. Upon battle commencing the Greek middle ranks of four were pushed back slightly, but the flanks routed the Persians flanks that then fled back to their ships.
After the battle was over, and decidely won by the Athenians, Miltiades left a small contingent to guard the area so that the Persians would not be able to land again in Marathon, and with the rest of the Army marched back to Athens. They made it on time, so that when the PErsian navy arrived in Phaleron, they found the Athenian Army ready to welcome them.
After an assessment of the situation, the Persians decided to abort the mission to conquer Athens and sailed back to their land.
Hippias is said to have died at Lemnos, on the journey back “home”.
Herodotus on the Battle of Marathon (10)
112. The lines were drawn up, and the sacrifices were favorable; so the Athenians were permitted to charge, and they advanced on the Persians at a run. There was not less than eight stades in the no man’s-land between the two armies. The Persians, seeing them coming at a run, made ready to receive them; but they believed that the Athenians were possessed by some very desperate madness, seeing their small numbers and their running to meet their enemies without support of cavalry or archers. That was what the barbarians thought; but the Athenians, when they came to hand-to-hand fighting, fought right worthily. They were the first Greeks we know of to charge their enemy at a run and the first to face the sight of the Median dress and the men who wore it. For till then the Greeks were terrified even to hear the names of the Medes.
113. The fight at Marathon went on for a long time, and in the center the barbarians won, where the Persians themselves and the Sacae were stationed. At this point they won, and broke the Greeks, and pursued them inland. But on each wing the Athenians and the Plataeans were victorious, and, as they conquered, they let flee the part of the barbarian army they had routed, and, joining their two wings together, they fought the Persians who had broken their center; and then the Athenians won the day. As the Persians fled, the Greeks followed them, hacking at them, until they came to the sea. Then the Greeks called for fire and laid hold of the ships.
Helmet of Miltiades, Archaelogical Museum of Olympia, Greece
114. At this point of the struggle the polemarch [Callimachus] was killed, having proved himself a good man and true, and, of the generals, there died Stesilaus, son of Thrasylaus. And Cynegirus, the son of Euphorion, gripped with his hand the poop of one of the ships and had his hand chopped off with an axe and so died, and many renowned Athenians also.
115. In this fashion the Athenians captured seven of the ships. With the rest of the fleet, the barbarians, backing water, and taking from the island where they had left them the slaves from Eretria, rounded Cape Sunium, because they wished to get to Athens before the Athenians could reach it. There was a slander prevalent in Athens that they got this idea from a contrivance of the Alcmaeonidae, in accord with a covenant they had made with the Persians, showed a signal, the holding-up of a shield, for those barbarians who were on shipboard.
116. They rounded Sunium, all right; but the Athenians, rushing with all speed to defend their city, reached it first, before the barbarians came, and encamped, moving from one sanctuary of Heracles – the one at Marathon – to another, the one at Cynosarges. The barbarians anchored off Phalerum – for in those days that was the harbor of Athens – and, after riding at anchor there for a while, they sailed back, off to Asia.
117. In this battle of Marathon there died, of the barbarians, about six thousand four hundred men, and, of the Athenians, one hundred and ninety-two. Those were the numbers of the fallen on both sides. . . .
Marathon – Memorial Stele
Aeschylus and Cavafy
One of Marathon’s more renowned combatants, the ancient Greek playwright Aeschylus, who ultimately was recognized as the ‘Father of Tragedy’ purportedly composed his own epitaph. An indication of the battle’s significance is that he did not mention any of the great works in his distinguished oeuvre, only of his exploits on this highly venerated battlefield.
Beneath this stone lies Aeschylus, son of Euphorion, the Athenian,
who perished in the wheat-bearing land of Gela;
of his noble prowess the grove of Marathon can speak,
or the long-haired Persian who knows it well
Ο Αισχύλος, ο Αθηναίος γιός του Ευφορίωνα βρισκεται σε τουτο το μνημα
Έκλεισε τα μάτια στη Γέλα, την εύφορη σε δημητριακά
Τη δοκιμασμένη του γενναιότητα μαρτυρεί το δάσος του Μαραθώνα
και ο πυκνόμαλλος Μήδος που τη γνώρισε καλά
The inscription on his graveyard signifies according to Castoriadis (4) the primary importance of “belonging to the City”, of the solidarity that existed within the collective body of soldiers – citizens.
Castoriadis (4) also mentions the actor in Cavafy’s “The yound men of Sidon” who protests that the inscription on Aeschylus’ grave is unacceptable:
“…to set down for your memorial
merely that as an ordinary soldier, one of the herd,
you too fought against Datis and Artaphernis.”
(translation Edmund Keeley/Philip Sherrard)
Marathon Memorial Stele – Epigram by Simonides of Ceos
Marathon Memorial Stele – Epigram by Simonides of Ceos
Ἑλλήνων προμαχοῦντες Ἀθηναῖοι Μαραθῶνι
χρυσοφόρων Μήδων ἐστόρεσαν δύναμιν
Fighting in the forefront of the Hellenes, the Athenians at Marathon
Terroir is a concept almost untranslatable, combining soil, weather, region and notions of authenticity, of genuineness and particularity — of roots, and home — in contrast to globalized products designed to taste the same everywhere. (1)
Terroir was the theme of the family reunion dinner I hosted in Marathon, Greece.
Chicago, Illinois, USA
It is a long way from Chicago, Illinois to Marathon!
Marathon Beach, Attica, Greece
But my cousin and his family made it, and here we were, having dinner in the piazzetta of my hunting lodge.
I had some ideas about the menu, but my inner voice was telling me to take it easy and not rush to the market with a shopping list. Instead, I was going to get the best produce and ingredient I would find on the day.
What follows is the result of this process that never fails me.
Inevitably, the menu was based on the ingredients and produce of the terroir, comprising air, soil and sea.
Beetroot from Marathon, Greece
To start with the vegetables, Peter likes beetroot. So I got the best from Vassilis in Marathon.
Boiled beetroot
In addition to the bulb, which I boiled and peeled the skin off, I boiled the leaves. Both were served au naturel, with olive oil, salt, chopped garlic and lemon juice as optional dressing on the side. I particularly enjoy the beetroot with the chopped garlic, much more than with garlic dip (skordalia in Greek). It has a powerful taste, and I particularly like the contrast of the sweetness of the beetroot with the uncompromising sting of the garlic.
Boiled beetroot leaves
Vassilis is also producing zucchini, which are unbelievably tasty.
Zucchini from Marathon, Greece
So, zucchini were my second choice for a summer vegetable to enjoy on the table.
I boiled the zucchini and served them au naturel, with the dressing on the side. The taste of the zucchini without anything is so delicious, that sometimes I eat a couple without dressing, and only after I Add some olive oil, salt and lemon juice.
Green peas from Livanates, Greece
Moving on, I got some green peas from Livanates, a small town near Thebes.
Green peas with pomodori, onions, chilli pepper, and parseley
I cooked them with pomodori, onion, chilli pepper, and parsley.
Another one in the bag.
The next round of dishes comes from the sea.
Skate from Euboia, Greece.
My fishmonger is just fantastic, and one more he proved himself to be one.
Skate from Euboia, Greece
When he saw me he pointed at a skate on the icebed and said. “This is for you”.
I do not argue with statements like this.
Boiled skate with garlic, parseley, chilli pepper, olive oil, salt and lemon juice
I just obey. For my own good.
I boiled the fish, took the flesh off the bones and mixed it in a big bowl with chopped garlic, olive oil, a touch of salt, lemon juice and a little chilli pepper.
Shrimp from Kranidi, Greece
Then came the shrimp.
Fished from a bay east of Nafplion, they looked fantastic.
Grilled shrimp
I grilled them as they came off the sea. I add a few bay leaves on the side of the grill, for extra flavor.
Grilled shrimp
Last but not least, I got some super fresh sardines, because I love sardines, and Mary likes them too.
My fish monger gutted them and chopped their heads off. I sprinkled coarse salt over them and grilled them.
Grilled sardines
I always take them off while they are juicy and soft. My new touch was that I added some mint leaves on the side, to enhance the flavor. It worked.
The sardines were sweet, juicy and delicious.
And as Ferran Adria once said “fresh sardine is better than stale lobster”.
We had a great time, the only problem as Peter said was that there was not enough food.
Next time I will get more.
It was nice to see you guys, come again!
Kaletzi, near Marathon, view south
Sources
1. Vive le Terroir By STEVEN ERLANGER Published: August 31, 2013. The New York Times.
I live in a small village called Kaletzi (or Vothon) 2 km east of the artificial lake of Marathon, in the Attica region of Greece.
This post is about the lake and the dam that created it in the early 1930s.
The Marathon area is more or less 40 km away from Athens, the capital of Greece. Today approximately 5 million people live in the Athens greater metropolitan area. There is plenty of water to accomodate the needs of this population.
This was not the case at the end of the 19th century.
Water distribution in Athens, early 20th century
Athens did not have regular water supply. Water was distributed to the population over a network of fountains and taps that were most of the time dry (1).
After the 1922 Minor Asia defeat of Greece and the exchange of populations with Turkey, it was estimated that the population of Athens would double. Something had to be done about the water supply.
The situation changed when the Marathon articifial lake was created, after the construction of the Marathon dam.
The Marathon dam was constructed by an American firm, Ulen & Company.
At this point I have to introduce Henry C. Ulen, the key person behind the company.
Henry Ulen’s home in Indiana, USA
Henry Ulen was born in Lebanon, Indiana, USA, in 1861.
In 19th October 1912, The New York Times wrote in an article “Twenty five years ago (1887), Henry Ulen was a tramp.” (2)
In his own words, Ulen is quoted as saying “I was a pretty wild lad, and when I was sixteen, I run away from my home in Lebanon, Indiana.” (2)
But Henry Ulen was not destined to remain a tramp. He became a businessman, and a banker.
Marathon dam – construction
Ulen & Co. was incorporated under the laws of the State of Delaware on the 15 February 1922. (3) At the time Ulen had signed contracts to build water and sanitation facilities and railroad lines in South America. The newly incorporated company would finance and carry out the construction of these projects. In 1929 principal stockholders in the firm were American International Corporation, organized in 1915; Field, Globe and Company (a banking concern run by Marshall Field (son of the Marshall Field retail magnate)); Stone and Webster, one of the largest engineering contracting companies in the world; and Ulen Contracting Corp.(4)
Ulen & Co,. did not do business only in South America. In 1924, Ulen began work on water and sewer projects in ten Polish cities.(4)
Marathon dam – construction
On December 1924, after a restricted public tender, the Greek Government, and the Bank of Athens sign a contract with Ulen & Co. to build the Marathon dam and the pipeline to transfer the water to a water treatment facility in the Galatsi neighbourhood of Athens.. The project would be financed by issuing bonds worth a total of 10 million US dollars. A new entity was incorporated, the “Public Water Company of Athens Piraeus and Suburbs, with two shareholders. Bank of Athens (today the National Bank of Greece) had 50% of the shares and Ulen & Co. had the other 50%. The new entity would have the right to operate the water facilities it would build for a minimum of 22 years. Ulen got out by selling its shares to the National Bank of Greece in 1974. In article 22 of the relevant contract, it was stated that water would be priced in a way that would cover the new entity’s costs and profits.
Marathon dam – Plaque
Ulen & Co. also signed another contract with the Bank of Piraeus in order to incorporate the Greek Water Company (Ελληνική Εταιρεία Υδάτων ΑΕ). The company became the owner of the water distribution network of Athens, and the Municipality of Athens had from now on to pay the newly established company for the supply of water.
In 1928 Ulen & Co. landed a huge project in Persia to construct 800 miles of railroad from the capital of Teheran to the Persian Gulf. (4)
In 1931an Indiana magazine reported thatUlen and Co. was the “largest engineering and contracting corporation in the world” with millions of dollars in contracts each year.(4)
Marathon Lake
The foundation stone for the Marathon dam was laid in October 1927 by Prime Minister Alexandros Zaimis; Venizelos was also present at the ceremony. (5)
The dam was completed in 1929 and solved the water supply problem of Athens.
Marathon Dam
The dam is a 54 m (177 ft) tall, 285 m (935 ft) long gravity dam with a crest width of 4.5 m (15 ft) and base width of 28 m (92 ft). (5)
The dam’s face and visible structure were also covered in the same Pentelikon marble that was used to construct the Parthenon. (5)
Exit to Athens
The dam would serve as the primary water supply for Athens until 1959, when water was pumped from Yliki lake.(5)
Human relationships are diverse. But they can age like good red wine. This is what was circling in my mind the other day, after three dear internet friends had left Marathon.
We spent some wonderful time together, meeting in person for the first time after some four years of internet-relating.
The three friends are in alphabetical order: “J”, a writer and journalist. “K”, a professional in a vitally important industry. “N”, an engineer in one of the most important sectors of the economy.
“J” is Greek, but lives abroad. The fact that she was in Athens gave us the opportunity to meet! Unusually, she brought with her a book written by another author, because she liked it and as she said “I do not like to give my books”.
We started with an incredible appetizer: “K” created miniature “dolma” (stuffed parcels) with vineleafs, accompanied by a light but tasty sauce.
This is not a dish, it is a handcrafted artifact.
The miniature size ensures that this is not suitable for the “stuff your mouth” enthusiasts. It requires contemplation, careful observation of the physical object, prior to its consumption.
While caressing it in the mouth, it unleashes steadily and slowly the wonderful but restrained flavours of the vineleafs and the minced meat with rice stuffing.
Although I liked the sauce, I preferred to enjoy the “dolma” as a parcel of restrained joy and beauty.
“K” surprised me I must confess, because she is a very successful professional with a full schedule and a wonderful family. I never doubted the cooking talent, but the fact that she invested so much time in preparing the dish, is something I will never forget.
My fishmonger gave me some relatives of the red mullet, called “koutsomoura” in Greek. They were tiny, and straight out of the sea.
Before cooking them, I placed them in a water solution of coarse sea salt for one hour.
I fried and served them whole, without gutting them. No lemon, no salt.
I confess that I ate the whole thing, bones and the rest. Incredible sensation.
A cocktail of the flavours of the sea.
Para-singing Sinead: “Nofish compares to you”
My butcher supplied me with two legs of lamb, weighing three kilos in total.
I rubbed some coarse sea salt over the flesh, stuffed it with rosemary and two chilly peppers and roasted it in the oven.
The meat was lean and tasty, with firm texture, but not tough. I noted something rare for a lamb, there was no “greasy” aftertaste.
It was accompanied by stuffed aubergines baked in the oven, a variation of the “Imam Bayildi” recipe.
Sweet, tasty, but restrained, the aubergine developed a taste that lasted long and accompanied in an ideal way the robustness of the lamb’s flesh.
What a pair!!!
With the “dolma” and the fish we enjoyed a bottle of Torricella 2008 by Barone Ricasoli. A mighty chardonnay of 14 degrees, with a kick that can counter even red meat, exhibited amazing smoothness.
Wwith the meat and the aubergines, a Catalan red from Priorat, Embruix 2003 by Vall Llach, a Grenache blend, gave a memorable boost to the taste of the food, and helped me maintain the memory of it.
The concluding part was the sweet part, that started with sour yogurt made of lamb’s milk served with caramelized figs (with their skin).
A treat from the island of Andros, small pastries made with almond paste. gave a more firm texture to the sweet part.
We concluded with sweet custard pie, called “galaktompoureko” in Greek, a treat kindly brought to the team by “N”.
The intense pleasures of the food and drink were marvelously enveloped by the smoke emanating from Upmann puritos.
“N” was also the one the steal the show at the end, when she gave to each one of us a gift to remember our meeting.
“In certain places, at certain hours, gazing at the sea is dangerous.
It is what looking at a woman sometimes is.”
Victor Hugo
“I looked at Pauline and asked her if she felt she had the courage to bear the pounding brilliance of the sun and the strength to walk on the sand”
Honore de Balzac
“I was nearly sixteen when I met Simone, a girl my own age, at the beach in X. Our families being distantly related, we quickly grew intimate.”
Georges Batailles
“I am most useful when I am not needed”
My personal self
“what is in life that is not an enigma riddle?
isn’t life itself a riddle enigma”
Nikos Eggonopoulos
“Like all texts, the beach has an author – not, admittedly, a named individual, but a historically determined set of community practices that have produced material objects or signs.”
John Fiske
“The sea washes away and cleanses every human stain”
Euripides, Iphigenia in Tauris
Notes: 1.The phrase in the title is quoted by Roland Barthes as being “Gidean”, ie belonging to Andre Gide.
2. I took the photographs in Marathon Beach, Attica, Greece, in mid September 2012.
I continue to be in a “breaking sea wave” mood, and there is no better place to have lunch when you are in this mood than the beach itself, especially when the tables are less than one meter away from the breaking wave!
There was a nothern wind of medium strength, and the wave was breaking indeed!
The fresh wind comes from the Aegean, passing from the Southern tip of Evoia.
This wind has a cleansing effect on me.
It strips away all the mumbo-jumbo that clutters my Being and helps me see into my true (authentic) nature.
The breaking sea wave is my satori catalyst.
Unfortunately this glimpse into the true me does not last for very long.
However, I consider myself fortunate that it lasts even for a few seconds.
In any case, having achieved the “satori” state, I had to go for the unadulterated, pure taste of the fish.
The colorful salad that came as a prelude, acted as an evangelist for the main course.
A fresh sea bass, grilled to perfection.
Words fail me.
In addition to the subtle aroma of the sea, I was deeply absorbed by the gelatinous texture of the moist flesh.
The more fresh the flesh, the higher the gelatine effect.
Absolutely delicious!
But I must confess that a thought crossed my mind.
Given the quality of the fish, how would it be to have half of it served raw by Mizutani, and the other half grilled?
For the time being I will stay with the thought stuck in my mind. It may be a while before Mizutani visits Marathon.
Fresh grapes, cut a minute ago from the vines providing the very welcome shade, took away the aromas of the sea and brought Dionyssus to the table.
After the storm, comes the calm and peace and the sun!
Having witnessed a brilliant 1 1/2 rainbow the evening before, today was the day for the return of the sun and a minimalistic meal al fresco.
Fresh oregano
The air was oozing with the aromas of the wet earth and the flowers and plants.
Rosemary
I always grill the beef cuts with only a sprinkle f olive oil, but I could not resist the temptation of placing them on a bed of fresh oregano, rosemary and bay leaves.
After the steaks have rested for a couple of hours, it is time to grill them.
Please note that I do not put anything on the meat, other than olive oil.
On the sides of the charcoals I place some branches of bay leaves. They moderate the heat and they give a wonderful aroma.
Fresh spinach salad and 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon from Cava Petas
On the table a fresh spinach salad was waiting patiently.
The wine I selected was a 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon made by my high school friend from Rhodes, Tassos Petas.
The contrast between the brown and the red is always inviting.
As the crust on the inside is formed, the inside remains juicy.
Provided the fire is strong enough, but not too strong.
I serve the meat medium rare.
And by the bones, a bit more rare.
Salt and pepper are added by the guests at their discretion.
I want to congratulate Tassos Petas for creating a wonderful wine. Six years after it was made and bottled, the wine had a full body, and a robust but not overwhelming bouquet. Well done Tasso!
Matthias Gruenewald, Die Stuppacher MdonnaTiziano: Salome con la testa di S. Giovanni Battista
16th – 17th century
Caravaggio, San Giovanni Battista
18th century
San Francisco Church, Salvador, Bahia, BrasilInside the Church of San Francisco in Salvador
19th century
Cezanne, Large Pine and Red EarthDegas, The Millinery Shop
20th century and beyond
Nolde, Hermit on TreeFreud's Couch, The Freud Museum, London, EnglandHelmut NewtonMaria Adair, Instalacao AmbientalElaine Roberts, Lotus FlowerVenice - my photoAnselm Kiefer, Salt of the EarthBoy - my photoThomas Schutte, Efficiency MenNaoussa, Paros, Greece - my photoLefkes, Paros, Greece - my photoMarpissa, Paros, Greece - my photoThe Earth of Marathon, Attica, Greece - my photoT.S. Eliot - Four Quartets, East Coker, III
Happy New Year!!!
P.S. This came as a result of rediscovering X’s letter with the extensive quotation from Eliot’s poem “Four Quartets”. The hand written page is hers.
Among other things, I have recently moved out of the metropolitan area of Athens to the hills overlooking Marathon, some 40 kilometers away from the center of Athens. The arson fire that devastated the area in 2009 has left its marks on the landscape, a stark reminder that the worst enemy of Greece are the Greeks themselves!
After settling in, I invited the “closed” circle to come over and have lunch “al fresco”, in the open fresh air.
As the weather is still good, with temperatures reaching 21 degrees Centigrade, the cooking was done outside as well. Charcoals provided the much needed fire.
I start with the aubergines, or eggplants, which I can eat all the time, every time. I got them from a farmer who is down the road from where I am. I cut them in thick slices and put them in salted watr for one hour. The slices must be thick because they will be grilled and we do not want them to be burned and dried, but soft and juicy, albeit with a carbonated crust.
The pork chops came from the shoulder of the animal, in order to have the necessary marbling. I always prepare the meat by placing it in a mild solution of sea salt and herbs. After two hours the meat is juicier, its color lighter, and it tastes a lot better! If you have not done it before, try it now. With pork! It also works wonders with chicken.
Finally, the “Gardoumbes”, lamb’s intestines and sweetbreads on a stick, I got from a local butcher who promised me that they were fresh and local. He even showed me a bag with some intestines that he was taking home after work.
(Χορδήν έτρωγαν οι αρχαίοι Έλληνες, χορδούνιν οι Βυζαντινοί, γαρδούμπα οι Νεοέλληνες)
We now get to the very serious business of the grill. The aubergines need just a coat of olive oil in order not to stick to the grill base. Frequent turns ensure that the surface will be only marginally “burned”. There is a very sensitive balance between the brown and the black of the surface, so be careful!
The pork chops also require a coating of olive oil in order for them not to stick on the mesh. The surface must be golden brown and the inside juicy and tender.
I serve the chops on a bed of finely chopped garlic. The combination of the charcoal flavour with the garlic is simply unbeatable. I do the same with the eggplants, adding a bit of vinegar or lemon.
Finally, the “gardoumbes” take a lot of time to cook, and the fire must be relatively mild, otherwise the outside will be dry and the inside uncooked.
All in all, a lunch that honoured the Greek pastoral tradition with pork and lamb, the two animals that have supported the inhabitants of the south Balkan area for centuries.
