Restaurante Rekondo – San Sebastian, Basque Country

This is a restaurant in “my” neighborhood in San Sebastian. It is on the steep narrow road that takes you to Monte Igueldo, where rests with the most spectacular view of the Concha Bay the Monte Igueldo Hotel (my house in San Sebastian).

It offers classical Basque cuisine and has a fantastic wine list, more than 100,000 labels are on offer at prices you think you are dreaming with your eyes open.

The clientele is at this time of the year (February) locals who want to enjoy good local food and excellent wine. In addition to the restaurant, there is a separate area for drinking wine.

Thi sis not a fancy restaurant, but the locals in San Sebastian are a demanding lot. So here we have a delicious amuse, fried vegetables and a cheese croquette.

The first dish is artichokes with fresh duck liver. The hollow area of the cylinder has been filled with a light bearnaise sauce. The liver is just divine, it melts in the mouth, full of discrete sweet flavors and juices. The texture is smooth and it surrenders to the slightest movement of the tongue. The artichokes full of gentle acidity, dressed in the light bitterness of its flesh. The sauce acts as a universal agent of redemption, smooths out the contrasting tastes and united we all go to heaven!

The following dish is an act in extreme discretion, as it is the cheeks (kokotxas in Basque) of hake (merluza in Spanish) lightly cooked in olive oil and parsley. The discretion is required when cooking the sensitive velvety flesh as it may disintegrate and break into pieces. thankfully this did not happen in my plate, the cheeks were perfect, the taste of the sea rushing into the mouth cavity, just as the rough waves down the cliff crush against the rocks. The gelatinous pieces had released their gelatin in the sauce, which was balanced and delicious.

The best way to end this meal was a plateau of cheese from the land.  I will never learn the names, but I believe that the Basque country produces some of the best cheeses in the world.

Visit to “La Brecha” Fishmarket, Donostia, San Sebastian

 
This is a report on a short and late visit to the fishmarket of “La Brecha” in Donostia, San Sebastian. I went there around 1130 hrs by which time most of the seaffod selling stalls were closed! 
The market is large and houses also meats, game and vegetables.
 
Congrio
Congrio
Besugo - Sea Bream
Besugo – Sea Bream

One of the signs of freshness in the squid is the light grey – brown colour of its skin. When it starts turning rosy the freshness is gone.

The squid is not only fresh, but according to the seller it has been caught on hook, not on the nets. As a reult, it costs 50% more than the “ordinary” catch.
Chipiron (detail)
Chipiron (detail)
Cigala (detail)
Cigala (detail)
Carrillera Rape - Monkfish's Cheeks
Carrillera Rape - Monkfish
 One of my favourite dishes in the Basque country, and wherever else I can find them: hake and cod cheeks. The famous “kokotxas!”. Here we also have monkfish cheeks.
Unbelievable instensity of subtle flavour, as long as you know how to cook them! They are so delicate that I always prefer to cook them in very low fire, in order to preserve the flavours and the texture.
Kokotxa Bacalao - Cod's Cheeks
Kokotxa Bacalao - Cod
 
Percebe (detail)
Percebe (detail)
 This is one of the many Spanish mysteries I have not resolved yet.
I have read the stories about extracting them from the rocks, seen the videos, but have not tasted them yet.
Sapito Negro
Sapito Negro
 I am not sure about the translation of this one, is it “catfish”. Whatever it is, it is sold with is liver sticking out. Which means that there must be a dish with it in the Basque country.
I need to do some investigation on this one!
 
Merluza - Hake
Merluza - Hake
 Another of my favourites, the aetherial “merluza”.
Navajas - Razor Clams (detail)
Navajas - Razor Clams (detail)Not ot mention the razor clams.Seller

 

Lubina - Sea bass
Lubina - Sea bass
Rockfish
Rockfish