By the breaking wave: Tavern “Ta Kymata” in New Epidavros, Greece (Παρα θιν’ αλος: Ταβερνα “Τα Κυματα” Νεα Επιδαυρος, Ελλας)

I continue to be in the “breaking wave” mood, in spite of the fact that the first autumn rain drops pelted the dry soil since yesterday.

Three and a alf years ago I wrote about Nikos Varverakis’ tavern in New Epidavros.

Today I return to find the same values and, fresh seafood, fresh as ever, and cooked with respect to Nature.

Epidavros, Asclepeion

It is only natural to visit Nea Epidavros (a small village 20 km northeast of Palea Epidavros) and Nikos Varverakis’ tavern after a visit to the Theater and the Asclepeion in Palea Epidavros.

The first thing I asked for was the octopus. I remembered that last time I had tasted it simmered in wine and it was delicious.

Octopus cooked in wine

I was not disappointed. First of all, the octopus was small, which means fished locally. Second, the head was “dirty”, which means untouched, with all the delights of the sea left intact.

This is the reason why seafood is better consumed fresh. Can you imagine eating a frozen octopus with a “dirty” head? I cannot.

Octopus – detail

However, it is not enough to have a really fresh small octopus. Cooking it is a real challenge, as it can be so easily destroyed.

Nikos is a master in simmering the octopus in wine until it reaches perfection. The sauce was so good, that whatever was left I ate with the fish!

Vlita

The greens that accompanied the fish were vlita, boiled to perfection, served with real olive oil.

One of the most abused greens, vlita, when fresh and young is so tender that it is usually overboiled and destroyed, losing its colour to a murky muddy green-grey.

Not in Nikos’ tavern. Silky leafs, melting in your mouth, with tasty olive oil that dressed them adequately to the extent that no lemon was needed.

Fried cod

Now to the fish. Nikos recommended – and of course I accepted – fried cod.

Cod fished in the local waters is a small fish, nothing compared to the 5-10 kg fish of the Atlantic.

It is tasty, has very few bones, but it has to be super fresh, otherwise it is no good.

Not to mention the frying. The oil has to be “fresh” because the flavor of the flesh is very subtle. A reused oil can spoil a perfectly good fish.

Not in Nikos’ tavern.

The cod was fried to perfection, and it was so fresh that I could literally see the gelatin flowing out of the fish.

Needless to say, I will – one day – return.

“Except for the times of suffering, as of fear, I would think that the worst moments are those of pleasure because the hope for them and the memory of them, which occupy the rest of our lives, are better and much more pleasant than the pleasures themselves.”

Memorable sayings of Filippo Ottonieri, Giacomo Leopardi

“Niko’s Tavern in New Epidavros – Η Ταβερνα του Νικου στην Νεα Επιδαυρο

Στη Νεα Επιδαυρο, εκει ακριβως που τελειωνει ο δρομος, φατσα στο λιμανακι για τα αλιευτικα, υπαρχει η ταβερνα του Νικου. Το επισημο ονομα ειναι “το κυμα”, αλλα ολι τον ξερουν με το ονομα του, απο την εποχη που εδω και χρονια, οταν η περιοχη ηταν μονο κτηματα και τιποτε αλλο, ο παππους Νικος ανοιξε αυτο το μαγαζακι.

In the small community of Nea Epidavros, where the road ends and you arrive at the small fishing port, you can find the tavern of Nikos. Its official name is “To Kima”, bit everyone knows it by the name of its proprietor, Nikos. The tavvern goes three generations back, to the grandfather of Nikos, who started it when there was practically no one in the area, but oranges and lemons. 

 

Αποψη προς το λιμανακι των αλιευτικων
Αποψη προς το λιμανακι των αλιευτικων - The small fishing port

Η τοποθεσια ειναι ησυχη, ακομη και νταλα καλοκαιρι, ποσο περισσοτερο σημερα, 25 Μαρτιου. Καθεσαι στα τραπεζακια που εχει εξω και ακους τα πουλακια να τραγουδουν, και το κυμα να σκαει πεντε μετρα παρακατω.

The area is very quite, even during the summer, let alone today, the 25th March. You sit down, 5 meters from the sea, and you listen to the concert of the birds and the sounds of the sea.

 

Η ταβερνα του Νικου - Niko's tavern
Η ταβερνα του Νικου - Niko's tavern

 Στην περιπτωση του Νικου θα μπορουσε να ισχυσει οτι πουλαει τοποθεσια και μονο. Οχι ομως! Ιδου οι αποδειξεις.

With such an advantage, Nikos could sell only “location”. However, this is not the case. Here is the proof.

 

Βρουβες
Βρουβες - Greens

Ειχα απειρο καιρο να φαω βρουβες. Και ομως, ο Νικος τις εχει και τις σερβιρει βρασμενες στην εντελεια, λαχταριστες, με ελαιολαδο που παραγει στο κτημα του. Δεν υπαρχει ωραιοτερος τροπος να ξεκινησεις το γευμα απο αυτη την πικρη και μεταξενια γευση που κοντραρει με το λεμονι.

It was a long time ago when I last tasted the greens called “vrouves” in Greek. They are bitter and silky soft, when cooked properly, and go very well with lemon and olive oil. There is no better way to start a meal. They were divine!

 

Χταποδι ξυδατο - Octopus with vinegar
Χταποδι ξυδατο - Octopus with vinegar

Ακολουθησε το υπεροχο μαγειρευτο χταποδακι που λοιωνει στο στομα και σε πλημμυριζει με τα αρωματα του.

The octopus that followed was cooked in its own juice with a touch of salt and vinegar. Exquisite taste and texture, this dish alone deserves the visit!

 

Σαφριδι
Σαφριδι - Safridi

Το ψητο σαφριδι που ηρθε στη συνεχεια ηταν μια αποθεωση της θαλασσας, γεματο αρωματα και νοστιμια.

Safridi is a surface fish that is considered to be second rate. It arrived grilled to perfection, and it was fresh as the daisies in the nearby field.

 

Μπαρμπουνια στη σχαρα
Μπαρμπουνια στη σχαρα - Grilled red mullets

Κλεισαμε με μπαρμπουνια στη σχαρα, μια πολυ επικινδυνη αποπειρα, αν λαβει κανεις υποψη οτι το μπαρμπουνι ειναι πολ ευαισθητο και σχετικα μικρο ψαρι, οποτε μπορει να καει, να διαμελισθει, και εν γενει να ταλαιπωρηθει στη σχαρα στα χερια ενος μετριου ψηστη.  Στο Νικο ομως το ψησιμο ηταν στην εντελεια, η σαρκα ηταν ζουμερη και σφιχτη, και τα αρωματα εκαναν τις γατες της γειτονιας να στησουν τρελλο χορο.

We concluded the lunch with grilled barbounia  (red mullets). they were perfectly grilled and full of taste. The flesh was firm and jiucy.  

 

Η παραλια
Η παραλια - The Beach

Αξιζει λοιπον να παρεις το αυτοκινητο και να ταξιδεψεις τα 120 χιλιομετρα απο την Αθηνα προς τη Νεα Επιδαυρο, οι ευωδιες και η γαληνη του μερους σε ανταμοιβει. Οσο για τον λογο “αξια προς τιμη” μιλαμε για υψηλα μεγεθη! 

In the context of a visit to the ancient theater of Epidavros, providing you can do a retour, come to Nikos for lunch. You will not regret it.