A meat lover’s paradise in Illinois, USA: Ream’s Elburn Market

Chicago, a poem by Carl Sandburg (January 6, 1878 – July 22, 1967)
Chicago, a poem by Carl Sandburg (January 6, 1878 – July 22, 1967)

I have written in the past about “Antica Macelleria Cecchini” in Panzano, Tuscany, where my good friend Dario Cecchini transforms butchering into the poetry of every living.

I like meat markets, I like butcher shops.

It is not only the products but the atmosphere.

Going west to Elburn
Driving west to Elburn

Today I want to share a totally different experience in a meat lover’s paradise in Illinois, USA: Ream’s Elburn Market.

Elburn is a small town, some 60 miles west of Chicago, in the middle of Illinois fields.

Ream’s Elburn Market is a family meat market that attracts meatlovers from the Chicago and suburbs area, also known as Chicagoland.

Randy Ream, (right) owner of Ream’s Meat Market, with his son, Joel (Elburn Herald, 2011)
Randy Ream, (right) owner of Ream’s Meat Market, with his son, Joel (Elburn Herald, 2011)

Lynn Meredith, of the Elburn Tribune, wrote in her April 2011 article:

“Ream’s Meat Market keeps on bringing home the bacon when it comes to making Elburn a destination for Chicagoland carnivores in search of the best in meats and sausages. Ream’s recently made the list of “Best Chicagoland Places to Eat,” by the LTH Forum, a Chicago-based culinary chat site whose 9,000 members make it their business to identify small, out-of-the-way eateries and resources for all things food.”

Ream's Elburn Market (Photo Credit: Bruce's 08 Daily Photo Blog)
Ream’s Elburn Market (Photo Credit: Bruce’s 08 Daily Photo Blog)

As you enter the store you are impressed by the awards on the walls, and some cans of lard from older days.

The meats, sausages, jerkies, smoked meats, fresh meats, and other products inside the store are more than a blog article can cover.

lard_awards

A lot more!

“I like to call it the shotgun approach,” Ream explains. “When you walk in the door, you are overwhelmed by so many meat selections that you don’t know where to go first.” (Source: Upbeat in Elburn, by Steve Krut)

By necessity, I will confine myself to some representative selections, starting with sausages.

I could not resist to start with the tailgater brats with bacon and blue cheese.

Tailgate parties are a staple of US food culture and fun.

Bacon and Blue Cheese Tailgater Brats
Bacon and Blue Cheese Tailgater Brats

In addition to the US style sausages, there are a lot of European origin, like the Hungarian style sausage.

Hungarian Sausage
Hungarian Sausage

No sausage tray would be complete without a white sausage from Bavaria.

True to their calling, the Ream family produce one of the best weisswursts outside Bavaria.

We prepared them with sauerkraut and they were delicious!

Munich White Sausage
Munich White Sausage

Italy has very strong presence in the US culinary scene. Here are some Mild Italian Sausages.

Mild Italian Sausage
Mild Italian Sausage

I conclude the sausage section with another American sausage: Jalapeno and cheese.

I wish I could have tasted them all on the spot, but I couldn’t!

Jalapeno and cheese stix
Jalapeno and cheese stix

Moving on to the smoked products, I would like to start with the salmon.

I bought some and was handsomly rewarded. It was juicy, moist and with a subtle smoky flavor.

Smoked Salmon
Smoked Salmon

Bacon is next.

Dry cured bacon
Dry cured bacon

Dry cured bacon and Hungarian style.

Hungarian dry cured bacon
Hungarian dry cured bacon

The bacon was so good, I cooked it for breakfast in a “Bacon and eggplant omelette”.

Bacon and eggplant omelette
Bacon and eggplant omelette

Jerkies are one of the reasons why Ream’s Elburn Market is so famous.

Jerky is lean meat that has been trimmed of fat, cut into strips, and then dried to prevent spoilage. Normally, this drying includes the addition of salt, to prevent bacteria from developing on the meat before sufficient moisture has been removed. The word “jerky” is derived from the Spanish word charqui which is from the Quechua word ch’arki. which means to burn (meat). All that is needed to produce basic “jerky” is a low-temperature drying method, and salt to inhibit bacterial growth.”   (Source: Wikipedia).

Buffalo Jerky
Buffalo Jerky

In principle, jerky is similar to the Turkish and Middle-Eastern pastirma, although pastirma is not sliced in advance, but only before it is consumed.

California heat beef  jerky.

California heat beef jerky
California heat beef jerky

And – of course – Elburner beef jerky.

“In the competitive meats arena, Ream hasn’t excelled…he’s exceeded. He has directed Elburn Market products to grand championship awards in 15 separate product classes at the American Cured Meat Championships (ACMC), something never done by any processor. His small shop has garnered an incredible 235 awards in cured meat competition!”  ((Source: Upbeat in Elburn, by Steve Krut)

Elburner beef jerky
Elburner beef jerky

I now want to refer specifically to the cooked ham, which we bought and enjoyed on multiple occasions.

Cooked Ham
Cooked Ham

In the US the prime part of leg of pork, the ham, is sold also cooked. You do need to add anything to it, just warm it gently, slice and serve. In case of a high quality product, like the one we bought at Ream’s, you do want to taste the meat, rather than all the spices, sauses, and so on.

Sliced ham
Sliced ham

This top quality ham is moist, sweet, tender, it melts in your mouth and leaves a very subtle aftertaste.

It is time to have a look at the fresh meats on offer.

I start with my all time favourite, the T-bone steak. Look at the marbling of the meat!

T-bone beef steak
T-bone beef steak

More steaks are on offer. The rib eye comes next.

Rib eye beef steak
Rib eye beef steak

And a bone-in rib eye, thick and marbled to perfection. I perfect the bone-in because of the added flavor and the thickness of the cut.

Gourmet rib eye
Gourmet bone in rib eye

I get hungry only by looking at the beautiful display.

Boneless pot roast (beef)
Boneless pot roast (beef)

There are also some prepared “composite” meat dishes, to cook and serve.

I start with a beautiful beef roulade, or pinwheel in American English.

“The word roulade originates from the French word “rouler” meaning “to roll”  Typically, a roulade is a European dish consisting of a slice of meat rolled around a filling, such as cheese, vegetables, or other meats. A roulade, like a braised dish, is often browned then covered with wine or stock and cooked. Such a roulade is commonly secured with a toothpick, metal skewer or a piece of string. The roulade is then sliced into rounds and served.”  (Source: Wikipedia).

Popeye Pinwheel
Popeye Pinwheel

The popeye pinwheel has – of course spinach.

The classic bacon wrapped pork filet is another temptation.

Bacon wrapped pork filet
Bacon wrapped pork filet

And another pinwheel, less colorful.

Beef flank steak pinwheel
Beef flank steak pinwheel

The emperor of meat cuts. the beef tenderloin concludes this representative sample of goods in Ream’s Elburn Market.

Beef tenderloin
Beef tenderloin

But may be not. As I was approaching the cash register, I saw the absolute delicacy, smoked porks ears. But they were not meant for human consumption. the sign clearly said: “For Dogs”. May be next time I will have my dog with me.

Pig's ears for dogs
Pig’s ears for dogs

Greek Summer Lunch: Beetroots, Tamarix, and Eggplants "au gratin" – Ελληνικο Καλοκαιρινο Μεσημεριανο Γευμα: παντζαρια, αρμυρικια, παπουτσακια μελιτζανας ω γκρατεν

Πρελουδιο

Salt Cedar (Tamarix) in Greece - Αρμυρικια εις την Ελλαδα

Εχει καλοκαιριασει για τα καλα και εν τω μεσω της τεραστιας κρισης που μαστιζει την Ελλαδα, η επιβιωση απαιτει την καλοπεραση.

Και εν προκειμενω η καλοπεραση ερχεται με την μορφη και το περιεχομενο ενος καλοκαιρινου γευματος που γεμιζει την κοιλια και αγαλλιαζει την καρδια.

“Καλα θα φαμε, καλα θα πιουμε, και νηστικοι θα κοιμηθουμε”.

Ολα αυτα ερχονται σε ενα πολυ λογικο κοστος, κι ετσι επιβεβαιωνεται το ρητο που λεει “οι μεγαλες αξιες δεν ειναι υποχρεωτικα χρηματικες”. Και ευτυχως βεβαια που εχομε και την επιβεβαιωση τετοιων ρητων, αλλεως πεως πως θα επιβιωσομεν;

Παμε λοιπον.

Το γευμα περιλαμβανει δυο πιατα βραστα, παντζαρια και αρμυρικια, και ενα πιατο στο φουρνο, μελιτζανες παπουτσακια, σε μια εκδοση που ονομαζω “σπορ”, με την εννοια οτι ειναι ελαφρυτερη εκδοση και σε βαζει πιο γρηγορα στο νοημα. Το ποιο ειναι το νοημα δεν θα το αναλυσομε εδω, γιατι δεν θα τελειωσουμε γρηγορα.

Beetroot – Παντζαρια

Ανεκαθεν μου αρεσαν τα παντζαρια.

Ασε που ειναι και υγιεινα. Ενας χυμος απο παντζαρια συνισταται γενικως… Εν προκειμενω ακολουθησα μινιμαλιστικη προσεγγγιση. Τα εβρασα, τα ξεφλουδισα, και τα εκοψα σε ροδελες. Μετα λιγο αλατι, λιγο ξυδι, και ψιλοκομμενο σκορδο. Μια ωρα χαλαρωση και σερβιρισμα με ελαιολαδο.

Η απολαυση της γευσης και της υφης ειναι απεριγραπτη. Αρχιζω απο την υφη. Το παντζαρι δεν πρεπει να ειναι διαλυμενο, βρασμενο εως αποσυνθεσεως. Αντιθετα πρεπει να “βασταει”, να διατηρει δηλαδη την υφη του και την λεβεντια του. Τα λεβεντικα παντζαρια ειναι και τα καλυτερα. Καθως θρυμματιζεται η σαρκα του παντζαριου, αναδυονται τα αρωματα απο το σκορδο και το ξυδι, που δενουνε με το ελαιολαδο και ερχεται απο πανω, σαν σε θρονο, η γλυκυτητα του παντζαριου, που ομως ειναι μετριασμενη απο ολα τα αλλα και ετσι καλοδεχτη και εξισορροπουσα τα οξινα. Θελω κι αλλο!

Salt Cedar (Tamarix) – Αρμυρικια

Salt Cedar or tamarix or tamarisk is a plant that grows near the sea in Greece, but it can be found all around the Mediterranean.

Τα αρμυρικια καλλιεργουνται σημερα στην Ατικη, αλλα παρολα αυτα ειναι εξαιρετικα ευγευστα. Πρεπει βεβαια να τα βρασεις σωστα, προκειμενου να διατηρησουν και το χρωμα τους, το βαθυ πρασινο, αλλα και την υφη, που ειναι και ενα απο τα μεγαλα τους προσοντα. Τα αρμυρικια δεν θελουν καθαρισμα. Λιγο κοψιμο θελει το κοτσνι, αλλα οχι πολυ. Τα καλα αρμυρικια εχουν τρυφερωτατο κοτσανι. Μετα το βρασιμο αναπαυση, και σερβιρισμα με λιγο λαδι, λιγο αλατι και λεμονι.

Η απολαυση στο αρμυρικι ειναι και συνδυασμος υφης και διακριτικης γευσης. Και παλι υπερκρισιμο ειναι το βρασιμο. Με το σωστο βρασιμο, το αρμυρικι γινεται τρυφερο αλλα δεν διαλυεται, οποτε με το που το μασας αισθανεσαι εκατομμυρια μικρες εκρηξεις να επιτελουνται, μια και τα τρυγερωτατα φυλλα που ειναι σαν ακιδες θρυμματιζονται  εκτοξευοντας χυμους και τα διακριτικα αρωματα του αρμυρικιου. Ο συνδυασμος με το ελαιολαδο και το λεμονι ειναι εξαιρετικος, αλλα θελει πολυ προσοχη για να μην καλυφθει η λεπτη και διακριτικη γευση του.

Μελιτζανες παπουτσακια σπορ

Τα παπουτσακια ειναι απο τα αγαπημενα μου πιατα. Σημερα σερβιρω την εκδοση “σπορ”, που σημαινει οτι δεν εχω μπεσαμελ αλλα μονο μιγμα τυριων. Ειμαι δηλαδη κοντα σε μια εκδοση “ω γκρατεν”.

Αρχικα κοβω τις φλασκες σε δυο συμμετρικα μισα, και τα σκλαιζω με ενα μαχαιρι, για να δημιουργηθει μια κοιλοτητα. Ολη την ψυχα την βαζω με κρεμμυδια στο τηγανι για να μαραθει, ενω τα μισα μπαινουν στο γκριλ για να μαλακωσουν, χωρις να ψηθουν εντελως. Στα μισα δεν βαζω τιποτε.

Αφου μαραθουν τα κρεμμυδια και οι ψυχες προσθετω μισο – μισο χοιρινο και μοσχαρισιο κιμα και αφηνω να φυγουν τα πολλα υγρα.

Συνεχιζω προσθετοντας μικρα τοματακια ολοκληρα απο κονσερβα ΚΥΚΝΟΣ, που ειναι η αγαπημενη και αξιοπιστη μαρκα σε προιοντα τοματας.

Μολις φυγουν τα πολλα ζουμακια και τα ντοματακια αρχισουν να διαλυονται, στρωνω το μιγμα στα μισα της μελιτζανας, που εχουν μαλακωσει χωρις να ψηθουν ολοτελα.

Τελειωνω με την επιστρωση απο τριμμενο τυρι. Εν προκειμενω εχω εμενταλ και γραβιερα.

Ολοταχως στον πολυ καυτο φουρνο των 250 βαθμων Κελσιου, και ψησιμο 20 λεπτα για να λοιωσουν τα τυρια και να ενσωματωθουν τα υγρα με την μελιτζανα.

Σερβιρω με ψιλοκομμενο κολιανδρο και βασιλικο.

Το οξινο της ντοματας δενει με την γλυκυτητα των τυριων και αγκαλιαζουν τον κυμα που ειναι γευστικος και ολιγον καυετερος (αν θελετε βαζετε λιγο καυτερη πιπερια η μπουκοβο). Η διακριτικη παρουσια της μελιτζανας ολοκληρωνει τη γευστικη αρμονια.

Καλη ορεξη και ας παει και το παληαμπελο!

Festive Menu: Take One

Due to the extreme pressure exerted on me by the atelier members, I present today “Take One” of the festive menu, to get the dialog and exchange of ideas started. This is a conceptual presentation, there are no real photos of the dishes.

First Dish

The first dish is the opening of the experience. It has to be adventourus, but at the same time familiar, so it does not have to fight the distance.

My choice is trout tartar, served with pears marinated in Greek Tsipouro (grappa) and leaks confit.  

Main Dish

The main dish is always a big gamble, as you have ot meet and excced the expectations that were (hopefully) created from the first dish.

I propose a Millefeuille of roast pork leg with chestnuts, prunes, green and red gabbage and craked wheat.

The leafs are paper thin slices of the leg, the cream is made of all the ingredients listed above. It is served with caramelized carrots and potatoes. 

Desert

My favourite is a Chocolate and Chestnut charlotte.

This is it for now folks, the ball is over to you!

Timbale a la Greque

servedToday I have prepared a dish that belongs to the family of Italian timbale, but I have changed the ingredients to a considerable degree. The overall concept remains the same. The timbale is a big stuffed drum. What has inside varies, as well as its skin. zucchini

I decided to use eggplants and zucchini in the stuffing, combined with penne pasta and ground pork meat. Here it goes.

I got the round zucchinis that I like very much and fantastic bell shaped eggplants and fried them in olive oil.

detail_meat_startFor the meat I got a nice chunk from the upper leg, that had some fat in it. I then browned the meat with onions, one red and one green pepper.After browning, I added tomato paste and two chopped fresh tomatoes.

detail_meatI let the meat to simmer in low heat for one hour.

eggplants_zucchini_detailAfter frying the vegetables, I let them rest on paper, while I prepare the dough for the skin of the timbale. I made it like a rich bread, in order to adsorb all the juices of the vegetables and the meat without becoming excessively soft.

In parallel, I prepare the penne “al dente” so that they do not disintegrate when they cook inside the timbale.

We are now ready to integrate and compose.

Lay the dough on a bell shaped baking dish and work it with your hand so that it covers most of the surface of the dish. I added olive oil and sesame seeds in the dish prior to spreading the dough.

step-1Add the vegetables and slices of parmesan cheese.

step-2Add the penne.

step-3Add the meat and make sure you have at least 2 centimeters to the rim of the dish, as the dough will expand in baking.

ready-to-bakeAdd a layer of dough at the top, spread egg all over to give it a nice golden color, and bake in the oven for one hour, in 250 degrees centigrade. Stick a nice in the timbale a couple if times, to let the steam out.

baked-and-servedOnce baked, let it rest for 15 minutes, then serve on a round dish. A very sharp knife is required when serving.

grand_detailLet the timbale warm your heart with its harmony of smells and tastes!

Beef and Pork Stew with dry white beans

Today’s  dish is a stew with dry white beans.

The meat in the stew is beef and pork. pork

I dice the meat and brown it with olive oil.

pork_beef_sauteedIn the same pan I then put sliced green peppers, onions, parsley and celery.

peppersI put the peppers alone at first, and then add the other ingredients.

peppers_onions_celery_parslWhile all of this is taking place, dry white beans from the northern city of Drama are boiling in water.

white_beansWhen the peppers, and onions are soft, I add the meat and half a bottle of good red wine, some slat, pepper and cover the pot. The meat must now cook in medium to low heat for at least one hour.

meat_readyWhile the meat is slowly cooking, I put half of the beans in a mixer and puree them. I spread  them in a baking tray with olive oil.

pureeOn top I add the rest of the beans, and spread them evenly. I add a lot of juice from the stew and bake for one hour in 200 degrees centigrade. To avoid dehydration of the beans, in the first thirty minutes cover the tray with aluminum foil.

beans_readyTo serve, cut a rectangle of the beans and serve the meat next to it.

servedWhat I really like about the dish is the combination of textures in the beans, accompanied by the aromas of the meat stew. IMG_1871

The particular beans I used in the dish are strong in flavor, almost to the point of the bean paste tasting like chestnuts! IMG_1870To accompany the dish, as a matter of fact to announce it, I prepared zucchini rolls with pastirma. Easy peasyFry sliced zucchini in olive oil and dry in kitchen paper.

zucchiniSlice pastirma very thinly. To avoid overpowering the zucchini with the pastirma, cut the slices very thin and short.

pastirmaTake a zucchini slice, add some pastirma, about one third of its length should be covered by the pastirma slice, roll it up and let it rest on the serving dish.

appetizerThese little bites are dynamite! I was quite surprised by the harmonious collaboration of the gentle soft and almost unspoken zucchini with the explosive pastirma!

And do not forget a good red wine to accompany the dish, I would recommend a Xinomavro from Northern Greece.

Salve!

Mercat de la Boqueria, Barcelona: Κρεατα και Πουλερικα

Αυτη η αναρτηση ειναι η πρωτη μιας σειρας που αφορα τη φημισμενη αγορα Μποκερια της Βαρκελωνης. Το πρωτο μερος αφορα κρεατα και  πουλερικα.

Η επισκεψη στην Μποκερια ειναι μια εμπειρια που ξεπερναει την αγορα τροφων, μιας και μπορεις να φας, να διασκεδασεις χαζευοντας το αμετρητο πληθος και βεβαια να δεις τα εκλεκτα τροφιμα που προσφερονται. Το μονο προβλημα ειναι οτι στο τελος παντα θελω να αγορασω και να παω σπιτι να μαγειρεψω!

 

The Entrance
Η Εισοδος

Με τνην εισοδο στην αγορα, αντικριζω τα γουρουνακια γαλακτος, σα να κοιμουνται.

Piglets
Γαλακτος

Εκτος απο το εκλεκτο αυτο προιον, υπαρχουν και τα ταπεινοτερα, οπως ποδαρακια και αυτακια, και κοκκαλακια με ιχνος κρεατος επανω. Στην αγορα υπαρχει κατι για ολα τα βαλαντια! .

Trotters and Ears
Ποδαρακια και Αυτακια

Και ενα κατσικακι γαλακτος!

Κατσικακι
Κατσικακι

Και τι θα ηταν η αγορα χωρις το χαρουμενο αυτο προσωπο!

Meat Seller
Meat Seller

Και ολιγον κυνηγι μας προεκυψε λιγο παρακατω, λαγουδακια και κατι πουλακια που δεν τα γνωριζω. Το διχτυ στο βαθος ειναι γεματο υπεροχα σαλιγκαρια.

Rabbit, Pigeon, ...
Λαγοι και Πτηνα

 Κια μια και ο λογος για πτηνα, παρε κοσμε κοτοπουλα, φραγκοκοτες, ορτυκια, και αλλα!

Κοτοπουλα, φραγκοκοτες και αλλα
Κοτοπουλα, φραγκοκοτες και αλλα

 Και μπολικα κουνελια αραδιασμενα ετοιμα προς μαγειρεμα!

Conelio
Κουνελια

Πεναμε στα πιο βαρεια κρεατα και δη το βοδινα, και αρχιζω με τις γλωσσες!

Tongues
Γλωσσες

Και οχι μονο! Υπεροχα νεφρα για μαριναρισμα και μαγειρεμα, αμελετητα για τους μερακληδες, η αγορα τα εχει ολα! 

Kidneys, Testicles,...
Νεφρακια, αμελετητα

Στο βαθος θα δειτε πνεμονια και πατσα!

Morcilles
Λουκανικα

Ερχομαστε τωρα στα υπεροχα λουκανικα, με κορυφαια για μενα αυτα στο κεντρο, που ειναι με αιμα και πλαισιωνονται απο πικαντικα λεπτα και χοντρα λουκανικα. Δεν υπεισερχομαι σε ονομασιες, γιατι στην Καταλωνια (οπως και σε καθε περιοχη της Ισπανιας) οι ονομασιες ειναι αφθονες!

Χοσελιτο
Χοσελιτο

 Και για να μη ξεχνιομαστε, στη χωρα του χαμον, οπως λεγεται το αντιστοιχο προσιουτο στην Ισπανια, κυριαρχει ο παμμεγιστος Χοσελιτο, ο αρχοντας της παγκοσμιας αγορας, που η Γκραν Ρεσερβα τιμαται περιπου 100 ευρω το κιλο. Το συνιστω ανεπιφυλακτα, σερβιρεται στα καλα εστιατορια σαν ορντεβρ.

Παπιες
Παπιες

 Οι Παπιες σε καθε ειδους συσκευασια δεν θα μπορουσαν να λειπουν, αλλωστε η γειτνιαση με τη νοτια γαλλια το επιβαλλει!

Beef wrapped in lardo
Μοσχαρι τυλιγμενο σε λαρδι

Και μια αλλη διασταση, εκεινη της απολαυσης ανευ οριων! Μοσχαρι τυλιγμενο σε λαρδι για ψησιμο στο φουρνο!

Γλυκαδια
Γλυκαδια

Κοιταξτε αυτα τα λαχταριστα μοσχαρισια γλυκαδια!

Πικαντικο σαλαμι
Πικαντικο σαλαμι

Στην αγορα υπαρχουν και πολα προιοντα απο μικρο- παραγωγους. Αυτο που βλεπετε στη φωτογραφια ειναι ενα πικαντικο σαλαμι που σπαει κοκκαλα!

Λεω εδω να σταματησω, σας εδωσα μια εικονα για τα κρεατα και τα πουλερικα, και επεται η συνεχεια!

Red Meats of Italy – A selection – Part 1

All of a sudden, I decided to post some images of red meats and red meat dishes from Italy. I call this Part 1 as I expect there will be more in the future.

I start by stating that I am not a fan of red meat. In an average place I usually do not order red meat. I prefer to eat vegetables, or chicken, or even better, a nice sald with cheese!

But I am a fan of exceptional red meat and its by products, flavours and colours and juices.

And this is what I will try to post here, the red meat beyond, creations that take the primary material and tranform it to something that is and is not the original. Transformation and transfiguration.

All the items included in thepost are”classics”, ie they have been around for a lond time and are here to stay. No meteorites, no short-lived stars, only treats that cut across the years.

Culatello di Zimbello
Culatello di Zibello

I start with the Emperor of the Italian cured meats: Culatello di Zibello!

Storage Area
Storage Area

This is the storage area where Miriam Leonardi (owner of “Trattoria La Buca” in the small town of Zimbello) keeps her treasures.

Slicing machine
Slicing machine

When I saw this machine I thought that it only befits the marvelous culatello to have such a beauty for slicing it.

Salumi di Cremona
Salame artigianale tipico di Cremona
I tasted this beauty in “Caffe la Crepa”, in the small town of Isola Dovarese. It was juicy, almost sweet, and its texture allowed it to melt in the mouth. Apparently Cremona does not only produce the finest violins in the world! Soppressata
Soppressata
Soppressata
Dekicious “Soppressata” from the “il Latini” restaurant in Florence.
Filetto di maiale affumicato
Filetto di maiale affumicato
Smoked pork filet from “Locanda San Lorenzo”, in the small town of Puos d’Alpago, near Belluno, Veneto.
Lardo di colonnato con zucca
Lardo di Mora Romagnola con zucca
An excellent treat, from “Trattoria Amerigo dal 1934” in the small town of Savigno, near Bologna. Lardo is transparent, sweet, and it melts in your mouth leaving a sense of olive oil! The zucca is the well know paumpkin, that here is grainy, tasty, and providdes support to the heavenly taste of the lardo!
Selection of antipasti
Selection of antipasti

 

A selection of antipasti from the “Vino e Camino” Ristorante in Bracciano, near Rome.

 

Steak Tartere di Vitello
Steak Tartare di Vitello
This tartare steak  comes from the wineshop of Pallatino in Roma. It is served without egg and the other regular trimmings. Just lemon, pecorino and light greens. The meat taste was clear, fresh and the firm texture of it made the pleasure complete. I was afraid that it would be a rather boring dish, given the absence of taste enhancing materials that accompany a Steak Tartar. I was wrong! Top quality veal does not need anything more than just some lemon to cut the protein surge, and a light cheese to provide a salty stimulus to the palate.

 

Display of meats in Dario Cecchini's Macelleria
Display of meats in Dario Cecchini's Macelleria
This is part of the diaply in Dario Cecchini’s Macelleria in the small town of Panzano, near Firenze.
Renaissance Salame
Renaissance Salame
Dario’s shop is full of surprises, including this one!

 

Ramerino in culo
Ramerino in culo
Marinated beef cubes (it could be called beef sushi) served with rosemary, from the restaurant of Dario Cecchini, Solociccia, although Dario does not call it a restaurant, but the home of a butcher!
Bolitti
Bolitti
A selection of boiled meats with vegetable and herb sauces, prepared by the team of Amerigo dal 1934.
Porcini e fegato di vitello
Porcini e fegato di vitello
A divine combination, porcini mushrooms with tender ultra sweet calf’s liver, from “dal Pescatore”, in the Park of River Oglio.
Fiocco di Manzo
Fiocco di Manzo
Roast beef from Dario Cecchini’s restaurant.
Roast Pork
Roast Pork
Roast pork from Dario Cecchini’s Antica Macelleria in Panzano.
Animelle co i funghi
Animelle co i funghi

 

Sweetbreads with porcini mushrooms offered by Osteria di San Cesario, near Rome.

 

Bistecca Fiornetina
Bistecca Fiornetina
Glorious juicy bistecca from “il Latini” in Firenze.
Capello da prete di manzo
Capello da prete di manzo
Cappello da prete di manzo al barbera e polenta gialla belgrano! This is the full name of the dish offered by “dal Pescatore”.

Guggenheim Bilbao, Jatetxea, Restaurante

Suspended Figure, Munoz
Suspended Figure, Munoz

Update 2021: The restaurant is no longer in operation inside the museum building. A new restaurant “Neua Guggenheim Bilbao” has pened and operates in an adjacent area of the museum vomplex.

I visited the Bilbao Guggenheim Museum in July 2008 and had lunch in the restaurant. It is a restaurant much acclaimed and I was quite curious to see, smell, and taste the food.

The Chef is Josean Martínez Alija, a disciple of Martín Berasategui’s.

Before lunch, I had the opportunity to visit the brilliant exhibition of works by the Spanish Artist Juan Munoz.

Back in the restaurant, I opted for the gastronomic menu with the rather overwhelming title “Creation, Freedom and Tendencies”.

Having in mind that this is a title more suitable for a Ph.D. in Philosophy, I waited for the amuse bouche.

It turned out to be “tempura” peppers, which I liked very much. They were sweet, tender and very fresh.

"Tempura" Green Peppers

The first dish of the menu was “Stewed tapioca pearls”. I was told that this is a simulation of a traditional Basque dish which has humbler ingredients. The dish was perfect, the pearls had absorbed the flavours of the stew and I had the sense of the pearls exploding in my mouth, releasing their flavours. Imaginative and pleasing.

Stewed tapioca pearls
Stewed tapioca pearls

The “Roasted red endives” followed. This was a “minimal” dish and I have mixed feelings about it. I like endives, but at the end of the day an endive by itself is not the most pleasing dish. Although it was full of flavour, this was not enough to constitue a dish in a gastronomic menu.

Roasted Red Endives
Roasted Red Endives

Another roasted vegetable was next: “Roasted aubergine flavoured with “makil goxo”. I have the same comments as in the endives dish. Yes, the aubergine was very tender and juicy, but there was no complexity of flavours, no synthesis worth mentioning.

Roasted aubergine
Roasted aubergine

The next dish was also roasted: “Roasted fish of the day”. The “minimalism” of the previous dishes continued with the hake. A good piece of fresh fish is not a gastronomic dish.

Roasted fish of the day
Roasted fish of the day

The last dish was the “Iberian pork stew”, and it was a very good stew. But only a stew.

Iberian pork stew
Iberian pork stew

All in all, I was rather diappointed. In my view gastronomy requires synthesis of ingredients, tastes (and traditions in some cases), an abstract concept is not enough.

Andra Mari Restaurant, Galdakao, near Bilbao

I found Andra Mari in the Red Michelin Guide and visited it last year (2007). I was positively impressed to the extent that I thought I just was lucky and everything turned out well during my visit. This year I visited Andra Mari again, wondering what the experience would be. I will try to describe it in this post.

The veranda
The veranda

The weathwer was gorgeous and I had the pleasure of eating al fresco in the veranda. Galdakao is a small town 10 km southeast of Bilbao, and is very easy to reach.

The view from the veranda is peaceful, and the air aviation enthusiasts can see all the airplanes as they approach the Bilbao airport, without suffering any noise effects, as they are still at a high altitude (I would say over 500 meters).

The view south
The view south

I had the “Andra Mari” Menu, which is the showpiece of the chef’s artistry and skill.

The start was “foie gras terrine with Pedro Jimenez Jelly”.

Foie Gras Terrine
Foie Gras Terrine

The second dish was “Sardine Fillets with roasted peppers and parmesan cheese”.

Sardine Fillets
Sardine Fillets

An apotheosis of colours followed, with the title “Grilled Summer Vegetables”.

Grilled Summer Vegetables
Grilled Summer Vegetables

The grilled lobster that followed was served with “Amaranto” risotto, which is in fact a cereal popular in South America.

Grilled Lobster
Grilled Lobster

What followed was my favourite dish a year ago. A cottage egg served with octopus. The richness of the egg combined with the octopus flavours will remain unforgettable.

Egg with grilled octopus
Egg with grilled octopus

The tuna loin that came next was a step down from the platform of excitement that the lobster and the octopus had built. I would nopt mind if it weren’t there at all.

Red Tuna Loin with Mango and Apple
Red Tuna Loin with Mango and Apple

To conclude they served a dish with Iberian pork cuts. The taste of the meat was superb, but the dish lacked the finesse and creative intensity of the previous dishes (excluding the tuna). I could live without it and have more lobster with the South American Cereal.

Iberian Pork
Iberian Pork

Deserts came next, starting with a junket with cherries.

Junket with Cherries
Junket with Cherries

To wrap things up they served a sponge cake with pears.

Sponge Cake with Peaches
Sponge Cake with Peaches

Overall, the experience was of the highest level, and in terms of value for money it tops the Basque Charts.

Andra MAri is now formly on my standard Basque Itinerary and for a very good reason. It serves excellent food at a very reasonable price!