Festive Lunch – 1st January 2015 – Marathon, Attica, Greece

Today I rejoice the passage of time, culminating in the coming of the new year.

tree
It was a chilly day with wet snow, but it felt nice

 

There is no better way to do that but a festive lunch, where food and drinks will have almost equal weight and pleasure potential.

menu 1 January 2015

Festive Lunch Table
Festive Lunch Table

The menu draws from Germany, Georgia, Italy and France. Greece adds the traditional cake to finish the meal, and the salad.

Bruns Raucheraal - Smoked Eel
Bruns Raucheraal – Smoked Eel

Smoked eel is one of the delicacies I will never stop craving for.

My best man, Manolis, brought me a sealed package of two smoked eels produced by Aal-Bruns, a German specialist producer.

As if I knew, I cut the eel in small pieces.

Pairing the smoked eel with a wine was a challenge.

But not for very long.

Smoked Eel
Smoked Eel

The gentle knight from Alsace came through the door and brought the solution with him. Two bottles of wine I had purchased in the Metzger winery at the beginning of the 21st century.

Metzger, Gewurztraminer Pflinz 1997
Metzger, Gewurztraminer Pflinz 1997

A late vintage of Gewurztraminer Pflinz from Alsace, produced in 1997!

I opened the first bottle, full of curiosity: Could a white wine have lasted for almost 18 years?

As you can see in the photo, the golden color of the wine gave the first answer. But this is nothing compared to the taste. Heaven on Earth!

The almost oily wine with its sublime sweetness coats the mouth and prepares it for the infusion with the smoky taste of the eel that literally melts in it. A marriage made in heaven.

Smoked Eel
Smoked Eel

I offered to my guests two options for tasting the eel. Both had as support a rectangle of whole grain bread, the first with a touch of butter on it, and the second with a spoonful of mashed pickled cabbage, beetroot, chilli pepper, celery and garlic. I personally enjoyed both, starting with the butter and then going to the pickled mix.

Needless to say, some pieces were enjoyed on their own. In the absolute magnificence of their existence. The taste is so powerful that only a small piece can be truly appreciated and enjoyed without the human being overwhelmed.

Georgian piroshki with minced beef
Georgian piroshki with minced beef

The second appetizer was a small piroshki with minced beef, a variation of a Georgian recipe.

It is smooth and spicy and tasty, while the wrapping is an ultra light and thin crepe.

The piroshki were prepared by a good friend.

Osso Bucco
Osso Bucco

The terrain is now open for the arrival of the main course, which is veal osso bucco with risotto.

I cooked the veal in a mix of carrots, celery, onions, garlic and tomatoes.

Risotto di Ossi
Risotto di Ossi

The abundant liquid of the mix I used in the risotto, which I prepared with Arborio rice from Ca Rossa.

The wine to accompany the main dish came from Toscana.

Ciacci Piccolomini di Aragona, Brunello di Montalcino, 1998
Ciacci Piccolomini di Aragona, Brunello di Montalcino, 1998

Brunello di Montalcino, 1998, produced by Ciacci Piccolomini d’ Aragona.

I had purchased both bottles in the winery’s shop near Montalcino, in Tuscany back in 2003.

The first bottle of the 16 year old wine was moderately ok, most likely due to cork problems. Drinkable, but not as rich and full as the second bottle, which gave to all great pleasure.

The risotto was the king of the main dish. It had rich flavor with considerable depth, without any of the elements overpowering the others.

The veal was tender, tasty and the rich sauce accompanied it in the best possible way.

At the end of the meal we shared the traditional “Vassilopitta”, a light cake made with mahlepi (mahlab) spice. Absolutely divine in its simplicity.

sea

Happy New Year!

 

 

Restaurant Cilantro, Arles, Provence, France

Today I continue with a restaurant review from Provence, the picturesque town of Arles.  I want to share with you my experience from the Restaurant Cilantro, a stone’s throw from the famous Roman Arena of the town.

Συνεχιζω σημερα το οδοιπορικο στην Προβηγγια, και την ομορφη πολη της Αρλ, με την επισκεψη μου στο Εστιατοριο Κολιανδρος που ειναι διπλα στην διασημη Ρωμαϊκη Αρενα της πολης.

IMG_0067

The young talented chef Jerome Laurent comes from 6 generations of professionals in the hospitality trades. In 2004, he has decided to open Cilantro in his home town of Arles.

Ο νεος και ταλαντουχος σεφ Ζερομ Λωραν προερχεται απο 6 γενιες επαγγελματιων σε ξενοδοχεια και εστιατορια. Το 2004 αποφασισε να ανοιξει στην γενεθλια πολη του Αρλ το εστιατοριο του.

entranceThis looks like a house entrance, and it is. The restaurant is located on the ground floor of Jerome’s family home.

Η εισοδος στο εστιατοριο, που στεγαζεται στο πατρικο σπιτι του σεφ.

The decor is minimal but quite pleasant, and the staff polite and effective.

amuse

Olive paste and chorizo to wet the appetite.

Παστα ελιας με σαλαμι πικαντικο

scallopsCaramelized scallops served in a foamy bath of aromatic stuff.

Χτενια καραμελωμενα σερβιρισμενα σε ενα αρωματικο αφρο απο βοτανα και μυρωδικα.

artichoke_creamArtichoke cream with black truffle.

Κρεμα αγγιναρας με μαυρη τρουφα.

sweetbreads And now we come to the revelation of the meal, the absolute creation of Nature and the Chef: ” Veal Sweetbreads with artichokes, black truffles and mashed potatoes”.

Το απολυτο αριστουργημα της βραδιας, μοσχαρισια γλυκαδια με αγγιναρες, πουρε πατατας και μαυρη τρουφα!

In my humble experience this dish is a masterpiece and in its divine simplicity it offers you clarity of textures and tastes that is unique!

Θεϊκη απλοτητα, απολυτη ευκρινεια γευσεων και υφης, το τελειο πιατο, μοναδικη εμπειρια.

mash

I would go back to Arles, only to taste again this dish!

Και μονο για να γευτω αυτο το πιατο, θα ξαναπαω στην Αρλ.

Thank you Jerome.

Ευχαριστω Ζερομ.

P.S. Date of visit: March 2009. At the time of the visit, the restaurant was recommended by the Michelin Red Guide as “one star”.

Veal Tongue with Spinach – Γλωσσα Μοσχαρισια με σπανακι και μαγιονεζα

This post concludes the veal trilogy that started with the mediterranean tartar, and continued with the cheeks.

As always, but even more so in the case of the tongue, the quality of the meat is the top critical success factor for the dish and your satisfaction.

Συνεχιζω την τριλογια του μοσχαριου, με το τελευταιο αρθρο αφιερωμενο στη γλωσσα. Τα προηγουμενα της τριλογιας αναφεροντουσαν στο ωμο μπιφτεκι και τα κοκκινιστα μαγουλα. Οπως παντα, αλλα εδω δεκα φορες περισσοτερο, η ποιοτητα του κρεατος ειναι ολα τα λεφτα. Η μαγειρικη απλα διαφυλασσει τα χαρακτηριστικα αυτα και τα αναδεικνυει.

The raw material
The raw material

I carefully cleaned the meat that surrounds the tongue and cooked it separately. In a deep pan I prepared a julienne of carots, celery and onions and immersed the tongue to cook.

Με κοφτερο και λεπτο μαχαιρι εκοψα τα κρεατακια που ειναι γυρω γυρω.

Ετοιμασα ψιλοκομμενα καροτα, σελιναο και κρεμμυδι σε ενα βαθυ τηγανι και εβαλα και τη γλωσσα να σιγοβρασει.

Braising in a julienne of vegetables
Braising in a julienne of vegetables

The cooking time is approximately 2 hours for a tongue that is slightly over one kilo. But I need to stress the importance of braising the food.

Χρειαζονται περιπου δυο ωρες σε πολυ χαμηλη φωτια, με σκεπασμενο το σκευος, για μια γλωσσα που ηταν λιγο παραπανω απο κιλο.

Baby spinach
Baby spinach

While the tongue was braising slowly, I blanched baby spinach.

Καθως η γλωσσα μαγειρευοτανε, ετοιμασα σπανακι τρυφερο για να το σερβιρω με τη γλωσσα. Ενα γρηγορο βαπτισμα σε καυτο νερο και εξω!

Sliced
Sliced

After the tongue is cooked, remove the skin and let it rest for 30 minutes. Then slice it and serve with the vegetables.

Μετα τις δυο ωρες, αφαιρω το δερμα απο την γλωσσα και την αφηνω να ηρεμησει για 30 λεπτα. Μετα την κοβω μετριες φετες και ειμαστε ετοιμοι για το τελευταιο βημα.

serveTongue with mayonnaise on a bed of baby spinachdI serve the tongue on a bed of baby spinach, topped with fresh home made mayonnaise that has a good deal of mustard in it.

Φτιαχνω ενα κρεββατακι με το σπανακι βαζω δυο κομματια γλωσσας αντικρυστα επναω στο σπανακι, λιγο καροτο στα πλαγια και πειχυνω με σπιτικια μαγιονεζα που εχει αρκετη μουσταρδα και δη πικαντικη.

Detail
Detail

Enjoy it with a cold glass of Chardonnay or Asyrtiko!

Ενα ποτηρι παγωμενο σαρντονε η ασυρτικο και ειμαστε στον ουρανο!

More recipes in the Panathinaeos recipes for pleasure!

Veal Cheeks Casserole

My good butcher Stathis has given me cheeks from veal and I rose to the occasion and cooked them for Sunday lunch. Here is how I didd it.

I marinate dthe meat in chianti, added onions, oregano, bay leaves, black pepper corns and coriander. I then cut the  meat in medium size pieces. Do not add any salt until the dish is cooked!

 

Cut in medium size pieces
Cut in medium size pieces

I browned the meat in olive oil and let it rest for a while before continuing.

 

Colour is taste!
Colour is taste!

While the meat was resting, I softened a lot of onions in the casserole, using as much of the marinade as possible (you do not want to make a soup!).

Soften the onions
Soften the onions

After ten minutes I added the meat, and thirty minutes later Iadded whole peeled tomatoes and tomato paste and let it cook in low heat for three hours.

 

After three hours the dish was ready, but ideally, it must rest for at least 12 hours before serving.  

 

The meat is ready to serve after three hours
The meat is ready to serve after three hours

The potatoes that acconpany the dish are prepared in two steps. In the first step, I kept the oil temperature relatively low, and I just let the potatoes “boil” in the oil. 

 

Potatoes - first step
Potatoes - first step

As you see in the picture, the potatoes look like boiled. Aftwer they rested for about 15 minutes, I proceede to the next step, where I fried them in high heat!

 

Fried potatoes - second step
Fried potatoes - second step

Finally, I warmed the meat and served.

 

Served (hot)
Served (hot)

What you see is what you get.

The meat is like melting gold (this is my imagination speaking, I do not usually swallow gold bars), full of flavours and juices. This is the peculiar feature of the cheeks that they become so tender and juicy!

 

Detail
Detail

As hor d ‘oeuvre I served jamon from the Basque Country, produced and cured by Pierre Oteiza. 

I buy it from the web, it is excellent value for money!

 

Pierre Oteiza - Jambon du Pays Basque
Pierre Oteiza - Jambon du Pays Basque

This dish requires excellent wine!  Ktima Gerovassiliou 2004 (Merlot and Syrah) performed in a stellar fashion.

 

The wine: Ktima Gerovassileiou 2004
The wine: Ktima Gerovassileiou 2004

Bon appetit!

Veal Tartar on a bed of spinach and green onions

This is a very risky dish, as it requires excellent ingredients, especially the best quality veal. It is my own adoption of veal tartar, so that I can use Mediterranean ingredients.

Lets start with the meat. I got top quality veal steaks from my butcher and cut out the bones, membranes and fat.

 

The veal and the mezzaluna
The veal and the mezzaluna

I cut the steak in pieces with the knife, but the rest is the job of the mezzaluna. Here is the result.

 

Minced meat
Minced meat

It is very important that you cut the meat with the mezzaluna, and not using the meat grinder. The taste and tenderness of the meat are unbelievable when you use the mezzaluna, and – of course – you have top quality meat.

The next step is to dress the meat with olive oil, balsamic vinegar condiment, olives and capers. Just add a pinch of sea salt, as the olives and the capres have quite a lot!

 

Balsamic vinegar condiment
Balsamic vinegar condiment

The balsamic vinegar condiment  I buy from Amerigo, a fantastic shop near Bologna (Savigno). the entrepreneur also owns a one-Michelin star restaurant in this sleepy town.

 

The meat mix is now ready to rest
The meat mix is now ready to rest

 After thoroughly mixing the meat with all the ingredients, leave it to rest for 30 minutes.

In the meantime, prepare the spinach and the onions. I was lucky to buy baby spinach and perfect green onions.

 

Baby spinach
Baby spinach

The spinach is so tender and fresh that you only need to simmer it for 5 minutes until it becomes soft. The onions take a little longer, so I put them in the pan first, with all the trimmings that I took out of the meat, to give extra flavour.

The last step is the assembly of the dish. I start by creating a bed of the spinach and onions. Leave the spinach to cool down, else it will cook the meat that is the next layer. And we dont want to do that!

 

Bed of spinach and onions
Bed of spinach and onions

The second layer is the meat mix.

 

The second layer is now on.
The second layer is now on.

Finally, put paper thin slices of smoked cheese – Metsovone – on top, to counterbalance the acid and meaty tastes of the dish.

 

Served
Served

The dish is divine! It is impossible to understand that you are eating raw meat and it literally melts in your mouth!

 

Detail
Detail

Enjoy it!

 

 

 

 

PS. Auguri a tutti gli amici Greci, Italiani, Tedesci….