Seafood Restaurant Marina, Potidaia, Halkidiki – Εστιατόριο Μαρίνα, Ποτίδαια, Χαλκιδική

I visited Marina restaurant one fine autumn afternoon, to have a sip of ouzo (maybe more) and some meze.  This is my brief recount of the experience. The article is in Greek.

Επισκέφθηκα το εστιατόριο “Μαρίνα” ένα όμορφο φθινοπωρινό μεσημέρι για ένα ποτήρι ούζο (ίσως και δύο) και θαλασσινούς μεζέδες.

Η εξυπηρέτηση εξαιρετική από την πρώτη στιγμή, τα πάντα πεντακάθαρα, τα τραπεζομάντηλα φρεσκοσιδερωμένα. Μια εικόνα αρχοντιάς, χωρίς περιττές πολυτέλειες.

sea_urchin_eggs
Sea Urchin Eggs in brine – Αυγά αχινού

Τα αυγά αχινού σκέτη ευωχία, και τα φρυγανισμένα ψωμάκια τέλεια συνοδεία.

kritamon_salad2
Fresh krtamon salad, with cherry tomatoes and white cheeseΣαλάτα με φρέσκο κρίταμο, ντοματίνια και μυζήθρα

Η σαλάτα με φρέσκο κρίταμο ήτανε μια ανάμικτη εμπειρία. Από τη μια μεριά η εξαιρετική ποιότητα του κρίταμου, από την άλλη όμως μια βαρετή και άσχετη πρόσμιξη άσπρης μαλακιάς μυζήθρας. Η μυζήθρα ήτανε τόσο σαρωτική, που δεν ακουγότανε ούτε η οξύτητα από τα ντοματίνια.

cured_anchovies2
Salt cured anchovies – Αλίπαστος γαύρος

Ο αλίπαστος γαύρος ήτανε εξαιρετικός ως προς την υφή και την φρεσκάδα, όμως το αλάτι είχε ξεπεράσει τα όρια που τιμούν την πρώτη ύλη. Το αλάτι είναι θανατηφόρο όπλο όσον αφορά την γεύση. Εν προκειμένω ο τίμιος και φρεσκότατος γαύρος υπέστη θλιβερό γευστικό θάνατο.

red_mullet_carpaccio3
Red mullet carpaccio – Μπαρμπούνι καρπάτσιο

Το μπαρμπούνι που ήρθε στη συνέχεια άξιζε πολλά, χωρίς όμως να αγγίζει την τελειότητα.  Η πρώτη ύλη εξαιρετική, τα αρτύματα συγκρατημένα, το ελαιόλαδο εξαιρετικό.

scallops2
Broiled scallops – Χτένια ψητά

Τα χτένια που ακολούθησαν ήταν το κορυφαίο πιάτο της ημέρας. Ψημένα στην εντέλεια, ολόφρεσκα, απλούστατα. Σχεδόν τέλεια. Κάθε φορά που γεύομαι τα χτένια του Αιγαίου δεν μπορώ να μην τα συγκρίνω με τα χτένια του Ατλαντικού. Η νοστιμιά σε αυτά τα μικρούλια κουφετάκια του Αιγαίου είναι απλά ασύγκριτη. Χρειάζεται όμως και η τέχνη του ψήστη, για να ψηθούν ακριβώς όσο πρέπει, ούτε δευτερόλεπτο περισσότερο, ή λιγότερο.

aubergine2
Baked aubergine – Ψητή μελιτζάνα

Η ψητή μελιτζάνα υποτίθεται ότι ήτανε καπνιστή, όμως δεν ίσχυε κάτι τέτοιο. Και η προσθήκη της λευκής μυζήθρας έκανε το πιάτο αυτό παντελώς άνοστο. Κρίμα.

Εν κατακλείδι, η “Μαρίνα” είναι ένα μαγαζί πάνω από τον μέσο όρο, με δυνατότητες να πάει πολύ ψηλότερα. Αρκεί να μην επαναπαυθεί – πριν την ώρα της – στις δάφνες της.

 

 

 

Telemachus Art Grill: A meat eater’s dream in Kifissia, near Athens, Greece

Telemachus was the son of Ulysses. George and Kostas Tsiligiris are the grandsons of Telemachus Tsiligiris, the best butcher the wealthy suburb of Kiffisia in the north of Athens has ever known. In their “Telemachus Art Grill”, located in the building of their grandfather’s shop, they serve excellent quality meat, expertly prepared and served.
During my visit I indlulged in offal, and bypassed the “standard” offerings like steak tartare and lamb kebab, leaving them for the next visit.
When I eat offal I have the urge for a nice fresh green salad that will counterbalance the intensity of the offal.

Nothing could better serve such a pupose than the rucola and grana salad that was served with pomegranate seeds.

The salad was accompanied by a delicious Greek white cheese, mastelo, grilled on charcoal.

The “kokoretsi” that followed was without any reservation the best I have tasted in my life to date, and I can tell you, I have tasted quite a few.

For the uninitiated, kokoretsi is an offal delicacy, grilled on a spit. It is a long cylinder, the center of which comprises lamb’s liver and lungs and sweetbreads. The core is surrounded by  a thin layer of fat to keep it moist and juicy, and an outer layer of lamb’s intestine.

First of all, it was juicy and moist, and served at the right temperature.

It was sweet and tender. The salt and pepper was just right, providing support to the bouquet of offal tastes, rather than dominating them.

The fat layer next tot he intestine was an absolute gastronomic marvel.

It had kidneys in it! First time I tasted kokoretsi with kidney!

Absolutely delicious!

I must confess I did not want anything more after the tasting of the kokoretsi. but as it happened, I had one. And it was, oddly enough, a delicacy I was thinking about a couple of days ago. Lamb kidneys on the grill.

Expertly cooked, pink on the inside, with just a touch of salt, pepper and oregano, these kidneys are the epitomy of an offal delicacy.

The wine that accompanied this delicious meal came from South Africa. It was a shiraz with strong body and deep bouquet.

The service is excellent.

Thank you George and Kostas for a delicious meal, and your authentic hospitality.

 

 

 

 

Top Gastronomic Destination in Greece: Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant in Mikrolimano, Piraeus

I visited Papaioannou’s Fish and Seafood Restaurant in Mikrolimano, Piraeus, on a busy Sunday lunch time. The maitre D informed us that due to the holidays the variety of dishes is not as wide as it usually is. This was a most welcome first sign of the attention the restaurant pays to the quality of its ingredients. What followed confirmed this in the most positive way. Papaioannou Restaurant is a top gastronomic destination in Greece.

Sea Urchin Eggs – Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Sea urchin eggs.We started with the eggs in their own natural juices and nothing else. No salt, no lemon, no olive oil. As it should be. As mother nature gave it to us.

The accompanying drink was ouzo. If you do not like ouzo, you may try tsipouro, or a dry white wine with high acidity, like asyrtico.

Red mullet sashimi. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Red mullet sashimi followed. It needed no dressing whatsoever. But eating an olive and a leaf of rocket after tasting the fish was sensational.

Cray fish tartare. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Crayfish tartare.This is by far the best crayfish dish I have ever tasted. You cannot imagine the sweetness, the kindnes of the flesh as it unleashes its flavours in the unuspecting and unprepared oral cavity. It is so captivating that it continues to unravel its magic until it has reached the lower depths of the oropharynx.

Fried baby cuttlefish. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Fried baby cuttlefish. The flesh melts in your mouth, while the crispy ink explodes in in millions of parcels of pleasure. Infinity as a sensation must be this bombardment of the taste buds by these agents of hedonism.

Grilled squid. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled squid sweet as sin cand tender as desire ame next. The chef had given it just a touch of olive oil for the grill, and a light sprinkle of salt. It needed nothing else. No lemon, no extra salt.

Grilled grouper. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled grouper.The flesh is moist, gelatinous, full of the aromas of the sea, soft yet firm. Eating in Papaioannou is not just an experience, it is an adventure. Dear reader, plase take a second to note that there is no dressing whatsoever on the fish, just the salt the chef put on it while on the grill. This is not an ommission, it is a deliberate act. No dresing is nedded! Because it will distort the gastronomi message, muffle the sounds of hedone emanating from the body and mind of the patron.

Grilled red mullet filet. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled red mullet filet.It must be very few people on this planet who can perfect the grilling of red mullet’s skin to a degree that it complements the juicy succulent flesh in a way that makes one believe in miracles. At the end of the day, metaphysics must have a physical grounding, and it might very well be this dish.

Fried red mullet filets. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Fried red mullet filet. The chef, George Papaioannou has a reputation for frying fish to perfection. He lived up to it. The filet of flesh was melting in the mouth, releasing all the flavours of the red mullet’s skin. And as always with fresh fish, a sweetness enveloped every sensation in the silky delusion of never ending pleasure.

Grilled sea bream. Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

Grilled sea bream. It was time to return to reality and the grilled sea bream pulled it through.

Grilled Mediterranean Slipper Lobster (Kolochtypa). Papaioannou Fish and Seafood Restaurant, Mikrolimano, Piraeus, Greece

The grilled mediterraneam slipper lobster (kolochtypa) ended the feast. This was an ode to the endless adventure of texture interweaved with flavour.

As I now recover from the flood of sensory stimuli that was mercilely unleashed against my cells I can say without any hesitation that Papaioannou is quite possibly the best fish and seafood restaurant in Greece today.

In addition to the food, service is top class. The team is professional, friendly and efficient.

The location in Mikrolimano is ideal for a long lunch. We spent something like 4 hours and enjoyed all variations of light on the sky and the sea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sushimou: a gastronomic jewel a stone’s throw from Syntagma Square in Athens

Sushimou is small. It only has a bench and stools around it. You need to reserve in advance in order to get in. And you better get in, otherwise you will not, dear Athenian or visitor from wherever, taste the delicious sashimi and nigiri that sushi chef Antonis Drakoularakos is preparing for you.

Sushimi Chef Antonis Drakoularakos, Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

This is exctly what I did.

I booked the “stools”, showed up on time, and then ordered “omakase”, which is the chef’s choice.

So let the journey begin.

Station 1: Sashimi

Sushimou: Sashimi – Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Station 2:  Bonito nigiri

Sushimou: Bonito nigiri, Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Station 3: Horse Mackerel (Safridi)

Sushimou: Horse Mackerel nigiri, Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Station 4: Crayfish (karavida)

Sushimou: Crayfish nigiri, Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Station 5: Red Mullet (Barbouni)

Sushimou: Red Mullet nigiri, Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Station 6: Tuna Belly (Otoro)

For some reason this marvel was not photographed.

Station 7: Sardine

Sushimou: Sardine nigiri, Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Station 8: Sea Urchin

Sushimou: Sea Urchin nigiri, Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Station 9: Eel

Sushimou: Eel nagiri, Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

Epilogue

Sushimou: Red Mullet nigiri, detail. Photo: Nikos Moropoulos

What a wonderful place to enjoy top quality sashimi and nigiri sushi!

Thank you Chef Antonis Drakoularakos!

 

Seafood in the Arabesque Restaurant of Jerusalem’s American Colony Hotel

David Dides is the Executive Chef of the Arabesque Restaurant in American Colony, a beautiful hotel in Jerusalem.  I visited the restaurant recently and enjoyed seafood in the middle of winter. David is very fond of the sea, having Greek roots.

trout
Sea trout tartar on a bed of cracked wheat, served with artichoke alla Judea

The first dish was a sea trout tartar, on a bed of cracked wheat, served with an ostrich’s egg, capers, fresh greens and fried artichoke, “alla Judea”. The trout was so sweet, it needed the capers to counter the flavor.  This was the case until I tasted the artichoke. It was a powerhouse of salty and acid flavors and when combined with the trout it lifted the dish to heights I could not have imagined. The cracked wheat offered the best neutral background to the symphony of flavors of the dish.

barbounia
Sultan ibrahim fillets on a risotto with saffron bed

The second dish was something tasty and extremely light. Red mullet fillets fried “tempura style” and served on a bed of a light risotto with saffron and gentle spices. Before I describe the dish, I would like to note that “red mullet” is known as “Sultan ibrahim” in the middle east, apparently because it was the Sultan’s favorite dish.    I may not be a Sultan (in my current incarnation) but I also like red mullets, and David’s dish is now one of my absolute favorites. First of all, the tempura was executed in a perfect way, making the fillets soft, juicy, delicious and light, very light. The risotto complemented the fillets in a subtle way, without overpowering the taste of the fish. Another interesting aspect  of the dish was the slices of fresh orange, which provided enough acidity to counter the “oily” touch of the tempura.

Thank you David, I will return.

 

 

Osteria da Fiore, Venice, Italy

In my visit to Venice back in October 2011 I had the opportunity to visit Osteria da Fiore, in San Polo.

Today I publish the delayed review, because the osteria is one of the best restaurants in Venice, and continues to carry with pride one Michelin Star.

Osteria da Fiore

The amuse bouche was crispy tiny shrimp (gamberetti) on a bed of white polenta. 

Amuse Bouche, Osteria Da Fiore

The first dish I tasted was a mixed raw seafood.

Carpaccio di tonno – Osteria da fiore

Misto crudo di carpaccio di tonno e scampi.

Scampi crudi - Osteria da Fiore

The Scampi were served on top of a creamy mix of fennel (finocchio) and fresh cheese.

Baccala mantecato – Osteria da fiore

The second dish I tasted was another appetizer, one of the trademarks of Venetian gastronomy: “Baccala  mantecato” (dried Atlantic cod, soaked, poached and whipped until mousse-like), served with bruschetta spiced with garlic.

Overall a perfect light lunch in a wonderful environment.

 

Osteria da Fiore, Venice, Italy

In my visit to Venice back in October 2011 I had the opportunity to visit Osteria da Fiore, in San Polo.

Today I publish the delayed review, because the osteria is one of the best restaurants in Venice, and continues to carry with pride one Michelin Star.

Osteria da Fiore

The amuse bouche was crispy tiny shrimp (gamberetti) on a bed of white polenta. 

Amuse Bouche, Osteria Da Fiore

The first dish I tasted was a mixed raw seafood.

Carpaccio di tonno – Osteria da fiore

Misto crudo di carpaccio di tonno e scampi.

Scampi crudi - Osteria da Fiore

The Scampi were served on top of a creamy mix of fennel (finocchio) and fresh cheese.

Baccala mantecato – Osteria da fiore

The second dish I tasted was another appetizer, one of the trademarks of Venetian gastronomy: “Baccala  mantecato” (dried Atlantic cod, soaked, poached and whipped until mousse-like), served with bruschetta spiced with garlic.

Overall a perfect light lunch in a wonderful environment.

 

Wilks Restaurant, Bristol upon Avon, United Kingdom

Bristol, UK
Bristol, UK

“Britain was a major player in the transatlantic slave trade. British ships carried 2,600,000 enslaved Africans in the 18th century to the Caribbean and the Americas. London was the leading British slaving port in the 17th century, with control over the trade until 1698. Bristol overtook London in the 1730s, and Liverpool overtook Bristol in the 1740s. ” (1)

I know, I know, I meant to write a restaurant review, and I cannot avoid becoming historical and all.

Aston Martin, Bristol UK
V8 Aston Martin Vantage

Driving a V8 Aston Martin Vantage, the trip to Bristol cannot be tiring. As a matter of fact, you don’t want it to end.

“Powered by the lightweight, compact 4.7ltr engine, V8 Vantage delivers a broad spread of effortless, exploitable performance. Mounted low and as far back in the chassis as possible Vantage’s centre of gravity is close to the road for supreme balance and handling.  Producing 426PS of peak power and 470Nm of torque, V8 Vantage sprints from 0-62mph in just 4.9secs.” (2)

I know, I know, this is meant to be a restaurant review, and I am starting to rant about cars. (Thank you Santa Claus).

Bristol, UK
Bristol, UK

I visited Bristol in November 2013, because my cousin was at the University of Bristol until December. On the occasion we went to have lunch at Wilks Restaurant, some 20 minutes walk from city centre.

I know, I know, this is not meant to be anything but a restaurant review, not my family and its members.

Wilks Restaurant, Bristol
Wilks Restaurant, Bristol

In any case, it is immaterial how we actually made it to the restaurant. But we made it, and we were one minute early! So we went in.

Wilks Restaurant, Amuse Bouche
Wilks Restaurant, Amuse Bouche

The amuse bouche was goat creamy cheese  and an onion concoction with olives and sardines. Botht asty, but the goat cheese was the winner.

Wilks Restaurant, Scallops
Wilks Restaurant, Scallops

Scallops from the Atlantic Oceaan. Fresh and perfectly cooked.

Wilks Restaurant, Truffle Risotto
Wilks Restaurant, Truffle Risotto

Truffle Risotto. Tasty and creamy!

Wilks Restaurant, Hake with Artichokes
Wilks Restaurant,Turbot Filet

Wild turbot fillet ~ parmesan gnocchi, artichokes & saute of fresh chanterelles, wild mushroom emulsion.

Wilks Restaurant, Aged Beef Tenderloin
Wilks Restaurant, Dry Aged Beef  Sirloin

Dry aged west country beef sirloin ~ caramelised onions, trompettes & spinach, black garlic & red wine jus

Wilks Restaurant, Selection of Cheeses
Wilks Restaurant, Selection of Cheeses

A selection of Cheeses to finish the meal.

Wilks is a relatively new restaurant, one year old. But they are on the right track to achieve a lot.

I liked the food, the service, the value for money ratio.

It did not come to me as a surprise that they have already received their first Michelin Star. More could be on their way.

Street Art, Bristol UK
Street Art, Bristol UK

On our way back to the city center, we had the opportunity to enjoy some of the famous Bristol Street Art.

Aston Martin, Bristol UK
Aston Martin, Bristol UK

It is time to get back to London. The beautiful V8 Vantage is patiently waiting to deliver effortless performance. Lets hit the road baby!

And thank you Wilks, thank you JM!

Merry Christmas!

Sources

1. Portcities Bristol

2. Aston Martin

Restaurant “Thalassa mou”, Alyki, Paros, Greece

During a short visit to Paros, I visited a restaurant for the first time.

It is a restaurant by the breaking wave on the edge of Aiyki, in the southwestern corner of the island.

By the breaking wave
By the breaking wave

The restaurant opened last year and operates during the – unfortunately short – tourist season of Paros, from late May to late September.

It is owned and operated by a couple.

The husband is a chef trained in France, and the wife runs the front of the house.

Appetizers presented as tapas
Appetizers presented as tapas

The menu is local food, prepared and presented in a beautiful and “modern” way.

It not only tastes good, it looks good as well!

Tuna carpaccio with avocado
Tuna carpaccio with avocado

They have a seven small dishes appetizer plate that is a must. Eggplant salad, marinated anchovies, chick peas, octopus in wine, fava bean salad, taramossalata (egg roe dip) and a delicious cold tomato soup.

The highlight of the appetizers is a small tuna carpaccio with avocado and mint.

Cheese fritters
Cheese fritters

The cheese fritters are made with local fresh cheese and are delicious!

Rabbit with lardon, and mushrooms, served with tagliatelle
Rabbit with lardons, and mushrooms, served with tagliatelle

I was curious how rabbit would taste in a hot day, and was justified in taking the dish. Absolutely delicious, juicy and gamey local rabbit, in a light sauce with lardons to die for, parmesan cheese and tagliatelle al dente.

One thing is for sure. I will visit them again!

mmm

Vassilenas Restaurant in Piraeus, Greece – Το εστιατοριο “Βασιλαινας” στον Πειραια

I recently visited the Vassilenas restaurant in Piraeus, Greece.

It has been one of my father’s favorites.

The restaurant began its life as a grocery store back in 1920. The owner was also serving some “meze” dishes to the grocery’s customers.

When my father started visiting, the grocery store had transformed itself into a taverna.

But not any taverna.

My father’s reminiscences were almost ecstatic.

He would recall that after entering the taverna, the owner, “Vassilenas”, would greet the customer and perform some sort of “assessment”, on the basis of which he would start serving various dishes to the table. The customer was advised to “ride the wave”. And it was a wave of gastronomic nirvana!

Today the taverna has been transformed into a restaurant, and is run by the son of the “Vassilenas” of my father’s days.

In my last visit I had the set menu.

Pumpkin soup
Pumpkin soup

It starts with a pumpkin soup, with cumin, nutmeg and curry.

I do not like soups. Especially in the Greek summer. But I tasted it. And I ate it every scoop of it. Delicious!

Anchovies
Anchovies a tomato marmalade slice of crispy bread and taramosalata (fish row dip) with Arabian bread

Next came marinated anchovies on a tomato marmalade slice of crispy bread and taramosalata (fish row dip) with Arabian bread. The anchovies were light in the salt and vinegar and tender, perfectly accompanied by the tomato marmalade. The fish roe dip creamy and light.

Sea bream
Sea bream

It was followed by sea bream on a bed of spinach and leeks, served with a cauliflower puree and a wild fennel sauce.

The fish was perfectly cooked, and the combination with the greens was delicious.

Duo of salmon
Duo of salmon

Next came a duo of salmon. Marinated in soy sauce and grilled in a crust of spices.

Duo of salmon - grilled salmon detail
Duo of salmon – grilled salmon detail

The grilled piece was cooked to perfection. You can see for yourself the photo above.

As I write this, I realize how exciting it has been to taste all these wonderful dishes, let alone relive the experience by writing about them!

This is a very good reason to write indeed!

Grilled calamari and fried cod
Grilled calamari and fried cod

In any case, grilled calamari and fried cod fillet came next.

The calamari was served on a bed of smoked eggplant.

I was overwhelmed by the cod, as it was perfectly fried, not oily at all, accompanied by heavenly aioli.

"Rice-shaped" pasta with mushrooms
“Rice-shaped” pasta with mushrooms

A “rice-shaped” pasta dish with mushrooms came next, It was cooked as a risotto, and wwas delicious, but I must confess I felt it was rather late in the menu for this type of dish. I am used to have pasta as a first dish, and could not really come around to tasting it as the penultimate dish.

Braised pig's cheeks
Slow cooked pig’s neck

The slow cooked pig’s neck concluded the savoury part of the menu. I loved it. It was served with quince marmalade, sweet potato puree, confit of onions and angel hair fried potatos.

Lemon tart
Lemon tart

All the dishes were exceptional, including the desert, a lemon tart I could kill for.

But I did not, thankfuly.

Instead I paid the bill and went home a happy man.